broke a bolt off in intake on thermostat housing

[Jake1971]

Originally Posted by 1972BlueC20

Well my intake cracked trying to tap it. So new intake it is. Lol. Any good threads on removing and installing a new intake?

Tip: I used red RTV about 1/4" bead at the front and rear of my Performer intake. The rubber gaskets in the set are trash since 10 times out of 10 they slip out of place. Set the intake in place, install the bolts to hand tight (no tools), leave it overnight for the RTV to set up. Then torque the bolts to specs. I did this to both my chevy engines 10+ years ago and still no leaks. If I missed anything I am sure someone will chime in.

[litew8]

Install An Intake Manifold: Doing The Aluminum Two Step

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by 1972BlueC20

Well my intake cracked trying to tap it. So new intake it is. Lol. Any good threads on removing and installing a new intake?

Its not a hard job. Mark the direction the dizzy is pointing. Remove carb and dizzy.Drain coolant. Take out intake bolts. whack intake with a mallet a few time and/or use prybar to break it loose. Lift and remove. clean all the old gaskets off. Install new gaskets. silicone the ends and throw away the little rubber gaskets they give you.

transfer dizzy mark to new manifold.

Set the new intake straight down so you don't f up the gaskets or the silicone. Put silicone on the bolts (I recommend new bolts, they are cheap). Torque it down according to the instructions that came with the manifold. Reinstall carb and dizzy. Make sure dizzy aligns with the mark you made. Hook up upper hose and refill with coolant. check for leaks, start it up and re-set timing.

Its an afternoon job, I'd rate it 2 beers.

[1972BlueC20]

Thanks guys for all your help!! It sucks what happened, but at least I will know how to handle this situation next time and I think my intake was leaking at the back anyways so this should fix the leak I have. I bought this truck to learn, and learning I am LOL....

I think I might either strip and re-paint my factory valve covers while I'm at it, or get some shiny new ones....if I chose to strip and repaint, any tips?

Also, I think I'll go with an edelbrock performer intake.....I already have a edelbrock carb...

[1972BlueC20]

Also, are there provisions for everything to mount on?

Like vaccum fitting for the tranny? Brackets for kickdown cable? Dist Coil?

Also, it looks like there are 2 inlets on the front for the coolant line that runs to the heater core. I'm assuming this is so you can use either side? Does the intake come with a plug for the side you don't use??

[litew8]

Keep all your original brackets etc..., best you can to reuse.

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by 1972BlueC20

Also, are there provisions for everything to mount on?

Like vaccum fitting for the tranny? Brackets for kickdown cable? Dist Coil?

Also, it looks like there are 2 inlets on the front for the coolant line that runs to the heater core. I'm assuming this is so you can use either side? Does the intake come with a plug for the side you don't use??

Edelbrock performer is a good choice for most truck engines.

The bolt holes are there for all the brackets, so just re-use all the stock stuff. There is a port for manifold vacuum, so just swap the fitting from the old manifold to the new one.

You will probably have to buy a plug for the side you don't use, but its just pipe thread. Plumbing aisle at Home Depot.

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by 1972BlueC20

Thanks guys for all your help!! It sucks what happened, but at least I will know how to handle this situation next time and I think my intake was leaking at the back anyways so this should fix the leak I have. I bought this truck to learn, and learning I am LOL....

I think I might either strip and re-paint my factory valve covers while I'm at it, or get some shiny new ones....if I chose to strip and repaint, any tips?

Also, I think I'll go with an edelbrock performer intake.....I already have a edelbrock carb...

If you strip and repaint, get the aircraft stripper at the auto parts store. Clean with solvent after stripping, and use high temp engine paint when you repaint them. I recommend pulling them off and repainting on the bench. Get new gaskets, and make sure you get the good thick FelPro gaskets.

You can get chrome Edelbrock covers at the parts stores for about $30, but they are cheapo in every way and will rust in a fairly short amount of time.

[1972BlueC20]

@ Lattimer


Thanks man!! Good info!

I'm gonna tackle all this tomorrow!! Hope it all goes smooth!

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by 1972BlueC20

@ Lattimer


Thanks man!! Good info!

I'm gonna tackle all this tomorrow!! Hope it all goes smooth!

Take your time, pay attention to how everything comes apart. Take pictures if you think you might forget.

First time I did an intake I was nervous as hell, but I took my time and it went fine.

[snipescastle2]

Sorry if this was said in earleir posts, but, if you have an arc welder, you can place a nut on the intake over the bolt hole and weld the nut to the broken bolt, the weld won't stick to cast iron, plus the heat from welding will most likely break it free when you try and back it off with a wrench.
HTH,
Ben

[kcsa75]

Lots of good information here. Swapping the intake is not a big deal. Just use common sense and take your time.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/.../2000/2101.pdf

The same thing happened to me. If you're not in a hurry, Craigslist can be your friend. I bought a used (nearly perfect) Edelbrock Performer for $35 and a set of Edelbrock chrome valve covers for the same $$$ on eBay.

