Complete T5 swap thread - one way to skin the cat

[hb32]

Excellent write up jocko and will be referencing it when I get to the install.

[jocko]

Originally Posted by oldtrux

looks great man!is the new boot over the original one or in place of?also is the stick in neutral in the pics?just curious how close to seat and dash the stick is.very professional looking!

oldtrux - boot is by itself, not over the old one. The hurst shifter actually fills out inside the boot completely, an original 66 boot would not fit. I also could not fit the black rubber T5 mech sleeve simply because it rode too high up the stick, blocking the one you see from coming down enough, so I punted.

Stick was previously shown in neutral - but there is LOTS of clearance in 2/4/R. Here's 3 pics - first pic is in 3rd (fwd), last 2 are in 4th (aft).

I posted the last pic to really show the clearance, kinda hard to to tell in pic #2. There's about 5 inches of clearance between the stick and seat with the stick back in 2/4/R.

[oldtrux]

thanks jocko,looks very comfortable to drive,shift.again nice work and nice write up!happy rowingi smell a road trip!

[Crash'd Artwerks]

Very nice write up.

I did the swap in my truck, but used the Camaro main case, and S-10 tail shaft housing and top plate. I got the higher (2.95) first gear, so it's not so low geared and I don't have to immediately shift into 2nd gear.

Cruising down the highway is a breeze. One of the best things I've done to my truck so far !

As for the brakes, if you haven't already changed them, all of the rubber brake hoses were junk on my truck, and I was having the exact same problem as you are having. Also take all of the bleeders out and make sure they're not plugged up.

-Aaron

[seacat95]

I am doing my research do this swap in the spring. I cannot wait to get rid of the 3 speed! Maybe I missed it but what did you do for the driveshaft? I have been reading many posts and I know the length changes in relation to the increased length of the tranny, I have also read the yoke is different on the T5, I am really curious about the Ujoint at the axle. I have read most guys seem to use the S10 driveshaft. Great Post on the swap!!!!

[hb32]

I used a S10 driveshaft which needed a u joint to match the 55 rear and had it shortened about 6 inches.

[nachodog2]

You can shorten the stock drive shaft and have the driveshaft people install a u-joint that fits to the driveshaft and new slip yoke. A turbo 350 yoke will work, and I believe the u joint is called a conversion joint.
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[bigyellow]

Now that you've had a while to drive around with the t5 what kind of mpg are you getting? i'm starting my swap tonight after work =)

[jocko]

As for d/s and yoke - I did exactly what Nachodog mentioned - took it to a driveline shop and had them cut it and install a T5 27 spline slip yoke. Had new u-joints installed at the same time. Cost around $100. Some cut em at home, but NOT me... Doing it this way - the rear part of the driveshaft remains the same, just a stock 66 u-joint connecting to the stock pinion yoke, just like it already was.

bigyellow - excellent question and I wish I had an answer! Unfortunately, I just got my speedo working about a month or so ago. I've been chasing my tail on an electrical gremlin since then (unrelated issue - has nothing to do with the trans).

So, I can't really tell ya how much better it is. Technically, I should be using 70% of the gas I used before if all I did was drive around in 5th gear - but to be honest, around town I seldom see 5th, so probably not much improvement realized yet. BUT, the fun factor is way high - and it should do a good bit better on the highway.

EDIT - when talking to the driveline shop, make sure to remember to emphasize to them you're working on an S10 T5... I was talking "S10", but he was listening "Mustang" - kept trying to sell me a 28 spline slip yoke instead of a 27. Mustang hot rodders probably send the driveline shop more biz than we do when it comes to T5 upgrades.

[LostMy65]

Hey jocko,
Thanks for linking to this thread.
I missed it before.

[brokenspoke]

I just finished the T-5 swap in my truck....wow what a different truck.....all I have left is the speedo cable....all I could find at auto parts store was a 83 inch cable...hopefully this will work....the orginal is 63 inches...

[jocko]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Hey jocko,
Thanks for linking to this thread.
I missed it before.

you're welcome!

