1968 C20 Build

[dagnabbitt]

I've been puttering away at this one day a week, and have been making slow progress. Upon discovering that its 327 was seized, The 1967 GMC Custom pictured below has donated the following to the 1968 Chevrolet:

• Taillights
• West Coast Junior Mirror frames/brackets
• Cabin light cover
• Five gauge dash
• Brake and gas pedals
• AM radio
• All the deluxe dash knobs I need
• Emergency hand brake assembly and cable
• Dash vents
• Rubber door and hood stoppers
• Numerous original screws and bolts which only someone could on this site could see value in, I know, but now the 68 has no rusty "Robertson" screws in the headlight bezels, etc.

And all four original wheels: I managed to put together four other wheels out of my junk collection to keep it rolling. Three 1990 14" Mazda truck rims from a B2200 I owned 20 years ago, as well as one trailer tire I found in the ditch.

At that point, I stopped stripping it because a guy had showed up about five times to look at it, and he seemed very interested in buying it: he wanted one of "these old trucks" to restore as a hobby. He had seen it parked outside.

I ended up selling it to him for $1000 as it sat. I had all parts I needed from it already, I made a small profit on the sale, and I know that this guy is going to build it into a driver. Had he not come by to buy it I would have eventually started pulling fenders off of it and made it unbuildable.

I realized shortly after I sold the non-running GMC that this is the first time in my life that all of my vehicles have been running at the same time.

[dagnabbitt]

One of the parts I managed to pull off of the GMC was a pair of really, really poor condition West Coast Junior Mirrors. The mirrors themselves were crappy plastic replacements from the 70's which I threw away, but the armature was original to the truck. They were quite rusty, but cleaned up quite nicely.

Since the C20 had the exact same hole pattern in the doors I knew these were the same style that came with the truck, so I was pretty happy to put the time into rehabbing these arms and brackets rather than buying new. I did buy some new mirrors which matched up well. I've always really liked WC mirrors, I favor them over the more sporty style.

What I forgot was how hard it is to adjust these things, it easily took me 2 hours before I was happy. Just don't slam the door too hard or you have to do it all over again.

[dagnabbitt]

Installed a manifold gasket on the 292 today. Of course one bolt was stubborn and had to be torched off.

When I went to reinstall the temperature controls (also swiped from the GMC) I was pleased to find out that my heater and fan seem to work, although the fan probably couldn't blow out a candle. I wonder if there is something a little more powerful in the aftermarket, I would like to be able to drive this on a cold day, and maybe even in the winter.

I gave all the cables a tug to make sure that I wouldn't break my new controls, and found that the one to the heater box wasn't moving. After taking some bolts off and getting a screwdriver in there I discovered yet another mouse nest was the problem. Currently trying to figure out how to remove everything without taking of the passenger side inner fender.

[68Gold/white]

Were the drums machine-able???

[dagnabbitt]

Originally Posted by 68Gold/white

Were the drums machine-able???

The rears were pretty far gone, very deep grooves etx. It was a metal on metal situation for quite some time obviously. I suppose they could have been turned but I decided to go for new.

Front ones were worn but fine.

[dagnabbitt]

Long time without an update: the prop shaft parking brake issue really has me stymied and annoyed. Truck is ready to drive, but I just won't take it on the road without an e brake.

But, there's been a little progress here and there. With the help of a thread on the board here I manage to wire in my 5 gauge, along with the ammeter, which was challenging but rewarding.

When cleaning up under the seat and removing all the old tarpaper I found the original keys, next time I will check there first before replacing cylinders.

Also found some rather worn old 1968 hubcaps, they were the nicest ones I could afford for this project, and truth be told I still paid more than I did for the truck, lol. That was when I noticed that the E350 wheels I have on the truck are the later, "nubless" kind. Oh well, I will figure something out.

[dagnabbitt]

I've been making some progress, sort of, on the Propeller Driveshaft Brake. I think I might have a working park brake eventually. It has been very interesting to research this and figure it out.

Story of that search is here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=795405

Thought I would post my build sheet from GM: as many probably know an advantage - possibly the only one - of having a Canadian built truck is access to this stuff. Upon googling the dealership I was surprised to see that they are still in business, and even more surprised that they haven't changed their-not-at-all catchy name.

https://www.gslgmcity.com/

That's two Calgary trucks I have now. For those unfamiliar with "Mandatory Canadian Equipment": it's only a block heater... as far as I can tell.

