SWB 4x4 was totaled. Now what? Can I get it back?

[HO455]

It is important at this point to tell the insurance company that all future conversations will be in writing. This will prevent confusion and backtracking, or just plain lying by them. The process will be slower but it is less likely that they will cheat you. The adjuster is working for the insurance company and his/her compensation is based on how much money they save the company. They will ALWAYS come back low and try stonewall you until you give up. You don't have to threaten them with a lawyer but you need to get sound advice from a professional. It could be a lawyer, or does your state have a state insurance board or commission? They can be a great free or low cost alternative to learn and defend your rights. I know here in Oregon when you get stonewalled insurance companies usually change their tone when they hear they will have to go in front of the insurance board. Every state is different and you have the added aggravation of two states.
Good luck.

[georgieb51]

Originally Posted by HO455

It is important at this point to tell the insurance company that all future conversations will be in writing. This will prevent confusion and backtracking, or just plain lying by them. The process will be slower but it is less likely that they will cheat you. The adjuster is working for the insurance company and his/her compensation is based on how much money they save the company. They will ALWAYS come back low and try stonewall you until you give up. You don't have to threaten them with a lawyer but you need to get sound advice from a professional. It could be a lawyer, or does your state have a state insurance board or commission? They can be a great free or low cost alternative to learn and defend your rights. I know here in Oregon when you get stonewalled insurance companies usually change their tone when they hear they will have to go in front of the insurance board. Every state is different and you have the added aggravation of two states.
Good luck.

More good advice! It took me awhile to get this adjuster's email but I have it now and will do as you say and keep correspondence to email (in writing). I prefer to remain non-threatening/ non-bullying but I will continue to maintain being FIRM.

[georgieb51]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

I have a body shop and have had for 30 years. I rebuild wrecks and at times I did insurance work. I would not start off threatening to get a lawyer involved or to sue everyone over six inches tall, keep that in your back pocket for later if need be. I have found that bowing up on the adjuster or the insurance from the start normally provides less satisfaction for the customer[you]. Simply state the fact that it is widely known that the trucks aren't going down and are not being produced irregardless of their thought about value and availability. Not all companies will let the owner retain salvage. It is rare to run across this as most will like 9 out of 10 times. Also check into the salvage title laws for your state and theirs as you don't need them to brand the title . They shouldn't anyway if they never take ownership and are just paying you for damages.In my state,[AR] they aren't supposed to brand anything older than 10 model years but sometimes one slips through. I wish you good luck and I hope it all works out for you and they get right and do the right thing. Most will but it is normally a second offer kind of thing. Like I said keep the lawyer in the back pocket when they are threatened with a lawsuit starting out it seems to me to put them in a bad mood and on the offensive. Well would it do that to you if someone started out a phone call or first visit with good morning I'm gonna sue you. Now I'm not saying that one might be needed to get what is your it just seems to me from all the insurance dealings I have had in my shop and seeing customers doing things both ways it just works better to keep the lawyers on stand by instead of calling them out right out of the gate.
I know I my catch flack for that just a feeling and from things I've seen

It sounds as if you are advising me to maintain my cool and not be antagonistic. So far I have been firm but not threatening. I have a lawyer friend that I may talk to just to see how she could back me up if needed. My first contact will be with my own insurance agent (State Farm) who lives in my little town and simply ask her how things work and if I should know anything about how this works for my vehicle which is "titled" in NYS. To start with in NY anything older than 1974 does not even have a title. We just have a "transferable registration". This just means I can sell the truck to anyone by signing the back of my registration. I don't see any way they could brand a truck this old as salvage. But I am guessing my insurance agent will know. Thanks for your support!

[Dieselwrencher]

George, that is a very nice truck. Hopefully it isn't smashed up too bad. But even if it is, it's still more restorable than a truck from around here. Haha Plus the factory SWB 4x4 is what makes it so unique.

[jjzepplin]

When I totaled my Blazer they tried to tow it off to a "wrecking yard". I told them it goes straight to my house. After a short battle and the threat of the police being recalled due to theft, They reluctantly agreed. I jumped in the tow truck to make sure. After all, it was my name on the title and it was my property until I decided otherwise. They eventually sent the adjuster to my home and we agreed that I would keep the truck and they would give me low NADA value. At the time $3500. Now just take a look at NADA low value for a 1970 SWB 4x4. Best value of all of them. Upwards of $10,000. I look all the time to see how much mine could be worth. High value is $53,000. Of course that would be a very nice truck. However the fact remains that if I get swiped in this rig and the other guy is at fault-his adjuster and I will be talking about $10,000 minimum...

[special-K]

As far as the insurance company goes with their statement they can find '70 SWB K/10s all day long for that price (in same condition yours "was"), you are ready and waiting for them to provide the examples...all day long.

