71 C10 rebuild 2.0

[RyanB]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

nice build

Thanks. It can be frustrating because I want to move faster, but a friend reminded me to "enjoy the journey."

[RyanB]

Oh no - they're multiplying!


I hadn't located a transmission to mock up my mounts and driveline. My buddy MShip let me borrow his newly acquired 6.0/4L60e. Hope to get some time this weekend to set it in.

[Hart_Rod]

Clean build.

[RedRider]

Awesome project, it seems every time you linger on it though, something better comes around. Keep up the good work, I'm excited to see this thing come together.

[RyanB]

I bet I am the ONLY one who reads through other builds and says "hey, I think I'll undo half of every thing I've done 'cause that looks ____ (cooler, faster, lighter, stronger...)"

[RyanB]

Today I set the mockup 6.0/4L60e into the frame using the original big block towers and Dirty Dingo sliders. I haven't built or bought a tranny x-member yet, so it's sitting on the original. It doesn't feel right - I put 2" block under the back of the tranny and it still seems to be too much of an angle. Even with that block the back end is angled 4.5 deg




Thought the motor was sitting a little high, but maybe not that much.





I guess I'll go sit on the mower and think for awhile.

[Jason7121]

Mine is set up at 5 degrees down I think they do it like that so the Drive Line clears the center crossmember.

[RyanB]

I ordered the ECE mounts for two reasons. I would like to leave the AC where it's at (low) and it looks like they may sit a little lower. Looking at the pics on their site I was pretty convinced the towers that were on the frame I bought were from ECE. But the ones I got are different. It doesn't bother me, here are the two side by side:

Here are the complete ECE setups.


Set the motor in, won't quite clear both the alternator and the AC. Probably trim the frame a bit.

[RyanB]

Also got some Doug Thorley headers this week. They are very nice and fit awesome.

[RyanB]

Well, I haven’t posted in a while, but the project has been progressing. I decided to go for disc brakes on the back.


I started with these, but don’t like the e-brakes. So......



I like these a lot better.

[RyanB]

I wanted to get the shock mounts as wide as possible, so had to cut a slight notch for the brake mount.

[RyanB]

I didn’t want to run cables and really didn’t like the spring setup on them.

[RyanB]

After I got everything welded up, took it all apart and had it blasted. Then gave it n acid etch, two coats of MasterCoat Permanent Rust Sealer, then two coats of AG 111.

[RyanB]

I decided to go with the MasterCoat over powder coating due to concerns about future mods or changes. Quick Tip - they sell a Special Chassis kit that includes quart each of primer and AG111 and solvent. They suggest 2 coats of each. One quart was just about enough for one coat on the frame and front cross member. Also, they sell a satin and a gloss black. The satin was more glossy than I expected.

[RedRider]

Looks great, that AG111 turned out nice! Makes me wonder how flat the gloss black would've been.

[cornerstone]

Looks really nice! Back to the rear e brake thing... if you don’t want to run the cable how will you have an e brake?

[RyanB]

I am going with a 4l80e, can’t remember the last time I used an e-brake, even on my manual tran cars.

[RyanB]

Last week I started putting new bearings, rotors and seals on the front.


But I discovered a problem (the hard way). The lowering spindles I got with the other frame I bought are for 1” thick rotors. Looking at everything else I had on hand, I decide to buy a package from CPP with new spindles, rotors, calipers bearings and seals. Should be here next week...look for a new freshly painted set of spindles for sale.

[RyanB]

I gutted the rear end (open) and put in a new Eaton posi, 3.73 gears,and Moser axles. Can’t find the pics of that process, but here it is in place.

[RedRider]

That kinda stuff is why you keep a bottle of Jim Beam in your tool chest.