One of the things I have been looking for is a blue fleetside woodbed, the black donor bed I have on it right now makes it look like a truck, but sort of the way that Frankenstein ('s monster) looks like a man. I have almost bought one or two now, but they got away from me.

[LT7A]

From here, it sure looks like you could get the paint matched from the cab and fenders, and use it on the bed. Single stage, matte. Let it weather a little bit and just have yourself a rough and ready 3/4 ton.

In planning to start a build thread myself, I got to thinking that the name of the build thread doesn't have to actually be the name for the truck. But it might be my idea of the direction the build will head. And along the way, a name for the truck might bubble to the surface. I think you could call yours Jerry Springer, for one idea, since the suspension is unusual.

[dagnabbitt]

Originally Posted by LT7A

From here, it sure looks like you could get the paint matched from the cab and fenders, and use it on the bed. Single stage, matte. Let it weather a little bit and just have yourself a rough and ready 3/4 ton.

In planning to start a build thread myself, I got to thinking that the name of the build thread doesn't have to actually be the name for the truck. But it might be my idea of the direction the build will head. And along the way, a name for the truck might bubble to the surface. I think you could call yours Jerry Springer, for one idea, since the suspension is unusual.

Haha, that is a pretty good name. I think the matte blue paint is a good idea, I will likely try something like that.

[lil hoodlum]

subscribed.

I also have a 1968 C20, but mine is an anniversary 50th custom camper. Originally came with a 327 and 4 speed transmission. 327 is long gone and a 1972 350 resides in the engine compartment.

I clinked on your link of your build thread from your posting about restoring your hubcaps.

[dagnabbitt]

Originally Posted by lil hoodlum

subscribed.

I also have a 1968 C20, but mine is an anniversary 50th custom camper. Originally came with a 327 and 4 speed transmission. 327 is long gone and a 1972 350 resides in the engine compartment.

I clinked on your link of your build thread from your posting about restoring your hubcaps.

Great! I love the 50th anniversary trucks, though I have never seen one in person. I wonder how popular they were, it's kind of a cool thing for GM to do for truck owners in 1968.

[dagnabbitt]

It's been awhile, I have a couple updates.

First of all when I discovered that the rims I had blasted and painted had no hubcap nubs I was kind of bummed out until I realized that those would look good on my 72 GMC, which I was going to outfit with conversion nuts and modern hub covers. So that is what I did. They are now satin black and awaiting the modern touch.

A friend of a friend who was restoring a 70s Ford supplied the below rims, which do have provisions for hub covers. Blasted and powdercoated an "antique" white color, they look pretty sharp. In fact I get thirsty because it is like looking into a bowl of milk.

I have some driver quality 69-72 hubcaps for these, but after all this fooforah I might go with conversion lugs nuts on this one, too. I have a set, anyway. We will see. I also pulled my new Firestones off of this truck and put it on the 72 since that one is already a driver.

[dagnabbitt]

I have decided I am going to try my hand at rocker and cab corner repair. I am going to try to epoxy them all in, as I am a mediocre welder at best: but a slightly less mediocre epoxyer.

Project creep is setting in. I needed to pull the fender off to get to the rockers. Couldn't get all the bolts, though. So I took the inner fender with it. Also needed to remove the cowl and the hood. This is a great time to look at that heater box etc, I thought. So I ended up with the below result.

[dagnabbitt]

Also for how easy it is to remove the cowl - and how much stuff there is in there - I think that doing so should practically be part of regular maintenance on these trucks. Below, the 2-3 pounds of pine needles and topsoil before I removed it. I will be installing a screen when I put it back on.

I also need a new antenna, the one I have is trashed.

[dagnabbitt]

So one of the things I have to decide is if I want to put new 67 fenders on the front, or cut side marker lights into the rear. Basically, do I want this truck to look like a 67 or a 68.

I actually have new 67 fenders all ready for it but it kind of bothers me that I would be misrepresenting it as a 67... and I am leaning towards instead adding the side markers to the rear and keeping it an authentic 68. They place I bought the front 67 fenders from would probably let me trade them for 68s, so no problem there.

Concerned readers who might worry that I am cutting marker lights into a really nice original 67 box need not fret: it is not that nice. I would have to find a template in the forums somewhere, if someone has done this before I would appreciate the advice!

[3757chevy]

I bought a truck that had been parked for awhile and had the cowl full of debris. Not good. I just glad it hadn't got a lot of moisture in the mix .

