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#1 |
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Location: Tucson, AZ USA
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
They're called Air Vents. LMC lists new seals [p/n 38-7420] and knobs [p/n 30-2630]. My catalog is old so you'll have to look up current pricing.
Clean them up. If you're lucky the little 1/4'' dia. spring-loaded pivot pins at 12 0'clock and 6 0'clock aren't rusted out. They snap into 1/4'' holes at 12 and 6 on the cab kick panel. If they're AFU, you'll have to source them from junkyards, parts dismantlers, WTB ad, the usual. I call them ,,Mexican A/C''. EDIT: Good news -- LMC now sells repro vent doors. P/N: 38-5348 [+9] Bad news -- they're $50 each. Hey Kurt, You were looking for a better solution to pot metal heater control levers? Here you go: www.oldairproducts.com P/n: 50-7725B ''67-72 Chevy/GMC Non-Air Heater Only, Lever Controls w/ Black Face'' [Steel]. ....$28.50 GMail sent.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 02-20-2019 at 05:16 PM. |
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#2 | |
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Location: Prescott Arizona
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Quote:
I see the whole heater unit is more reasonable than expected, so that is on my wish list. I'm also tempted to buy new taillight and backup light lenses, after replacing the wiring harness. Some things I will buy new, if safety or comfort related, and can't be scratch-built. I need to search and find how to adjust the hood, that can't be difficult, can it? http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...nge+adjustment My first job of hauling, was out of firewood, snow is coming again, and since no woodcutters have any now due to the weather and being colder than "normal", got some from my mom. LOL ![]()
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1968 Long Bed 2016 Honda Civic Coupe EX-T ticket magnet |
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#3 |
Senior Member
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Location: Tucson, AZ USA
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Yeah, I brought inside a milk crate of 14 - 16'' length mesquite, I originally cut for the BBQ smoker. It won't get as cold here, but sure is nasty to us locals. My parents used to have a cabin in Pinetop. I miss the smell of Juniper smoke.
You can spot the Snowbirds in the supermarket -- they're in khaki shorts and tanktops, while the locals all have their puffy down jackets on. I have a fireplace, and installed a wrought iron crane arm on the right side. so I can swing a Dutch oven over the coals and cook. My Shepherds' Pie is killer. I add a pint of Guinness. There's a few pounds of Bison stew meat in the freezer. Maybe Buffalo Red Chile? Back to trucks -- a professional wiring harness is a safety necessity. I recommend M&H Electrical Fabricators. USA-made, with factory spec color codes, gauge sizes, exact lengths, and Packard [OEM style] connectors. Perfect fit. [Fifty year old copper lines get brittle, not to mention packrats.] And the technician who builds the harness puts a tag with his name on it. Thev are not cheap, however. www.wirengharness.com/ I spent my last 3 off days trying to get my horn working again. Anyway the Stepside has a new Turm Signal switch and harness. I'll post it on the Electrical forum later. I'm stumped. I replied to your email.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 02-21-2019 at 05:42 AM. |
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#4 | |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Quote:
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#5 |
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Location: Centennial, CO
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
That is a great truck, and one of my favorite color combinations. It helps that you take good pictures also.
I will second the vote for M&H wiring. A very quality product. When you get the heater control replaced or rebuilt, be sure to lube the cables and pivot points in the duct system. It will make a world of difference. It’s worth taking it all apart to clean and re-furbish, you’ll get another 50 years of use out of it.
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ClusterTruck: 68 C10 Bought in 89, wrecked in 03. Slow low $ rebuild started '17. 6.0 & TKO http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=788602 93 K1500 Short Step, 350, NV4500, EBL flash ECU. Vortec heads & roller cam someday... 05 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. 3” lift & 6-speed 02 E320 the insurance total “free car” 13 Tahoe LTZ |
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#6 | |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Quote:
I was wondering about that, same with a bicycle shifter/brake cable, helps to lube them. I already ordered the wiring from LMC, did for the previous truck and worked for me. Check this out, the guy I bought this from, has a Cadillac Coupe like yours that he is fixing up. He said one piece of side trim was hundreds of bucks. He regretted having to sell this, that's why I committed to buying it.
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#7 |
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Great looking truck!! Love the original paint. So cool to find the build sheet still there as well!
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#8 |
Senior Member
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Location: Tucson, AZ USA
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
So Hell Froze Over this morning -- snowing in Tucson.
Didn't last though. Just all wet now.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
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#9 |
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Location: Prescott Arizona
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Snowed just outside of Phoenix too!
Prescott got hammered. I was at undocumented wife's house last two days, she could get out on her street with Honda CRV, my car is buried. I got home, have a fire going now. ![]() ![]() Guess I won't be working on it, or driving for awhile.
