72 blazer ls swap

[black_k5]

I also tried the transfer case side mount but it is was off. Keegan yours looks like it is taller. I have pictures of what mine measures if anyone has one that they can verify if this is the wrong mount.

[A1971Blazer]

Thanks...much appreciated...!
I think I have a TC mount from a '71 if I can find it....I will measure it. I'm using a NP241 TC so I won't need it.

[71meangreenc10]

Originally Posted by black_k5

Your not hijacking, as all the questions you want. I also could not find that info. I started my own mounts then gave up. So it was easier for me to reference the head. With a straight edge laying on the frame and touching the rear mounting bolt webbing on the block, the head is slightly over an inch. I'd say 1 1/8"

I also took a picture of the gas tank to axle spacing so show why the original gas tank brace gets moved back.

Are you planning on cutting the filler neck?

Smitty

[black_k5]

To be honest I haven't thought that far. I was hoping the factory hose would connect to the tank. Maybe Keegan can tell someone how he did it.

[71meangreenc10]

Originally Posted by black_k5

To be honest I haven't thought that far. I was hoping the factory hose would connect to the tank. Maybe Keegan can tell someone how he did it.

If you mounted the tank just to the bottom of the frame, I think you are going to have issues with the neck hitting the body floor unless you put spacers in on the body mounts. I put in a 2 1/4 drop on mine so the neck clears the body. Once I finish mocking it up I will post on my build. Some people cut their filler necks on the tank to make up for it. Old tank and new one has a different neck size also.

Smitty

[1rippen6]

Yea I would say yours is short

[GMC-YA68]

Originally Posted by 71meangreenc10

If you mounted the tank just to the bottom of the frame, I think you are going to have issues with the neck hitting the body floor unless you put spacers in on the body mounts. I put in a 2 1/4 drop on mine so the neck clears the body. Once I finish mocking it up I will post on my build. Some people cut their filler necks on the tank to make up for it. Old tank and new one has a different neck size also.

Smitty

Correct - I sandwiched my tank in so it would go any further "up" or that would have been the case. I also ended up putting some brackets between the two crossmembers to aid this even more. They run the same way as the frame. For the filler hose, I just double hose clamped the hell out of both ends. Someone showed me a link to some flared hoses at one time but I don't have it anymore.

[black_k5]

OK I know it's been awhile since I've posted. I now have the brakes plumbed in, axles painted, brakes rebuilt and the fuel system roughed in.

Fuel system:
87 blazer tank and sending unit
Acdelco ep381 fuel pump with sock (can be ordered from a 95 s10)
Dorman 3/8" poly lines and connectors
Dorman 5/16" poly lines and connectors
Tanks fuel filter FF-10 (summit TNK-FF-10)
Dorman 3/8 and 5/16 steel line

Like most people have done I used the 87 blazer gas tank with the baffles. I showed in an earlier post how I modified the 87 sending unit by cutting off the flare nut, swagging the adapter lines and brazing them together with 45% silver braze. After some paint I installed the Acdelco fuel pump which fits right in the basket. After much searching at the local auto parts store I found summit was the only place I could find a 3/8" in and out fuel filter and it comes with a mounting bracket. Also since this is the first time I've used the poly fuel lines, I wrapped the lines with braided wire loom to help prevent it from rubbing through. As for installing the ends on the poly lines I did not want to purchase the install tool to do 6 fitting so I used the caulk gun method. Do some experimenting with it as I found it necessary to move the flare block a few times to make one fitting.

[black_k5]

Since the frame is almost as far as it can go it was time to disassemble the truck. Once my buddy's lift frees up I will be pulling the body off.

P.s when I bought this true it was advertised as fully restored. I guess restored is a loose term

[hemi43]

How do like those poly lines? I'll definitely use them again.

[black_k5]

I like them, they are very quick and easy to install! Plus the fact that they will never rust out. I was a little worried about them rubbing through but hopefully the wire loom will eliminate that issue. Thanks for the suggestion

[hemi43]

For what it's worth. For extra safety, I also tie wrapped the quick disconnects on the feed and return lines at the engine's fuel rail. I din't want to rely solely on the plastic clip to hold the line on, because it if should ever pop off with the engine running it could cause a fire. Just peace of mind IMO.

