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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Porter Ranch, CA
Posts: 978
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Re: Fuel milage
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#2 |
Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires
![]() Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 23,090
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Re: Fuel milage
My comments were based on everything being in a truck and about a truck. Why would I care what a firebird with the same engine got? I'd assume that for the sake of common sense we were talking about the fuel mileage of a truck.
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Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride ![]() American Born, Country by the Grace of God ![]() 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications! |
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#3 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: san bernardino ca. everywhere
Posts: 3,938
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Re: Fuel milage
dont understand exactly how but im averaging about 17.5 miles to the gallon on the freeway doing about 65 in my burb, and 6.5 around town driving like an old lady
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: independence mo
Posts: 2,111
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Re: Fuel milage
I get 8 mpg, If I was worried about fuel mileage I would buy an S10.
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I'm not as good as I once was, But I'm as good once as I ever was. |
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#5 |
optomistic ah-so
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 544
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Re: Fuel milage
For around town traffic, stop and g stuff the biggest impact on your fuel mileage will be weight, especially rotating weight.
Lighter wheels, or wheel and tire combinations, along with regular lightening tricks will help. If you were doing long freeway runs, with open roads and little to no traffic, you would want nearly the opposite--heavier rotating mass would carry your momentum allowing you to coast more. The Q-jet, or another spreadbore carb, gets another nod from me. So does the Multi-spark ignition, you can get boxes for as little as $175 new that may not be drag strip heroes but improve cold-starting as well (even with points). Choosing a trans that matches your torque peak to the speeds you drive most also helps in traffic in particular. Since you already have a 3.08, I'm thinking a 5-speed or at least a 4-speed so you get gears you can use stoplight to stoplight. If you have to have an automatic, the lower rotating mass gives the nod to a TH-350. If you want an overdrive tranny you'll never use the OD unless you change to 4ish gears. I always found about 62 MPH to be the speed (American) that I could get the best gas mileage. There seems to be a balance there between mechanical resistance and where air resistance takes over. To improve aerodynamics, make sure the window frames line up with the door jambs tightly (roll down windows while adjusting this), close up body gaps and hood edges. Seal whatever you can. If you can hear a whistling noise, that's air passing through a restrictive opening, fighting your truck and slowing it down. When you are ready to spend a couple dollars, converting to a truck/RV profile hydraulic roller cam or engine should be less expensive with more satisfying results than TPI.
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Rubbing is Racin' Ribbing is Bench Racin' 1970 C-10 lwb Fleetside. Originally 350 2-bbl 3-on-the-tree, m/b, m/w, m/s no a/c. Currently running on a '76 Camaro 305. ![]() |
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