Bummed Out!

[Libertad]

Originally Posted by sailed2japan

I suggest checking with a couple local machine shops and seeing what they get for a SBC before you buy a crae motor. I found a place hear in austin that would sell a rebuilt long block w/ a 36k warrantee for $2000.

I will check on some local shops, just have to find some old school motor heads around here that actually know what their doing.

Ok here are some more pics. I took the valve covers off and they had water in their but nothing seems to be damaged in their that I can see (although I have minimal knowledge on motors) and one of the valve cover gaskets were torn.

[Libertad]

Took off the intake manifold and everything looks clean, again some water:

[Libertad]

Can anyone tell me what type of intake this is?? Is it stock oem? Does it look in decent shape? I'm thinking of getting an edlebrock intake to match my 1406 carb.

[Libertad]

Ready to take off heads. Any tips on what to do after removing all the head bolts? Do the rods need to come out (never done this before) or do I just use a rubber mallet to break the seal?

[Libertad]

Here is a pic of spark plugs. Can u tell me anything by looking at them?





My truck bed is now storage:

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Libertad

Can anyone tell me what type of intake this is?? Is it stock oem? Does it look in decent shape? I'm thinking of getting an edlebrock intake to match my 1406 carb.

That is the stock 70's & early 80's cast iron intake. It works OK for a stock intake but it weighs a ton.

A Performer would be a nice upgrade though.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Libertad

Ready to take off heads. Any tips on what to do after removing all the head bolts? Do the rods need to come out (never done this before) or do I just use a rubber mallet to break the seal?

Since you are tearing it apart for curiosity only you can keep the rockers and pushrods in place and just take out all the head bolts. This will use the spring pressure to lift the heads off the block and save you a ton of time backing all the rocker arms off.

[Libertad]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

That is the stock 70's & early 80's cast iron intake. It works OK for a stock intake but it weighs a ton.

A Performer would be a nice upgrade though.

Thanks.......yeah I think it weighs more like a ton and a half... What do you think it is worth if I were to sell it?


By the way where do I look to find out if this is the stock motor or if not what year it came out of?


Thanks to all that have given me advice and please keep the comments coming, they really keep me going in the right direction. Much appreciated!

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Libertad

Thanks.......yeah I think it weighs more like a ton and a half... What do you think it is worth if I were to sell it?

Depends. What is the going rate for scrap iron?

Nobody would likely buy it from you for any more than a couple bucks.

[Libertad]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

Since you are tearing it apart for curiosity only you can keep the rockers and pushrods in place and just take out all the head bolts. This will use the spring pressure to lift the heads off the block and save you a ton of time backing all the rocker arms off.

I removed all the head bolts and it seems pretty well on there should I tap it with a rubber mallet?

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Libertad

By the way where do I look to find out if this is the stock motor or if not what year it came out of?

There is a pad at the front of the block at cylinder head gasket level on the passenger side that will have two sets of number / letters stamped into it.

The larger set is the assembly plant ID code and application ID code and the smaller set is the partial VIN number from the vehicle it came out of.

There is a set of numbers cast into the top of the bell housing flange on the driver side that will tell you what the block is and what year range it was produced. Opposite side of the bell housing flange is the casting date. A single letter and a couple numbers. Month A is January and so on with the double digit day of the month and a single digit year.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Libertad

I removed all the head bolts and it seems pretty well on there should I tap it with a rubber mallet?

There are a couple shorter bolts on each end under the valve cover area that can be covered with oil and can easily be out of sight.

[Libertad]

Only saw these on the pad on the front passenger side of block
VO2 19UA

Thanks for your time 68TT

[old Rusty C10]

Libertad you must be a subscribing member to ask a WIW or list a WTB. Please review site rules

[Libertad]

Originally Posted by old Rusty C10

Libertad you must be a subscribing member to ask a WIW or list a WTB. Please review site rules

Sorry old rusty. Just for that I am going to subscribe right now.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Libertad

I got those two bolts out as well. Should the heads be easy to pull off or are they usually stuck on there pretty good?

Only saw these on the pad on the front passenger side of block
VO2 19UA

Thanks for your time 68TT

They can be stuck on there pretty good. I had to use a long pry bar to break mine loose after 30 years on the engine. I was afraid I was going to break the head casting I had to pry so hard.

With only two letters at the end of the code shows it is a 1969 & earlier block.

1970 & newer had three letter codes. Make sure there isn't one more letter there. All the UA_ three letter code engines are 1981 vintage 305's that came in half ton trucks.

A UA code small block is a 1969 truck 200 hp 2-bolt main 307 cubic inch motor.

Put a tape measure on the cylinder bore and let me know what it shows. A 307 has a 3-7/8" bore so it should be obvious that it is not a 4.00" bore like a 350 or 327. A 305 is just under 3-3/4" bore.

Either UA code engine is not worth the effort to rebuild it when damaged.

[Libertad]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

They can be stuck on there pretty good. I had to use a long pry bar to break mine loose after 30 years on the engine. I was afraid I was going to break the head casting I had to pry so hard.

With only two letters at the end of the code shows it is a 1969 & earlier block.

1970 & newer had three letter codes. Make sure there isn't one more letter there. All the UA_ three letter code engines are 1981 vintage 305's that came in half ton trucks.

A UA code small block is a 1969 truck 200 hp 2-bolt main 307 cubic inch motor.

Put a tape measure on the cylinder bore and let me know what it shows. A 307 has a 3-7/8" bore so it should be obvious that it is not a 4.00" bore like a 350 or 327. A 305 is just under 3-3/4" bore.

Either UA code engine is not worth the effort to rebuild it when damaged.

