slamburban

[fredscarryall]

installed two 3 gallon air tanks

[fredscarryall]

installed the porportioning valve

[fredscarryall]

installed rear end and and rear brakes

[fredscarryall]

installed an old b&m trans cooler i had laying around and plumbed hard lines

[fredscarryall]

installed the air management box from airbagit.com. i didn't have alot of space, so i had to cut down the containment box and i will be mounting the air compressor infront of the rear end a little later. also cut a hole in the frame to run the air lines

[fredscarryall]

got the aluminium gas tank i found on craigslist for $100 back from the radiator shop.i had the bottom cut, brought up 3 inches and welded.also had a drain welded in and beveled the bottom so it drains better. the tank was only an inch off the ground with the air totally let out of the bags and i was affraid it would scrape. it came out of a circle track car. it measures 15 x 30 x 8,is 14 1/2 gallons and fit between the frame rails perfect.

[fredscarryall]

installed the ifs front end,rack,brakes and air bags. going to try next week to install hard lines for the air bags so i dont get any leaks

[fredscarryall]

heres a 55 truck battery box i had welded to the frame and powdercoated for a second battery just for the air compressor. will have to figure out a multi battery isolator system later on so i can charge both batteries off the 230 amp alternator

[dicer]

Looks nice. Though should have probably capped and closed all openings in the square steel tubing, as dirt and moisture will soon get in and cause rusting. A now fix since the paint is on would be to find some plastic plugs and epoxy em in.

[fredscarryall]

got alot done today. installed the lokar shifter, ebrake handle and part of the ebrake cable. the allen bolts that hold the lokar shifter where to soft and kept stripping out.so i will have to replace them with regular bolts

[fredscarryall]

also installed the gas tank,fuel pump and hard lines for the fuel.the only thing i have left is about a foot of line that goes to the carb.planning on making an access panel with a hinge and a small trunk for tools above the gas tank. the nice part about the way the frame was built and the use irs is that the rear floor board will only need to come up about two inches. but what an undertaking. word to the wise. i will never use an irs from a lincoln again. notching the frame and installing a four link,in the long run is alot cheaper and easier. although it will ride very smooth. i also found out today my rear end gear ratio is a 3.27 with limited slip. i was hoping in had a tracpac posi

[iehotrod]

It's looking good. whats the latest with the body?

[fredscarryall]

i just finished cutting the hole in my firewall were the steering shaft hangs out. i used a grommet i got out of a two inch side marker kit i got at napa for $6.00.since my steering column is bolted up under the dash i dont have to worry about it moving, i just have to have a water proof seal at the firewall.i still have to grind some metal and do some bondo work on the hole firewall.as you can see it still looks pretty rough around the steering column hole especially.

[CHIZZLER]

hey fred.i was at charlies when he was first workin on your front crossmember.i called you about buying your motor.check out my build.53 burban barn find.nice work.

[fredscarryall]

here are some pics of my gas door i did a little while back. i had a really hard time finding a all metal gas door and inlet.most of the ones i ran across in local wrecking yards were either part plastic or all plastic. i got this whole set up out of all things a 1972 capri. i finally found something a capri is actually useful for.

[fredscarryall]

got the air compressor and air lines hooked up.i found out my backflow valve leaks air. so i have to order another one from airbagit.com because the stupid thing has a metric fitting and no local store can get metric backflow valves.i put the wheels and tires on. the running boards are about an inch off the ground. still have to wire up the air management system. the instruction say plug and play. maybe i am missing something, i wish it were that easy. i'm going to work on painting my steering column and putting in my grant steering wheel with telescopic adapter this weekend. next week the body goes on the frame and i will try starting the motor.

[jmedero]

Very nice work.
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[LEEVON]

nice work. what fuel pump are you using and what did it cost?

[Frizzle Fry]

I dig it!

[fredscarryall]

leevon.

the fuel pump is something that came with the suburban.i dont think its worth you even researching. its a little loud and i believe the inlet and outlet are pretty small with the brass adapters(1/4 inch).the nice part is that it shuts off after its pressurized. so it wont keep flowing with the the truck not running and the igntion on. i'm not sure if it will give me enough volume with a 400 horse motor. i think summit racing make one thats a good price and is pretty quiet.thats more them likley the route i will go.

[Jonboy]

1/4 inch sounds really small for a 400 HP motor. Factory TBI lines are 3/8 feed, ad 5/16 return, and probably half the power. I would definitely step that up.

Cool build, though. I like the Mark VIII IRS.

[britnjc]

I hope your luck with airbagit is better than mine. The system i got from them is junk and am about to buy all new valves from air ride tech or someplace that has a history of quality equipment. I had one valve that bypassed through exhaust port always because of o ring failure and tried replacing orings and didnt help. then I had another valve stick open to always pump air to the bag. not good. for now i just put shrader valves on to get by the problem. like i said i hope yours is better but i would not recomend their products to anyone else.

[oldman3]

Been following this for awhile, just haven't posted. Very nice work, that thing should like great when you get it all together.

[50adrod]

Originally Posted by britnjc

I hope your luck with airbagit is better than mine. The system i got from them is junk and am about to buy all new valves from air ride tech or someplace that has a history of quality equipment. I had one valve that bypassed through exhaust port always because of o ring failure and tried replacing orings and didnt help. then I had another valve stick open to always pump air to the bag. not good. for now i just put shrader valves on to get by the problem. like i said i hope yours is better but i would not recomend their products to anyone else.

I have an oder that is over 3 weeks old and never shipped, thinking about canceling it, all they have are excuses. poor customer service. don't offer something for sale if you can't produce the product

[fredscarryall]

50adrod

if i could turn back the clock. i would have spent the extra money and went with air bag tech. the air bag it system in mostly made of japan made metric parts (japametric). there is a reason why they are so cheap, they have cheap quality parts. i had to remind them to ship my order.when i called them up for tech support. he kept putting me on hold to answere other calls, like ten times. when i finally talk to him he was in a big hurry to get me off the phone. he kept telling me to read the instructions and i did about 5 times before i called him. i dont think they actually have any experience. he sounded like he was reading from a book somewhere in india. i will never buy from them again.if i where you i would cancel the order and spend the extra money. if you can