'50 5 window.....s10 swap

[BlueJeep]

Looks good. How high did your cab end up being off the frame and what size are your front tires to get 8" at the bottom of the front fenders?

[rhodog77]

BlueJeep,

Not sure what the final cab hieght is. I will measure tomorrow and post. I must have measured 30 different ways, 30 different times to get it all lined up. Will probably do things differently on the next build but this one turned out really good.

[50adrod]

how does the rear of the cab mount? does it still use the shackles or do you use the S-10 mounts?

[jeffs51chevy]

nice work. Your project is heading in the right direction. Let me know if I can help with anything.

Jeff

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by rhodog77

BlueJeep,

I must have measured 30 different ways, 30 different times to get it all lined up. Will probably do things differently on the next build but this one turned out really good.

[/IMG]

I did the same thing on mine. I ended up 3.5" up from the frame for the front mounts, and then leveled it and did the back mounts. The 3.5" on mine included the Jeep CJ poly bushings I used. I ended up tacking it all together, and then pulling the cab off and checking/adjusting from there. I'm happy with how mine turned out, just need time to finish it now.

[rhodog77]

BlueJeep,
I measured the cab height today. Im 5 inches off the frame both front and back. Thats including the spacers I have. Im sure that the front end will end up being about 6 inches off the ground once I have the motor and tranny in. The tires that are on the truck are 245/60/15s. Not sure what tire and rim size I will end up with.

50adrod,
I cut the old shackles out and used the s10 spacers and bushings. Its the second pix in my last post. There are two sets of mounting holes inside the cab just behind the bench seat brace. I drilled out the inside hole to match the bushing bolt (1/2 inch) added a small piece of steel for strength and bolted thru the cab floor,thru the spacers and thru the cab mounts. I will take some pix and will post.

Jeff,
Thanks for encouragement. Your cab mount design worked perfect. I would highly reccommend everyone to use them before dumping a bunch of money in the AD or EZ Kits. The new s10 bushings from jegs were well worth the money.

[BlueJeep]

For those who are still doing their research I will add that mine is 3.5" from the top of the frame to the bottom of the floor reinforcement channel at the front mounts. Makes about 1" or so of difference when talking about "how high above the frame". Rhodog, is that how you were measuring yours too?

Was the spacer to get you out of the U-channel that the shackle mounted in? With the poly bushings I used (2" outside diameter), I had to make a 1/2" thick spacer to get the bushing down to where the U-channel wouldn't rest on the frame outrigger. With your S10 bushings being larger diameter than that, I'd assume you had to space yours down even more.

I have 235/75R15's (28" tall) on mine for now, and it's about 9" at the back of the front fender. I'll likely step down to a 215/75R15 on the front when it's closer to being done.

[rhodog77]

BlueJeep,

I actually cut my mounting channel out. It didnt like how the spacer bushing sat in the channel. I dont think that I lost any strength by cutting out the channel. I mounted the cab down thru the inside hole.

[nickp51chevy]

If I were you I would reinforce that channel where you cut out with something. Maybe weld in a piece of channel flat side down in. Even just piece of 1/4" plate. Just something to think about.

[50adrod]

Originally Posted by nickp51chevy

If I were you I would reinforce that channel where you cut out with something. Maybe weld in a piece of channel flat side down in. Even just piece of 1/4" plate. Just something to think about.

I agree, the only thing supporting the rear of the cab is the floorboard, seems like in time with bumps from the road it will bend and the rear of the cab will start to sag.

[c10addict]

Originally Posted by Slowlearn

I understand that the swap requires spacers for the front wheels to be at proper width. Anyone have a solution that doesn't use spacers or wheel offsets?

Spacers are not legal in my state.

They do not look bad without spacers... And depending on how low you are there is more clearance for the tires..

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by c10addict

They do not look bad without spacers... And depending on how low you are there is more clearance for the tires..

Agreed. Mine is sitting on the stock steel s10 wheels w/o spacers and I don't mind how it looks at all. Plenty of room to turn.

rhodog...I think you're going to want to brace it up somehow. I do think that you cut out what would ordinarily support the weight of the rear pillars, the back wall, the seat and all occupants, and probably half the weight of the doors. You could get creative and put the new brace on the top side of the floor back where the gas tank used to sit. I think a piece of 1x2 tube the whole width of the cab stitched in would work well.

[nickp51chevy]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

a piece of 1x2 tube the whole width of the cab stitched in would work well.

That's a good idea. No one will see it and you won't lose the height you want.

[kustombrad]

I'm liking all the work you've done on this thing! You've kept it simple, inexpensive and clean. Very nice!

[rhodog77]

Hey guys,

Thanks for the tips and advice. I was looking at the EZ chassis swap kit. Looks like they have a rear cab brace support as a part of their kit. I will probably run a 1/4 inch steel support bar from one mount to the other and mount it thru the mount channel using the outside stock mounting holes. That will definitley tighten everything up. I got my motor cleaned up, painted and put back together. Im hoping to get it in by this weekend.......hopefully. Again, thanks for the advice, Im having a blast doing the build!!!

brian

[rhodog77]

Thought I would share some progress pix. Made some really good strides this week, with the help of some really good guys. Got the motor buttoned up and mounted, trans member positioned and mounted and replaced the upper A-arm bushings. Also got the steering in, I lenghted the steering shaft and tube. Got the parts off a 97 junkyard s10 for 10 bucks. Very easy and lines up perfect. Didnt get any pix yet, will post later.