Good luck!

[Turbo1dr]

Originally Posted by dfrank

That is why you use a center punch to mark the center of the broken bolt and then drill and tap. You have to use a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the bolt though.

Try doing that in a place where you can't get a center punch, tap or drill in there.

[1972BlueC20]

well it keeps getting worse, I pulled the intake off and was prepping to start the cleaning of the gasket surfaces.....and I noticed the driver side front bolt hole in the cylinder head is cracked....Now i'm starting to get in over my head....can I jb weld this and get by for now? or do I defintly have to replace the heads?

Here's a picture

[dfrank]

Originally Posted by 1972BlueC20

well it keeps getting worse, I pulled the intake off and was prepping to start the cleaning of the gasket surfaces.....and I noticed the driver side front bolt hole in the cylinder head is cracked....Now i'm starting to get in over my head....can I jb weld this and get by for now? or do I defintly have to replace the heads?

Here's a picture

You are probably going to need to replace the head. How many miles are on this motor? It is a lot easier to change the head with the motor out of the truck. Maybe consider just doing a rebuild while the motor is out of the truck unless it is a fairly fresh motor. I would NOT try and JB Weld that. That really sucks though.

[Lattimer]

No good fix for that. Head will have to be replaced. When you try to put a bolt in that its going to break the rest of the way, and you will probably have a manifold leak there.

[1972BlueC20]

Yeah that's what I figured!!!

Do you know what heads those are? I need to find a new pair or just 1 and have them both re-done. Are the left and right or both the same on both sides? Either that or just get a new crate engine. Or a new pair of heads like edelbrock... but those are like almost $1000!!!! Might as well get a crate engine for $1700-$2300 ish

Any opinions on what I should do?

[dfrank]

Originally Posted by 1972BlueC20

Yeah that's what I figured!!!

Do you know what heads those are? I need to find a new pair or just 1 and have them both re-done. Are the left and right or both the same on both sides? Either that or just get a new crate engine. Or a new pair of heads like edelbrock... but those are like almost $1000!!!! Might as well get a crate engine for $1700-$2300 ish

Any opinions on what I should do?

Build the engine you want for the truck.

[1972BlueC20]

Will it hurt the value to not have the original engine? Also, I know this might be a dumb question, but if I was to buy a gm performance crate 350 like for instance one of these :

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12499529

or

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-19244450


if I needed parts later, could I still go into the parts store and say I need a whatever for a 1972 C20 with 5.7 350?

These are all things that I need to consider.

Will all these carburetor crate 350 engines bolt up to my TH350 and engine mounts ect?

[dfrank]

Originally Posted by 1972BlueC20

Will it hurt the value to not have the original engine? Also, I know this might be a dumb question, but if I was to buy a gm performance crate 350 like for instance one of these :

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12499529

or

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-19244450


if I needed parts later, could I still go into the parts store and say I need a whatever for a 1972 C20 with 5.7 350?

These are all things that I need to consider.

Will all these carburetor crate 350 engines bolt up to my TH350 and engine mounts ect?

It won't help the value to not have the original engine. I guess the question is.... is the rest of the truck all original?

Second ?

Yes you still tell the parts stores the same thing which would be 72 c20 with 350

Third ?

Yes they will bolt up to your tranny and motor mounts.

I prefer to build my own engines the way I want them with the power that I want that would match up to the truck good. This is a c20 do you plan on doing any towing? I would go with a 383 stroker myself. Just stay away from blueprint engines. If you don't believe me then search marshall engines problems. Marshall engines owns blueprint engines.

[POPO1984]

If your gonna go the new engine route and want to go local check with Houston engine and balancing. There on shaver right before southmore. They did all my block prep and are top quality.

[dfrank]

Originally Posted by POPO1984

If your gonna go the new engine route and want to go local check with Houston engine and balancing. There on shaver right before southmore. They did all my block prep and are top quality.

Always go local if you can.

[Lattimer]

I'd say your choice depends on the overall condition of the engine vs. what you want out of the truck. If it runs good, doesn't use oil, doesn't leak a lot, and has enough power for what you want to do, just get a "new" stock head. You need to take the numbers cast into the head beside the valves to determine exactly what head it is. There are a bunch of websites that will give you the info to decode it.

Find a local shop that does head work and I'll bet they have something laying around that is rebuildable and will work for you. Probably cost you a few hundred. Changing a head isn't all that hard.

[Steeveedee]

You can get a replacement head from the rebuilder, and pay the core charge, because they will not want to stand behind a broken part if they were to rebuild it. If your current engine is working OK other than the current issues, just get another head and put it on. It's up to you if you want it "numbers matching". I got "lucky" by getting an old truck that way. Some people are married to that concept, some people couldn't care less. Again, up to you, you own it.

[litew8]

wow, bad luck - but some good learning experience you're going through. I suggest you buy a book - it'd be much easier to learn than trying to understand what everyone here says. If you go the new engine route, find a good mechanic local to help you install it.