attaching lower door carpet panels

[82c10gcl]

The photos didn't attach to my last post I guess so here are they are again.

Glenn

[TKCR]

Wow! That is nice!
I have never heard about cutting the metal to add the headliner trim. You maybe able to use Velcro on the B-pillar, but everything else, you’ll need to use screws. They have too big of a space to be able to use Velcro. And all the trim is needed to hold up the headliner.
2 A pillar trim
2 B pillar trim
2 small metal trim over the doors
2 long metal trim for the front & rear windows.

[82c10gcl]

Thanks TKCR. I saw a while back you had a complete set of the trim pieces you had refinished and sold. Do you happen to have any more sets available?

Glenn

[TKCR]

Originally Posted by 82c10gcl

Thanks TKCR. I saw a while back you had a complete set of the trim pieces you had refinished and sold. Do you happen to have any more sets available?

Glenn

I do, but unfortunately I won’t ship them anymore. I had too many get damaged in shipping. And I was even putting the long metal trim in pvc, and they still got damaged. Almost like it was intentional, so I won’t ship them anymore.

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by 82c10gcl

I'm making some progress on the dash, kick panels, etc. I ended up getting the black dash and having it dyed to the color I wanted. It was to be slate blue. but I think it turned out a bit darker than it was supposed to. Looks good though so I was okay with it and installed it. I now have to get the door panels and kicks dyed to match the new dash color so that will be happening in the next few months. in the meantime, I got a new brushed aluminum gauge surround and new brushed stainless trim for the doors and dash and got them installed today. They replaced the black ones that were part of the Scottsdale interior. Making headway, and hope to have the interior finished off for this summer.

I was planning on adding the original style interior window trim at the A and B pillars and above the doors and windows and then adding a headliner, but I saw something about having to cut slots into the cab's inner layer of metal to fasten the trim. Is this just for the chrome headliner trim (which I'm not planning on using) or does it apply to the plastic window and headliner trim as well. Can this trim be installed with just the screws or with velcro instead? I don't want to take on a bigger project than I can handle and cutting the slots scares me. I'm also reluctant to make any new holes of significance in the sheetmetal. Thanks for any help anyone can give me on this.

Glenn

Don't forget about magnets. And a note about the interior color you are shooting for: design-wise, it is good to have some contrast in the shades of color when you go from gloss painted material to textured plastic material. In my experience it's not good to get close to matching a color and just miss it. It's much better to have a strong noticeable difference between the two as long as they go well with each other. Maybe you want your interior to feel less gloomy or dark, but the kick panel color against your paint color in post 10 looks right on in terms of how to put similar colors next to each other. You have a great looking truck by the way. With the exterior being so vibrant, I can understand how you might want to bring some of that energy to the inside. But in a way, that's kind of a cool contrast itself, that the outside is all hopped up, and the interior has a little more gray to it since that's the part you actually occupy. Anyway, I'll step out of Martha Stewart mode and let you have at it however you want.

[82c10gcl]

Thanks for the comments LT7A. Wan't thinking about magnets but that sounds like a good idea. I'll look into it if and when I do the headliner and trims. As for the colours, I understand your point about contrast. I don't want to deviate from the original colour much (I have collector's plates on it so I need to stay pretty close to original) but the 82 blue always looked kinda dead to me so I wanted to go with the 73 Slate Blue instead, which is a better shade of blue and which is closer in spirit to the exterior colour. The new dash is the colour I'm going with, the old door panels are the original colour. Not a lot of difference between them. The doors and kicks still need to be dyed to match the dash. Not much more to do on the truck (unless I go with the headliner) except enjoy taking it for weekend drives and coffee runs.

[S10Fan]

I used a kit from Rod Doors, the lower panel was attached with heavy duty plastic type velcro. This is a very old picture, I'm not sure Rod Doors are still in business.

[82c10gcl]

Thanks for the info S10Fan. It’s a good looking door panel. I’ll check out Red Door out of curiosity. I need to stay with original or replica panels due to my collector plates however so i’m just dying mine. Much appreciate the input anyway.

Glenn

[Rich84]

"Government issued"..No thanks. That explains it.

[82c10gcl]

I've been making some progress on the interior finally. Got my new dash pad installed and the old door panels dyed to match (with new aluminum trim). Got new full kick panels dyed and the carpet on. Got the passenger's side installed. Seems to fit properly but the hole for the screw at the leading edge of the old half panel doesn't align with the hole in the new full panel. Is this typical or does the panel need to be repositioned somehow? Do I need drill new holes for this screw as well as for the one near the bottom of the panel? I bought some magnets to go that route but that means removing the panel again to install them so I may just get my drill out and go for it if that is what's required.

My next problem is trying to get the driver's side panel out without removing the e-brake pedal. I've moved the pedal up and down and it still seems to block the panel. Any suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated.

