46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild" - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

paintman · 01-05-2013, 01:10 PM

The other problem that I have to deal with is the back of the cab. Who ever did the original body work either didn't know what he was doing, was to lazy or didn't have the money to do it right. So instead of fixing the back of the cab he just went and pop riveted a piece of stainless sheet metal over the blemishes.

Now what I was hoping to find was a treasure map or something buried under the panel but no such luck. What i did find was a whole lot of bondo and some waviness.

**CHIZZLER** · 01-02-2013, 10:44 PM

nice choice.gonna be sweet

old yelr · 01-05-2013, 01:26 PM

I'm no expert on body work but I think you could try shrinking the metal where it's "oil canning" and maybe some hammer and dolly work to try to get in better shape.
I'm sure there are other experienced members who can give you better guidance.

paintman · 01-05-2013, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old yelr

I'm no expert on body work but I think you could try shrinking the metal where it's "oil canning" and maybe some hammer and dolly work to try to get in better shape.
I'm sure there are other experienced members who can give you better guidance.

Can you further explain the "shrinking" yelr?

paintman · 01-05-2013, 03:02 PM

Anybody know the difference (if there is any other then the price), between this rear leaf kit
http://www.premierstreetrod.com/deta..._LEAF_KIT.html
and this kit
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/TCI-19...Kit,47159.html

old yelr · 01-05-2013, 05:37 PM

From what I've read it's a process of heating up the area you want to shrink with a torch and then cooling down rapidly with a wet cloth. I'm sure there is more to it than that but it's a starting point.

paintman · 01-07-2013, 09:23 PM

Well I had the chance to work on the truck Sunday for awhile. figured I try my hand at filling the little pop rivet holes with my mig. Seeing as how I've never done a lick of body work in my life I think it went fairly well.

Although I don't know if I did it right, or wrong. I think it will look fine once I grind them down smooth but I want to wait until I have a chance to strip off the 1/4" of bondo the last rank amateur put on the cab.

paintman · 01-07-2013, 09:26 PM

Forgot to mention that I am also waiting on the big brown truck this week to deliver a rear leaf spring kit I ordered from TCI. It just didn't make sense to rebuild the old leafs at $175 each, and then still need all new bushings for the hangers at another $80 per side.

paintman · 01-11-2013, 07:13 PM

I had a chance to get some stuff done this week at night. I made a new toe board since the original one looked like a piece of swiss cheese. A few weeks ago I bought a Flamming River column and got that in. I also got a new tin floor board but I'm not sure if i'm going to use it or make one another one out of oak veneer plywood.

I'm still trying to figure out what I want to do about my exhaust. If I go with the Clifford or Langdon exhaust I am cramped for space between my brake booster and tranny.
My original plan was to make custom headers and route both pipes under the pan to the passenger side of the truck where i have all the room in the world.
Or I can try and use an under dash brake booster and solve all my problems but I'm not sure it will fit as I think the bump out in the fire wall will be in the way.

**CHIZZLER** · 01-12-2013, 12:53 PM

lookin good.what im gonna do is run the exhaust under the frame rails till just past the back of the cab then into mufflers then 90 down.i also though about exiting through the bed to running board filler but have changed my mind.my booster is about the same and we bent the brake pedal arm over about 3" to make room for the gas pedal.

paintman · 01-13-2013, 04:03 PM

So I had a chance to hit her pretty hard this weekend! On Thursday the big brown truck showed up with the new TCI rear leaf kit so I had plenty to keep me busy this weekend. First up was spending all day Saturday taking all the old leaf hangers off. Wasn't as simple as it sounds because the previous owner painted over all the bolts and nuts thus not allowing me to get wrenches on them, but after a lot of hammering, grinding, and busted knuckles I had the frame all cleaned up.
I was somewhat hesitant about ordering the leaf kit because some sites had it listed as fitting 37-54 trucks and others had it only fitting 47-54..go figure. But I remember Justin telling me that all the frames are the same from the firewall back so I figured I would trust his knowledge and pop on the $550. It only made sense to buy the new kit as I was getting prices of $175 to get each spring rebuilt, and that was without new hangers, pads hardware, shocks etc. etc.
Once I started bolting the new hangers on the frame I was pleasantly suprised that everything bolted right into the existing holes just like TCI advertised!! Other then having to file a few holes to get the bolts to pass through it was a pretty straight forward job.

