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11-14-2003, 07:43 PM | #26 |
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Buy it disassembled or have the dealer break it in on their dyno!
I will keep you guys posted. What a waste of 13k!
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11-14-2003, 11:28 PM | #27 |
My other Love
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man you just aren't having good luck man, you are scaring me as I have the 383 sitting in my Monte, which hasn't been run yet. Luckily it was built by a local guy who will fix anything if it was his fault, but not if it was mine.
With the distributor issue, I have a 454 in my 69 the distributor is a bit close to the firewall but I have at least a half an inch so it close but not to effect anything. And that is with stock small block towers with big block pads bolted onto them.
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11-15-2003, 12:20 AM | #28 |
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i work in a machine shop we do a lot of race motors and just hopped up motors in general. i wouldnt use a 502 if it was given to me. i have already seen two blocks where the from crank main web just seperated from the block above the bolts. im not talking about just the cap but the cap and the web it was bolted to just basically fell out and these were both untouched gm crates
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11-15-2003, 12:29 AM | #29 |
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Thanks!
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11-15-2003, 12:55 AM | #30 |
My other Love
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LOL, that better not happen to you Mike!
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11-24-2003, 08:20 PM | #31 |
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Update 11/24/03:
Well the verdict is the motor has to come out. Apparenlty the valve train is not being oiled properly and it is thought to be due to something inside the block. So it will be removed and sent back to Salle Chevrolet. Uknown as to who will be footing the bill for freight and R&R. Oh and Merry Xmas.
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11-24-2003, 08:34 PM | #32 |
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hmm you dont seem to happy. dont worry be happy man
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11-24-2003, 08:38 PM | #33 |
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You're avatar helped. Thanks!
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11-26-2003, 11:43 PM | #34 |
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Update 11/26/03:
It looks as though R&R is on me. I should know in about 5-7 days what's going on inside the motor.
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12-07-2003, 04:25 AM | #35 |
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Update 12/04/03:
Motor should have been on the Dyno last thursday. I should know next week the outcome. If the motor needs new valve train components should I: Upgrade it with bigger solid roller cam, springs and roller rockers along with a single plane intake? Parts will probably be on me. If I am offered a new motor should I: Add some extra cash and wheel and deal for a 572?
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12-07-2003, 05:11 AM | #36 |
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If you have the cash.....go for the 572
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12-07-2003, 11:14 AM | #37 |
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I would wheel and deal on the 572!!!!!!! Just have them break it in like you said, damn that has to be frustrating with a new motor. I have been fairly happy with my crate motor(350)
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12-07-2003, 01:17 PM | #38 |
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Mike T, maybe you could do some kind of short writeup for the FAQ board regarding buying crate engines and having them dynoed before leaving the shop. This sounds like a very good idea, especially for the guys like me who only have the ability to install and take out engines, not disassemble or diagnose them! I've read alot of the posts regarding build-it-yourself vs. crate and in my case and others, this is a MAJOR determining factor against buying crate engines.
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12-07-2003, 01:44 PM | #39 | |
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Quote:
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12-07-2003, 01:45 PM | #40 | |
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Quote:
Well...I will have to see what kind of deal they will make. I think there is 5K difference between the 502 and 572....my wife won't go for that.
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12-07-2003, 10:29 PM | #41 |
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Same thing happened to me. I bought a 383 long block from Jasper Engines. Drive it and after it warmed up it would squeak.
It had Dart heads on it. I pulled the heads off and sent them back to Jasper to check. They came back, put them back on and it did the same thing. Sent the whole engine back and they completely tore it down. All new parts- everything new. Got the motor back--- same thing. What happened was when it warmed up the cleareance between the pushrods and the guides would close up a little. With the regular steel rockers the pushrods have a little side to side movement. I put roller rockers on it and never had the problem again. The folks at Jasper were great to work with. Because I was doing the work myself, they upgraded the valves to larger valves and gave me the roller rocker setup, and the new valve covers. If I had to do it over I just might do it again!! |
12-11-2003, 12:42 PM | #42 |
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update 12/11/03:
Sallee has completely tore apart my 502 and found only the oil pan windage tray had moved and was rubbing on the oil pan. I am not sure this is the cause of the noise but it will go back on the dyno for a second time before it gets shipped to me. If I can swing it, since it's apart, it may get upgraded with a solid roller cam, lifters, new p-rods,full roller rockers, ported Victor intake, new speed Demon 850 mech sec carb,a port job and flat mill on the heads...hopefully to yeild a 625/650hp 625/650 lb/ft torque output. I am not 100% this is the route I will take. It aint cheap.
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12-11-2003, 03:18 PM | #43 |
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what a pain in the a$$. I have heard locally the same horor stories of the parts only warranty but this blow by blow has put me over the edge. I will not buy a crate motor. I am looking into doing a 383 and had visited the GM website but that is no longer an option.
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12-11-2003, 03:31 PM | #44 |
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LEWI:
I understand. However, I believe that buying a crate motor depends completely on who you are buying it from. My suggestion would be to purchase it from a dealer such as Sallee who has the ability to dyno/break in the motor. Spend the money to have this done.....it's great insurance once you install the motor. Some other items worth mentioning...anytime you purchase a crate motor and install it in a vehicle make sure you have a VALID paper trail showing that the other ancillary items such as the radiator have been flushed or purchased new. If anything happens to the motor, they will look at this BEFORE they make any moves to repair or replace any engine components. I would also add that if you have followed this procedure to a "T" make the dealer aware of it...they will be the ones to fight GM for you on this....or in this case...buck up and fix whatever is wrong.
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12-11-2003, 03:39 PM | #45 |
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Mike; I'm not a mecahanic and far from it but I had a guy here in town do a little work for me, he had put in a crate motor for one of his friends and had problems with it leaking. The dealership handed him some new gaskets and sent them on thier way. I would much rather find a reputable motor builder who will stand behind thier work.
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12-11-2003, 07:15 PM | #46 |
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Wow!!! What a sad and frustrating story!
I installed a ZZ3 350 in my SWB Cheyenne and couldn't have been happier. I did end up with an oil leak at the intake manifold and the selling dealer fixed it under warranty. Based on your unbelieveably tragic story, I may not recommend crate motors like I did before. I do wish you the very best! You should be taken care of and I admire your ability to share the details with us. Good Luck, and let us know how things turn out! |
12-11-2003, 07:31 PM | #47 |
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Well the next most explosive step in this is campaigning my wife for the extra $$$$ for my cam upgrade. I am not sure what her take will be.
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12-12-2003, 12:47 PM | #48 |
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Mike, it will be alot more expensive to make changes later, make sure she understands you would wait, but you just want to save money in the long run. In reality you are spending money now to save money later, that argument ought to work great, yep, ought to work great.
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12-12-2003, 01:35 PM | #49 |
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Update 12/12/03:
Well it looks as though Mrs. Santa is convinced I was good this year....so the motor will get: Crane Solid roller Cam Crane solid Roller lifters New Pushrods Valve Springs, retainers/keepers Crane Full Roller Rockers Valve covers (shown) Victor intake 850 Speed Demon Mech Sec carb new coil and module Square deck block Port Job on the heads port job on the intake mill heads for 10-1 compression End goal is 625/650hp and close to same in torque. The cool thing is, I will have the dyno sheet to back it up. Bad thing is, I probably won't have my truck back until next year.
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12-12-2003, 02:34 PM | #50 |
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Man that's gonna be even more awesome!
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