65Custom Build Thread

[aggie91]

I just looked at this build again. YOu have done a ton of work on that cab. Mine is not that bad, but I have even thought about pulling the cowl area apart to repair/remove rust from where you can't see it once it is together. I have some rust holes (small ones) along the edge where the firewall and cowl are meet.

Keep up the great work!

[65Custom]

Originally Posted by miracle whip

Ok thanks it looks good!

Thanks

Originally Posted by collins10672

can't wait to see the cab finished up and in primer.fixing this cab you have more guts than most men would lol.seriously you have done a fine job on it.i have pondered about tearing a cab down this way to get at all of the rust.to me this is the best looking bodystyle truck ever built,its a shame GM didn't build them to last forever.i think you have found a way to save many rusty old cabs that a few years ago nobody would have considered restoring.thanks for the info on the cab corners,yours sure look good.

Believe it or not it really has not been as bad as I expected, yes it has been a lot of work and I'm working in small two car attached garage so logistics is tough sometimes, but do-able. Yes I am very happy with how the cab corners turned out and thanks for the compliments it helps keep me motivated.

Originally Posted by aggie91

I just looked at this build again. YOu have done a ton of work on that cab. Mine is not that bad, but I have even thought about pulling the cowl area apart to repair/remove rust from where you can't see it once it is together. I have some rust holes (small ones) along the edge where the firewall and cowl are meet.

Keep up the great work!

I tell ya I think that there are a lot of cabs out there that don't get fixed as they should when it comes to the cowl area. I also will tell you that removal of the air boxes and the cowl is really the best way to fix the area it gives you the best access, I had the firewall and floor out when I fixed mine so it was even easier to fix, anyway good luck on yours and if you have a question let me know I have a ton of pictures, I just cant post them all I have some many. I am trying to document everything that I do.

[65Custom]

We had a nice day here in Ga. it is a great weekend of sun and the good ol boys racing is in town (NASCAR). I wish I had ticket for this weekend any way I digress. So I couldn't let this nice weather get away without doing something today, so I finally got the old drip rail off and a new one welded back on and hopefully now that the weather is getting warmer I can get motivated to get the cab finished up.

[65Custom]

Starting to get some motivation back, so I decided to start to remove the roof panel and I thought that I would put up some pics of the process.

1 Roof panel I picked up from greg65 last year
I have had some ask about how to find spot welds so I'll put a few pics which might help some.

2 pic of the tools used
3 pic of spot welds they are not too difficult to find sometimes you can find them with your finger tips just feel for the indentations in the metal, you will feel the small dimples in the metal, but occasionally I miss one and eventually you find it when you think you got them all and it is still stuck on

4 pic of spot welds after being punched with a spring loaded punch
I usually punch them several times I found that the deeper the punch mark the better the tool holds to the center and does not walk around as much

5 pic of spot welds one which has been cut and the other one just started
if you notice the one that has been cut most of the way through you will notice some rust dust as I like to call it. when you get used to cutting them you will see a puff of the rust dust when you cut through and you will know when to stop cutting.

On the roof panel since the drip rail is visible part of the truck I am taking it a bit slower to make sure that I don't blow through the drip rail

[65sublime]

Wow, what an effort so far! I wouldn't have thought to replace the entire floor, probably would have gone in the direction of replacing the cab. Great persistance and metal working skills.
In your initial comments you talked of going with one piece glass in the doors. Have you given that any more thought? I'm getting close to starting that on my '65 sub doors and am looking for any helpful ideas. The door stop looks like it may be an issue but I think later model hinges have a built-in door stop link. If the complete hinge is not a bolt-in swap maybe the link can be incorporated into the '65 hinge. I've already purchased power units that have a GM style motor attached to the vertical track. I'd like to make the mounting brackets bolt to the door edge or bottom because I'm not sure if I will use the stock interior panel or a full door upholstered panel. I've got one door that needs to be reskinned so getting access to plan things out should not be a problem. Sorry to hijack your thread but I wondered if you had looked into this yet?

