My 1958 GMC 100 Stepside Budget Build

[Techie79]

It has been a while since the last update and things have been moving along slowly. I know it is a little late but I hope everyone had a good Christmas and new year. I guess I had my fiancée fooled into thinking I was a good boy last year. I gave her a Christmas list of a few tools that I needed thinking she would pick a couple of them but no.. she decided to buy the entire list.





Right after new years we had the joy of a major ice storm and losing power for about 24 hours so needless to say no progress that weekend and the following weekend was spent running a new circuit and wiring in the new compressor. Sure is nice now having a few more of the needed tools and plenty of air flow to make it all work.

I am still working on the passenger step and floor pan area, so here are a few pics.







It was my first time ever media blasting but I think they turned out pretty good.




Now I finally have the passenger floor all patched up and the step screwed together so all I like to get ready for test fitting the door is to replace the front cab floor support. I had ordered a new support from Auto Metal Direct which is where I have gotten the other patch panels from and haven't had any problems until now. Today I finished cutting the old support out and attempting to put the new support into place and "Houston we have a problem". As you can see in the pic below, the cab mount bolt hole is way out of place on the new support. If I line up the mounting hole the support doesn't even touch the front of the step and lower hinge pocket. I went ahead an blasted the old support and It looks like I'll be patching it up and reusing it. I have read lots of bad things about aftermarket parts but wow that was a terrible fit and no way to modify it.

[Kim57]

Nice tools.
Repairs are looking good.
Kim

[RockinKees]

Nice new tools!
Now you have to build the '58, can't go back now

The new floor supports looks totally out of shape in the pics, not just the holes, or is it just the look of it?
Good thing you can patch the old ones!

[Techie79]

Thanks Kim..

RockinKees. It doesn't look like it in the pics but other than rounded edges and the bolt hole the parts are nearly identical. I contacted AMD today about the issue and I have got to say they have great customer service. I sent them the pics and after checking the rest of their stock they offered me a full refund even though I have already cut on the part and they are going to work with their manufacturers to get the problem fixed. I'm not going to wait but maybe I managed to save the next person some frustration from a poorly made part.

[59chev]

I had the same problem with the hole location on the replacement floor supports. I cut a plug, welded the hole shut, ground it smooth and redrilled it. Ticked me off to have to modify new parts but my originals where rusted beyond repair.

[Techie79]

59chev. I considered doing the same and if I were in more of a pinch I probably would have tried but I wasn't sure how it would turn out having to cut out the center spacer, redrilling, and welding it back together. Glad it worked out for you. I'm ok with a little trimming or reshaping but it stinks having to go to that extent to make a part work.

[ptc]

Cool on the new tools~! its always better to have the right tool for the job, I did it for many years making things work with what I had laying around.

Project is progressing nicely!

[Techie79]

I have worked several hours this weekend finishing up rebuilding door hinges and test fitting the passenger door before welding up the work that has been done on the step and lower hinge pocket replacement. I got the door hung and managed to get the gaps and body lines on both sides and the top adjusted better than I could have ever imagined for my first time, but now for the problem. The gap for the rocker panel is good in the rear but the front has about half an inch gap between the bottom of the door and the rocker. I have tried taking the front edge of the step loose and moving the edge and rocker panel up to adjust the gap but the step hit the bottom of the door before making very little improvement on the gap. The only way I can see of fixing the problem is to pie cut the length of the rocker between the rocker and the step and rewelding it to close the gap in the front. Any suggestions on a better way of fixing this are greatly appreciated. Here are some pics.

[Kim57]

Remember these things came from the factory with terrible gaps.
To get them to look good all the way around you need to cut and move things.
On mine I had to add to the doors and fenders in different places to get a decent gap.
Kim

[Techie79]

It has been 5 busy months since I really had any time to spend on the old truck. In that time I married the love of my life and had a honeymoon in Vegas, moved into a smaller house with a bigger garage, and got our oldest daughter married. I have finally gotten somewhat caught up and got most of the new house honey do's done. So I finally got a few hours to spend in the garage yesterday. Nothing big just a little more patch work but hoping I can get this project moving.

[Techie79]

Another evening in the garage and a little more progress. Slowly but surely.

