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Old 07-13-2003, 12:28 AM   #26
Gee_Emm
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Todays progress, took the rockers off, trimmed up the WS header.

Next step is to sand blast the cab and repair the rocker backing plates.

The header panel is two pieces that I left spot welded together, it is just laying there, needs some more tweeking still.
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Old 07-13-2003, 08:22 AM   #27
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blazerman,the windsheild frame worked out great,i hope to post some pics soon,got the paint picked out wed,orange sherbert.my 72 sb is painted,lime sherbert,ive got a 68 thats going to be,blue sherbert.
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Old 07-13-2003, 10:11 AM   #28
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Where did you make the cut on the frame?
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Old 08-05-2003, 10:00 PM   #29
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Nothing much going on, been sandblasting everything. Got the rear suspension parts ready to paint and have both rocker backing plates ready to go in.
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Old 08-05-2003, 10:02 PM   #30
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Any ideas how to fix this up? This is my good one!
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Old 08-05-2003, 10:04 PM   #31
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Yup!

Braze, lead? Help!
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Old 08-05-2003, 10:09 PM   #32
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The aftermath, the bed isnt even in this pile yet.
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Old 08-05-2003, 11:10 PM   #33
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<-----

Finally got my helmet. i also have a few days off from work and going to practice welding. next thing you know I'll be right where you are at on the body Any work is good work unless you have to take a few steps back. Keep up the good progress!. I have this thread bookmarked to keep me on my toes.
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Old 08-06-2003, 09:18 AM   #34
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Have you ever welded on patch panels?
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Old 08-06-2003, 10:20 AM   #35
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Put it on the low setting, tack it every so often, dont weld in one spot too long it will heat up the metal and warp it. then you get to spend 2 years doign body work to only have to one day go back and redo it. On the brightside my car is blue so with all the waves it looks like and ocean.
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1970 Chevy Truck cab on a 1979 Jimmy frame-8.1 liter 496 bbc/sm465/np203-jeds doubler-np205/d60/14bff Welded/42 tsls on recentered H1s
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Old 08-06-2003, 12:26 PM   #36
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No i haven't, just heavy steel for suspension components.
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Old 08-06-2003, 01:12 PM   #37
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I have done other panels but on this cab.

I finally figured out the secret. You have to space the joints of the two panels out about 1/16 to 1/8 " don't butt them up close. It took me only an afternoon to cut out and weld in one of those backing plates and I must say that its my best work ever using my new found method.
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Old 08-06-2003, 01:28 PM   #38
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uhh Greg you forgot to add something to the scrap pile.
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Old 08-06-2003, 01:37 PM   #39
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Yeah i keep in mind on what i have read from the pro's on here when someone asked about welding. i think that was one of the tips to keep a little crack between the pieces you are trying to bring together.

Jhickson- lol

What tool do you use to grind down the welds? I got to post some of my improvement pictures. I've been using a sheet of 22 gauge steel to mess around with even though it thicker then a body panel but it works to practice.
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Old 08-06-2003, 01:39 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gee_Emm
I have done other panels but on this cab.

I finally figured out the secret. You have to space the joints of the two panels out about 1/16 to 1/8 " don't butt them up close. It took me only an afternoon to cut out and weld in one of those backing plates and I must say that its my best work ever using my new found method.
Are you making a lip on either one of the panels or just butting them up to each other? I bought a little air powered tool that makes a lip on the sheet metal. This way to will line up, as long as you dont get the metal too hot.
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1969 Chevy Project SWB Fleet, 20s, 5.3, t56, in the weeds.
1970 Chevy Truck cab on a 1979 Jimmy frame-8.1 liter 496 bbc/sm465/np203-jeds doubler-np205/d60/14bff Welded/42 tsls on recentered H1s
1998 Chevy Crew Cab K3500 SAS'd with hpd60, links and swayaway coilovers. 8.1l vortec DD/towrig



"I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me. "
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Old 08-06-2003, 01:41 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally posted by Alexis
Yeah i keep in mind on what i have read from the pro's on here when someone asked about welding. i think that was one of the tips to keep a little crack between the pieces you are trying to bring together.

Jhickson- lol

What tool do you use to grind down the welds? I got to post some of my improvement pictures. I've been using a sheet of 22 gauge steel to mess around with even though it thicker then a body panel but it works to practice.
I found that OSH sells a really cool sand paper type of grinding wheel. It makes cleaner grinds then a regular grinding wheel. Also done grind in one spot too long cuz you can warp the metal that way too.
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1969 Chevy Project SWB Fleet, 20s, 5.3, t56, in the weeds.
1970 Chevy Truck cab on a 1979 Jimmy frame-8.1 liter 496 bbc/sm465/np203-jeds doubler-np205/d60/14bff Welded/42 tsls on recentered H1s
1998 Chevy Crew Cab K3500 SAS'd with hpd60, links and swayaway coilovers. 8.1l vortec DD/towrig



"I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me. "
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Old 08-06-2003, 01:45 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally posted by jays68yak


I found that OSH sells a really cool sand paper type of grinding wheel. It makes cleaner grinds then a regular grinding wheel. Also done grind in one spot too long cuz you can warp the metal that way too.