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1968 Long Bed 2016 Honda Civic Coupe EX-T ticket magnet |
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#10 |
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Location: Tucson, AZ USA
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
I'm at 2700'. What's the elevation there?
Letter mailed tonight.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
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#11 |
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Location: Prescott Arizona
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
I'm at 5,420 feet. (thanks, sent off today)
![]() Put my first new part on today! ![]() Ditched the crap sealed beam headlights.... ![]() ![]() ![]() In the name of safety. And I just like the looks of the Hella units, and they are brighter white. Also used fine steel wool and polish on the trim rings.
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1968 Long Bed 2016 Honda Civic Coupe EX-T ticket magnet |
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#12 |
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Location: Tucson, AZ USA
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Looks nice. Did you cut in a relay harness, or stay with the stock wiring?
You might wanta keep the old lights for spares. Last November, I blew thru a string of 4 or 5 headlights, until I R+R'd the EVR. Also a lost nut on the positive starter cable was a contributing factor. I like the halogen lamps but the Sylvania Nighthawks I used to run went up to $25 each...That's fifty bucks for both. Late night, and stores closed, with a work call in the morning, I even cannibalised the headlamps off my '67 Suburban. One I had to glue back together with RTV, the lens had separated from the reflector due to 20 years of sunbaking. The other one slipped off my tailgate and smashed on the hard ground when I moved my leg. Ooops. I got a deal of 4 NAPA/Wagners from RockAuto for $3.87 each. Then two popped from my wild voltage surges. Settled down now, but I'd keep the hard core old school stuff around for when the fancy stuff goes poof. Wow, that's twice my elevation. Reminds me of snaps of my trucks snowed upon in Pinetop. I'll have to dig them out and digitize them.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 02-26-2019 at 01:28 AM. |
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#13 |
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: El Dorado Ca
Posts: 3,374
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
nice old truck!!!!
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#14 |
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Location: Prescott Arizona
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Thanks, it looks good for a beater, runs like a champ but I need to find where all the oil is leaking and get that fixed.
Yes, keeping the headlights. The pile is growing. Customer wanted me to check his property, where he is building his vacation home. It's a higher elevation, and on a north slope. He is going to need a quad with a plow. I parked just far enough for dramatic effect, and almost got stuck, but some branches and kicking snow got me out. ![]()
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1968 Long Bed 2016 Honda Civic Coupe EX-T ticket magnet |
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#15 |
Senior Member
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Location: Tucson, AZ USA
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
What rear end do you have on that? If you had a posi you'd be a snowstompimg big dog
[pkg rec'd]
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
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#16 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
I sincerely doubt it's positraction, otherwise no idea.
I got the back wiring harness installed, have brake/running lights, turn signals, but no back-up lights, so guess I need a b-up switch now. Link to a back-up switch topic: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...p+light+switch Also trying to replace the ignition switch cylinder, I did it on the '69. But ain't working this time! grrrr http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...25#post8476025
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1968 Long Bed 2016 Honda Civic Coupe EX-T ticket magnet Last edited by 89AKurt; 02-27-2019 at 07:50 PM. |
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#17 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
I'm so stoked!
![]() I get excited about getting models too, this is about the same. ![]() I mean seriously?!?! What is with the stupid label, I'm not having sex with the box! ![]() Looks like this was repaired before. And then damaged again. ![]() Ready to rip the old wiring out. A cheapskate thing I did, was clean the housings, mask and sprayed silver. They had also been installed with only one screw, so I used aluminum duct tape to cover the hole. ![]() Comparing the harnesses. This truck has the non-bulb sidelights. Will need to get the license lamp next order. ![]() The one part made in the USA, was disappointed. One of the "nuts" came off, another was not lined up to the hole. ![]() I didn't like how it sagged, so shoved a 1/2" x 1/2" stick under it. Cheapskate repair! ![]() I wanted to adjust the hood. The thread on this forum was very helpful. ![]() ![]() The back-up lights were not working. So I found a couple of threads related to the 4 speed (90% were about the 3 on-the-tree), which said you have to take off the hump to see the switch. What a PITA, needed to remove the little plastic duct, also removed the rubber boot. Good thing I didn't care about the seat, or paint. This was the critical position to get it over the shifter. ![]() Yea, there's the bugger! I need to remove that foam. ![]() When I had looked over the engine bay, noticed this loose wire. The terminal matched! ![]() This made my day! ![]() But I'm pissed about the ignition switch. Also with all the slamming of the hood shut, one of the headlight adjuster plastic nuts broke, the headlight was looking at the ground, so I scrounged for two nuts, not adjustable but it's back in place. Will go to the car wash and clean the transmission before putting it back together. Drove it tonight, I have flickering lights. grrrr
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#18 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
All want to know, where is the transmission fill hole? Going to crawl under the passenger side.
