Lowering Regrets

[Overdriven]

Originally Posted by cebra

I removed the front bumps, I had maybe a finger gap with the bumps. It is clanging a lot more now...reverberating like hitting a gong. The rear is sitting on the bumps so I couldn't get those out yet but it is bottoming out in the rear so I know my options there (raise it or c-notch it).

I’ve read about others running or recommending Belltech shocks but they never mentioned having to space them out from the frame. If your clanging is worse now without the bump stops that means the bump stops we’re hitting first, slowing down the suspension movement and absorbing some of the impact. Changing the spindles will have no effect on this problem.

I recommend pulling a wheel and jacking up the truck to ride height by the lower suspension arm as close to the spindle as you can. Measure the shock from center of each bolt and write it down, remove the shock, fully compress it and measure again, let us know what the measurements are. Also take a pic of the spring and note how much space is between the coils. Spring is most likely the culprit but it doesn’t take much to check the shock as well.

[67ChevyRedneck]

I stated with the same drop you did, 4.5/6 and I thought the nose was too low, I didn't like it. I added a 3/8" spacer to the front spring.

You don't have to remove anything on the front control arms with your drop, just trim the bump stops. Trim rear as well.

Put 15's back on. With the 2.5" spindle you will have to trim the A-Arm a bit.

I was unhappy with mine until I put a better quality shock on the truck. Much better. Still doesn't ride as good as stock on "crappy roads" but for the most part, I can't tell the difference anymore.

Originally Posted by cebra

I removed the front bumps, I had maybe a finger gap with the bumps. It is clanging a lot more now...reverberating like hitting a gong. The rear is sitting on the bumps so I couldn't get those out yet but it is bottoming out in the rear so I know my options there (raise it or c-notch it).

It sounds like a lot of your issues are with the the CPP springs? I didn't have any of those issues with my Early Classic Enterprise (ECE) kit.

Also make sure you got the front springs inside the pocket. The coil does have a spot it's supposed to sit in top and bottom.

[rjs53]

Before buying 4 new 15' wheels if that's your plan. Check and make sure they fit. I put 2.5" drop spindles on mine and the wheel rubbed the tie rod. I know others have had the same issue, so its common.

[lolife99]

15” wheels that rub tie rods or the lower a-arm is directly related to the wheels backspacing. To talk apples and apples you have to compare that number also.
Usually a 3.5” bs on a 15” wheel clears fine. A 4” or greater bs on a 15” wheel causes some clearance issues.

[rjs53]

Originally Posted by lolife99

15” wheels that rub tie rods or the lower a-arm is directly related to the wheels backspacing. To talk apples and apples you have to compare that number also.
Usually a 3.5” bs on a 15” wheel clears fine. A 4” or greater bs on a 15” wheel causes some clearance issues.

Great point! I would hate to see the guy buy wheels thinking he could go wider and run into another obstacle.

[67ChevyRedneck]

I trimmed mine. Up front I have a 15x7 with what I think is 3.5-4" BS, can't remember (the 15x8s i had with 4.5" BS definitely did NOT fit).

I was afraid to at first, but a bunch of other members talked me into it. Almost 4 years later truck is fine still.

[michael bustamante]

i did everything the OP did on my truck and no issues at all. but I am running 15`s. I can see how 20`s could be a problem feeling every bump. what manufacturer springs did you use?
just read. CPP that might be an issue. they sell Chevelle rear springs as 4" lowered truck rear springs. softer mushier ride for sure. iu used POL. good stuff

[michael bustamante]

Originally Posted by rjs53

Before buying 4 new 15' wheels if that's your plan. Check and make sure they fit. I put 2.5" drop spindles on mine and the wheel rubbed the tie rod. I know others have had the same issue, so its common.

I have 15x7 with 245 70 15s.. no rubbing. now 15x8 on a drop spindle? that would be too close for comfort

[cebra]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Can the OP of this thread post some suspension pics?
It sounds like you are hitting the bumpstop metal stand now.
That's why I say remove them.
Also CPP springs have been known to sag way too soon.
Removing your drop spindles will not solve this issue.

Also,... why can't you put your rally wheels on now?

I am going to get in there this weekend and will post some pics. The 15" rallye wheels drag on the knuckles for the tie rods of the spindles. Over a 30 mile drive it ate away the whole inner lip (where you would put on wheel weights) on both front wheels.

[cebra]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

I stated with the same drop you did, 4.5/6 and I thought the nose was too low, I didn't like it. I added a 3/8" spacer to the front spring.

Where did you get the spacers you mention? Weighing a lot of options and I can't clear 45 series tires in the front now as they are too far in the fenders but if I had another 1/2" or so I could.

[cebra]

Yeah, the springs seemed to have sagged a lot. I have 4" from control arm to control arm and 3" axle to frame. My tires in the front are nervously close to hitting the fender in a turn if any bumps are hit.

[demian5]

Originally Posted by 67_C-30

I hated my first lowered truck until I removed the bump stops as well.

I put 3" springs in front and 3" springs in rear with 1" block. I cut both stops in half and have had a pretty decent ride. The 70 series 15" tires really help with the ride as well.

