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Old 06-14-2015, 11:08 AM   #1
ssuth9
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Re: Project: 72 Cheyenne K20 Restore

Hi All, I haven't had much time with the truck lately.
(I'm sure these words have never been spoken here)

But I did get to spend a few hours yesterday removing everything from the frame (brake lines, fuel lines, etc.)

I did notice the front most cross member is bolted in place. Evidence of an accident in its past life I’m sure..
Is there any reason why this couldn’t be welded in place?
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Old 06-14-2015, 11:53 AM   #2
DeadheadNM
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Re: Project: 72 Cheyenne K20 Restore

Steve it seems to me a lot of front crossmembers get bent but not necessarily in an accident. It gets used as a site of attachment for a tow chain/strap and bent (forward) as a result. At least a PO replaced yours in the past - I've had to replace two to date. There may be some allowable frame flex that occurs about the rivet sites but I'm not certain of this. I'd just make sure your x-member is straight and affixed with good bolts and if so call it done.
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Old 06-14-2015, 01:45 PM   #3
First c10
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Re: Project: 72 Cheyenne K20 Restore

When I got my frame the front crossmember was loose on the steering box side so I ground the rivots, drilled out the holes and put in grade 8 7/16 bolts. Keep it up.
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1970 C10 Yellow/White Deluxe LWB w/ 5.3L-LC9/6L80E
1968 K10 LWB Dark green my son calls it "THE HULK Jr"HULK JR *SOLD*
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Old 06-15-2015, 10:06 PM   #4
ssuth9
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Re: Project: 72 Cheyenne K20 Restore

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeadheadNM View Post
Steve it seems to me a lot of front crossmembers get bent but not necessarily in an accident. It gets used as a site of attachment for a tow chain/strap and bent (forward) as a result. At least a PO replaced yours in the past - I've had to replace two to date. There may be some allowable frame flex that occurs about the rivet sites but I'm not certain of this. I'd just make sure your x-member is straight and affixed with good bolts and if so call it done.
Quote:
Originally Posted by First c10 View Post
When I got my frame the front crossmember was loose on the steering box side so I ground the rivots, drilled out the holes and put in grade 8 7/16 bolts. Keep it up.

Thanks for the input guys.. Yeah, my next step is to pressure wash the frame and drive train.

I’ll look up the frame specs and see if I can notice anything with a tape measure.. I was thinking of swinging by a body shop to ask what they would charge to check my frame..
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Old 06-20-2015, 10:28 PM   #5
ssuth9
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Re: Project: 72 Cheyenne K20 Restore

Well I loaded up the frame and "drive-train" today, hauled them in to town for a High Temp pressure wash. It was very Hot Water.
The fitting on the wand had a small leak. It dripped a few small drops on my shoe, and Dang It Hurt. It was also 105 in today..

After the wash I do see evidence of an accident. see pics..

You can see were the frame has been reworked on the passenger side, and it looks like the driver’s side front horn is a bit tweaked outwards.

I definitely need to get in to a Body-shop.
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Old 06-14-2015, 01:53 PM   #6
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Re: Project: 72 Cheyenne K20 Restore

Hey Steve I must have not hit send on the first post. So try this again...

Looking good I will be watching. I am building a k20 myself. These guys have great info. They have been helping me a lot.
Rock on! From California.
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1956 Chevy Bel Air 2 door
1956 Chevy 210 4 Door
1970 K20 LWB project the Hulk build w/Supercharged 4.8L-ly2/4L60E HULK BUILD
1970 C10 Yellow/White Deluxe LWB w/ 5.3L-LC9/6L80E
1968 K10 LWB Dark green my son calls it "THE HULK Jr"HULK JR *SOLD*
GO GO!!!
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