https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledg.../manual/sm465/
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#19 | |
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Location: Tucson, AZ USA
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Quote:
They can really be stuck on there. Use a wrench with a warranty, so if you break it, you can trade-out for another. You might need a cheater bar, a section of steel pipe over the wrench to get enough torque. Unspin CCW. Fill with SAE 90 weight or better. until the gear oil starts to ooze back out the fill hole. You want GL-4 not GL-5 rated gear oil. The GL-5 has additives that are very good for clutches in limited slip differentials, but bad for the phosfor-bronze alloy of the synchros in the SM 465. Consult Owner's Manual for proper fill levels. As for the video, it'd be a lot quieter with the hump cover back on. Does not sound abnormal. I like that modification. You can jettison your spent beercans without having to roll the window down.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 03-01-2019 at 09:28 PM. |
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#20 | |
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Location: Prescott Arizona
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Quote:
LOL You need to catch up with the times, that's a roach ash tray. ![]()
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#21 |
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Location: Prescott Arizona
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Because the weather forecast is for rain all day tomorrow, I worked on KLUGE.
(Old term in computer programming....sort of a 'hack' or shortcut..usually badly done) Replaced the ignition key cylinder. I got a tip from the thread posted above, had to drill out because it would not go left. ![]() The nirvana moment. ![]() The key (pun intended) was removing the flat tab, then it would rotate counter clockwise with effort. Used a punch instead of a paper clip. I messed up the main part a little, but it still works. ![]() Wanted to explore the steering wheel hub. Think that part is shot, previous owner wrapped the horn button with electrical tape, it fell on my lap the other day. ![]() I made the puller for the '69, needed to grind a little smaller to fit this wheel. ![]() The turn signal switch looks ok, but does not cancel. I can live with that. Cleaned the steering wheel before installing. Horn isn't working, I put a screw driver from shaft to steering wheel to test (accidentally found that out on the '69). ![]() Put the transmission hump back on. Since the floor is rusted, and the back edge of the cover is badly rusted too, I didn't care how sloppy I was gluing the cork gasket onto the floor. I also resisted painting the boot retainer ring, left it rusty. ![]() Now it can rain, we need it!
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#22 |
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Location: Tucson, AZ USA
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Looks like you need a new Horn Cap Retainer, p/n 60-06414, $5.00 from
www.truckandcarshop.com They also have the Turn Signal Switch Cancelling Springs, p/n 67-06707, $3.00 a pair. I replaced my '68's OEM ignition switch years ago. It now goes to ACC, but I'm not sure there's anything there. I remember having a hard time with the ignition sw on the '67 Sub. The bezel is different. I used a chisel and small ball pien hammer and gave light taps at each 120* notch until it came to finger tight and spun off. The 67's notches are smaller, so harder to grip. I'm also having horn gripes. Currently doesn't work. The OEM '68 horn, I drilled out the rivets holding it together, cleaned out the interior, de-rusted the vibrator coil, re-assembled it with screws and nuts -- and it wotked again. Then I painted it satin black and it won't work. Most likely it's paint interfering with grounding. Another part of the problem is the short, either in the column or under dash. Have inspected it all, but for under the Fuse Panel/Bulkhead Connector, and see no obvious faults. Tried 3 different Horn Relays, OEM, one fron '67 Sub, and a new one from Auto Zone. All bench test OK. But when energized stay on. Right now horn button does not click relay. I put a piece of E-tape under the steel plate on the bottom of the T/S Sw. Maybe that is supposed to flow thru to ground? I also got fancy and tried adding a second High A 440 hz, Bosch horn off a vintage Mercedes [where did I get that?] along with the stock Delco-Remy Mid C-note horn. Sounded like some angry Late-Fifties progressive jazz -- Monk on a rant, too cool -- but I can't get it to work out yet. I don't think the 2 horns make so much current that the relay sticks On. Most V8s had dual horns without special horn relays. [Horn Relay Relay?] I have pix, but I wanted to post a Horn Gripe on the Electrical subforum, where the Experts will see it, so I'll save pix for now. ![]()
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
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#23 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
This sounding normal? (how do I have the video show?)
https://www.facebook.com/10000846199...0355330256513/
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#24 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
When I pulled into the Harbor Freight parking lot today, the horn started blowing! Good to know it works, now I need to sort this out. I had cleaned the paint off the steering wheel, the back that the pin rubs against, and inside where the plate sits. Why would it just start working?
Relevant threads: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...orn+will+-stop http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...orn+will+-stop http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=707526 Next task, figure out why the headlights flickr.
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#25 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Thanks for another source! Didn't see that LMC has the rubber retainer (pg.61). I am missing the cancelling cam. But I do know the horn works, but is sure is wimpy. My dad put air horns on his Mercedes, was always messing with the leaking hoses or something.
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1968 c10, blue/white, long bed |
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