My 1967 Build (Finally)

[KyleSeal]

Took a break from working on the cab and replaced the emergency brake cables, front and rear. Heard the Delco parts were better, I had some aftermarkets on the truck that just absolutely sucked.



Fitment of these emergency brake cables is not so great when adding to the aftermarket rear control arms (React Suspension arms, seem to be a universal problem for all tubular aftermarket arms though), so I had to grind open the mounting 'seat' for the retaining clip.



I was also advised to remove about 5-6 coils from the cable to make sure it doesn't bunch up in the drum and cause issues.

[KyleSeal]

Some beginning to rust repair.

[KyleSeal]

Well, now I have more space! Sold the frame yesterday. I was for sure needing the room to breathe in this garage.

[KyleSeal]

Couple updates from the last few weekends.

Cleaned up the firewall, found some of the original wax markings, kind of cool. Will probably clean up more and clear coat.

[KyleSeal]

Working on getting the most important panels fitted, inner rocker and outer rocker, to make sure I'm on the right track. Then once I've anchored those down Ill move outwards on the supports and such. Also got the new control arms installed, adjustable, so I'll need to adjust those back another 1.5"

[KyleSeal]

Update. Got the front passenger cab support located and installed, installed floor pan and have it all stitched up, just need to finish making the flange for the firewall section, as those older floor pan patches are kind of... poor. Working currently on the A-pillar patch and kick panel piece. Trying to get it all centered and working well with the rocker and such, so that the door gap looks OK.

[KyleSeal]

Also wanted to show the new KeyParts stampings they have of these floor pans. The passenger side I used an old TriPlus pan as it was available locally and I needed it quickly. Boy does this new driver's side pan look amazing. Firewall flange, throttle pedal provision, inner rocker portion and drain are there and the hole for the body bolt looks spot on (usually have to clock them).



Removing the old rear cab support (entire piece), I had to remove these rear cab wall brackets / supports, 12 spot welds, but as per GM quality in the late 60s I just had to remove a few and pop the others off.
Wow!

[LostChord]

Great build progress...thanks for sharing!

[KyleSeal]

Thank you. Long time coming. Hoping to have it driving by Summertime. We will see!

Originally Posted by LostChord

Great build progress...thanks for sharing!

[KyleSeal]

Getting the A pillar all set, I didn't quite like the new patches they make for these, the lower fender mount provision always seems to be weak or off center on these, so I utilized the original one. Kick panel prepped. Installed the fender to check on gaps, all looks very good.











Also, just to note, the reason I post so many photos with my posts, is for reference. A lot of these boards are kind of dying out, and the information is kind of thinner being photo servers are gone, and other reasons. So I post these for those learning who want to fix theirs and use my photos for reference.

[KyleSeal]

Before I install everything, I'm going through doing the Eastwood prep stuff, internal cavity / frame coating on pillars, supports, inner rockers etc., and while I waited to dry I visited a local junk yard that has a few 67-72's, this 67 GMC was rather clean, grabbed some stuff off it for the heck of it.

[67km1590]

[QUOTE=KyleSeal;9074547]Before I install everything, I'm going through doing the Eastwood prep stuff, internal cavity / frame coating on pillars, supports, inner rockers etc., and while I waited to dry I visited a local junk yard that has a few 67-72's, this 67 GMC was rather clean, grabbed some stuff off it for the heck of it.

The GMC wasn't a 4X4 by any chance? I see it's a V6 and I'm looking for some engine mount parts that are 4X4 only.

[KyleSeal]

Originally Posted by 67km1590

The GMC wasn't a 4X4 by any chance? I see it's a V6 and I'm looking for some engine mount parts that are 4X4 only.

It was not fortunately. I say fortunately because the next day I went to grab some other stuff it was flatter than the heel on my cowboy boots. I knew that junkyard pretty well front to back, no 4x4 67-72s that I was aware of.

[67km1590]

Thanks for the reply, I'm building a '67 KM 1500 truck back all original and I'm missing the V6 engine mount stands. Your truck is coming along really nice, I've been following since my cab needs the same areas repaired as yours but will need a complete floor pan.

[OneOffStroker]

Great build so far! I'm right down the road in Virginia Beach and have a pretty cool '72 that I've been building. (Post-build thread to come soon, but you can watch it on my YouTube now - channel: "Tiny Garage Fabrication")

I dig the 4Runners! I'm a Toyota fanatic myself. Just sold my 3rd Gen ('98) to my ex, but I've got six vintage Toyotas from the 80's ('83 & '85 Celicas, '85 Van, '87 Hilux, '87 MR2, and '89 Camry AllTrac)

[KyleSeal]

Originally Posted by OneOffStroker

Great build so far! I'm right down the road in Virginia Beach and have a pretty cool '72 that I've been building. (Post-build thread to come soon, but you can watch it on my YouTube now - channel: "Tiny Garage Fabrication")

I dig the 4Runners! I'm a Toyota fanatic myself. Just sold my 3rd Gen ('98) to my ex, but I've got six vintage Toyotas from the 80's ('83 & '85 Celicas, '85 Van, '87 Hilux, '87 MR2, and '89 Camry AllTrac)

Sweet man, thank you! Ive seen some of your videos on YouTube, looks like yours is coming along as well. Hopefully Ill see you at some shows once we've got these projects wrapped up!

