Trying to make Junky perhaps just a little bit Funky...

[67c10rustbuket]

Check that one out, pretty crafty.

you can use the search at the top of the page to search most anything, and most of the time get ideas and answers to common problems. doesn't always have what you need but alot of the common Q's. just make sure to check the "67-72 chevy trucks" bubble instead of the "web" bubble. later and good luck!

[DD1]

Originally Posted by 67c10rustbuket

The two most common methods ive seen

1- invite 3 friends over and supply the beer

2- Use an engine hoist from the side.
I did it with yellow tow straps wrapped around the roof (only works if the truck is low enough).

Ive seen others roll down the windows and stick the hoist inside the cab to lift, I guess they chained or strapped to something inside the cab, possibly to the seat belt anchor holes in the floor and cab support holes maybe.

Ive also seen one guy put the hoist in the window and put 2x4s on top of the hoist arm as spreader bars against the roof.

you may be able to lift from the front with an engine hoist if it extends far enough and has a decent weight capacity at full extension. (in your narrow garage)

Thanks for the tips and the link. I had seen someone mention the hoist through the window trick before, but could not find it. I wonder if that would work going through the windshield and the back window (after removing the glass of course )? I may have to give it a try on the old cab first.

[DD1]

Okay, so after a couple of weeks of trying to decide what to do with my build, and going back and forth between buying a cab from someone, buying another truck to take a cab, and spare parts from, as well as just fixing what I have, I have finally been convinced (for now at least...) by some good friends to just suck it up and try and fix what I have. Of course we will see how long this lasts.

I was also somewhat inspired by another board member who actually fixed all the stuff on his truck that I need to fix on mine. Of course, he has tons more experience than I do with this stuff. So, I purchased my welder and related material from HF, and am waiting for my welders stand to come in (it was $39.99 at HF, could not resist). Tomorrow, I also start taking welding classes at the Bergen County Adult Ed school; so hopefully that will get me even more motivated to do stuff.

So, on the list is:

• Sealing up the vent panels. Replacing the front of the inner headliner.
• Replacing the outer floor sections on each side.
• Repairing the inner cowl, & lower cowl panel.
• Replacing the lower door pillar.

We will see how it goes. Today, I just spent a couple of hours messing around with paint. Sprayed Rustoleum High Heat on my headers, and primed my power steering pump with Rustoleum Rust-to-primer. We (my wife and I) thought about painting the engine, but we decided it is best left for a warmer day, as we would like to have proper ventilation when we start it. We also tested the color of the engine paint I plan to use on the power steering pump. The lower engine will be a kind of glossy silver / metallic color.

I have attached pics of the parts we painted, and also of my wife painting. She's an artist, so I use that as an excuse to get her to work anytime painting needs to be done. Oh yeah, we also primed the hood hinges.

Nice to have a supportive wife, who does not mind getting her hands dirty. She still groans sometimes when she sees the costs racking up. I just signed up for Premium membership on this board so I can sell some spare stuff to offset my costs.

[DD1]

Can anyone tell me where the best place to buy POR 15 is? Who has it for the best price?

Thanks!

[sgaylord]

Might want to try Autobodytoolmart.com. They are a site sponsor. Prices are pretty reasonable and they ship pretty quick. I buy most of my auto body supplies from them. Looks like it's 46.99 a qt.

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/por-...t-p-14094.aspx


Steve

[DD1]

Thanks, I'll check it out. How many quarts do you usually need for a frame?

[romes20]

Originally Posted by DD1

Thanks, I'll check it out. How many quarts do you usually need for a frame?

Ive read on here you only need one quart for a frame. Might need some extra is your doing other parts.

[DD1]

Ok, so after checking the prices for patch panels for the inner cowl and the inside headliner, I decided that it was way too expensive. I don't mind learning how to weld, but I don't want to have to bend and shape sheet metal in all sorts of funky shapes.

So I ended up picking up the A/C cab from Jim (Jimbabwe on the board) after all. My friend Eric and I went down to his place; the three of us got it loaded up on Eric's pickup truck, and off we went...

Thanks for all of your hospitality today, Jim!!! I really appreciate it! And thanks for letting me use your kitchen for my work conference call!

[DD1]

Over the weekend, I built a hoist for the cab and a cart to rest it on. I got the idea from a post from another user who showed how they lifted their cab. I studied the photos and built the same thing. I am actually surprised at how well it turned out; not that i thought it would not work, but usually when I try and build stuff like this, something major always goes wrong. We had to make some minor adjustments to the cart today, but nothing more than a 5 minute setback.

[DD1]

Finally we got the cab home. Parked Eric's pickup in my back yard, and got the engine hoist, and the cab lift and cart ready. We had to move up the lower support brackets on the cart for the hoist's legs to fit under, but aside from that all went smoothly.

