Help with no spark please

[Caddylackn]

Make sure that you intake manifold is grounded to the firewall and the firewall is grounded to the frame and your engine block is grounded to the frame.

Next time you are at the junkyard pick up an HEI module or two and keep it in the glove box for spares. Best if you grab one from a wrecked car, since you know it was functioning when the car crashed . The old factory OEM HEI modules are way better than any of the aftermarket ones.

[conoco]

Originally Posted by Luvlegs

Any chance you went from points distributor to the electronic dizzy? Meaning you changed the resistance wire out?

It had HEI when I bought the truck and just stayed with hei when I swapped.

[pjmoreland]

How did you determine there is no spark?

[pjmoreland]

When you say, "no spark", are you using that term in a general sense to mean the engine isn't starting, or did you physically confirm that the spark plugs are not sparking by using a spark checker, timing light, etc?

[conoco]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

When you say, "no spark", are you using that term in a general sense to mean the engine isn't starting, or did you physically confirm that the spark plugs are not sparking by using a spark checker, timing light, etc?

I pulled the number 1 spark plug and grounded it to the engine block and I have no spark. I also held it about .25 inches away and still nothing. I just bought a spark plug tester but had to fly back to work and didn't have time to use it. I will check when I get back. Just hope I can get it running so I can go on my fishing trip next weekend.

Was I checking for spark incorrectly? I always thought to just pull the number 1 plug from the engine, leave it attached to the spark plug wire and ground it to the engine. Maybe I did it wrong.

[72c20customcamper]

Had a similar situation . Was going to put new valve cover gaskets on the 72 . Went and washed the engine at the local car wash had the engine running and it stalled got in no start. Did all the usual things sprayed inside the cap with wd40 wipped it out sprayed all the wires checked every connection at the distributor. Got a test light no juice to the distributor. The po had put in the HEI and used a fuse in line . Well the water shorted the wire a blew the fuze 30 minutes for a 10 cent fuse.

[conoco]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

Had a similar situation . Was going to put new valve cover gaskets on the 72 . Went and washed the engine at the local car wash had the engine running and it stalled got in no start. Did all the usual things sprayed inside the cap with wd40 wipped it out sprayed all the wires checked every connection at the distributor. Got a test light no juice to the distributor. The po had put in the HEI and used a fuse in line . Well the water shorted the wire a blew the fuze 30 minutes for a 10 cent fuse.

Man I hope at this point it is that easy of a fix. I have installed alot of new parts this week lol. I will check when I get home and trace the line. If I cant get it going when I get back I am taking it to the shop after I test everything I already have 1 more time. Maybe my perspective will change a little and I will find what the heck is going on. I will say prior to this happening last week my truck was running outstanding.

[Fbks_Cruiser]

I've been thinking about your problem. If I understand, you had the same issue with the old distributor. You said you are getting power at the Batt terminal on the distributor. Exactly where are you putting the test probe of your multimeter to check that? The reason I ask is that you may have a faulty connection plugging the power wire into the distributor. Did the previous owner use an actual HEI pigtail like the first picture or is it just a crimped on connector like the second picture? I have seen it before where those generic crimped female connectors miss the terminal inside the distributor and although there is power at the connector it is not making good contact to the distributor.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by conoco

I pulled the number 1 spark plug and grounded it to the engine block and I have no spark. I also held it about .25 inches away and still nothing. I just bought a spark plug tester but had to fly back to work and didn't have time to use it. I will check when I get back. Just hope I can get it running so I can go on my fishing trip next weekend.

Was I checking for spark incorrectly? I always thought to just pull the number 1 plug from the engine, leave it attached to the spark plug wire and ground it to the engine. Maybe I did it wrong.

Sounds good.

[dmjlambert]

I suggest trace where the yellow and red wires actually go. Find out exactly where they connect in the cab and verify they don't connect to some other wire on the way to the cab, for example you don't want the power wire connecting to a white cloth covered wire in the engine wire bundle. The white cloth covered wire is a resistor wire. I've seen some cars and trucks where one wire is spliced onto another wire for a couple feet, and then spliced to yet another wire, and sometimes there are bad crimp connections, or wire nuts used, and other stuff like that.

Don't connect the tach wire to the distributor at all while trying to figure out why your distributors won't fire. Just connect the power wire. If you have a short in the tach wire or problem with the tach, or if you have a kill switch somewhere in your truck that connects the tach wire to ground, the truck won't start.

If it has a locking clip on the connector, make sure that clip is clipped onto plastic housing of the distributor. Power should come from the 12 gauge pink wire that comes from the ignition switch, or from IGN UNFUSED connector on the fuse panel. If power comes from somewhere else let us know where.

You had the plastic coil cover off for one of your pictures and you mention how you tested for voltage, but I'm not clear on exactly where or how you tested. Inside that cover you have the metal strips that run from the connectors to the coil. Use an alligator clip test wire to connect your volt meter to the metal strip closest to the firewall, and connect your power lead to the underside connector on that same strip. Verify you get voltage with the key on, and during cranking.

The negative lead of the volt meter should be connected to a good ground.