On Sunday I spent the better half of the day cutting and grinding the old pads and shock hangers off the rear. I got to tell ya if ya ever have absolutely nothing better to do on a Sunday I highly recommend grinding mounts of a 60 year old year end.
And yes I did cover the diff while grinding

After wrestling the rear back in place by myself this is what I ende up with at the end of 2 looong days.

The TCI kit was advertised as a 3 inch lowering kit so I wasn't sure if I was going to need additional blocks under the rear but it looks pretty close to how it was sitting with the old springs.

I guess if I want, I could make a call out to Justin and get some 2" drop spindles and then throw some 2" lowering blocks under the rear

The last thing I got done was make a new rear cross member. I still need to weld it in place for good, then I can remove the stock cross member to make room for the new fuel tank.

Next on the to do list is weld up the cross member, fill in all the holes in the frame and get the new shock cross member bolted in place. Then onto the new tank, probably a late 60's mustang tank.

old yelr · 01-13-2013, 04:42 PM

Great progress, looks great!
So is that the kit listed for 47-54? Looks like it also fits 39-46 then, good to know. Love the pictures

paintman · 01-13-2013, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old yelr

Great progress, looks great!
So is that the kit listed for 47-54? Looks like it also fits 39-46 then, good to know. Love the pictures

heres the kit I ordered from speedway.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/TCI-19...Kit,47159.html

paintman · 01-13-2013, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paintman

heres the kit I ordered from speedway.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/TCI-19...Kit,47159.html

The springs I took off my truck where 52" but the new ones from TCI are 48" They make up the difference in lengths by offsetting the leaf mounting hole on the hangers. Kind of hard to explain but I don't have a close up pic of the hangers. It looks like they offset the rear hangers and inch to the front. And the front hangers look to be about 3" offset to the rear. If that makes any sense. All I know is it dropped my rear right back in center where it was with the old leafs, so I'm not complaining!

old yelr · 01-13-2013, 05:19 PM

Looks like a nice kit. You'll have to let me know what the ride is like when you get it moving down the road again.

Tx Firefighter · 01-13-2013, 05:59 PM

I'm sure enjoying this thread.

I'm pretty sure you're gonna find your rearend to be out of a 73-80ish model half ton pickup. It looks to be a 12 bolt, and those 5 on 5 rally wheels are truck pattern.

**CHIZZLER** · 01-13-2013, 11:59 PM

looks real good.about your gas tank.get a universal mustang style tank it comes with a 5 hole bolt in type sending unit.dont use a real mustang tank that has a lock ring.i got my tank of flea bay with sending unit for $250 shipped.the mustang has a weird 10-75 ohm sending unit.yours is 0-30.nice progress.if you can you might be able to move that crossmember forward or flip it.

**CHIZZLER** · 01-14-2013, 12:02 AM

here you go.http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Universa...5599f4&vxp=mtr

paintman · 01-14-2013, 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CHIZZLER

here you go.http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Universa...5599f4&vxp=mtr

I like that tank except for the fact that the sending unit is in the top and the filler neck is not centered. With my luck the first thing that will need be replace is the sending unit. As far as the filler neck....I am one anal SOB and I'm not so sure I can live with it being out of center in the bed of my truck. I was thinking maybe a Nova tank like this. It still has the sending unit on the top, but at least the filler neck is centered.
http://www.gastanks.com/1971-72-Nova...ctinfo/GM-46C/

**CHIZZLER** · 01-14-2013, 09:53 PM

we centered the filler neck in the bed.not the tank.i also looked at nova,firebird and chevelle tanks.those tanks require a strap to hold them in place.the universal mustang can be bolted using the flange on the tank.

paintman · 01-14-2013, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CHIZZLER

we centered the filler neck in the bed.not the tank.i also looked at nova,firebird and chevelle tanks.those tanks require a strap to hold them in place.the universal mustang can be bolted using the flange on the tank.

How much did you have to move the tank over to center the neck? It looks like at least 2-3 inches? With your truck the tank looks like it would not be seen from the rear because it sits up in the bed. With mine I'm not so sure it would look to good, unless I use a roll pan on the back. I was also looking at this Cougar tank, I like the way the sending unit is out the bottom. http://www.gastanks.com/1970-Cougar-...uctinfo/F-28D/

**CHIZZLER** · 01-14-2013, 10:21 PM

its a couple inches to one side.and yes it will not be visible.the cougar tank looks good and is similar in size to what i used.you will just need to change to a gm sending unit.

