Ride quality, Hoping for a little advice

[EdwardSams]

I’m committed to improving the ride quality of my 70. It’s riding on 285 35 22s (rubber bands). It’s got a hotchkiss spring kit that the PO put on that I’m pretty certain results in a 4/6 drop. On the rear I did the no limit shock relocation and panhard bar kit. It doesn’t have a c notch.

To improve ride and to change the look I’m thinking of getting rid of the 22s and going something in the 18” range. Maybe Ridler wheels. But that would require changing to a 5 lug set up as I’ve had a tough time finding any 6 lug wheels that I like. Right now is 6/5.5 disc up front, drum in rear.

I’m hoping to get a bit of guidance from the group. Goal: improve ride and get off the 22s. What would you do?

Thanks everyone.

[SCOTI]

A 285/35 = 3.9" tall sidewall. That's close to what the 'Big Three' auto manufacturers utilize on modern performance cars. There is definitely worse out there.

Your idea of smaller diameter wheels w/taller sidewalls is a good start.
Aside from the No Limit rear relocation, what's the shock situation front/rear? They play a big part in supporting ride quality.

[Andy4639]

What kind of springs do you have in the truck? When it was lowered did you use springs and if so how did you do it, cut them, heat'em are buy lowered springs?
If you put heat to them are bought new lowered ones try putting some air lift bags inside them like me. My 71 has them in all 4 springs and my truck rides great. No c notch, I have the no limit shock relocator and track bar. My truck never bottoms out now.

Wheels.

I would go 18" are 20" tops.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

What kind of springs do you have in the truck? When it was lowered did you use springs and if so how did you do it, cut them, heat'em are buy lowered springs?
If you put heat to them are bought new lowered ones try putting some air lift bags inside them like me. My 71 has them in all 4 springs and my truck rides great. No c notch, I have the no limit shock relocator and track bar. My truck never bottoms out now.

Wheels.

I would go 18" are 20" tops.

Originally Posted by EdwardSams

It’s got a hotchkiss spring kit that the PO put on that I’m pretty certain results in a 4/6 drop.

2nd sentence of his post.

[EdwardSams]

Thanks guys.

The springs were put in by the previous owner. Their Hotchkis lowering springs. I’ve googled the part number and came up empty. Also called Hotchkis and they weren’t helpful in tracking down what they are (definitely disappointing). Maybe I’ll try that again...

The shocks up front are Belltech for lowered trucks and the rear are Doetsch that came with the No Limit relocation kit.

Feeling it has to be the short sidewall making thing’s especially rough.

[SkidmoreGarage]

Can you provide some more detail about what you don't like about the ride? Does it seem too stiff or does it hit the bumpstops/frame? Is it the front or the rear that is worse? Have you looked to see how much travel you have at ride height? I'd be suspect of PO springs, just because it's an unknown. I posted this on another thread, but thought some of the details may help you.

Traction and comfort are surprisingly similar goals. In both cases you want to keep the wheels controlled and in contact with the road. Unfortunately, payload capacity and comfort are opposing goals. To be able to control a heavy load, you need to be able to resist forces that are in addition to that which the truck normally sees. So for comfort, you want low spring rates (but correct for a 4k lbs truck) and matching shock valving. If the struts are valved for HD load they will resist the impulse to move, which leads to a jarring ride. If the springs are too stiff, you will also experience that it takes a lot of force to move the suspension, and you will feel that as harshness.

To stop the axle from hitting the frame, you will want to utilize modern bumpstops. This will add a progressive ramp rate to the spring when you reach the end of travel.

The third part is that you want to maximize suspension travel. This is why most people recommend drop spindles and lowering blocks to start. These allow for standard length springs and struts. You won't reach a 5" drop with drop blocks, but you may be able to use a 3" spring and 2" blocks.

The final part is, what is best coilovers or regular springs and coils? The answer is that they are the same. Coilovers just move the spring to the strut, and have an adjustable spring platform. However, when you do this, you will increase the demand on the shock mounts. This is why you see aftermarket companies creat mounting kits.

With this info, hopefully you or someone else will be able to ask the right questions when shopping around. If I had to make a suggestion for you:

Front: 73-87 stock arms, sway bar, and disc brakes, 3" drop spindles, new stock springs or stock height but lower spring rate. Use a high quality OE style replacement shock, can be same brand as rear for bonus points.

Rear: 2" drop blocks, 3" drop springs with the softer 200-225lb rate. The NLE shock relocation kit and the longer shocks they recommend. Replace stock rubber bumpstops with bolt on belltech or energy suspension bumpstops.

[EdwardSams]

Thanks Big Kev.