[georgieb51]

Originally Posted by special-K

As far as the insurance company goes with their statement they can find '70 SWB K/10s all day long for that price (in same condition yours "was"), you are ready and waiting for them to provide the examples...all day long.

Thanks for this good piece of advice. This makes them do the work. Another fellow advised doing all my correspondence via email (in writing). I think I will start doing this too.

[Moose Monkey]

Sad story but as you can tell you have a lot of good friends with a lot of good guidance. Keep the faith and your COOL. And I know it is easier to say than do. Best of luck

[georgieb51]

Originally Posted by Moose Monkey

Sad story but as you can tell you have a lot of good friends with a lot of good guidance. Keep the faith and your COOL. And I know it is easier to say than do. Best of luck

Thanks Moose. I feel a lot of support here. And I think you are right about keeping my cool. My wife is surprised how cool I am about it, but I truly don't have a lot of patience when I am getting the run-around. But if I can keep my volume level low I am doing pretty good. I have received a lot of good advice here. Thanks!

[Coley]

I hope this turns out well for you and get you either your truck back or the correct amount for it.
Lesson here tho' for everyone.....insure your truck for what it is worth or you are playing with fire when, not if, something happens.
Do not drive it without insurance or expect other people or carriers insurance to cover you off.......'if life were like that', which it isn't.

....nice looking truck by the way.

All good
Coley

[kingNothing]

I was a auto field adjuster years ago. As Hugger has said,there is no need for lawyers.Simply state you don't agree with his value on the truck. Ask how he valued your truck and why you think it is worth more.Have a printout of the N.A.D.A value. As well as any comparable trucks you can find. It is his job as an adjuster to pay fair market value.You don't want to be ripped off and he doesn't want to pay a Barret Jackson price. This is where your homework with N.A.D.A value and comparable comes in. Good luck..

[cypressbog]

That really is a disheartening thing to happen. I hope things work out how you want it.

I checked my copy of Old Cars Weekly - Price Guide and a 69-70 fleetside V-8 K10 SBx is valued at $4,300 in #4 condition and $9,680 in #3 condition.

Quote, "In general, most of the vehicles seen at car shows are in #3 condition."

#4: Quote, "This is a driver. It may be in the process of restoration or it's owner may have big plans, but even from 20 feet away, there is no doubt that it needs a lot of help."

Old Cars Weekly is Quote, "The first choice for appraisers, insurers, dealers, collectors and lenders."

[67ChevyRedneck]

Hagerty has the average value around $11,800 and I would put it between a #3 and 4 condition-wise ($6,100 #4 and $11,800 #3).

When these trucks come up, they have not been cheap.

https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuati...2_Ton?id=73721

I've found the Hagerty guide to be pretty accurate for pricing Mustangs, I think their valuation on my 65 is spot on. I mean, they actually insure these old toys, so I would believe their numbers to be near spot on.

[Boog]

Have they sent you pics of the truck after the accident yet?

[georgieb51]

Originally Posted by Boog

Have they sent you pics of the truck after the accident yet?

I haven't got any photos from the adjuster even though he said he would send them. Said they would not upload? I wonder.

[raggedjim]

Old Cars Weekly is good if your buying, but it runs low in my experience.

Good luck with this, Rg

[special-K]

Just remember, that truck is your property and you signed no agreement to do business with this company. Contracts/dealings always have two sides to satisfy. You should never allow the insurance company to call all the shots to best suit themselves. One half of the deal is a business looking at their profits and losses (not that there ever are losses, overall) then there is innocent you the victim of their policy holder's actions. It's a fight you were thrust into and it's your right to fight for the value of your property. You aren't asking them to buy your truck, you still want it.

If it gets nasty tell them you realize your truck still has a high salvage value being what it is and with the extent of damage and that they want to use that to help recoup their losses on the rest. The total picture isn't your problem and that truck is yours to decide it's fate

[georgieb51]

Originally Posted by special-K

Juat remember, that truck is your property and you signed no agreement to do business with this company. Contracts/dealings always have two sides to satisfy. You should never allow the insurance company to call all the shots to best suit themselves. One half of the deal is a business looking at their profits and losses (not that there ever are, overall) then there is innocent you the victim of their policy holder's actions. It's a fight you were thrust into and it's your right to fight for the value of your property. You aren't asking them to buy your truck, you still want it.