We learned quickly we had to move the cab to the edge of the lift gate to get the engine hoist to fit. I was really happy the hoist was able to go as high as it did. That I made the cab lift about 12" high helped a lot also. Once the cab was high enough, Eric moved the truck and the cab just hung there.

I have some video my wife shot; will upload and send a link if anyone is interested in seeing it.

I accidentally deleted the photo of the cab sitting on the cart; will take another one tomorrow.

[67c10rustbuket]

Sweet, the cab looks pretty nice. are the floors and all good in it? hard to tell from the pics. I know how you feel on the cost I think I'll have $500+ in repair panels in my cab when I'm done. Thats not even counting the complete roof I cut off another cab to replace mine with, then considering the countless hours of measuring, cutting, welding, and grinding.
Nice work on the hoist rig too!

[Jimbabwe]

You're quite welcome. And thank you, too!
I was wondering how the unloading went. Looks like it was probably a bit easier than getting it in there. Good thing I ate my Wheaties.

[DD1]

Originally Posted by 67c10rustbuket

Sweet, the cab looks pretty nice. are the floors and all good in it? hard to tell from the pics. I know how you feel on the cost I think I'll have $500+ in repair panels in my cab when I'm done. Thats not even counting the complete roof I cut off another cab to replace mine with, then considering the countless hours of measuring, cutting, welding, and grinding.
Nice work on the hoist rig too!

Thanks, 67! The cab is in pretty good shape. It does need some work, but a lot less than my cab needs.Someone started a repair on the D/S cab corner, and it looks like they did not finish it or maybe even did not do it right. Also, the firewall has about a 1/2" separation from the floor on the passenger side b/c Jim drove into a pole when his brakes failed and the frame got bent and twisted.

The inner rocker panels could probably stand to be replaced, but they are also in decent enough shape that it's not a priority. As I get into it, maybe I will decided to replace it. Overall it still seems like it won't be too difficult to fix.

I am just glad I don't need to mess with the inner cowl, door pillar, and roof anymore. I figured I was better off getting this cab than spending $500 on panels and still having to weld, grind, and sweat over fixing my cab. I also don't have the patience for all the measuring and grinding...

Thanks for the comment on the lift. I am truly amazed at how well it worked. I am so glad I found this board; I would never have been able to figure it out on my own. I was actually contemplating buying a cab lift online that is very similar to the one I built, at least the same concept, except made out of steel for $170 I think. This was much cheaper.

[DD1]

Originally Posted by Jimbabwe

You're quite welcome. And thank you, too!
I was wondering how the unloading went. Looks like it was probably a bit easier than getting it in there. Good thing I ate my Wheaties.

In retrospect I kind of wish we had brought the cab hoist to your house. If I had known you had an engine hoist, I would have prob tossed it in the back of Eric's truck. I did not feel like loading up the entire engine hoist at 8am, when there was a possibility we might not be able to use it.

It was ABSOLUTELY easier than loading it up. We were down one man, so we had to make it work. I really did not feel like calling my neighbors for help.

[DD1]

Here is a link to a video I created of the transporting of the cab... I had to remove the audio from it; got an email from You Tube that the song I inserted is owned by the IDOA and they may not like it. Just play "Great Balls of Fire" in your head about 1 minute into the video for the same effect.

http://youtu.be/PKr4Ngs6KlU...

[Jimbabwe]

Wow, that thing is awesome! I wish I had all of that driveway width too. Ahhh, the credits. Thanks for the props!
Jim

[DD1]

Ok, So I made just a tiny (really tiny) bit of progress today. It was more of an exploratory job on my "new" cab than anything else. As I suspected it seems like someone attempted to cover up a rust hole in the cab corner, by wrapping a patch panel over it. Only thing is, they did not finish the job.


So, I cut out the patch panel they installed to see what was behind it. As I figured it was another rusty piece of metal. Based on what I found back there, and the overall condition of the drivers side floor edge, I think I am going to replace the drivers side floor with patch panel (see pic), and the rear cab support. The drivers side floor edge is not in the best of shape which is why I am thinking of replacing the whole thing rather than just the rear part of it.



Any thoughts on if this is the right move? Is there something else I should be working on other than the floor panel and the cab support?

[67c10rustbuket]

I used that piece on mine you can see some of the process in my build. I would have to see pics of the inner rocker, cab supports, and where the floor meets the outer rocker under the door sill plate before recommending it. If the rust isnt that bad in the other areas you may just use the rear section( they make that in 2 pieces as well, the front half or the back half) Mine needed some modification but I have seen others use it without modification.