[HO455]

If there is play in the lower control arm bushings you can get loud clangs and bangs from the front end. Lift the front end and compress the front springs enough (use a coil spring compressor)so the preload from the spring is removed from the lower control arm. Then try to move the arm around with a large dead blow hammer. You should not be able to see the arm move around when you hit it.

[68Stepbed]

Originally Posted by cebra

Front:
CPP 2" Springs
McCaughy 2.5" Spindles
Belltech shocks (these fit like crap btw they are too fat so they have to be spaced out significantly from the frame)

Rear:
CPP 5" springs
CPP adjustable trac bar
CPP shock relocators
KYP Gas a just shocks

I highlighted your issues in red. I've never been happy with Chinese Produced Products.

[68Stepbed]

Originally Posted by cebra

If I put stock spindles back on the front so I can run 15" Rallyes (I like the Rallye wheels much better than my 20's) and keep the lowered springs, I wonder if it will still clang constantly or if the taller sidewall will help absorb cracks/bumps better? I can't run 15" Rallyes on my lowered spindles (they drag really bad) and I think SWB at stock height look tall/short.

The springs are the issue. They obviously don't fit right or too short. The spindles retain factory geometry, but just raise the mounting point of the hub. Putting stock spindles on with the current springs won't fix the bottoming out and clanging issue.

[cornerstone]

My recommendation is to change the front spring, sell the 20’s, (only because you said you like the rallies better) and buy 17” rallies with a lot taller side wall. I can’t remember what exact size you currently have in front, but you get the idea... I love this tire size comparison website. I use it pretty often. If you had another 2 inches of sidewall I think your ride would be way better.

[siggyfreud]

I second or third the idea of going with new front springs, stock height or lowered. I went with CPP spindles because they're one of the only games in town, but otherwise I avoid their stuff.

Most foreign springs are made from 1 of two factories, and they're not always precise, both in height and stiffness.

Grab something like a hotchkis spring if you are buying replacements.

[cebra]

Originally Posted by 68Stepbed

I highlighted your issues in red. I've never been happy with Chinese Produced Products.

I think you are on point, I walk out in the morning and it just keeps settling further and further. I have coils in the rear completely collapsed and laying on the trailing arm.

[siggyfreud]

Can try taking some photos and getting your money back, but CPP's customer support is notoriously bad, so I wish you luck with that .

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by cebra

it just keeps settling further and further. I have coils in the rear completely collapsed and laying on the trailing arm.

Yep those springs are crap... on the bright side new set of quality springs aren’t that much money and they may give you the ride and height you’re looking for. The expensive alignment is a bummer though.

[68Stepbed]

Originally Posted by cebra

I think you are on point, I walk out in the morning and it just keeps settling further and further. I have coils in the rear completely collapsed and laying on the trailing arm.

www.earlyclassic.com You won't be disappointed again.

I had the 4.5/6.75 drop on my truck before with ECE parts on 17" tires. I never had any real complaints with ride or handling. Due to the nature of driving a lowered truck, there were certain speed bumps and driveways I had to be careful on, but no more than with a car of any sort.

[demian5]

i lowered a 60 with torsion bars with drop spindles and 4" rear springs. It rides nice but is kinda rough, Guess its the 22" steel wheels with the rubber bands for tires.

[cebra]

From what I am gathering I could use 15x7 Rallye wheels on the front and they would clear my drop spindles? I assume I was running 15x8 but I never measured them before I sold them as I didn't know there was a 7 and 8" wide version. I do know the inner lip of the wheel drug badly on my spindle where the tie rod connects. I also had 255/70/15 tires all around but I am not so sure that means I had 8" wheels as a myriad of tires fit any wheel.

Anyways, I am thinking then I can go back and collect all the components of Rallye wheels (tires, caps, trim rings, rims) in a 15x7 front and 15x8 rear. Then I can put stock springs on the front and 3" springs on the rear (ECE not CPP) and I should have some decent functionality back.

I wonder what the value is on a set of 20" wheels/tires with a couple hundred miles on them are...the potential loss on this makes my stomach turn.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by cebra

From what I am gathering I could use 15x7 Rallye wheels on the front and they would clear my drop spindles? I assume I was running 15x8 but I never measured them before I sold them as I didn't know there was a 7 and 8" wide version. I do know the inner lip of the wheel drug badly on my spindle where the tie rod connects. I also had 255/70/15 tires all around but I am not so sure that means I had 8" wheels as a myriad of tires fit any wheel.

Anyways, I am thinking then I can go back and collect all the components of Rallye wheels (tires, caps, trim rings, rims) in a 15x7 front and 15x8 rear. Then I can put stock springs on the front and 3" springs on the rear (ECE not CPP) and I should have some decent functionality back.

I wonder what the value is on a set of 20" wheels/tires with a couple hundred miles on them are...the potential loss on this makes my stomach turn.

I had a '68 Buick Skylark that I sold many years ago. I still regret the money spent/lost on that thing, but to be honest, cutting my losses was the best option, when I consider how much more I would have had to spend to make it all the way restored. At some point, you have to decide what you have is worth to you.

[67ChevyRedneck]

The coil springs front and rear should only be around $250 total. I wouldn't toss your wheels and tires yet. Try out the new springs before swapping everything out.