If it gets nasty tell them you realize your truck still has a high value being what it is and with the extent of damage and that they want to use that to help recoup their losses on the rest. The total picture isn't your problem and that truck is yours to decide it's fate

Special-K, I have always enjoyed reading what you have to say about anything. Does the "K" refer to an interest in 4x4s? About my truck, I appreciate the support and the point of view you are presenting, but I am not sure I am understanding it all. Are you saying that the insurance company is clearly "losing" money (because they have to pay out) on the other 9 vehicles and that they are trying to recoup something on mine because of the controversial nature of its value?
In general I am getting tougher as time goes by and I continue to be ignored and get the silent treatment. I am sticking to my guns about the value of my truck, I repeatedly state I am not giving this truck up, I have the title and will NOT be giving that up, and as far as I know no one can put this truck in an auction without me surrendering the title. Of course the insurance folks probably want me to surrender the title before they will pay me anything at all, but right now I am being kept in the dark by them. So for now I am basically sticking to my belief that I am keeping this truck somehow. Even the wrecking company (where my truck is now located) told me that my truck cannot be moved anywhere as long as I hold the title and that I am in control in that regard. Thanks so much for your guidance, George.

[flashed]

Have Diesel Wrencher go get you some pics ,Im sure he would be glad to help you out .

[Boog]

It could get real messy before its all said and done.
The wrecker company surely wont release any vehicles until he is paid. And the carrier still has legal possession by contract anyway.
The carriers insurance may not release any of them until they get what they want.
The carrier was paid to deliver your vehicle to NY which he hasnt so you are due a refund from them at the very least or for them to provide another carrier to complete the transport service at their expense then you work a fair settlement with their insurance company.
Lawyers may have to be involved to get a fair settlement for you.
It could take a while.
Even with Ryan willing to retrieve and hold the truck for you i dont believe that can happen due to the above reasons.
I sure hope it works out in your favor.

[Dieselwrencher]

I did go this morning and take pictures of the truck. It is no where near totaled. The owner of Barney's wasn't there but his secretary did let me view it with no questions at all. The truck is being stored inside and I'll let George decide if he wants to put the pics in the thread.

Back to the truck. In my opinion I'd be asking the insurance agent how they come to the conclusion that the truck is totaled. The canopy/topper probably saved the cab I'm guessing. The canopy took the worst of it and it probably is kaput. But, it probably could be repaired.

I was expecting to walk in to find a half smashed 1970 K10. Instead, the truck looks like the picture on page 2, except with some dents, and a partially messed up canopy. The grill did get dented up on the RH side and on the top about 5-6" away from the RH fender. Hood is ok. RH fender is dented just behind the grill pretty bad. The roof skin has some dents and creases above the passenger door, and the drip rail has a crease in it. The RH bed side has a big dent and crease, accompanied by some smaller dents in it. The canopy roof has some creases, dents, and the top is pushed over to the LH side about 1-2" or so. The cab doors still open and shut like a typical 70 chevy. The A-pillars look fine and the door gaps look like they are a normal factory gap. (Except where the drip rail is creased) The hood still opens and closes fine. The air cleaner is off the truck, (It is in the cab) but they probably did that before starting the engine to make sure it was ok to start. IMO a good sheet metal guy can save the roof skin, bed skin, and piece a front of a fender on the fender, get rid of the ugly ford mirrors, and the truck is almost back to it's formy glory.

IMO if George could get an awesome sheet metal man, like Robert (MP&C), to write an estimate of what the metal repairs would cost. Present that to the insurance adjuster and work an agreed settlement with them. I'm not certain how they do vehicles this old as far as totaled value. On the newer stuff I think the damaged value has to be 55-75% of the vehicle's value to place it in the totaled margin. I've definitely fixed worse and would drive this truck the way it is IMO again. Hopefully George can get this taken care of and make a bad situation a good one with some time.

[Overdriven]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

IMO if George could get an awesome sheet metal man, like Robert (MP&C), to write an estimate of what the metal repairs would cost. Present that to the insurance adjuster and work an agreed settlement with them.

Kudos to Dieselwrencher for helping out a fellow board member!

I agree with presenting the adjuster a settlement. These guys are used to being able to punch in a make and model to get not only undamaged value but also prices of parts, labor cost to install those parts and work up how much it'll cost to fix fairly quickly and easily. The adjuster wants business as usual, cut a check for you, and another for the tow and the storage fees, nice and easy.

Present them with a settlement that's easy and they'll likely bite. If Dieselwrencher is willing to store it and you can arrange transport to you that cuts down on their storage costs and makes it easier for them. Don't be wishy washy, be clear on the terms whatever they may be. Personally I'd tell them "I found a place it can be stored until I arrange transport. You pay for the tow there, cut me a check and it's case closed for you guys."

The other thing to remember is today's auto body climate with regards to collision repair on newer vehicles. More often than not panels are just replaced as labor costs to beat out a dent, then body fill, then prime costs too much. So work with him a bit and present the costs of a new fender, new grill, new bedside and the adjuster can add installation and paint to that cost. It doesn't matter if you end up buying new parts or fixing the originals the goal is to get him to cut a fair check for you and the storage fees.

