Need info on GMC 1ton dually!

[MrBeast]

Originally Posted by grendel

I can put my hands on about 6 sets of C+C hubs right now.

I also prefer standard axleshafts.

That also has a lot to do with what part of the country you are in, I can imagine in the north east that many more chasis cabs would be ordered than in texas, due to the fact that there are more city "delivery" style vehicles there, where as in texas the lions share get ordered with beds and often times are yanking a goose neck, or a trailer load of oil field equipment.

It is like how when I go to montana I will score a couple of Dana 60's cheap, but in texas they are about impossible to find because no one here has the need for a 4x4 1 ton, and those who do, well they arent too fond of the idea of selling them.

[watahyahknow]

on a 14 bolt it isnt to hard to make it a chassis cab : its actually a 14 bolt single wheel truck axle with dually hubs on it .
the only thing that needs to be chainged is the flanges that hold the backingplate for the 1 ton drumbrakes ....oh yeah you need the complete drumbrakesetup as whell .
there are kit available to turn them into diskbrakes , those take the front diskbrakes from a K20 and caddilac rearbrakes (those have an emergency brake setup on them )
most of this info on 14 bolts is found here : http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ble/index.html
i however dont know if they fit the older style trucks

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

on a 14 bolt it isnt to hard to make it a chassis cab : its actually a 14 bolt single wheel truck axle with dually hubs on it .
the only thing that needs to be chainged is the flanges that hold the backingplate for the 1 ton drumbrakes ....oh yeah you need the complete drumbrakesetup as whell .
there are kit available to turn them into diskbrakes , those take the front diskbrakes from a K20 and caddilac rearbrakes (those have an emergency brake setup on them )
most of this info on 14 bolts is found here : http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ble/index.html
i however dont know if they fit the older style trucks

The perches have to be moved on the newer rearend to fit a 67-72 truck.

[FormerMember]

Originally Posted by 67_C-30

The perches have to be moved on the newer rearend to fit a 67-72 truck.

Not a 1 ton axle, although doesn't matter to the OP, as he's going to 4 link and bag it.

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by grendel

Not a 1 ton axle, although doesn't matter to the OP, as he's going to 4 link and bag it.

I had to move the perches on my 14 bolt to fit my truck. It came out a '97 C3500, so all 1 tons are not all the same.

[jeffspower]

Originally Posted by 67_C-30

I had to move the perches on my 14 bolt to fit my truck. It came out a '97 C3500, so all 1 tons are not all the same.

'88- up C/K rears have their own specific pad spread, different from all other years. '73- '87 C/K and '88- up R/V one ton rears (CC or factory bed, dually or single, wide or narrow)are a bolt- in for '67- '72, aside from shock mount, brake line & parking brake cable differences.

[Rokcrln]

Thanks for all the info and pic's. I like these two pics and I thing the Black one is the cleaner look I might go for. Of course mine will be a crew cab short bed. I wonder how it would look with the sides just "flaired" out a bit for coverage instead of doing a step side or bushwaker type flair.
So if I under stand right I wil not have problems with the inner duals and my inner wheel housing right? I still want to be able to haul plywood and stuff since I will sell Low Buck and be down to just one truck for material hauling. A cummins would be my first choice and would get the better MPG but I do have a low mile 2005 5.3L Vortec and 4l60E just sitting around I need to use in somthing.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

So if I under stand right I wil not have problems with the inner duals and my inner wheel housing right? I still want to be able to haul plywood and stuff since I will sell Low Buck and be down to just one truck for material hauling.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

No, that's why you have to have the big flares. The inner wheels will not fit without them. The distance between the inner tires on my factory rearend was 41". The distance btween the inside tubs is like 49". That's the biggest reason why I didn't go with the flareless style.

This is 72Freak's blue '68 Longhorn dually. Notice he had to widen the tubs a lot to make it work.

[67_C-30]

If you wanna haul plywood, here's some inspirational pics for you!

[skchevota]

Just a little info for you. Mid 70s dodge moter homes( I have a 75 commander, that is how I found this out) have Dana 70 HD rears that have the same 63" width and also have the same width spring perches .
It is a complete bolt in large brake narrow dually rear end. I have scoped this out so when it is time for the commander to go to the great scrap yard in the sky, I can upgrade my rearend so I wont be so leary about the cummins and a dana 60 combo in my truck.

