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#26 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 150
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
Well I took a whack at this mod this past weekend and it didn't work out so well for me. We drilled the new locating holes and I grinded the lip of the cross member to clear, but my problem was that the control arm bushing sleeve hit the locating rod saddle. We are going to try again in the future when I replace my front springs and instead of 3/4" we will either try 9/16" or 5/8". I think the problem is that the outer bushing sleeve on the energy suspension poly bushings are slightly longer than what was on it previously.
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Shawty: '84 C10 Silverado SWB, 700r4, SBC 350 - 4 bolt main, bored 60 over w/ Weiand aluminum intake and moderate cam, 2" true dual exhaust, Thrush mufflers, 3.42:1 gears -- Build Thread The Tranny (wrecked ![]() |
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#27 |
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Richmond,Va
Posts: 2,934
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
I just stumbled across this thread. Nice work! Looks like Ive got some catching up to do. I understand your concern with bumpsteer. I remember Rob saying you either have to heat the spindle arm, heat the centerlink or build a new centerlink. I think he also mentioned redrilling the steering arm and relocating the tie rod on the bottom. Subscribed to see the results!
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#28 | |
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Location: apple valley, ca
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
Quote:
Is there any way you could post up a picture so we can maybe come up with a solution? You've come so far, and hopefully, we can all get our heads together and get you back on the road.
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#29 |
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 150
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
I will try to get some pics of it tonight and post them.
I am fairly certain of the measurements between the existing holes and the new ones, since we measured 2 or 3 times each before drilling the new hole. I didn't want to grind the saddle in case it might weaken the mount at all. And it is still factory rivets holding it in place. It was hitting bad enough that we couldn't get it to sit in the new locating hole on the cross shaft whenever the aft part of the shaft was raised flush with the saddle. From best we could see it looks like we were about 1/16" or 1/8" off. The way I see it, I have two more times to try it before the cross shaft is ruined. We turned the shaft 90* when drilling so there is another 180* to work with ![]() At this point the truck is fully reassembled. This is my daily driver and I needed to get it back up and running for the work week. For now we rotated the shaft back to factory specs. The truck already handles much better from all of the other suspension and steering work that we did, but I was looking forward to the added caster. I hope to pick up some lowering springs and spindles in the next few months and when we have it broke down then I will take another attempt at it.
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Shawty: '84 C10 Silverado SWB, 700r4, SBC 350 - 4 bolt main, bored 60 over w/ Weiand aluminum intake and moderate cam, 2" true dual exhaust, Thrush mufflers, 3.42:1 gears -- Build Thread The Tranny (wrecked ![]() |
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#30 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 150
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
The pic is a little blurry, but you can see where the saddle and sleeve are right now. When moved 3/4" forward it hits just enough that it won't bolt up in place. I think I will get under there with a caliper and see how much distance there is between the sleeve and the saddle so I can determine where I went wrong or how much I can move it without it hitting. I will post back when I find out what that is.
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Shawty: '84 C10 Silverado SWB, 700r4, SBC 350 - 4 bolt main, bored 60 over w/ Weiand aluminum intake and moderate cam, 2" true dual exhaust, Thrush mufflers, 3.42:1 gears -- Build Thread The Tranny (wrecked ![]() |
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#31 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 150
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
So I decided not to be lazy and went outside and measured the gap between the saddle and the sleeve. Turns out that the smallest gap is on the outside of the saddle, or the side that is closest to the side of the truck. From the closest point to the outer sleeve of the bushing is 0.63". Looks like 5/8 is gonna be the best I am able to do for caster gain on this one. That'll leave me .005" of "wiggle" room between the sleeve. I wonder why mine is so much closer than everyone else's?
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Shawty: '84 C10 Silverado SWB, 700r4, SBC 350 - 4 bolt main, bored 60 over w/ Weiand aluminum intake and moderate cam, 2" true dual exhaust, Thrush mufflers, 3.42:1 gears -- Build Thread The Tranny (wrecked ![]() |
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#32 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: FI South Carolina
Posts: 125
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
Nice work guys, I have a later model ('90) and plan to get more caster. I'm not sure how i'm going to do it yet, havent gotten that far. I really like the positive locating bolt very solid!
Matt
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#33 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Eldon, Iowa
Posts: 16
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
Very good info guys, keep it coming. I love all the pictures.
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#34 |
A guy with a truck
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Germany, for now
Posts: 5,920
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
The 73-87 crossmembers have more meat in the u-bolt area than the 63-72 due to bigger u-bolts bolts and doubled metal. Could be what you're running into...
