Door Hinge Stop / Check Pads

[cericd]

Here's a thread about replacing the friction pads and it looks like they didn't remove the doors or cut the roll pin.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by Rich72C10

If I have to resort to cutting/driving out from both sides - not sure how I could do that without taking the hinge off the truck. But I can see why that might be required

Is it correct that a 3/16" drift it is smaller than the 3/16" pin (allowing it to go into the hole)? I could look for a carriage bolt and use my digital calipers, perhaps 4.5mm is small enough? Anyone able to measure one of these 3/16" drifts with digital calipers for millimeter size?

3/16 = 3 / 16 inches = 4.7625 millimeters

[Rich72C10]

Originally Posted by cericd

Here's a thread about replacing the friction pads and it looks like they didn't remove the doors or cut the roll pin.

He made it look simple, that's what I want to do. I wonder how he got that punch he has in this photo to work. Doesn't seem long enough to push from the top!

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

3/16 = 3 / 16 inches = 4.7625 millimeters

I get that but I thought the hole ended up being smaller than 3/16? I guess I misunderstood.

[Rich72C10]

Also why is 67-72 Door: Friction Pads closed? That's strange, I don't see anything that went sideways.

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by Rich72C10

Also why is 67-72 Door: Friction Pads closed? That's strange, I don't see anything that went sideways.

That thread is in the FAQ section, all threads there are closed after they are cleaned up and consolidated.

[Rich72C10]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

That thread is in the FAQ section, all threads there are closed after they are cleaned up and consolidated.

Oh, gee - that's what I get for not looking in the Faq section - Doh!

[Rich72C10]

If you get the right tool, for the right job - sh*t will work!


TEKTON 3/16 Inch Roll Pin Punch #66066 off Amazon for $7.58 dollars. I also ordered a TEKTON 5/32 Inch Roll Pin Punch #66065 but its running late, it would have been useful pushing the later one back out.

I'd image all these days soaking with Free-All has helped but I hammered it from the top and down out of the bottom. The 1st few hits I didn't think it was going to move but then it did. After that only a 5 or so hits. I was using a regular claw hammer, so it isn't very heavy. Using a nice ball ping hammer likely would have been better.

Now to get the pads in but I'll do that tomorrow morning when it is cooler :-)

[cericd]

Congrats on successfully removing the pins and thanks for the heads up on the punches used.

[Rich72C10]

Thanks guys for all the help and tips. No more floppy door - YAY Me!

I clearly was overthinking this project and worrying about how the split pin's hole reduced. If I had the right tool (3/16 Inch Roll Pin Punch) to begin with I doubt I would have been fussing with all my posts.

Aside from not starting with the right punch, the hardest part is when the top pad fell into the door cavity. It fell in-between the outer skin and the tub (kind of like a seam) just far enough I could not reach / feel it with my hand. I ended up putting my snake camera into the door and using my magnetic stick to find it and to get it out. So Pro-Tip: don't let those pads drop into the door! The top pad is prone to fall out until you get the wedge in, because it needs to raised up by the wedge to be kept in place.

Again, thanks for the help!

[1970cstblazer]

Congrats on a PITA job!