I will let you know the bore once I get the heads off but it does seem to be a 307 engine, #'s by the bell housing are 3956632 probably made in 1969.

[Libertad]

Ok another question I have 882 heads are these heads any good? I may want to put them onto a 350 short block when I find one.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Libertad

Ok another question I have 882 heads are these heads any good? I may want to put them onto a 350 short block when I find one.

333882's are probably the original heads to the truck. Nothing fancy but they will work to make decent power maxing out at about 330 to 340 hp.

Low compression with flat to pistons and they are unleaded compatible unlike the heads that came on that 307.

[Libertad]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

They can be stuck on there pretty good. I had to use a long pry bar to break mine loose after 30 years on the engine. I was afraid I was going to break the head casting I had to pry so hard.

With only two letters at the end of the code shows it is a 1969 & earlier block.

1970 & newer had three letter codes. Make sure there isn't one more letter there. All the UA_ three letter code engines are 1981 vintage 305's that came in half ton trucks.

A UA code small block is a 1969 truck 200 hp 2-bolt main 307 cubic inch motor.

Put a tape measure on the cylinder bore and let me know what it shows. A 307 has a 3-7/8" bore so it should be obvious that it is not a 4.00" bore like a 350 or 327. A 305 is just under 3-3/4" bore.

Either UA code engine is not worth the effort to rebuild it when damaged.

Definitely 3 7/8" Thanks for your help. Will post more pics when I pull this thing.

[Libertad]

I may buy one of these 350 blocks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMITlGfDI48

The first block has the 010 & 020 under the timing chain cover. I'm pretty sure it has been rebuilt one time at .030. This casting is the strongest block Chevy made in the Gen 1 version of their 350 (my opinion). The date code is D281 and the front engine code is V0504TBA. I am selling this one for $300. If I was running this on the street, I would probably hone it, build it, and run it. There is absolutely no ridge at the top of the cylinder wall and it looks awesome.

The second block does not have the 010 / 020 under the timing chain cover. However, it is a standard bore. (It does have 010 under the front cover.) The date code on this one is G217 and the front engine code is V0727TYY. I am selling this block for $325.

any thoughts?

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Libertad

I may buy one of these 350 blocks any thoughts?

Depends on what you want to do with the truck.

What kind of power are you looking to build?

[Libertad]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

Depends on what you want to do with the truck.

What kind of power are you looking to build?

reliable daily driver with mild cam

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Libertad

reliable daily driver with mild cam

You don't need to spend that kind of money on a bare block then. Only somebody pushing the limits of a stock block needs to find the 010 / 020 block.

Go to the local pull-it-yourself wrecking yard and find a 1973 to 1985 vintage 3/4-ton truck. Most had 4-bolt 350's with unleaded compatible heads. Some even came with steel cranks. My local one sells complete engines for $140 plus tax. The core charge for a remanufactured short block is twice that and you will get a whole set of spare accessories too.

Look for one that has been hit and you will probably find a decent running engine that may not need much if any machine work to freshen it up.

I would pull the oil pan at the yard and make sure there is noting obviously wrong with it and that the engine turns over freely by turning the balancer bolt. If it all looks good I would take it home and tear it down the rest of the way to make sure it doesn't need machine work. If it needs major work take it back and get another one.

My yard frowns upon you tearing engines apart in the yard that you are getting as an assembly and wants you to take only what was on that engine but you can mix & match parts if you want. If they say something I tell them I was only going to get the heads but after taking them off I decided to get the whole engine.

When you get a block with little to no ridge on the bores and a smooth crank you can just freshen it up with rings, bearings, gaskets, a timing set, oil pump and all steel oil pump drive shaft and a mild cam. Put new valve springs and silicone umbrella style valve stem seals into the heads and you are good to go for a street motor.

The Comp Cams 260H cam grind #12-206-2 is what I ran in my 81 K20 truck with a Performer intake and it made great low end power and had great mid range too. Perfect for a daily driver truck.

[Libertad]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

You don't need to spend that kind of money on a bare block then. Only somebody pushing the limits of a stock block needs to find the 010 / 020 block.

Go to the local pull-it-yourself wrecking yard and find a 1973 to 1985 vintage 3/4-ton truck. Most had 4-bolt 350's with unleaded compatible heads. Some even came with steel cranks. My local one sells complete engines for $140 plus tax. The core charge for a remanufactured short block is twice that and you will get a whole set of spare accessories too.

Look for one that has been hit and you will probably find a decent running engine that may not need much if any machine work to freshen it up.

I would pull the oil pan at the yard and make sure there is noting obviously wrong with it and that the engine turns over freely by turning the balancer bolt. If it all looks good I would take it home and tear it down the rest of the way to make sure it doesn't need machine work. If it needs major work take it back and get another one.

My yard frowns upon you tearing engines apart in the yard that you are getting as an assembly and wants you to take only what was on that engine but you can mix & match parts if you want. If they say something I tell them I was only going to get the heads but after taking them off I decided to get the whole engine.

When you get a block with little to no ridge on the bores and a smooth crank you can just freshen it up with rings, bearings, gaskets, a timing set, oil pump and all steel oil pump drive shaft and a mild cam. Put new valve springs and silicone umbrella style valve stem seals into the heads and you are good to go for a street motor.

The Comp Cams 260H cam grind #12-206-2 is what I ran in my 81 K20 truck with a Performer intake and it made great low end power and had great mid range too. Perfect for a daily driver truck.

Thanks 68 sounds like a plan. I called my local pick a part and they said they sell complete 350's for $600 but that is for one that is pulled already. They give a 100 day warranty. I will have to call and see what the price is if I pull my own.

I guess i fell in love with the pretty block and the fact that it was checked for cracks and all but what your saying makes a lot of sense and very price contious.