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by skchevota

Just a little info for you. Mid 70s dodge moter homes( I have a 75 commander, that is how I found this out) have Dana 70 HD rears that have the same 63" width and also have the same width spring perches .
It is a complete bolt in large brake narrow dually rear end. I have scoped this out so when it is time for the commander to go to the great scrap yard in the sky, I can upgrade my rearend so I wont be so leary about the cummins and a dana 60 combo in my truck.

A Ford 1 ton Dana 70 will bolt right in like that too. I put one in my '69 C-30 ramp truck with no modifications.

[67_C-30]

Oops! DP!

[Rokcrln]

Yep that yellow one sure looks right as well. I will have my wife sit down and look them over as well, she is half of my design team and she really does a great job. I wil give her 4-5 pics and a marker and she starts marking what looks good and what does not or what she wants me to tweak but when it is done I must say I normally like the end results. We did this with several other builds including Low Buck and we all know how that one turned out. She has already informed me she will be going for the 67-68 look

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[MrBeast]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Yep that yellow one sure looks right as well. I will have my wife sit down and look them over as well, she is half of my design team and she really does a great job. I wil give her 4-5 pics and a marker and she starts marking what looks good and what does not or what she wants me to tweak but when it is done I must say I normally like the end results. We did this with several other builds including Low Buck and we all know how that one turned out. She has already informed me she will be going for the 67-68 look

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Ya know, dont get me wrong, but on the 1 ton, I just don't like the 67/68 clip, On a 2wd short bed, man I think it looks great, especially if you are aiming for the "socal" look.

But when you start talking dually tow vehicle, a truck that is rugged and tough, that works had for a living, the more bull nose look of the 72, especially in a GMC really turns my crank. Not only that but 1 ton dually GMC's are a pretty rare find, expecially in a custom crew cab, I have seen many crew cabs though with the 67/68 clip. I think there are two of them on the site alone here with the cummins.

Just to add a little more food for thought, here is a picture of my dually, I loved the towing body on the back of it, I am working on an update right now.

[Rokcrln]

Well here are the pic's. I am going to pass on this one, only the frame is worth keeping. The sheet metal does not look too bad but trust me every were I looked I found way to much rust to even deal with trying to give it all away. Even the roof front head panel is 100% shot, I folded the sun visor down and the head panel came with it So I will keep looking and finish other projects in the mean time.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[jeffspower]

Welcome to an above average Midwest truck- we would be fighting for something that solid out here

[Longhorn Man]

my thoughts exactly

[MrBeast]

you know my .02 here, that truck would actually be worth a second look. If I know you like I think I do, I am going to bet that you have another cab around there somewhere, and for what you are doing, it isn't exactly like you are going to be really concerned with keeping it original anyways.

I cant remember or not if you have a donor suburban lined up or not yet, but in all actuality, why not chop it off between the back doors, and section in the back of another cab?

[FormerMember]

Hell, the scrap metal from that is worth 500.00

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by MrBeast

you know my .02 here, that truck would actually be worth a second look. If I know you like I think I do, I am going to bet that you have another cab around there somewhere, and for what you are doing, it isn't exactly like you are going to be really concerned with keeping it original anyways.

I cant remember or not if you have a donor suburban lined up or not yet, but in all actuality, why not chop it off between the back doors, and section in the back of another cab?

I have plenty of cabs and this one was going to get a 4 door crew cab that I have been working on. I also have a 4door burb in the final stages of metal work but I was looking at this one for just the frame and was hopping to have a few parts left over to use or sell. Their is not much worth keeping except the frame. I think i might just look for a decent long bed truck and swap things with that and build a 2x6x1/4" back half since it will be getting notched and linked.

Originally Posted by grendel

Hell, the scrap metal from that is worth 500.00

Yes you are right it is but it is not worth the time it would take me. I have way to many customer projects lined up right now to take that much time to part and scrape this out when all I want was the frame. Even at that I would need a different rear diff to get the gears I need as well as the width.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[68K30]

For what it's worth I put a 1975 C-30 14-bolt in my 72 K-20 frame, the banjo axle needed too many new parts. I thought I would need to move the spring perches but it bolted right in including the driveshaft, the only thing that I moved was the shock mounts. A year ago I wanted to switch to a dually rear I found a 1986 P-30 14-bolt and again it fit right in all but the shocks. I checked the pinion angle on the original rear and on both 14-bolts and that is even the same, you gotta love Chevy.

[jaros44sr]

I'm subscribed....

[watahyahknow]

the P30 is also a narrow chassis cab axle its under breadtrucks and some of the bigger campers based on that chassis .
chevies are pretty universal