[65Custom]

Originally Posted by 65sublime

Wow, what an effort so far! I wouldn't have thought to replace the entire floor, probably would have gone in the direction of replacing the cab. Great persistance and metal working skills.
In your initial comments you talked of going with one piece glass in the doors. Have you given that any more thought? I'm getting close to starting that on my '65 sub doors and am looking for any helpful ideas. The door stop looks like it may be an issue but I think later model hinges have a built-in door stop link. If the complete hinge is not a bolt-in swap maybe the link can be incorporated into the '65 hinge. I've already purchased power units that have a GM style motor attached to the vertical track. I'd like to make the mounting brackets bolt to the door edge or bottom because I'm not sure if I will use the stock interior panel or a full door upholstered panel. I've got one door that needs to be reskinned so getting access to plan things out should not be a problem. Sorry to hijack your thread but I wondered if you had looked into this yet?

I have looked around and found a site that says they offer a kit for one piece glass for both door a little pricey I guess but not too bad they say it includes everything needed to do it and even comes in tinted glass.

I'm still a little torn between the original with the vent windows and then one piece glass. I have yet to decide, basically this thing seems to be morphing into something that I had not planned on so far it has stayed true to the whole vision, but as I move along through the process things are changing some either because it has to change due to some just not being able to do it based on the idea or things are just not made they way I would like them and I have to change it to make it work.

I have got a way to go before I get to the doors and Ill post pics as I go along.

Here is a one piece install on our years
http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/04...ows/index.html may be helpful

Here is the one piece Glass kit
http://nolimit.net/prodinfo.asp?number=GLS-6466

[65Custom]

Stumbled across this if anyone has not see it

A fiberglass Cab, beds, door and hoods for our years

http://www.easyrestoration.com/Fiber...s/60-Chevy.htm

[Captainfab]

I would research that one piece window kit before pulling the trigger on it. I've heard some not so good reviews on their kit. I believe one of them was over on the '55-'59 forum

Originally Posted by 65Custom

I
Here is a one piece install on our years
http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/04...ows/index.html may be helpful

Here is the one piece Glass kit
http://nolimit.net/prodinfo.asp?number=GLS-6466

That is US Body Source.....they don't have a good reputation......

Originally Posted by 65Custom

Stumbled across this if anyone has not see it

A fiberglass Cab, beds, door and hoods for our years

http://www.easyrestoration.com/Fiber...s/60-Chevy.htm

[65Custom]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I would research that one piece window kit before pulling the trigger on it. I've heard some not so good reviews on their kit. I believe one of them was over on the '55-'59 forum

That is US Body Source.....they don't have a good reputation......

I don't know anything about them but I just put it out there for anyone.


On the one piece window kit, they don't give much information about what is included in the kit, but Custom trucks did the install with that kit and from the article they didn't have too much bad to say about it

It does require a lot of custom work and a bit of hacking up the doors and I'm not sure that I want to hack that much metal out of my doors

I'm still undecided but I really like the idea

[ruffrida2005]

I've heard from a lot of people on this forum that have done the one peice say that the window has to either be all the way up or all the way down when you drive. or the window will rattle since the top wont be held by anything if it's out of the door seal at top.

[65Custom]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

I've heard from a lot of people on this forum that have done the one peice say that the window has to either be all the way up or all the way down when you drive. or the window will rattle since the top wont be held by anything if it's out of the door seal at top.

It makes sense that it could do that, since changing it over to a single piece of glass when it was not designed that way in the first place.
I suppose it really depends on how well it is designed and how it all gets installed as I understand it should have a guide at the front of the glass that is made from the original vent channel as a stabiliser for the glass to prevent that similar to the later models.

[65Custom]

Ok so I have talked to friend who is very knowledgeable about old cars he currently works for a resto shop in the area anyway he mentioned three things that could be causing the one piece glass to have issues when partially rolled up or down.