**CHIZZLER** · 01-14-2013, 10:24 PM

it also looks looks the filler is not centered on the cougar tank.

**ScottH** · 01-15-2013, 11:45 AM

Paintman, I have a used nova tank I was going to install in my 46 but changed plans.
I only have $50 into it, if interested PM me.

Build is looking good.

Scott

paintman · 02-03-2013, 02:22 PM

Ok guys I need some advice... I'm ready to order some parts to connect my steering column to the rack. My question is where should I reduce down to 3/4 to hook into the splines on the rack.

Should I get a 1" DD x 3/4" DD reducer and hook that directly to the column, and then run 3/4" shaft down to the center joint with a heim ( for support), and then to the rack?

Or should I go from the column with a 1" DD x 1"DD down to the center joint with a 1" shaft, and reduce there after the heim joint?

Or should I go all the way with 1" shaft, still using a center joint with heim, and reduce down at the rack?

I guess I trying to figure out if one is stronger than the other. I would think you would want to go as far as you can with a piece of 1" shaft since that"s the size coming out of the column. Or am I just over thinking this project?

01-05-2013, 01:10 PM	#1
paintman Registered User Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: washington NJ Posts: 766	Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild" The other problem that I have to deal with is the back of the cab. Who ever did the original body work either didn't know what he was doing, was to lazy or didn't have the money to do it right. So instead of fixing the back of the cab he just went and pop riveted a piece of stainless sheet metal over the blemishes. Now what I was hoping to find was a treasure map or something buried under the panel but no such luck. What i did find was a whole lot of bondo and some waviness.

01-02-2013, 10:44 PM	#2
CHIZZLER SAVING ONE TRUCK AT A TIME Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: sherwood oregon Posts: 1,141	Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild" nice choice.gonna be sweet __________________ 53-suburban (99% done) 40-pick up (99.9% done) 12-cc lb dually D-max (dd) 61-crew cab D-max "PAY LESS FOR WHAT YOU NEED PAY MORE FOR WHAT YOU WANT" 53 BURBAN BARN FIND:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=404091 1940 PROJECT MOON SHINE:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551088 1961 CREW MAX: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=6957999 Last edited by CHIZZLER; 01-02-2013 at 10:45 PM. Reason: spelling

01-05-2013, 01:26 PM	#3
old yelr Registered User Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba Posts: 164	Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild" I'm no expert on body work but I think you could try shrinking the metal where it's "oil canning" and maybe some hammer and dolly work to try to get in better shape. I'm sure there are other experienced members who can give you better guidance.

01-05-2013, 03:02 PM	#5
paintman Registered User Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: washington NJ Posts: 766	Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild" Anybody know the difference (if there is any other then the price), between this rear leaf kit http://www.premierstreetrod.com/deta..._LEAF_KIT.html and this kit http://www.speedwaymotors.com/TCI-19...Kit,47159.html

01-05-2013, 05:37 PM	#6
old yelr Registered User Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba Posts: 164	Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild" From what I've read it's a process of heating up the area you want to shrink with a torch and then cooling down rapidly with a wet cloth. I'm sure there is more to it than that but it's a starting point.

01-07-2013, 09:23 PM	#7
paintman Registered User Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: washington NJ Posts: 766	Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild" Well I had the chance to work on the truck Sunday for awhile. figured I try my hand at filling the little pop rivet holes with my mig. Seeing as how I've never done a lick of body work in my life I think it went fairly well. Although I don't know if I did it right, or wrong. I think it will look fine once I grind them down smooth but I want to wait until I have a chance to strip off the 1/4" of bondo the last rank amateur put on the cab.

01-07-2013, 09:26 PM	#8
paintman Registered User Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: washington NJ Posts: 766	Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild" Forgot to mention that I am also waiting on the big brown truck this week to deliver a rear leaf spring kit I ordered from TCI. It just didn't make sense to rebuild the old leafs at $175 each, and then still need all new bushings for the hangers at another $80 per side.