[DD1]

Originally Posted by 67c10rustbuket

I used that piece on mine you can see some of the process in my build. I would have to see pics of the inner rocker, cab supports, and where the floor meets the outer rocker under the door sill plate before recommending it. If the rust isnt that bad in the other areas you may just use the rear section( they make that in 2 pieces as well, the front half or the back half) Mine needed some modification but I have seen others use it without modification.

Thanks for the input! I think you might be the only person reading my thread at this point! To me the whole thing looks like it should just be replaced, however since I am always interested in 2nd opinions, I will post some more detailed pics tomorrow. Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts and experience.

[67c10rustbuket]

Originally Posted by DD1

Thanks for the input! I think you might be the only person reading my thread at this point! To me the whole thing looks like it should just be replaced, however since I am always interested in 2nd opinions, I will post some more detailed pics tomorrow. Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts and experience.

Just watched the vid man that worked out great! And the cab and rockers look to be in real nice shape, definately better than what I started with.

Im not the only one watching you just one of the few commenting, it takes a while to get an audience unless you throw down $20k in parts your first week then everyone wants to watch.

Just make sure when you buy the repair panels that you check the thickness. a lot of the available panels are made by the same taiwan people and they stamp them out of 3 different thicknesses that I have personally seen. If you go to sortafit, uh certi-fit they are the thinnest available. so when you call around to check for repair panels ask what thickness their panels are. I have some on my truck that are 1.2mm and 1.4mm and one floor patch that I think i may not use that is 1.0mm, Flimsy! The floor edge you pictured is 1.4mm and the rockers, corners, and pillars are 1.2mm on my truck. I am no professional just another guy who spent years planning this out and studying what other people did. I would be pretty clueless without this forum.

Well I did already know how to weld somewhat but not a certified pro or anything. And another note I am currently using flux core .030" and have used .035" on sheet metal, It is a little tricky and you cannot run a bead on sheet metal without a lot of practice, just weld a little spot at a time and go a few inches between and go back between untill it is solid. With true MIG gas you can run a short bead but dont get too carried away as you might warp your work. I like to use a backer with the fluxcore to keep it from blowing through as it seems to have a tendency to do so a lot more than true MIG. You can use a piece of aluminum plate or copper plate or eastwood sells weld backers with magnets to stick on the underside, I have one I made that seems to do the job pretty well. It would be ideal to use .024 solid wire/true MIG on sheetmetal but you just need to use a little more practice and patience with the flux core wire. Later

[Jimbabwe]

Originally Posted by DD1

Thanks for the input! I think you might be the only person reading my thread at this point! To me the whole thing looks like it should just be replaced, however since I am always interested in 2nd opinions, I will post some more detailed pics tomorrow. Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts and experience.

We're watching!
Did you find the spot on the frame where I mentioned it would be?

[Jimbabwe]

[QUOTE=67c10rustbuket;5186833

Im not the only one watching you just one of the few commenting, it takes a while to get an audience unless you throw down $20k in parts your first week then everyone wants to watch.


:[/QUOTE]

[DD1]

Originally Posted by Jimbabwe

Jim, I know you are watching.

I did not find it, but I also did not look very hard. I will look again when I have more time and patience.

67, thanks for the welding info. Someone else had suggested .024 true MIG welding, but it does not seem practical for home use. Good to know about the size of the panels. I am planning on buying most of my panels from Classic Parts - I will have to ask them about the thickness.

Did not get a chance to upload those pics of the floor. Hopefully in the next day or so. Thanks for the advice.

[DD1]

Originally Posted by 67c10rustbuket

I used that piece on mine you can see some of the process in my build. I would have to see pics of the inner rocker, cab supports, and where the floor meets the outer rocker under the door sill plate before recommending it. If the rust isnt that bad in the other areas you may just use the rear section( they make that in 2 pieces as well, the front half or the back half) Mine needed some modification but I have seen others use it without modification.

67, first let me say, if I have not done so already, thanks for your help and advice. Here are the photos of the top and underside of the drivers side floor edge.

I put a light under the cab to help show where the hole in the middle of the floor is. For the views underneath, the one with the most messed up cab support is the rear of the cab.

Looking forward to your thoughts on how I should proceed.

Darien

[67c10rustbuket]

hmmm. That is NOT the original rocker panel, it should be spot welded to the inner rocker across the bottom and it looks like it is either taller than the inner rocker or the inner has been trimmed up when they removed the old rocker but it looks like they drilled out the old spot welds where you see all those holes across the bottom. the front looks decent but you will see the real story once you take the rocker off. i would say just the rear half but i dont want to judge it without seeing the "a pillar". that is the lower front section of the pillar that is hiding behind the front of the rocker. It still looks better than what I started with. Surprised it isn't worse for a NYer land of the rusty trunk lid.