Today I dropped by a local custom wheel shop and had a look through what they had on display and in a few catalogs. They tried to sell me on going for 20s (which they have in stock) on a 245 tire, but I didn't go for it. I don't think it's enough of a move that will make enough of a difference in the ride.

18" wheels are my target, so I'm going to obsessively look at pictures to narrow things down a bit.

But first I'm going to get the front suspension a bit more dialed in, so I'll post updates as I get it worked out.

[EdwardSams]

I pulled the wheel off to get a closer look at what’s going on under there now. It looks like the original control arms, ball joints, etc. what Do you all think of what I’ve got here?

I’m thinking about putting in drop spindles and a new disc brake set up while it’s apart. Anything else I should hit while in there?

[SCOTI]

Definitely has original upper BJ's.

[May70]

You should probably start by doing a total service of the front end. If you don't own a grease gun go get one and get to greasing.

If you don't have a front sway bar you should definitely get one and if you do already have one, replace your bushings. They sell kits now with greaseable bushings.

Springs may be worn out also.

[davischevy]

I would like to see a picture of the front suspension loaded, as it normally would sit. Those bump stops look to me like the truck may be riding on them.

[EdwardSams]

Thanks guys. I'll get out there and take some more pics.

Yes, there is a sway bar. IDK how old the bushings are, so I'll add putting in new ones to the to do list.

If I do the drop spindles, I'll likely do a 2" drop spring so I get a total 4.5" drop.

About the disc brakes that are on there now, the rotors are 1" thick and I have no idea what they are off of. I'm hoping to re-use them with the spindles, but I don't know what year the discs are off of so I'm shooting a bit in the dark on making sure the spindles will work with them, or is there a way to verify what's on there now? Other than the casting #s on the front of the calipers, there aren't any other markings on them.

[davischevy]

Originally Posted by EdwardSams

Thanks guys. I'll get out there and take some more pics.

Yes, there is a sway bar. IDK how old the bushings are, so I'll add putting in new ones to the to do list.

If I do the drop spindles, I'll likely do a 2" drop spring so I get a total 4.5" drop.

About the disc brakes that are on there now, the rotors are 1" thick and I have no idea what they are off of. I'm hoping to re-use them with the spindles, but I don't know what year the discs are off of so I'm shooting a bit in the dark on making sure the spindles will work with them, or is there a way to verify what's on there now? Other than the casting #s on the front of the calipers, there aren't any other markings on them.

If you do a 2" drop spring in addition to 2" dropped spindle, that will put you on the bump stop for sure. Be prepared for lot more work.

If you do a 4.5" static drop, the ride will only get worse..

[EdwardSams]

Here is a picture with the truck on ground. The bumpstop is an inch from hitting, and you can see where it has been hitting. An inch doesn’t leave much room...

I measured the shock with and without load as well. With load - 11", without load - 13".

[gmc684x4]

Are you going with a taller spring with your drop spindle?

Many use a 1 to 2 inch drop spring with a 2.5 drop spindle for a 3.5 to 4.5 front drop keeping a more comfortable ride with less steering alignment issues

[LS short box]

I did the POL a-arms and I am happy with them. Allowed me to set the caster to 4.5 degrees. Goes down the road very straight.

[EdwardSams]

Update: I was finally able to connect with Hotchkis about the springs on my truck. I have tried a while back and never got an answer from them so tried again and got word back. Apparently the previous owner put 6 inch drop springs on the front as well as the rear.

Those of you that said to check the springs were dead on. Thx

[EdwardSams]

The parts finally made it and I was able to get into it a bit.

Driver side done except for swapping out caliper brake line with the new Wilwood setup. I stripped the bolt holding it on... will get to it one night during the week. And have ordered Copper so I can replace what I’ve damaged.

[EdwardSams]

Here’s a pic of the bolt I stripped (this is the before).

[Tx Firefighter]

Whoever at Hotchkiss that said you have 6 inch drop springs is goofy. You have two inch drop springs I'd wager. Maybe 3 inch.

Look at this picture you posted. Your bumpstops aren't touching.



Further, you have stock drum brake spindles with some sort of bolt on disc brake kit. The bolt on steering arms are indicative of stock drum spindles. So you don't have any drop in the spindles for sure.



So what's my point of all of this ? You had about 2 or 3 inches drop in the front originally. Your new setup is going to take you quite a bit lower. Plan accordingly with your new tire sizes.

I have probably static dropped as many trucks as any member on this board. Dropped spindles and modest drop coils like you have chosen are perfect. Your grandma could drive it and not find the ride objectionable. Any deficiency in ride quality in that setup will be related to wheel and tire choice. Fear not. Choose a front tire around 27 inches tall and you'll be happy.