Shucks First Build

[Shucks]

Jet wash
Cam bearings.
Freeze plugs
Deck
Block prep
Press pistons
Reconditioning rods
Balance.
This adds up to the 700

[Jake Wade]

I assume they are supplying the pistons? Balance job and decking included so, not a bad price at all.

Now is the time to figure what heads(combustion chamber size)you will be using so to get the correct style piston.

If you plan on going with a large chamber head(72-76cc) go with flat tops.

Have your machinist take .020 off the block deck while squaring it up at the same time. You want to keep your piston to head clearance less than .050, preferably .040.

Ask him if he uses a torque plate during the boring/honing process.

[Jake Wade]

Here is a good piston choice on a budget.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sl...make/chevrolet

[Shucks]

Unfortunately both of my heads ended up being cracked, but my cousin gave me a set of free heads that'll work.
Well just got everything ordered and was sent to the machine shop. Crank/ Pistons/ rod bolts/ camshaft/ cam bearings/ freeze plugs... shouldn't be too much longer since the blocks been at the shop for about a week.
The crank was delivered to me instead of the machine shop,

Another freebie was this Edelbrock Torker II single plane intake. And that's the completed painted saved parts. The red on the timing color will be the color for the motor.

My 600 Holey came in today.

[Shucks]

Comp XE256 cam

Rollers

And my project when I can't do anything with my truck for awhile.

[TheBlueBomber]

If only I had THAT growing up...

[Shucks]

Originally Posted by TheBlueBomber

If only I had THAT growing up...

Well here's the one my cousin and I had done awhile back. This one was way too narrow and was basically too scary to drive... But I did anyway

[Shucks]

Okay I really don't have an update other than my motor is back from the machine shop. But I have more of a question.
My question is, in what steps should I do the body and frame? I get focused on suspension parts then I remember I have rust I need to patch up on the cab, then I worry about body work. Then I get focused on what to paint the frame with then I remember I haven't done anything about the suspension, ect.... Should I patch the rust then remove the cab to be ready for paint? Or should I be worried about getting the truck driving and safe on the road first? I just want some advice is all.

[Squareforceone]

If i were you i'd get a dual plane intake instead.. Do some research on dual vs single plane intakes. Single is good for the drag strip at higher rpms not so much on the lower end of things on the street.

[Shucks]

I found a shortbed for sale for $500. Are these a direct replacement for a Stepside or does some work need to be done? Also is this a good price? Because not often do you come across shortbeds separate from the truck in good shape. No rust, and is in primer because the guy has done patch work to the bed. I really want to know because I'd like to ditch the stepside.

[TheBlueBomber]

Haven't done it myself but shouldn't be too hard. Might need to move the gas tank and install a harness for the taillights among other things.

[bigblock73]

Nice project, good work so far.

If I were you, I would do the following...

Finish them engine rebuild, get the truck running and driving. Inspect/rebuild the suspension (perhaps drop it at this time), cheap tires/wheels, clean up the interior...and drive it!

I would put the body back together, and keep it a stepside. Enjoy it for a while, then start doing bodywork as you drive it.

Start tearing it apart, and you will likely have it apart for a while, because restos can gt expensive quick....plus you have school to contend with, which is more important.

[Shucks]

You're right. After I posted that and sat and waited I thought of the exact same thing. I get caught up in looking at guys trucks on the forum all torn apart and once its done, they drive it for the first time after a few years...
Thanks for the reply.
The motor is going back together right now (super excited), I found a 700r4 to bolt up to it and then I need to find a new ignition, I bought it without keys...

[Cape Codder]

A lock cylinder with keys shouldn't be much more that 20.00. It's not that difficult to install.

[TheBlueBomber]

Bigblock73 is right. When I was 16 I bought a 79 K5 (which started my square body addiction) and I started tearing into anything and everything. I got so caught up in doing multiple projects that it just sat for a while and I lost interest. I learned from my mistakes and am a lot more calculated in the projects that I do. I'm still learning myself after all these years. Make sure you have fun with it and enjoy every bit of it.

[aggie91]

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # US107LT CHROME FINISH for the lock cylinder. I think is is about $9 on RockAuto.com.

Fairly easy swap. Since you don't have the key, I think you may need to remove the steering wheel, lock plate, and turnsignal switch assembly just to get to it. It is not hard work at all.

I'll see if I can find a written guide for you...

[aggie91]

Here is the repair guide that I found:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...96b43f80cb0c97

If your not a member at AutoZone, its free and offers a lot of good reference material...