1. The thickness of the glass, the new tempered glass is thinner than back in the day when our trucks was built, So if the glass is newer then this can attribute to one issue

2. The weather striping, if the weather striping used is based on the thicker glass then the dampening affect that the weather striping provides may not be adequate. A different weather striping may be required

3. Using the original window mechanisms these become worn with age and are not tight as the day they were built and one solution would be that if you are going to put in a one piece Glass door that you may want to use a power window system. New mechanisms are not a loose and if you mount them properly they should work as intended.

4. Oh this is one that he mentioned that is a good little trick, some of the earlier cars like the camaro and Chevelle, & Cutlass etc had felt adjusters in the doors that guided the windows in the door to stop them from flopping around in the door.

Just thought that I would share some of his wisdom for what it is worth.

[LILRED66]

The primary reason for the instability of the one-piece glass is the mechanism. It operates in a single track, therefore it can fulcrum in the middle, where the glass is seated into the bottom channel. If the single piece glass was made to be longer at the bottom, allowing it to go deeper into the door shell at the bottom, the glass could be supported at the bottom edge and up each side a few inches, to eliminate the fulcrum effect, thus allowing the glass to be stable in the opening. After stripping over 100 doors to shells, it is easy to see, but if you haven't taken many apart, it may be difficult to understand and equally difficult for me to explain it.

[65Custom]

Originally Posted by LILRED66

The primary reason for the instability of the one-piece glass is the mechanism. It operates in a single track, therefore it can fulcrum in the middle, where the glass is seated into the bottom channel. If the single piece glass was made to be longer at the bottom, allowing it to go deeper into the door shell at the bottom, the glass could be supported at the bottom edge and up each side a few inches, to eliminate the fulcrum effect, thus allowing the glass to be stable in the opening. After stripping over 100 doors to shells, it is easy to see, but if you haven't taken many apart, it may be difficult to understand and equally difficult for me to explain it.

I think you also have another piece to the solution. I agree as this make a lots sense giving the glass more meat in the channel would help the stabalize the glass when partially up or down.

[Eagletucky]

I really like what you did with the floors. You have given me the inspiration i needed for my suburban. The floors are gone, along with the mounts and bracing. I have a fairly rust free truck cab that will give up its firewall and floors to live again in the burb. It may be a few months before I tackle this, but I wanted to let you know this thread was quite helpfull!

Thanks!

[65Custom]

Originally Posted by Eagletucky

I really like what you did with the floors. You have given me the inspiration i needed for my suburban. The floors are gone, along with the mounts and bracing. I have a fairly rust free truck cab that will give up its firewall and floors to live again in the burb. It may be a few months before I tackle this, but I wanted to let you know this thread was quite helpfull!

Thanks!

Thanks and if I can answer any question please let me know, I also love the burbs and would love to see a build thread for it.

[CSoliz]

65custom, WOW. The work you have done is outstanding. I have a few questions for you. About how many rivets were drilled out when you removed the airboxes? I have a lot of cancer up there as well. And, could you PM me where you got the cab corners.

Thanks and keep up the great work!

[gostranger]

awesome job nice work cant wait to see the progress thanks for giving the pictures

[65Custom]

Originally Posted by CSoliz

65custom, WOW. The work you have done is outstanding. I have a few questions for you. About how many rivets were drilled out when you removed the airboxes? I have a lot of cancer up there as well. And, could you PM me where you got the cab corners.

Thanks and keep up the great work!

Thanks I need all the support I can get, but there are many more on this site that deserve it more than I do.

For the spot welds there are about 50 or so spot welds per air box and then about 100 for the panel between the air boxes. Also remember that these were spot welded by hand and not computers so some times you may or may not find welds where they should be located

There are several ways to locate where the spot welds are located, none of them are better than the other it is just what works for you and your cab.

feel for the dimples, lightly sand or grind the pinch weld area and locate the low spots those are the spot welds, also visual inspection and and you will start to recognize where they are located. I also found that where you can placing you finger on the back side can also help locate the welds.