[Mustard72]

Originally Posted by dagnabbitt

Project creep is setting in. I needed to pull the fender off to get to the rockers. Couldn't get all the bolts, though. So I took the inner fender with it. Also needed to remove the cowl and the hood. This is a great time to look at that heater box etc, I thought. So I ended up with the below result.

Boy, now you've done it!

[dagnabbitt]

Yep. Now the entire front end is off. I drove it outside today, doused it in degreaser and spent over an hour pressure washing the engine, undercarriage, and inside the cab. It was pretty satisfying. Unbelievably I did not get all of it, I will need to take a putty knife to the oil pan for example.

[dagnabbitt]

One thing I managed to do was expose some casting numbers. I suspected that this is not the original 292, but maybe a later 70's one... but a google search of 3851859 tells me that it is a 1963-1972 292. So, I thought, it must be original!

Then I run the other numbers: Conveyor 2, cast on May 4, 1964. Is it possible that this block was cast 3-4 years before it was put in the truck?

Also, would this green paint be original? EDIT: After a search I suppose it would be, for a 1964 Engine. I will buying some Krylon #2013, I guess.

[dagnabbitt]

And finally, the coup de grace is the elusive handbrake. Thanks to BigBird for sending it to me (the Customs people must have been baffled when they opened the box and inspected it).

It needs some adjusting, but the brake is fully operational. Problem is, the handle is too long and at the moment is up against the dash when not engaged.

I believe it as from a 60-66 truck, but I am wondering if perhaps it is from a big truck, one that has a greater distance between the top of the trans and the dash. Wondering if there is a shorter one available somewhere.

[Warrens69GMC]

Nice progress.

[dagnabbitt]

I had a fun Saturday, I removed the rad support - it needs some metal repair where it sat under the battery - as well as a broken body mount. Oh and a flimsy crossmember thing as well, it was under the rad, looks like someone tried to tow the truck with it and ripped it half off.

For the body mount I used a grinder to get at what I could, and then when it was pretty hot, an air chisel. Worked great. I have a new one arriving (along with a whole bunch of parts for this build) sometime hopefully this week. Of course, as soon as I ordered a new one a used one showed up on the parts board, that seems to happen to me often.

[dagnabbitt]

Before I removed the heater assembly I vacuumed a couple of pounds of mouse nest out of it, then as I removed it a couple more pounds fell out. Upon shaking it, yes: another couple of pounds fell out. When I got it home and took it apart, I discovered even more. I am not easily grossed out, rodents do not bother me, but I have to be honest it was disgusting. It has been disassembled and is soaking in a tub of soap and hot water.

When it is clean enough, I have to patch two holes that are in the side of it. I am in the process of sort of restoring a fibreglass trailer so I think I am actually pretty good at working with the stuff. We will see.

I have a new squirrel cage, blower motor, and all the necessary rubber seals for this job. One thing I do not have is the door that swivels inside, it is rusted beyond repair. I can't find any in the aftermarket, will have to post a WTB for it. Hopefully somebody has one.

The heater core itself seems like it is ok... the only test is to see it it leaks, right? I feel like I should replace it since everything is apart but I need to save a few bucks wherever I can.

[dagnabbitt]

Arriving this week is the cheapest NOS part I have ever bought, this handbrake boot on ebay which was $12, and another $12 in shipping. Some time ago I picked up a NOS retainer for it, in hopes that I would find the boot. I am sure I paid a hundred Canuck bucks for that one, so good deal for me, finally.

It is possible that it was cheap because it is so old and brittle that it will fall apart in my hands, I will be looking into ways to preserve that rubber. I am afraid to use tire conditioners on it cause many of those just make the rubber look nice for a week while leeching the moisture out.

[68Gold/white]

Originally Posted by dagnabbitt

So one of the things I have to decide is if I want to put new 67 fenders on the front, or cut side marker lights into the rear. Basically, do I want this truck to look like a 67 or a 68.

I actually have new 67 fenders all ready for it but it kind of bothers me that I would be misrepresenting it as a 67... and I am leaning towards instead adding the side markers to the rear and keeping it an authentic 68. They place I bought the front 67 fenders from would probably let me trade them for 68s, so no problem there.

Concerned readers who might worry that I am cutting marker lights into a really nice original 67 box need not fret: it is not that nice. I would have to find a template in the forums somewhere, if someone has done this before I would appreciate the advice!

Put the front 67 tenders on it and drive it!! Who cares!!!??? Your other pickup has a diesel unit, who cares!!