55.2-59 '59 4x4 Build

[joedoh]

i like your drill press! it just occurs to me I have one too.

[dsraven]

nice thinking outside the box. using whats onhand to get a job done, cool.
you might think about some triangulated shaped (roughly speaking) gussets on the cross member where it meets the "new" part, just for strength. maybe you don't need them but personally I always overbuild, lol.
nice clean looking project and work area. keep posting up pics as you go.

[burnin oil]

Nice work on the crossmember. I just welded a simple box up out of scrap with an open (inside the frame) so I can add tubing later if needed. Ran the bolts all the way through the crossmember, spacer and frame.

Everything is looking good. I would have mocked the body and then done the drivetrain. Each of us do it there own way. Only real reason it to ensure bed fitment on the new frame. I have read the body mounts are a chore with the blazer frame.

[PuzzleTruck]

Thanks, I appreciate the feedback and compliments. I would be honored to hear someone saw my inverted drill press and used that method. My shoulders are blown out from drilling overhead, so I was pressed to find a solution.

My frame is the original 1959, so the body mounts are stock and appear predictable. I only have myself and an engine hoist, so I'm hoping to mount the body to the frame one time only.

I don't have a set order of operations, just taking whatever looks like the next item and tackling it. I think after the driveline is squared away, I will go to fuel system, brakes, etc., before the body goes on. Then it's time for the bodywork and paint. Oh boy.

[burnin oil]

Sorry for the frame confusion. I had to drill out a ton of rivets myself and it sucked. 3 sets of drill bits later. As for the jack method you use. Nice work. I own a mag drill and couldn't use it on the bottom of the frame. A good low speed drill helps as does alot of cutting oil. Keep up the good work! Waiting to see how she comes out.

[PuzzleTruck]

After some research on the square body forums, it appears GM dropped the frame mounted T case torque mount assembly in the 70s due to cracking issues and went to a rod between the T case and one of the bell housing to block bolts. I found some pics of one and made a replica. This was a Corvair steering shaft, alternator bracket and hood hinge in a previous life. I think it came out ok, but time will tell. It makes sense to me in theory that it’s better not tugging on the frame in that area, but reinforced as a unit.
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[PuzzleTruck]

file:///var/mobile/Library/SMS/Attachments/41/01/C1B4B8EB-801E-4888-8259-C28ADB156FEA/IMG_8024.HEIC
Posted via Mobile Device

[PuzzleTruck]

Originally Posted by PuzzleTruck

file:///var/mobile/Library/SMS/Attachments/41/01/C1B4B8EB-801E-4888-8259-C28ADB156FEA/IMG_8024.HEIC
Posted via Mobile Device

Looks like the link didn’t work. I’m in Hawaii with just my phone, so I guess I’ll have to send pics when I get back.
Posted via Mobile Device

[PuzzleTruck]

Originally Posted by PuzzleTruck

After some research on the square body forums, it appears GM dropped the frame mounted T case torque mount assembly in the 70s due to cracking issues and went to a rod between the T case and one of the bell housing to block bolts. I found some pics of one and made a replica. This was a Corvair steering shaft, alternator bracket and hood hinge in a previous life. I think it came out ok, but time will tell. It makes sense to me in theory that it’s better not tugging on the frame in that area, but reinforced as a unit.
Posted via Mobile Device

And now the pictures to go with...

[PuzzleTruck]

After some time off due to lower back pain, I'm once again working on the Puzzle. Recently, I looked at where the 25 gal. K5 Blazer fuel tank would go. I initially thought just ahead of the rear diff, but found my suspension travel would be limited, so I moved the rear crossmember to the end of the frame rails and worked from there. The next crossmember, just behind the rear axle, had to be moved forward to provide enough room. Then I had to ensure the filler tube would not interfere with the bed cross support, which moved it forward a little more. I removed the old shock top mounts as they would hit the bed in their higher location over the rear axle.

[PuzzleTruck]

The tank has a hump in the middle, so I had to cut away some of the bed support cross brace to clear that. I welded the cutout pieces back onto the sides of it to maintain rigidity.
I used the original Blazer fuel tank support straps and reconditioned them. I found a slab of heavy rubber along side the road while walking my dog, and it's the perfect material for the anti-rattle pads. I cut pieces for the straps, and made cross braces for the top of the tank to hold it from shifting, and riveted some rubber onto those. It all worked out pretty well. My fuel filler will be on the right rear fender behind the wheel. I think I'm going to use a simple stainless surface-mounted cap, like the original tank had on the side of the cab.