Tools that I recommend are a spot weld cutter and a steck tool

The spot weld cutter will be your best friend . It is double sided and has an adjustable center point for tension. To use it adjust the tension on the center point, then using a center punch, punch the approximate center of the spot weld and then place the center of the cutter in the punch mark. Then start using the cutter very slowly, this keeps you from cutting too deep and also dulling the cutter too quickly, cut for a few seconds and the remove the cutter to view the progress after some time you will get the feel of it and can do several pretty quickly it goes faster than you think it will.

one thing to note that sometimes when cutting through the first layer of metal you will notice a small puff of rust colored dust that is an indication that you have gone through the top layer of metal and it is time to stop cutting. Again go slow and take your time

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95343

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/stec...5-p-11711.aspx

one more thing to note sometimes what appears to be the center of a spot weld may not be where the metal is actually welded together, I found that sometimes the metal was actually welded off of the center of the dimple (I think this has to do with how a spot welder works) so this you won't know till you start trying to get the parts off don't worry just take your time and they will come off.

Originally Posted by gostranger

awesome job nice work cant wait to see the progress thanks for giving the pictures

Thanks

[CSoliz]

Originally Posted by 65Custom

Thanks I need all the support I can get, but there are many more on this site that deserve it more than I do.

For the spot welds there are about 50 or so spot welds per air box and then about 100 for the panel between the air boxes. Also remember that these were spot welded by hand and not computers so some times you may or may not find welds where they should be located

There are several ways to locate where the spot welds are located, none of them are better than the other it is just what works for you and your cab.

feel for the dimples, lightly sand or grind the pinch weld area and locate the low spots those are the spot welds, also visual inspection and and you will start to recognize where they are located. I also found that where you can placing you finger on the back side can also help locate the welds.

Tools that I recommend are a spot weld cutter and a steck tool

The spot weld cutter will be your best friend . It is double sided and has an adjustable center point for tension. To use it adjust the tension on the center point, then using a center punch, punch the approximate center of the spot weld and then place the center of the cutter in the punch mark. Then start using the cutter very slowly, this keeps you from cutting too deep and also dulling the cutter too quickly, cut for a few seconds and the remove the cutter to view the progress after some time you will get the feel of it and can do several pretty quickly it goes faster than you think it will.

one thing to note that sometimes when cutting through the first layer of metal you will notice a small puff of rust colored dust that is an indication that you have gone through the top layer of metal and it is time to stop cutting. Again go slow and take your time

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95343

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/stec...5-p-11711.aspx

one more thing to note sometimes what appears to be the center of a spot weld may not be where the metal is actually welded together, I found that sometimes the metal was actually welded off of the center of the dimple (I think this has to do with how a spot welder works) so this you won't know till you start trying to get the parts off don't worry just take your time and they will come off.



Thanks

That's great. Thank you for taking the time.

[65Custom]

I found this on CL today some guy looking for a vintage Air unit and he put this pic up of how he is running his lines. It took me a moment to get it because of how the pic was taken

I think that this is an interesting idea but I'm not sure about running the lines where the tires could interfere with the lines or even get damaged in a blow out.

I am planning on hiding everything as much as possible but I know there is a limit to what you can do, especially if your running a later model engine with all the electronics.

Anyway here is an idea if anyone is interested.

[70 Suburban]

i like it i may try somthin like that

[65Custom]

Originally Posted by 70 Suburban

i like it i may try somthin like that

I think it is a cool idea I'm just trying to figure out what would be the best way to runs the hoses to that point. I guess I will have check that out once I get there but I'm a long way from there.

[65Custom]

to

[65Custom]

Well it was a rather cloudy and overcast day here with prospects of rain later on so while it was half way decent I ran over to the parts truck and removed the front bumper brackets and bumper.

So I almost have everything I need related to hard parts but I'm still looking for a couple of items.

While I was there I took a couple of shots of some future projects my friend has stored, the 56 Buick's are sold but one of the Riviera's may become a Road Rally car he has some really cool ideas for it, I hope he builds it, lately with the economy being the way it he is a little down on his luck but he is surviving so this project may be on hold for awhile.