[Fbks_Cruiser]

I thought of this on my way home: I agree with dmj. Trace the wires and check the connections. Somewhere there may be a poor connection or splice. Carries enough current to see 12v on your multimeter or your test light, but not enough current for the distributor to operate.

[ga-stepside]

Originally Posted by Fbks_Cruiser

I thought of this on my way home: I agree with dmj. Trace the wires and check the connections. Somewhere there may be a poor connection or splice. Carries enough current to see 12v on your multimeter or your test light, but not enough current for the distributor to operate.

I had this problem a few years ago on my Z's LT1. It had shut off a coupe times for no apparent reason but always restarted. Then on a long trip many miles from home it died on the interstate and would not restart. Turned out to be the +12v coil wire has started to die at the connector one strand at a time so it was not capable of supplying enough current.

[conoco]

Originally Posted by Fbks_Cruiser

I thought of this on my way home: I agree with dmj. Trace the wires and check the connections. Somewhere there may be a poor connection or splice. Carries enough current to see 12v on your multimeter or your test light, but not enough current for the distributor to operate.

Thank the lord I got her started!! Been driving her the last two days and just in time for my fishing trip tomorrow!! I have no idea what fixed it but here is everything I replaced
Distributor
Spark plugs
Spark plug wires
Ignition switch
Headlight switch
New ground cable

There's gotta be something else lol. I'm really not sure what fixed it. I got home from. The arctic on Monday. And spent all night re doing everything I had already done and double checking my work. Sure as ****, she fired right up. Timed her and tuned her a little and I hope she makes it to the Kenai and back this weekend lol. Thanks for all your help brother.

[Fbks_Cruiser]

Good deal! Good luck fishing. Pictures required!

[conoco]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

I suggest trace where the yellow and red wires actually go. Find out exactly where they connect in the cab and verify they don't connect to some other wire on the way to the cab, for example you don't want the power wire connecting to a white cloth covered wire in the engine wire bundle. The white cloth covered wire is a resistor wire. I've seen some cars and trucks where one wire is spliced onto another wire for a couple feet, and then spliced to yet another wire, and sometimes there are bad crimp connections, or wire nuts used, and other stuff like that.

Don't connect the tach wire to the distributor at all while trying to figure out why your distributors won't fire. Just connect the power wire. If you have a short in the tach wire or problem with the tach, or if you have a kill switch somewhere in your truck that connects the tach wire to ground, the truck won't start.

If it has a locking clip on the connector, make sure that clip is clipped onto plastic housing of the distributor. Power should come from the 12 gauge pink wire that comes from the ignition switch, or from IGN UNFUSED connector on the fuse panel. If power comes from somewhere else let us know where.

You had the plastic coil cover off for one of your pictures and you mention how you tested for voltage, but I'm not clear on exactly where or how you tested. Inside that cover you have the metal strips that run from the connectors to the coil. Use an alligator clip test wire to connect your volt meter to the metal strip closest to the firewall, and connect your power lead to the underside connector on that same strip. Verify you get voltage with the key on, and during cranking.

The negative lead of the volt meter should be connected to a good ground.

Thank you I will do as advised.

I testing for power twice. Once with a test probe and once with my multi meter. Both my probe an meter have the standard needle points end. So I put the Red on the Batt wire and the black on the steel bolt for my master cylinder. With the key on I had the necessary voltage, But when I crank the engine the voltage would drop to 0. With the key on same thing with the test light. It showed power to both the Tach and Batt metal clips.

I also checked the OHMs before the distributor was installed. I test for low and primary resistance. Everything was with in specs from what I had read and researched.

I think that tracing the wires I might find what is going on. I should have done that first. My brain was stuck on mechanical issue because it had been running so good prior to this, it didn't occur to me that it could be wiring.

Thanks for everyone's help on this. As soon as I get her back and running I will post. If I cant find anything with the wires then i'll keep on it. Thanks again.

[Hunter757]

Did your new distributor come with a new coil or did you use your old one? You could have a bad coil, but yes you should trace the 12V wire back and look for any issues. Did you check the underside of your cap to make sure the center pin is still there that touches the rotor. Good luck, keep looking you will find the issue it just takes time.

[conoco]

Originally Posted by Hunter757

Did your new distributor come with a new coil or did you use your old one? You could have a bad coil, but yes you should trace the 12V wire back and look for any issues. Did you check the underside of your cap to make sure the center pin is still there that touches the rotor. Good luck, keep looking you will find the issue it just takes time.

It came with a new coil, before I bought and entire new distributor, I had bought just the coil from Napa. and then I had the one that came out lol. So now I have 3 coils, 2 brand new and the 1 that I always had!! All the coils have tested good when OHM testing them. It has got to be the wire somewhere. That's the only thing I can think of. With the key in the run position it has power, but as soon as I start it the voltage drops. I am thinking that it is the power line from the BATT terminal to where ever it connects, maybe it is fried or something somewhere in between. I am gonna give it one last go when I fly home, if I can fix it i'll take it into a shop!!

[schovil69]

I stopped by while you were in the arctic and got her running. Just needed fuel in the tank. lol