[Kim57]

Any progress is good progress.
Kim

[Techie79]

A little more progress over the weekend. I finished cutting out the filler panel between the roof and the windshield lip and started trying to fit the dynacorn replacement that I bought. I don't see any way of getting the new panel in place without having to either remove the roof or cut off the ends of the new panel that should tuck in behind the metal at the top of the roof pillar and butt weld it. Time for a little more research.

[Techie79]

One more thing. Can anyone tell me what they used for seam filler and how to remove it? I thought they used lead but this stuff is gold in color and I heated it with a torch until the metal around it was red hot and I could still only scratch it with a screwdriver. The only way I have found to remove it was a grinder. It just makes it tough in tight spaces.

[Az. Hank]

Looks like it was brazed. Once it gets that hot maybe go over it with a wire brush.

[Techie79]

Thanks for the suggestion Az. Hank. That is the first thing I tried but didnt even make a scratch. That is when i tried a flat head screwdriver as a scraper and barely scratched it. This is some hard stuff.

[SCHRUMGMC]

Awesome progress man
I have everything I need for my truck, except the money to fix the rust
and hey. At least your entire top of the truck doesn't need to come off ha

Cant wait to see more progress
excellent work

[Techie79]

Thanks Schrum. Glad to hear that your project is coming along. Just have to do what I do and buy a patch panel at a time as money allows and work on all of the little things that dont require money the rest of the time and yes I am very glad the entire top of the truck doesnt have to come off. Just still trying to decide if I want to pull the roof or not to finish the filler panel or take a shortcut. While i have it off i could take care of the rest of the rust and maybe add some insulation. Hmm Decisions decisions .

[SCHRUMGMC]

I wouldn't take any short cuts.

Do it all while you can or you'll end up regretting it one day down the road

I am depressed about my trucks cab, but it'll come together eventually

[RockinKees]

You're making good progress.
I also wouldn't take any shortcuts.

As you are so "deep" in it better take the time and do it right the first time.
You'll be glad you did!!

Keep on going!!

[dug224]

Nice build...keep it up! dug

[Techie79]

Thanks everyone for the compliments and suggestions. Not a lot of progress but after some more studying and measuring I decided to trim about 1/4 inch off of each end of the replacement panel and was able to work it into place. The rust in the roof just wasn't bad enough to warrant the amount of work that it would take to pull the roof and reweld it so I just sprayed the hidden rust with some ospho and rattle can primer and installed the new panel. I hope I don't regret it later but seemed like the right thing to do at the time to keep moving. Please don't be too tough on my amateur welding skills. I am self taught and still learning as I go.








I still have a few pin holes to fill and some grinding to do on the roof panel but I decided to take a break on the cab sheet metal work and started prepping the frame for the new CPP engine and trans crossmembers that I bought a few months ago.

Here are the engine mounts that whoever did the engine swap from the straight six to the sbc put in place. Those will have to go!!


I got the old trans removed and cut the trans crossmember in half and drilled and punched out all of the rivets that held the crossmember and clutch mounting bracket in place. With 3 different size drill bits a 2 different punches and a hammer the rivets came out much easier than I expected. I also removed the factory brake master cylinder and pedal assembly and will be replacing it with a CPP firewall mounted assembly.




Between family activities, yard work, and plumbing problems I haven't had much time in the last few weeks but hopefully some progress this weekend.

[Kim57]

Brings back memories of when I started mine.
Keep at it when you can and you'll get there.
Kim

[Advanced Design]

It's pretty cool you are learning as you go and doing this metal work. High five!

[Techie79]

I've managed to get a few more hours in this weekend getting the engine and trans set in place to get the crossmembers sorted out and setting the cab back on the frame to check the fit and spacing. I am trying to see if I can use the existing drive shaft without having to shorten it but I'm still not sure it is going to work. The 700r4 that I am planning on using is about 3 inches longer than the 3 speed manual that was in it. I am wanting to go back with an HIE distributor so I was needing to move the engine forware a couple inches anyway, but now I am concerned with having enough space in front of the engine for a new radiator and electric fan combo. As it sits right now there is just over 3 inches between the points distributor and the firewall and about 7 inches between the water pump pulley and the radiator mounting surface on the core support. I am sure it will vary depending on which radiator and fan I buy but it looks like I will need about 6 inches so it will be pretty close. Any suggestions or comments are always appreciated.