[PuzzleTruck]

Yesterday I mounted the radiator support and radiator to see what clearance I would have to the water pump pulley. Not enough. So I decided to move the engine and trans back 2-1/4 inches where the most aft set of holes is on my LS adapter plates. It also lines up with the first location I had determined for the T-case cross support, which means I won't need to modify the front drive shaft (See post #25)! I may need to modify the firewall for clearance on the right engine head, but I'll deal with that when I get there.

[dsraven]

how about a dual electric fan set up so the fan motors are offset from the water pump shaft. thats what I had planned to do on my 57 before I did a frame swap. the other thing I wondered about is if the rad could be paced in front of the rad support. I built a new rad support for my frame swapped truck and made the hole big enough so the rad could slip right through. I just used square tubing for the upper and lower bar, some 16ga pnels on the sides

[dsraven]

if you go for plan B you may be able to grab a rad with fans from a wreck and fit it in there, good for whatever engine you are running. check the bellavista pirate 4x4 site for a "cooling bible" for LS engines, they are a different cat than the old small block style cooling systems.

[6DoF]

really like the rad support, well played

[PuzzleTruck]

I found the difference was 1”, so I moved the support back and cut the fan shaft off the water pump pulley. This gave me 1/4” space to the electric fan motor. I went with a Jegs single speed. I was hoping to use a two speed fan I pulled from a Ford Taurus, but it sticks out too far. Thanks for the LS cooling link. I’ll look it up. Always good to learn more.
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[PuzzleTruck]

Wow, it's been over a month since I posted here. I owe you guys who've been helping and following this build an update. I've been busy, both on the truck and doing odd jobs to pay for it.

The radiator and fan worked out great once I cut the excess off the water pump shaft.

I hate the paint removal, but it had to be done. I started with the tailgate, using sanding discs and blocks. Well, that didn't really work so I tried the surface conditioning tool from HF. That thing did almost all the work for me!

[PuzzleTruck]

Before getting into the body work I did some odd stuff, like the rear axle spring mounts. I cut off the stabilizer bar mounts and removed the temporary spring perches, used to get the pinion angle correct. I had a new driveshaft made with both transfer case and pinion yokes. I blasted and powder coated the front and rear differential covers, and made an inner front fender mount, as one was missing. Replaced cut out sheet metal around the radio bezel to original, and bought a retro AM/FM radio with Bluetooth to go in later.

[PuzzleTruck]

More body and paint pics. I'm doing a carport paint job because that's the space I have where I can paint. Started with epoxy primer on the hood and rear fenders and steps. I hung plastic sheeting around the area the keep the wind and debris out, but found it was a real pain because it was blowing like a sail and made it really difficult to move around. So when I got to the bed side panels and tailgate the next day I just got started a little earlier and painted before the wind was too strong. Overall, they came out pretty good. I still have to sand the doors and cab (inside and out). I'm buying new front fenders, so they will be easier. I am SOOOO looking forward to when all the paint is done and I can start assembling.

[PuzzleTruck]

My next door neighbor saw me the other day and asked what all the banging was! I told him I was almost done. HA! Well, soon anyway.

[dsraven]

good forward motion. keep plugging away and you will be done before you know it.
since it is a 4x4 I would recommend to go back and reshape the brake line over the rear axle so it doesn't get snagged by a random stick or whatever. on 4x4 trucks I usually try to keep the brake line close to the shape of the diff cover and sort of kept tied down right on the outer edge of the cover. that means anything you drive over that could snag the brake line doesn't get a chance because the diff housing pushes the brush or whatever out of the way first, like a shield. when backing up it works sort of the same. that way the only thing out in the open is the flex line from the frame down and there is no hiding that.

[dsraven]

man, those front fenders look good. mine, not so much. kind of a long commute for me though, lol.

[PuzzleTruck]

Good point about the rear brake line, DS Raven. I wasn't happy with the result after bending it anyway, so I was already thinking of redoing it. Now I have more reason to do so. The other thing is, I have the coiled protection cover on the original rear brake line and since I forgot to slide it on before flaring both ends. Now's my chance to correct it.

[dsraven]

Sometimes I use those rubber coated clamps with the bolt hole through them. They fully encircle the tube but provide an insulated protection against the brake line tube. I bolt that to a diff cover bolt with a short stack of flat washers as a spacer for the clamp to stand off enough to clear the lip on the diff cover edge. That keeps the tube close to the shape of the diff cover so stuff can't snag the line so easily.

[PuzzleTruck]

Some progress lately. Covered epoxy primered parts with gray high build primer. Got the cab set on the frame. Bought aftermarket front fenders, only to find out they don’t fit. I tried a second vendor and they were from the same source in Taiwan with a different label on the box. I foolishly sold my original fenders before trying new ones. I’m currently looking for a pair of good originals. I found a right one in rough but salvageable condition, but would rather find better ones.