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-Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy Last edited by gringoloco; 02-06-2012 at 10:48 AM. |
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#35 |
Fun Stuff
![]() Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Sedro Woolley, WA
Posts: 400
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
Stock the wheel is back in the fender opening, so if you get more caster by moving the uca it just makes it worse. moving the lca forward gets it pretty centered, and looks good. I haven't done the mod yet, but I plan to. Thanks for the write up chevyrestoguy.
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Jay 68 C10(project) 88 Honda Accord(DD) 93 Chevy Astro EXT 2wd |
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#36 |
At the body shop.
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Land of fruits and nuts.
Posts: 5,224
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
Thats what im hoping.
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#37 | |
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Location: apple valley, ca
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
Quote:
Originally, I thought the same thing, but I used a crossmember out of a '79 and mine cleared. I moved my LCA fwd .75", but I looked at my pictures again, and my Energy Suspension control arm bushings definitely don't protrude as far as the ones that Hairlesshobo used. Mine clear by at least 1/4".
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#38 |
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Mtn. Home, Idaho
Posts: 906
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
Great write up! Thanks, still following this issue on the several threads!
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#39 |
At the body shop.
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Land of fruits and nuts.
Posts: 5,224
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
I need to crawl around mine. But i have 71/72 LcA's i wonder how fat i can go before i have issues??
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" That didnt make it any newer " " Dont antique the equipment " |
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#40 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 150
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
Well the extra meat could explain it. Just a thought, I wonder if something is bent on my truck. I've only been talking about the driver side. Tomorrow I will measure the clearance of the passenger side.
I do highly recommend that you measure the clearance before taking the control arm out, and if you replace the bushings, make sure to measure how much the outer sleeve sticks out past the arm mount. If the new one sticks out more than the old one, subtract that from your available clearance. Posted via Mobile Device
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Shawty: '84 C10 Silverado SWB, 700r4, SBC 350 - 4 bolt main, bored 60 over w/ Weiand aluminum intake and moderate cam, 2" true dual exhaust, Thrush mufflers, 3.42:1 gears -- Build Thread The Tranny (wrecked ![]() |
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#41 |
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Waxahachie, Texas
Posts: 144
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
Chevyrestoguy, any updates yet?
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#42 |
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![]() Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: apple valley, ca
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
I'm still in the fab phase, so I'm still a little bit away from getting the engine and trans installed. Right now, I'm painting the firewall, and after that, I'll have to restore all of the heater/AC stuff that bolts to it, and get the brake booster installed and all the brake lines bent up. In the meantime, I'm getting the last of the parts to finish the engine.
I did update the build thread to show the latest chassis work we did. In order to gain ground clearance between the lower control arms and the ground, we "Z'd" the chassis 2" and then moved everything forward 1" to center the wheels in the wheel openings. Still doing the last little things on that, like trimming the inner fenders and doing some finish grinding/sanding. After, that, it'll all get blown apart and painted chassis black and reassembled for (hopefully) the last time.
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#43 |
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: washington
Posts: 4,178
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
I have pics of mine located 3 inches forward
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#44 |
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: washington
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
![]() ![]() ![]() Posted via Mobile Device
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377 sbc thumpr cam autogear m23 muncie 3:73 Detroit trutrac 3''spintech prostreet mufflers xpipe 1 3/4 headers build thread !http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=577217 Iroc gauge threadhttp://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=554511 |
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#45 |
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Ruskin Florida
Posts: 4,563
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
Subscribed! Would also like to see what the specs turn out to be. I have also seen someone mention swapping the upper control arms?? Any thoughts on this?
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#46 | |
Fun Stuff
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Location: Sedro Woolley, WA
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
Quote:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=419251 But it would move the wheel back in the opening, where it needs to go forward. This mod would move it forward.
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Jay 68 C10(project) 88 Honda Accord(DD) 93 Chevy Astro EXT 2wd |
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#47 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Lake Havasu City Arizona
Posts: 863
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
What Ball joints you using there bro?
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#48 |
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: San Jose Ca
Posts: 2,871
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
I moved my forward too, a bit differently though:
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#49 |
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 2,932
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
This looks good, I was only able to move mine forward 3/8 inch without modifying my perches or the mount. Until I started I didn't know that there was additional mods needed to move the thing forward. I was not ready to cut into my cross member since I was ready to get back on the road so I only moved it a little. I figured anything would help.
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#50 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: washington
Posts: 4,178
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
Qa1 rebuildable ball joints. Very nice ball joints. Can get different stud lengths to change roll center and camber gain and all that fun stuff.
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