[jocko]

Originally Posted by brokenspoke

I just finished the T-5 swap in my truck....wow what a different truck.....all I have left is the speedo cable....all I could find at auto parts store was a 83 inch cable...hopefully this will work....the orginal is 63 inches...

I originally tried an 8" extension or something like that - didn't work because it made a ton of noise. In reality, you only need about an extra 8-10" of speedo cable, but if I remember correctly, I ended up using one a good bit longer than I needed. You should be fine. Just route it so you have the smoothest bends possible. Glad you're happy with the swap, I agree - it really does make a big difference!

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Hey Jocko I have a extra slave and the fork arm if you know of someone that could use those parts. I thought that huge fork arm was hard to get?? Anyways if needed I have em, Cover shipping and we are good.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by GMR-PERFORMANCE

Hey Jocko I have a extra slave and the fork arm if you know of someone that could use those parts. I thought that huge fork arm was hard to get?? Anyways if needed I have em, Cover shipping and we are good.

If jocko doesn't have someone on mind, I might be interested.
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[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Well I am getting the end of my build and these extra parts need to go , or I will toss them.. I am not one for hanging on to old parts just because..
I have a bunch of stuff, and once I get this all together I will post up the complete list.. Funny though I tried to give away a complete front end with all new ball joints , tie rods, upper and lower arms, cross shafts everything new or rebuilt etc, and I had Powder coated it as well.. It ended up going in the dumpster.

[jocko]

Have at it gents, I don't have anyone in mind - thanks for asking.
Sounds like lostmy65 could use it.

Slave with fork arm setup should be just for 60-62 if I'm not mistaken(?) The fork arm I used was just a plain old stock (non-slave, all mech) setup - dime a dozen - but if the fork arm is different for a slave cyl setup, then it probably is much harder to come by.

[duallyjams]

Great write up thanks.

[brokenspoke]

My T-5 had some kind of reducer on speedo connection....with GPS my speedo is 2 mph slow over actual speed...I did find a speedo cable for a monte carlo that was 75 inches......I'm happy

[CRGRS 66]

Fantastic thread, time to go hunting for an S10 T5!
Thanks Jocko

[wc63]

Originally Posted by brokenspoke

My T-5 had some kind of reducer on speedo connection....with GPS my speedo is 2 mph slow over actual speed...I did find a speedo cable for a monte carlo that was 75 inches......I'm happy

hey brokenspoke,
what year monte carlo was that from? im getting to end of my swap and want to have it ready

[CRGRS 66]

Question on output shaft. I know a f@@d guy who shortened the output shaft by 1/2", didn't use a spacer.

Could I shorten the output shaft by 1/2", and not bother with the spacer?

[RAYDAY]

why not use the 4.3 s10 bell housing and hydrolic throw out and just bolt it to the motor?

[CRGRS 66]

Originally Posted by RAYDAY

why not use the 4.3 s10 bell housing and hydrolic throw out and just bolt it to the motor?

That is a very good question. I can get a spacer from Hamilton, or shorten the output, but I think the hydraulic throw out would add to my head scratching... I think.

Jocko... ?

[jocko]

Originally Posted by CRGRS 66

Question on output shaft. I know a f@@d guy who shortened the output shaft by 1/2", didn't use a spacer.

Could I shorten the output shaft by 1/2", and not bother with the spacer?

Assume you're referring to shortening the trans input shaft. I looked at that, but what you will see is that the tip of the input shaft is the turned down section that inserts into the pilot bushing. If you simply chop 1/2" off the end, you are not really left with sufficient engagement into the pilot bushing. Some folks HAVE done this, but I would not. You also have to consider the engagement of the i/p shaft splines with the clutch. I built a cardboard mock-up in 2D to examine all the clearances and what was gonna hit what and when - main reason to do this is that the Astro Van 11" clutch and pressure plate have a slightly different stacking height than the stock 3-speed, so I was concerned about proper amount to cut off the release bearing collar, clearance between the fat stack of new clutch/pressure plate and the thickness of the release bearing (which, if purchased in the Astro Van clutch kit, all works out because it is thinner than the stock 3-speed's release bearing, this is why it all works out).