[KyleSeal]

Moving sloooowwwww this past weekend, but slow is good when working with sensitive gaps and pieces. Burned in the kick panel spot welds, with some of my favorite rosette welds (just to be covered up ), and then got the square nuts burned into the a-pillar piece and burned in the a-pillar fully. Moved onto the b-pillar piece (really nicely re-stamped by KeyParts if I may add), and neutralizing the rust in the cab corner's inside. While I waited for the phosphoric acid to do its work I ground down most of the welds on the inner rocker. I would imagine this week I will have the outer rocker fit, primered and welded in place.

[KyleSeal]

Just went home on lunch to check on the cab corner to see how the phospho was working on the rust in the corner, and its really cleaned it well. Will be primering this tonight and pressing forward. Once this is done I will get the rear of the cab corner replaced, and paint matched. Had a local shop match the faded paint and set me up with a few rattle cans. Will have pictures of everything further hopefully by this weekend.

[OneOffStroker]

Just wanted to mention real quick about your transmission choice and some things that go with it: with the 4L60 (700R-4) it is essential to have the TV cable adjusted PERFECTLY or you will turn the insides of the trans to silly putty within the first few miles. Spend the extra money to get a factory-style cable with the ratchet action and the reset button...the Lokar style cables are nice, but difficult to adjust correctly. The other option is to buy a constant-pressure valve body from TCI that ensures the trans will survive if the cable comes out of adjustment.

Finally, with your choice to go to a 30" tire to fill the fender gap better, you may only spin like 1600ish at 65mph (assuming your rear gear is the fairly standard 3.08 that these trucks came with.) That sounds good and all, but I can tell you from experience with my '69 Suburban 5.3LS/4L60E/3.08/31" tire it got absolutely terrible MPG on the highway. I figured that low revs would get better mileage, but it turns out I was quite wrong. A mild V8 will get best mileage at efficient torque, and that is ~2300rpm. So I'd recommend getting a 4.11 gearset (~2200rpm @ 65mph) or keeping the 3.08 and driving in 3rd gear, not overdrive (~2300rpm)

[KyleSeal]

Originally Posted by OneOffStroker

Just wanted to mention real quick about your transmission choice and some things that go with it: with the 4L60 (700R-4) it is essential to have the TV cable adjusted PERFECTLY or you will turn the insides of the trans to silly putty within the first few miles. Spend the extra money to get a factory-style cable with the ratchet action and the reset button...the Lokar style cables are nice, but difficult to adjust correctly. The other option is to buy a constant-pressure valve body from TCI that ensures the trans will survive if the cable comes out of adjustment.

Finally, with your choice to go to a 30" tire to fill the fender gap better, you may only spin like 1600ish at 65mph (assuming your rear gear is the fairly standard 3.08 that these trucks came with.) That sounds good and all, but I can tell you from experience with my '69 Suburban 5.3LS/4L60E/3.08/31" tire it got absolutely terrible MPG on the highway. I figured that low revs would get better mileage, but it turns out I was quite wrong. A mild V8 will get best mileage at efficient torque, and that is ~2300rpm. So I'd recommend getting a 4.11 gearset (~2200rpm @ 65mph) or keeping the 3.08 and driving in 3rd gear, not overdrive (~2300rpm)

Very good information. I ordered a ratchet style "OE" one from Summit that seems to be good quality, and will more than likely have a few of my buddies more familiar with the 700's help me set the correct adjustment.

As to the tires and the gearing, I appreciate the info - I am currently at a 3.73 gear, so guesstimation tells me ~2000 RPM or so? Im curious how this gearing would work out, but I suppose if its not deep enough of a gear then I can always just swap it out. Kind of would like an excuse for a LS or posi.

[KyleSeal]

Closing in on the passenger side repairs. Had to make some adjustments as normal, everything lines up well, will post more in depth photos as I close in. The aftermarket cab corners are OK - if you're replacing most of it. If not, the bottom edges of the cab corner are miles off. I ended up taking my old cut off one and just cutting out the rot, blasting the inside and using the flat section of the cab corner to fill the void. Also cut out the rear floor pan section. Seems to line up well there, minimal shaping needed. Will post more photos when I get back to it this week.

Went to a Koe Wetzel concert Saturday night, was good to get out of the shop and around some friends to have a good weekend night.

[Chevys4life]

Subscribed!!!

[KyleSeal]

Test fitting the inner rear floor pan / skin on the passenger side, fits really well, as compared to the new rear cab crossmember, it fits as expected. Some holes are off a tad, but I can modify that and cover with carpet. Once I have this panel prepped properly I'll get it burned in.

[KyleSeal]

Once I got the inner rear floor structure set, I cleaned up the cab corner. Man, did this fight me. The old skin was dented and bent, and I didn't care too much to straighten it as this is just a patina truck and will be driven a lot. But the amount of pin holes, blow through, all kinds of headache. But finally got it in, cleaned up and got the inside rather cleaned up (wearing my heart on my sleeve showing those welds) and will seam seal that all up so it has better longevity. I normally use the Eastwood High Solids black. Haven't had a problem with it. Once cleaned up I did the normal U-Pol #8 Acid Etch primer.

[72 tigger]

Great craftsmanship! Looking good