1949 Chevy 3600 Tow Truck

[Black93GT]

Well... it’s been a minute since I updated this thread. I’ve been driving this thing for the past 3 years making a few tweaks but I guess like everyone else returning to the board after a bit of a hiatus... life got in the way.

I think the majority of my swap is the same as everyone else so I’ll save you the details. What’s most likely of interest are the number of items I did differently.


To start was using a T-5 from an ‘85 Camaro. It was cheap and far from optimal due to the poor positioning of the shift tower. I was set on using the original shifter so creativity and fabrication were in order.

Cut down and modified the Camaro shifter.


Fabricated linkage to sneak under the floor and fit through the original transmission access panel.

[6DoF]

lets see the whole truck as it sits, she still have the patina letter?!?!

[Black93GT]

For the foot controls, I used a set from a gen4 Camaro and the donor S10. I needed to add some length so I could raise the mounting of the S10 booster and keep the pads of the pedals at a reasonable height. Additionally I wanted them to go around the steering column and sit where the original pedals were.

I couldn’t use the S10 clutch master cylinder so I picked up one from Wilwood. It was reasonably inexpensive but I needed to come up with mounting and linkage to the pedal.

Using the distance of the piston throw and pedal throw based on the brake pedal, I calculated the point on the lever I needed to attach the linkage. Then going 90 degrees to that and the pedal pivot at mid travel gave me the angle to mount the master.


Now for mounting it.
I split the difference between that line and where it would be with the pedal to the floor for my mounting elevation. I found this to be too close to the brake booster so I created some support on the pedal to allow the linkage to connect further outboard. I had to accept this will cause a rotational Force on the pedal and wear the pivot bushings more quickly.




Most importantly the go fast pedal!! Well... second most important.
I was dead set on using the original gas pedal. Obviously I would not have the original linkage rod to push down so I put on the thinking cap. I devised a plan to have a rod stick through the firewall and pull a cable.


Video to help visualize.
https://i.imgur.com/6HKuPk3.mp4

[Black93GT]

The engine accessories were my next issue.
My 327 was an early small journal with a short water pump and accessories from that year. Not wanting to spend much the intent was to reuse everything but also move the alternator to the passenger side. Of course the difficulty with the short water pump configuration is the alternator will not fit in front of the engine and there aren’t as many bracket options.

As you could expect, I took the path of most resistance.

I found a cheap adjustable bracket and had to make a quick and dirty arm to adjust the belt tension from flat bar stock. The next hurdle was the need for inner fender clearance. Spent some time with a body hammer to resolve this one.




With that out of the way it was time to mount the radiator. I purchased the one recommended in Sarge’s thread but my alternator mounting comes to bite me again as the belt is placed perfectly to rub the hose because of the direction of the radiator outlet.

What else would anyone do but cut up a brand new radiator and hope for the best.


Not too bad in the end.

[6DoF]

i'm a huge fan of that gas pedal, now you're givin me ideas!

a buddy used a floor mounted foot starter switch from a tractor, similar to the trucks stock high beam switch. when he swapped the I6 for a crate 350 i just couldn't bare getting rid of the starter pedal.

[Black93GT]

Originally Posted by 6DoF

a buddy used a floor mounted foot starter switch from a tractor, similar to the trucks stock high beam switch. when he swapped the I6 for a crate 350 i just couldn't bare getting rid of the starter pedal.

I thought about a foot starter but the ignition switch was replaced quite a while back and it has a start position. That’s one of the few times I took the path of least resistance.

[Black93GT]

Hung the doors and hood as expected.


As I expected from a desert truck there would be some sand trapped here and there, but what I encountered was significantly more than I anticipated. It’s been a constant issue... any bonk, bang or clunk causes sand to fall everywhere. It’s in the headliner, dash.... you name it. This is a fine powdery sand that never fails to land in my eyes ears or mouth. I set after it with a scraper and assortment of bristle brushes.

After a few minutes of knocking sand out of the door, I decided to take a video. It’s comical how much comes out of to door.

[Black93GT]

It seems most replace the S10 tank but I reused it.
The internals were in bad shape.. fuel pump was rusted, didn’t run plus the lines crumbled. I pulled it all out and replaced it with a piece of hose to work as a pickup in the sump. I used an external pump because of clearance issues but was able to reuse the lines to/from the tank and the filter. The fuel was as nasty as the fuel pump but I picked up a few extra filters and accepted my fate of multiple replacements.

[Black93GT]

Another step I did differently was the bed wood. A coworker gave me a log from her property and let me use her Alaskan mill to cut boards.





After warping and splitting, I wasn’t able to use it entirely for the bed and supplemented with redwood fence boards. Certainly not to the original board widths.

[Black93GT]

For the front license plate mount, I welded up a few pushrods and rocker arms to a connecting rod. With the plate on it’s subtle enough to mostly go unnoticed.

[Rickysnickers]

Originally Posted by Black93GT

For the front license plate mount, I welded up a few pushrods and rocker arms to a connecting rod. With the plate on it’s subtle enough to mostly go unnoticed.

Ha, I like it