I work at OSH, hahaha to bad they don't have a great selection of air tools.
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Old 08-06-2003, 01:47 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally posted by Alexis



I work at OSH, hahaha to bad they don't have a great selection of air tools.
but dont you get a discount at sears too?

Do you know what grinding wheels im talking about then?
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1969 Chevy Project SWB Fleet, 20s, 5.3, t56, in the weeds.
1970 Chevy Truck cab on a 1979 Jimmy frame-8.1 liter 496 bbc/sm465/np203-jeds doubler-np205/d60/14bff Welded/42 tsls on recentered H1s
1998 Chevy Crew Cab K3500 SAS'd with hpd60, links and swayaway coilovers. 8.1l vortec DD/towrig



"I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me. "
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Old 08-06-2003, 01:52 PM   #44
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no we don't get a discount at sears 

i've seen two kinds of grinder, one with a 5 inch pad and one that uses a small pad that has a thread on the back to connect to the tool. man we've hijacked this thread.....sorry Gee_Emm

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Old 08-06-2003, 02:00 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally posted by Alexis
no we don't get a discount at sears 

i've seen two kinds of grinder, one with a 5 inch pad and one that uses a small pad that has a thread on the back to connect to the tool. man we've hijacked this thread.....sorry Gee_Emm
na we just keeping it up top for him. haha
I use a 4.5 inch grinder, ill see if i can get a pic of the wheel that I use. I cant for the life of me find one on the net.
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1969 Chevy Project SWB Fleet, 20s, 5.3, t56, in the weeds.
1970 Chevy Truck cab on a 1979 Jimmy frame-8.1 liter 496 bbc/sm465/np203-jeds doubler-np205/d60/14bff Welded/42 tsls on recentered H1s
1998 Chevy Crew Cab K3500 SAS'd with hpd60, links and swayaway coilovers. 8.1l vortec DD/towrig



"I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me. "
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Old 08-06-2003, 04:16 PM   #46
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I forgot to add this earlier but another reason I am having so much success this time is due to the grinding wheels I am using,

I discovered flap wheels, they are like a regular disc with a bunch of little squares of sandpaper glued on. They are more expensive but worth EVERY penny IMO. It is way hardered to heat the metal up and the pad is kinda soft yet still ridgid so it conforms to the surface.
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Old 08-06-2003, 04:21 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally posted by jays68yak


Are you making a lip on either one of the panels or just butting them up to each other? I bought a little air powered tool that makes a lip on the sheet metal. This way to will line up, as long as you dont get the metal too hot.
A flange tool? So you would have two thickness of metal when the seam is done?

I am just butting them with a space in between.
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Old 08-06-2003, 04:27 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gee_Emm
I forgot to add this earlier but another reason I am having so much success this time is due to the grinding wheels I am using,

I discovered flap wheels, they are like a regular disc with a bunch of little squares of sandpaper glued on. They are more expensive but worth EVERY penny IMO. It is way hardered to heat the metal up and the pad is kinda soft yet still ridgid so it conforms to the surface.
Those are the ones are was talking about.
Ah heres a pic of one:
http://www.epinions.com/Shop_Tool_Ac..._36_Grit_26152
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1969 Chevy Project SWB Fleet, 20s, 5.3, t56, in the weeds.
1970 Chevy Truck cab on a 1979 Jimmy frame-8.1 liter 496 bbc/sm465/np203-jeds doubler-np205/d60/14bff Welded/42 tsls on recentered H1s
1998 Chevy Crew Cab K3500 SAS'd with hpd60, links and swayaway coilovers. 8.1l vortec DD/towrig



"I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me. "
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Old 08-06-2003, 04:29 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gee_Emm


A flange tool? So you would have two thickness of metal when the seam is done?

I am just butting them with a space in between.
you are correct. for my car it didnt matter and it was easier to weld the skins on. The only time you see it is when you look inside the trunk.

There are some pics of my sheetmetal replacement here:
http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/bc/jas...dir=/68+Lemans

none of them show the flange tho.
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1969 Chevy Project SWB Fleet, 20s, 5.3, t56, in the weeds.
1970 Chevy Truck cab on a 1979 Jimmy frame-8.1 liter 496 bbc/sm465/np203-jeds doubler-np205/d60/14bff Welded/42 tsls on recentered H1s
1998 Chevy Crew Cab K3500 SAS'd with hpd60, links and swayaway coilovers. 8.1l vortec DD/towrig



"I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me. "

Last edited by jays68yak; 08-06-2003 at 04:31 PM.
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Old 08-06-2003, 04:32 PM   #50
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i would think that could be a potential for rust though, if moisture got in between the two layers.
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