01-11-2013, 07:13 PM	#9
paintman Registered User Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: washington NJ Posts: 766	Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild" I had a chance to get some stuff done this week at night. I made a new toe board since the original one looked like a piece of swiss cheese. A few weeks ago I bought a Flamming River column and got that in. I also got a new tin floor board but I'm not sure if i'm going to use it or make one another one out of oak veneer plywood. I'm still trying to figure out what I want to do about my exhaust. If I go with the Clifford or Langdon exhaust I am cramped for space between my brake booster and tranny. My original plan was to make custom headers and route both pipes under the pan to the passenger side of the truck where i have all the room in the world. Or I can try and use an under dash brake booster and solve all my problems but I'm not sure it will fit as I think the bump out in the fire wall will be in the way.

01-12-2013, 12:53 PM	#10
CHIZZLER SAVING ONE TRUCK AT A TIME Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: sherwood oregon Posts: 1,141	Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild" lookin good.what im gonna do is run the exhaust under the frame rails till just past the back of the cab then into mufflers then 90 down.i also though about exiting through the bed to running board filler but have changed my mind.my booster is about the same and we bent the brake pedal arm over about 3" to make room for the gas pedal. __________________ 53-suburban (99% done) 40-pick up (99.9% done) 12-cc lb dually D-max (dd) 61-crew cab D-max "PAY LESS FOR WHAT YOU NEED PAY MORE FOR WHAT YOU WANT" 53 BURBAN BARN FIND:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=404091 1940 PROJECT MOON SHINE:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551088 1961 CREW MAX: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=6957999

01-13-2013, 04:03 PM	#11
paintman Registered User Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: washington NJ Posts: 766	Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild" So I had a chance to hit her pretty hard this weekend! On Thursday the big brown truck showed up with the new TCI rear leaf kit so I had plenty to keep me busy this weekend. First up was spending all day Saturday taking all the old leaf hangers off. Wasn't as simple as it sounds because the previous owner painted over all the bolts and nuts thus not allowing me to get wrenches on them, but after a lot of hammering, grinding, and busted knuckles I had the frame all cleaned up. I was somewhat hesitant about ordering the leaf kit because some sites had it listed as fitting 37-54 trucks and others had it only fitting 47-54..go figure. But I remember Justin telling me that all the frames are the same from the firewall back so I figured I would trust his knowledge and pop on the $550. It only made sense to buy the new kit as I was getting prices of $175 to get each spring rebuilt, and that was without new hangers, pads hardware, shocks etc. etc. Once I started bolting the new hangers on the frame I was pleasantly suprised that everything bolted right into the existing holes just like TCI advertised!! Other then having to file a few holes to get the bolts to pass through it was a pretty straight forward job. On Sunday I spent the better half of the day cutting and grinding the old pads and shock hangers off the rear. I got to tell ya if ya ever have absolutely nothing better to do on a Sunday I highly recommend grinding mounts of a 60 year old year end. And yes I did cover the diff while grinding After wrestling the rear back in place by myself this is what I ende up with at the end of 2 looong days. The TCI kit was advertised as a 3 inch lowering kit so I wasn't sure if I was going to need additional blocks under the rear but it looks pretty close to how it was sitting with the old springs. I guess if I want, I could make a call out to Justin and get some 2" drop spindles and then throw some 2" lowering blocks under the rear The last thing I got done was make a new rear cross member. I still need to weld it in place for good, then I can remove the stock cross member to make room for the new fuel tank. Next on the to do list is weld up the cross member, fill in all the holes in the frame and get the new shock cross member bolted in place. Then onto the new tank, probably a late 60's mustang tank.

01-13-2013, 04:42 PM	#12
old yelr Registered User Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba Posts: 164	Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild" Great progress, looks great! So is that the kit listed for 47-54? Looks like it also fits 39-46 then, good to know. Love the pictures

01-13-2013, 05:19 PM	#15
old yelr Registered User Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba Posts: 164	Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild" Looks like a nice kit. You'll have to let me know what the ride is like when you get it moving down the road again.

01-13-2013, 05:59 PM	#16
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild" I'm sure enjoying this thread. I'm pretty sure you're gonna find your rearend to be out of a 73-80ish model half ton pickup. It looks to be a 12 bolt, and those 5 on 5 rally wheels are truck pattern.