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


1973-78 Vehicles

See Figure 1



Fig. Fig. 1: Ignition lock cylinder removal - 1973-78 vehicles

1.Remove steering wheel and turn signal switch.


It is not necessary to completely remove the turn signal switch. Pull the switch over the end of the shaft; no further.

2.Place lock cylinder in RUN position.


Do not remove the ignition key buzzer.

3.Insert a small drift pin into the turn signal housing slot. Keeping the drift pin to the right side of the slot, break the housing flash loose and depress the spring latch at the lower end of the lock cylinder. Remove the lock cylinder.




WARNING
Considerable force may be necessary to break this casting flash, but be careful not to damage any other parts. When ordering a new lock cylinder, specify a cylinder assembly. This will save assembling the cylinder, washer, sleeve and adapter.

To install:

4.Hold the lock cylinder sleeve and rotate the knob clockwise against the stop.
5.Insert the cylinder into the housing, aligning the key and keyway.
6.Hold a 0.070 in. drill between the lock bezel and housing. Rotate the cylinder counterclockwise, maintaining a light pressure until the drive section of the cylinder mates with the sector.
7.Push in until the snapring pops into the grooves. Remove drill. Check cylinder operation.


The drill prevents forcing the lock cylinder inward beyond its normal position. The buzzer switch and spring latch can hold the lock cylinder in too far. Complete disassembly of the upper bearing housing is necessary to release an improperly installed lock cylinder.

1979 Vehicles

See Figure 2



Fig. Fig. 2: Ignition lock cylinder removal and installation - 1979 vehicles

1.Remove the steering wheel, as outlined earlier in this section.
2.Remove the turn signal switch. It is not necessary to completely remove the switch from the column. Pull the switch rearward far enough to slip it over the end of the shaft, but do not pull the harness out of the column.
3.Turn the lock to RUN .
4.Remove the lock retaining screw and remove the lock cylinder.




WARNING
If the retaining screw is dropped on removal, it may fall into the column, requiring complete disassembly of the column to retrieve the screw.


5.To install, rotate the key to the stop while holding onto the cylinder.
6.Push the lock all the way in.
7.Install the screw. Tighten the screw to 3 ft. lbs. (4.1 Nm) for regular columns, or to 2 ft. lbs. (2.7 Nm) for tilt columns.
8.Install the turn signal switch and the steering wheel.

[Shucks]

Thanks for the write up, I got one from advanced, will be putting it in soon.
Got the motor all put together. Truck comes into the shop monday, will get a front end rebuild and cleaned/painted frame, I should have some updates later on in the month, Just trying to keep my thread alive.

[Zane M]

Great progress so far!

I think once you get a chance to drive it, you are going to end up re-thinking the use of the single plane manifold(but I understand free is good).

Single planes aren't as good as a dual plane in the lower RPM ranges for producing torque and HP. Being a street truck with what seems a mildly built engine, it may feel like a dog until you really open it up to higher RPMs.

At any rate, congrats that the engine is together. Hoping you will be driving soon.

[Shucks]

I understand and thank you for the input. But free has gotten the best of me and will use it until I need or want a new one.

[Shucks]

Finally got a guy from work to bring the rollback to my house and get the truck from its grave and bring it into the shop. Snagged a set of free rallies and tires and it already looks 2x better, just gets me more and more motivated to finish it. Last weekend I bought a stepside bed for the truck for 300 bucks. Came with new wood and a tailgate, which I didnt have in the first place. I thought it was a good deal.
So today I got the truck in, put the new wheels and tires on, got the front clip off, and the body mounts off, the cab should come off tomorrow.

I also had to run long tubes because the shorties hit the motor mounts, it was a straight across trade to a guy for the long tubes so I said, "Sure!" Even though they aren't the prettiest things in the world.

Now since its in the shop, updates will come more frequently!

[haybale]

Looking really good. Keep at it and you'll have a killer truck.

[truckfan]

my son goes to LHS and I saw this sitting there this week. very cool. good luck with the build!

[Shucks]

Cool! Thanks man, since I have to stay busy in the class for the grade, a lot will get done hopefully. I need to figure out what to do with the frame once the cab is off. Either wire wheel it at school then paint it there or to take it home and sandblast. Also what paint to use that's cheap yet durable.

[Shucks]

My 79 is looking rather, bare.



What do you guys recommend for a front end rebuild kit and for body mounts?