I am mounting the cab for what I hope will be the last time tomorrow. I can't wait to see the how low the fenders are with the motor,tranny and cab on the frame. Im thinking the front fender will be about 6 inches off the ground with stock s10 suspension.

[1950 GMC]

rhodog77, Man your killing it. It looks great, and you will be on the road in no time. Hey do you mind explaining how you mounted the motor and tranny for us not so advanced builders? Thanks. I have read that you have to set the motor back off the cross member and to use a aftermarket trans brace. I looked at your photobucket account and checked out all the extra pics (love that idea and keep the pics coming, I may have to steal that idea) and noticed that you are using the orginal trans brace just moved back some, and the stock mounting position for the motor. Thanks for your help, knowledge and willingness to share. Guys like you make this task feel achievable for a novice like me!

[rhodog77]

50gmc,

Thanks for the encouragment, I appreciate the vote of confidence, sometimes it really keeps the build moving forward. This is my first frame off "custom", so Im a rookie at this, like so many of us on this forum. Thanks again for those who have subscribed and given advice/tips!!!

First, gettting the motor in wasn't as nearly bad as I thought it would be. Here some advice though. DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT buy any s10 v8 motor swap kit. I bought a kit from s10v8.com, and it was awesome. Great engineering, finish and detail. The kit is designed to mount a SB in an s10, and it did very nicely. However, it only works if your running an s10 body, DUUUUUHHHH!!! I never put 2 and 2 together. It moves the SB motor forward three inches to fit in the s10 engine bay. As many of you know, in th AD trucks, the motor needs to be back 3 inches. So, with that said, make you own engine mounts and save the $100.00. The pix of the engine pads on my photobucket account were the ones from the kit, bolted in the stock locations. Let me say again, they will not work in the AD trucks.

jeffs51chevy, once again, has helped out a bunch by sending me some pix of his engine mount design. Its the way to go if you ask me. Pretty simple, remove the s10 stock motor mounts and weld or bolt 1/4 steel plate directly on the crossmember where the old mounts were. You can then either weld new engine pads ($7.99 at autozone) to the plate or drill some slotted holes for more adjustment sake and bolt them in, simple preference. I ended up set the motor back about 2 3/4 inches. Watch your clearance of the motor/accessories to the engine crossmember, especially your fuel pump if your running the 350. I depressed my crossmember in about a 1/2 for a little extra room.

As for the trans member. Im not sure why everyone is fabbing. A little hacking on the stock one and it will work. I moved mine back about 5 or 6 inches, forget what the exact measurement was. Its about as far back as you can go and still fit ontop of the drivers side frame slot.

Hope this helps.
brian

[mg98ta]

Sweet build. I've got several of these trucks, some are for parts. I've got a 53 Chevy that was bought new by my great grandpa. I thought about doing the S-10 frame swap but I may leave it stock. I have seen the plans for the body mounts. I could fab some of those up no problem if anyone needs them. As long as Jeff51 doesn't mind. Pay for material cost and shipping. Maybe it'd help some of the S-10 frame swap guys out. Keep the pics and updates coming.

[rhodog77]

Got the cab mounted down today, for the 5th and hopefully last time. I got about 2 1/2 inches of clearance from the distributor cap to the firewall. The clearance came out exactly how I wanted. The motor lined up dead center. Got the steering column and linkage hooked back up. Hope to get the fuel lines, brake pedal and master cylinder and gas pedal done tomorrow. Took one quick pix today with the cell phone.

[IL boy]

i am loving it this build has been my inspiration, despite the man trying to hold a brotha (me) down with zoning violations and registration problems. i keep on truckin hoping to follow the path you have so graciously laid out before us.




dam the man save the empire...

[rhodog77]

IL Boy,
Thanks for the kind words. Its been a ton of fun and a huge learning experience.

Got a little work done this weekend. Now that the Cab and motor is mounted, the list of "little" projects gets longer and longer.

Got the brake booster and the brake pedal hung. The Booster looks off center but it straight. The filler cap wasn't pushed on all the way.






Trying to get the brake lines, fuel lines and steering column buttoned up by this weekend. I found a really nice complete front clip for sale, at a really good price. Hope it works out and I can pick it up this weekend. Got to find a 58" driveshaft as well from the junkyard.

[bjcaldwe]

The project is coming along nicely. Keep up the good work.

[rhodog77]

Slowlean,
One of the guys helping with the build had some real nice leather, full power heated seats. I know its crazy, he offered them to me but I just can't take him up on the offer. They are too nice for a freebie. I just threw it in to help set up the brake and gas pedals. I think im going to run a 40/20/40 or 40/60 bench seat.

[1950 GMC]

Any updates?