01-13-2013, 11:59 PM	#17
CHIZZLER SAVING ONE TRUCK AT A TIME Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: sherwood oregon Posts: 1,141	Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild" looks real good.about your gas tank.get a universal mustang style tank it comes with a 5 hole bolt in type sending unit.dont use a real mustang tank that has a lock ring.i got my tank of flea bay with sending unit for $250 shipped.the mustang has a weird 10-75 ohm sending unit.yours is 0-30.nice progress.if you can you might be able to move that crossmember forward or flip it. __________________ 53-suburban (99% done) 40-pick up (99.9% done) 12-cc lb dually D-max (dd) 61-crew cab D-max "PAY LESS FOR WHAT YOU NEED PAY MORE FOR WHAT YOU WANT" 53 BURBAN BARN FIND:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=404091 1940 PROJECT MOON SHINE:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551088 1961 CREW MAX: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=6957999

01-14-2013, 12:02 AM	#18
CHIZZLER SAVING ONE TRUCK AT A TIME Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: sherwood oregon Posts: 1,141	Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild" here you go.http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Universa...5599f4&vxp=mtr __________________ 53-suburban (99% done) 40-pick up (99.9% done) 12-cc lb dually D-max (dd) 61-crew cab D-max "PAY LESS FOR WHAT YOU NEED PAY MORE FOR WHAT YOU WANT" 53 BURBAN BARN FIND:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=404091 1940 PROJECT MOON SHINE:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551088 1961 CREW MAX: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=6957999



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01-14-2013, 09:53 PM	#20
CHIZZLER SAVING ONE TRUCK AT A TIME Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: sherwood oregon Posts: 1,141	Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild" we centered the filler neck in the bed.not the tank.i also looked at nova,firebird and chevelle tanks.those tanks require a strap to hold them in place.the universal mustang can be bolted using the flange on the tank. __________________ 53-suburban (99% done) 40-pick up (99.9% done) 12-cc lb dually D-max (dd) 61-crew cab D-max "PAY LESS FOR WHAT YOU NEED PAY MORE FOR WHAT YOU WANT" 53 BURBAN BARN FIND:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=404091 1940 PROJECT MOON SHINE:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551088 1961 CREW MAX: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=6957999

01-14-2013, 10:21 PM	#22
CHIZZLER SAVING ONE TRUCK AT A TIME Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: sherwood oregon Posts: 1,141	Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild" its a couple inches to one side.and yes it will not be visible.the cougar tank looks good and is similar in size to what i used.you will just need to change to a gm sending unit. __________________ 53-suburban (99% done) 40-pick up (99.9% done) 12-cc lb dually D-max (dd) 61-crew cab D-max "PAY LESS FOR WHAT YOU NEED PAY MORE FOR WHAT YOU WANT" 53 BURBAN BARN FIND:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=404091 1940 PROJECT MOON SHINE:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551088 1961 CREW MAX: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=6957999

01-14-2013, 10:24 PM	#23
CHIZZLER SAVING ONE TRUCK AT A TIME Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: sherwood oregon Posts: 1,141	Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild" it also looks looks the filler is not centered on the cougar tank. __________________ 53-suburban (99% done) 40-pick up (99.9% done) 12-cc lb dually D-max (dd) 61-crew cab D-max "PAY LESS FOR WHAT YOU NEED PAY MORE FOR WHAT YOU WANT" 53 BURBAN BARN FIND:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=404091 1940 PROJECT MOON SHINE:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551088 1961 CREW MAX: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=6957999

01-15-2013, 11:45 AM	#24
ScottH Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Hampstead, NC Posts: 8,190	Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild" Paintman, I have a used nova tank I was going to install in my 46 but changed plans. I only have $50 into it, if interested PM me. Build is looking good. Scott __________________ 1963 C10 swb fleetside 1966 GMC G1000 Handi-bus (future project) 1955 Chevy 2 dr. wagon Last edited by ScottH; 01-22-2013 at 10:50 AM.

02-03-2013, 02:22 PM	#25
paintman Registered User Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: washington NJ Posts: 766	Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild" Ok guys I need some advice... I'm ready to order some parts to connect my steering column to the rack. My question is where should I reduce down to 3/4 to hook into the splines on the rack. Should I get a 1" DD x 3/4" DD reducer and hook that directly to the column, and then run 3/4" shaft down to the center joint with a heim ( for support), and then to the rack? Or should I go from the column with a 1" DD x 1"DD down to the center joint with a 1" shaft, and reduce there after the heim joint? Or should I go all the way with 1" shaft, still using a center joint with heim, and reduce down at the rack? I guess I trying to figure out if one is stronger than the other. I would think you would want to go as far as you can with a piece of 1" shaft since that"s the size coming out of the column. Or am I just over thinking this project?

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