[TKCR]

Originally Posted by 82c10gcl

I've been making some progress on the interior finally. Got my new dash pad installed and the old door panels dyed to match (with new aluminum trim). Got new full kick panels dyed and the carpet on. Got the passenger's side installed. Seems to fit properly but the hole for the screw at the leading edge of the old half panel doesn't align with the hole in the new full panel. Is this typical or does the panel need to be repositioned somehow? Do I need drill new holes for this screw as well as for the one near the bottom of the panel? I bought some magnets to go that route but that means removing the panel again to install them so I may just get my drill out and go for it if that is what's required.

My next problem is trying to get the driver's side panel out without removing the e-brake pedal. I've moved the pedal up and down and it still seems to block the panel. Any suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated.

Since the full kickpanels are slightly different than the partial, just drill a new hole.
The drivers side, it takes a little maneuvering of the kick panel and the ebrake. But it doesn’t have to come off. The parking brake handle does though, since it attaches thru the panel, into the metal panel.

[82c10gcl]

Looks like it didn't post the pictures. Here they are.

[82c10gcl]

Thanks TKCR. Not sure if it’s cheaper to pay the medical bills for the heart attack i’m about to have from trying to get this gd panel off or to buy you a plane ticket to have you come up here and do it for me. I just spent another 2 hrs wrestling with it and still can’t get the vent to clear the opening in the metal. I’m ready to give up and chop it up to get it out and get the new one assembled with the old vent flap. But then I still have to fight with getting the new full panel back in. Does it go back in easier than it comes out? I just had them dyed and I don’t want to be scuffing and scratching the finish wrestling with it. Make my day and tell me it goes in easily.

When you take them out, is there a sequence you use? Any additional tips you can give will be appreciated.

Thanks
Glenn
Posted via Mobile Device

[TKCR]

Originally Posted by 82c10gcl

Thanks TKCR. Not sure if it’s cheaper to pay the medical bills for the heart attack i’m about to have from trying to get this gd panel off or to buy you a plane ticket to have you come up here and do it for me. I just spent another 2 hrs wrestling with it and still can’t get the vent to clear the opening in the metal. I’m ready to give up and chop it up to get it out and get the new one assembled with the old vent flap. But then I still have to fight with getting the new full panel back in. Does it go back in easier than it comes out? I just had them dyed and I don’t want to be scuffing and scratching the finish wrestling with it. Make my day and tell me it goes in easily.

When you take them out, is there a sequence you use? Any additional tips you can give will be appreciated.

Thanks
Glenn
Posted via Mobile Device

Sorry your having such a time with it. It’s been awhile since I had mine out, and then back in. And I have actually had it in & out several times for various reasons. Can’t say I remember the sequence. I Just know the only thing I did have to loosen from the side panel was the release handle. I think I just pressed the parking brake all the way forward, and that put it out of the way. Then once the new part is in, you can release the brake.

[82c10gcl]

[QUOTE=TKCR;9117559]Sorry your having such a time with it. It’s been awhile since I had mine out, and then back in. And I have actually had it in & out several times for various reasons. Can’t say I remember the sequence. I Just know the only thing I did have to loosen from the side panel was the release handle. I think I just pressed the parking brake all the way forward, and that put it out of the way. Then once the new part is in, you can release the brake.[/QUOTE


OK. Thanks again. Tomorrow’s another day so i’ll try again. Maybe go to church first to get some extra help. I’ll let you know how I make out.
Posted via Mobile Device

[TKCR]

[quote=82c10gcl;9117562]

Originally Posted by TKCR

Sorry your having such a time with it. It’s been awhile since I had mine out, and then back in. And I have actually had it in & out several times for various reasons. Can’t say I remember the sequence. I Just know the only thing I did have to loosen from the side panel was the release handle. I think I just pressed the parking brake all the way forward, and that put it out of the way. Then once the new part is in, you can release the brake.[/QUOTE


OK. Thanks again. Tomorrow’s another day so i’ll try again. Maybe go to church first to get some extra help. I’ll let you know how I make out.
Posted via Mobile Device

See if you can find a video online tonight. I know that was how I fiqured a lot of this stuff out, was watching videos. I didn’t know anything about these trucks when I first bought it and started doing work on it myself. The how to videos saved me several times.

[82c10gcl]

I think you're right, Axel. They are counting on the collector car owner being much more careful than the average driver about where and how they drive it, thus justifying the much lower rates. You can't take your car to work and you need to show you have another vehicle that you use as a daily driver and the hours of operation are restricted but otherwise you can use it when you want for pleasure driving so it is a really good deal. Worth the headache of getting the collector plates.

[82c10gcl]

waiting for the vent seals to arrive before I can install the drivers side quarter panel and it looks like I'm going to have to have the parking brake pedal loosened up to do so. I'll post how it turns out.
In the meantime, I got a set of the interior trim for around the windows to hold a new headliner on so I'm looking at how to attach them.I don't really want to drill hole so if magnets (as mentioned above) have been used for this application successfully by anyone and they can post pictures, it would be greatly appreciated. If it have to drill holes instead, are there any tips I should take into account. I've seen warnings about being careful the drill doesn't go through the outer skin of the roof. Anything else?