[DemkoG]

I ran the poly line in my LS Wagoneer swap. You are correct to secure the ends, They will not take any dangling load off the fuel rail. In a rush to get it on the road I did not secure the fuel line to the fire wall maybe 18-24 inches and it popped off maybe 18-24 inches. luckily no fire. I went AN fittings from the fuel rail to the filter Then ploy to the tank. As fair as the filter goes The C5 vett filters have a built in regulator witch makes life easier running one one line to the motor.

[black_k5]

Last Wednesday I drove the blazer over to my buddies house and took the the body off the fame. After a week of scraping all the undercoating and grease off the bottom of the truck and to my surprise no rust in the floor boards, just the rocker boxes. I painted the bottom with por 15 for protection.. After stripping the firewall I learned how to paint with single stage paint. I think it turned out pretty nice. Put the body on the new frame today but stI'll needs to be bolted down. As Smitty and Keegan said I did have to space the gas tank down. I found a piece of 1" square stock aluminum and installed it as a spacer. I tried to picture it before I set the body fully down. Sits a little high but I think it will look good with the top off. I may need new taller garage doors now.

[black_k5]

Well I figure it's about time I update this build. After having a busy spring the blazer did not get done by my estimated time of memorial day but I did have it running by the 4th of July.

So because of time I opted for a wiring harness from bp automotive. This harness is layed out very nice with all wires labeled. The only thing I would suggest is calling to place the order instead of doing it online. I ended up with the wrong injector connectors due to not knowing it was a flex fuel motor. I ran the harness through the firewall behind the passenger side fuel rail and made a bracket (shown) that allowed me to mount the computer and fuse panel right under the glove box.

As for the throttle cable, I used the one off the suburban and it fits great. You will barely have to ream the hole in the firewall and then just make a slot in the gas peddle for the cable to slide into it. I also used the lokar shifter linkage which took a lot less time to install than expected.

I reused the stock radiator that was in the blazer and uses the radiator hoses off the suburban. I trimmed a few inches off the lower one. Also I drilled and tapped the water pump to connect the steam ports to.. As for fans I bought a 2004 grand cherokee fan and put it into the stock shroud. Note that the 2000 to 2003 are single speed and the 2004 is a 2 speed motor. I have yet to have it bring on high speed.

The cold air intake was a part I found at a swap meet. I believe there's a part number on it if anyone's wants me to lookeep but I know it was for a carb setup. Then just a filter and boots from summit.

[black_k5]

Sorry not sure why the one picture is upside-down . New carpet was installed along with some insulation

[black_k5]

Now with the top off the new softtopper was fitted. It's 90% done at this point but I think inner fenders are optional lol. Once I get it cleaned up I'll take some better pictures.

[71meangreenc10]

Good work brother!

Smitty

[Blazerowner]

Did you install the DD engine crossmember forward to accommodate the overdrive? I ask because I am installing a 4l80e with an ls3 and definitely have to come forward with mine to keep the tcase in the stock position.

[black_k5]

Ya the engine has to move forward due to the transmission being longer I believe. I did a few mockups with mounting the t-case where it belongs to see where I needed to drill for the new crossmember. I can take a measurement if you would like, just let me know.

[Blazerowner]

A measurement would be great. Did you simply slide the engine forward on the mounts or did you slide the crossmember forward? Since I’m going with a 4l80e/np205 in mine I am probably going to be moving the engine another 3-4” forward compared to the 4l60. I went this route for the reputation the 4l80 has to hold up to higher horsepower since I’m using an ls3 for my build. What did you go with for headers/manifolds? Any pics of the setup?

[GMC-YA68]

That is awesome. Love the setup and wheels

[boynton]

Do you have any photos of what you did with your brake lines?

[preciador6]

Running adapters on them new style wheels?