1970 C10 ChassisFab Build Thread

[nicklear36]

Clean, clean, and clean some more. Gonna spray these all with ospho and then epoxy prime everything together.

This Evaporust stuff is no joke! Wish I could dunk the whole truck in it

[Stickman]

Looking good.

[clay68c10]

That stuff is amazing. I didn’t believe it till I used it myself.
Nice progress

[nicklear36]

Parts got a little Ospho bath. I will let this coat sit for awhile to cure. Then, I will reapply the Ospho, quickly pressure wash each part, and dry. The parts will then be ready for epoxy primer and underhood satin black.

[jjzepplin]

Your doing great! This is going to be a very nice truck! Does your frame cut down area seem strong?

[nicklear36]

Originally Posted by jjzepplin

Your doing great! This is going to be a very nice truck! Does your frame cut down area seem strong?

Appreciate it! The ChassisFab C notches are very very thick metal, much thicker than the original frame. I had a mobile welder come and do the frame so I'm confident in its strength.

[Basketcase889]

following along! Found this while searching for chassis fab reviews posts on here!

[PowerdbyChevy79]

subscribed

[sakustoms]

Looking good. I noticed the track bar is not adjustable. Do they set up their rear suspension so the rear diff is centered at ride height? I've done a couple air ride setups with parallel 4 link and track bar and the track bar is usually adjustable for that purpose.

[nicklear36]

Originally Posted by sakustoms

Looking good. I noticed the track bar is not adjustable. Do they set up their rear suspension so the rear diff is centered at ride height? I've done a couple air ride setups with parallel 4 link and track bar and the track bar is usually adjustable for that purpose.

Hey this is a great point you bring up. I was bummed that the track bar and pinion angle is not adjustable. I set the vehicle at ride height and centered the diff before welding in. Realistically, the track bar could be cut in half and threaded to make it adjustable. The rear diff is at ~3 degrees of pinion angle, so I will have to manipulate the two-piece driveshaft angle and the motor/trans. I foresaw this when the the diff was welded in place but I got it in the ballpark I feel like.

[sakustoms]

Originally Posted by nicklear36

Hey this is a great point you bring up. I was bummed that the track bar and pinion angle is not adjustable. I set the vehicle at ride height and centered the diff before welding in. Realistically, the track bar could be cut in half and threaded to make it adjustable. The rear diff is at ~3 degrees of pinion angle, so I will have to manipulate the two-piece driveshaft angle and the motor/trans. I foresaw this when the the diff was welded in place but I got it in the ballpark I feel like.

With air ride you have a little leeway when it comes to pinion angle, especially with a 2 piece D/S. When I did an 83 S10 with a 2 piece I concentrated more on making sure the angles between the trans and front driveshaft were correct since I knew that I would be playing with the ride height and my rear DS to diff angles would be changing.

Can't wait to see this project completed. My 69 has a M2 front end and coilovers all around but I'm thinking about swapping to air.

[Basketcase889]

any updates?

[nicklear36]

Keeping me on my toes, I appreciate the motivation from this group! Here's some status updates:

1) I built some wood blocks to get the frame off the ground. The frame moves around pretty well on the Harbor Freight rollers!

2) Engine is back from the builder! It is now a 357 with aluminum intake and Brodix IK heads. I am waiting for some parts to arrive so I can smooth the block with fillable polyester primer and shoot it with orange and clearcoat. Once I finish painting it we can drop the engine/trans in the frame and then route the exhaust. I'm debating with myself whether or not to get a Gear Vendors overdrive unit to pair with the TH350. TH350 is freshly rebuilt and a great transmission so I would like to keep it.

Plus a cat tax for those interested.

[nicklear36]

ThermAC delete and some block work before filler primer

[nicklear36]

Engine painted, and got the decals installed. Just needs a clearcoat!

[MS66]

Nice build.
Are those original early style rocker covers, or reproduction?

[zicc1835]

Looking real good …. Drag see more on that ?I know I thought mine was close but it all lined up and clears the pan

[nicklear36]

It hits the very front tip of the oil pan just before tightening the pitman arm nuts. I've been looking at Hotchkis center link/drag link since it doesn't have as much of an arch as the stock link. I think it would help clear the pan.

[zicc1835]

Your motor mounts are in the forward position ? Mine are in the rear position

[zicc1835]

Here’s one looking at the drag link it’s gray and my oil pan is metal color

[zicc1835]

I read back through your and you moved your steering up two inches ....utoh

[nicklear36]

Interesting, I don't know the history of why some mounts would be in the front position and some in the rear. Looking at the rear position though that might work 🤔. I'd have to get some new mounts

[68 C10 Driver]

Great build going, outstanding work! I just started the frame teardown this month. I have the front apart, just need to remove everything in the rear. I am sure going through my share of PB Blaster on the frame disassembly.

[nicklear36]

Originally Posted by 68 C10 Driver

Great build going, outstanding work! I just started the frame teardown this month. I have the front apart, just need to remove everything in the rear. I am sure going through my share of PB Blaster on the frame disassembly.

Thank you! I don't miss that step, I had wire wheel pieces in my shins for days

Doing it outside is a must, these frames are filthy.

[loudchevy]

Good progress. That 4 link rear is a very nice setup. Love that Teal color too.

Originally Posted by nicklear36

I had wire wheel pieces in my shins for days

I still randomly find them stuck in my garage clothes from my last wire wheel endeavor from weeks ago.