Double check your transport contract as there might be some kind of contingency to get your vehicle to its destination in cases like this. Kind of doubt it though. If not get on the phone with your credit card company (I assume that's how you paid) and get them to reverse these charges. Good Luck!

[georgieb51]

Originally Posted by Overdriven

Kudos to Dieselwrencher for helping out a fellow board member!

I agree with presenting the adjuster a settlement. These guys are used to being able to punch in a make and model to get not only undamaged value but also prices of parts, labor cost to install those parts and work up how much it'll cost to fix fairly quickly and easily. The adjuster wants business as usual, cut a check for you, and another for the tow and the storage fees, nice and easy.

Present them with a settlement that's easy and they'll likely bite. If Dieselwrencher is willing to store it and you can arrange transport to you that cuts down on their storage costs and makes it easier for them. Don't be wishy washy, be clear on the terms whatever they may be. Personally I'd tell them "I found a place it can be stored until I arrange transport. You pay for the tow there, cut me a check and it's case closed for you guys."



The other thing to remember is today's auto body climate with regards to collision repair on newer vehicles. More often than not panels are just replaced as labor costs to beat out a dent, then body fill, then prime costs too much. So work with him a bit and present the costs of a new fender, new grill, new bedside and the adjuster can add installation and paint to that cost. It doesn't matter if you end up buying new parts or fixing the originals the goal is to get him to cut a fair check for you and the storage fees.

Double check your transport contract as there might be some kind of contingency to get your vehicle to its destination in cases like this. Kind of doubt it though. If not get on the phone with your credit card company (I assume that's how you paid) and get them to reverse these charges. Good Luck!

All good advice. I contacted the transport broker and she will set up the next ride at no additional cost. And I won't have to pay the carrier for the ride from Nevada to Iowa since they did not complete the deal. Now all I have to do is just get my truck back, get some money, arrange transport from Iowa to NYS-- and thank Ryan (Dieselwrencher) for checking everything out on the ground for me!!!

[georgieb51]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

I did go this morning and take pictures of the truck. It is no where near totaled. The owner of Barney's wasn't there but his secretary did let me view it with no questions at all. The truck is being stored inside and I'll let George decide if he wants to put the pics in the thread.

Back to the truck. In my opinion I'd be asking the insurance agent how they come to the conclusion that the truck is totaled. The canopy/topper probably saved the cab I'm guessing. The canopy took the worst of it and it probably is kaput. But, it probably could be repaired.

I was expecting to walk in to find a half smashed 1970 K10. Instead, the truck looks like the picture on page 2, except with some dents, and a partially messed up canopy. The grill did get dented up on the RH side and on the top about 5-6" away from the RH fender. Hood is ok. RH fender is dented just behind the grill pretty bad. The roof skin has some dents and creases above the passenger door, and the drip rail has a crease in it. The RH bed side has a big dent and crease, accompanied by some smaller dents in it. The canopy roof has some creases, dents, and the top is pushed over to the LH side about 1-2" or so. The cab doors still open and shut like a typical 70 chevy. The A-pillars look fine and the door gaps look like they are a normal factory gap. (Except where the drip rail is creased) The hood still opens and closes fine. The air cleaner is off the truck, (It is in the cab) but they probably did that before starting the engine to make sure it was ok to start. IMO a good sheet metal guy can save the roof skin, bed skin, and piece a front of a fender on the fender, get rid of the ugly ford mirrors, and the truck is almost back to it's formy glory.

IMO if George could get an awesome sheet metal man, like Robert (MP&C), to write an estimate of what the metal repairs would cost. Present that to the insurance adjuster and work an agreed settlement with them. I'm not certain how they do vehicles this old as far as totaled value. On the newer stuff I think the damaged value has to be 55-75% of the vehicle's value to place it in the totaled margin. I've definitely fixed worse and would drive this truck the way it is IMO again. Hopefully George can get this taken care of and make a bad situation a good one with some time.

Hello Ryan, Thanks for such a complete assessment. If you would like to post photos that would be fine with me. I guess it would be educational for all of us. Can you tell me who Robert (MPand C) is? I think you have some good ideas about what to be done so I will try to follow through and get an evaluation of repair costs. Thanks again, George

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by georgieb51

Hello Ryan, Thanks for such a complete assessment. If you would like to post photos that would be fine with me. I guess it would be educational for all of us. Can you tell me who Robert (MPand C) is? I think you have some good ideas about what to be done so I will try to follow through and get an evaluation of repair costs. Thanks again, George

George, here is a link for Robert's user profile. I'd have to say Robert is an absolute miracle worker when it comes to sheet metal, body work, and he is a great guy! PM him and maybe he can get you some numbers on fixing the sheet metal. Fixing the original stuff would be the best bet. He'll be able to tell you if the roof skin is worth repairing it or if it needs replacement. That info will help you barter with the adjuster.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...r.php?u=122218