Need info on some Things for LS swapping 67 c10

[67chevy1series]

I have a couple questions, they may be stupid but just wondering if yiur supposed or if it's better to run the Dexcool coolant, even though they are not in the original vehicle? and also is it Okay to run full synthetic motor oil in these earlier 2002ish LS motors?

[Jon01]

Green coolant is fine, as is synthetic but if your motor has some miles on it I'd think twice about doing it as it can cause leaks.

[67chevy1series]

Motor only has about 120k

[izzy_Britton]

Originally Posted by Jon01

Green coolant is fine, as is synthetic but if your motor has some miles on it I'd think twice about doing it as it can cause leaks.

Wait? what? which can cause leaks? the green, synthetic, or dexcool?

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by izzy_Britton

Wait? what? which can cause leaks? the green, synthetic, or dexcool?

Synthetic oil, not coolant. I always run the green stuff. If you don't have a completely sealed cooling system and run Dexcool, it turns to a mud like substance where the air mixes with it, which in most cases is under the radiator cap where the air is sucked back in the radiator when it cools down. Makes a mess, ask me how I know.....

[68c10airstream]

I used my stock 1968 temp sensor in the front face of the truck water pump. It has a raised round boss. Drilled and tapped it to the stock size. Only thing is the newer engines run hotter than the 68 did. Once installed and done the stock gauge read about 3/4 scale.

I wanted it to read 1/2 scale fully warmed up. I cut the stock wire to the stock sender and installed in a temporary variable resistor and dialed the 3/4 scale gauge down to 1/2 scale (added resistance, made it artificially colder). Removed the variable resistor and it was 4 ohms. Soldered an inline 4 ohm 1/2 watt resistor and all is good.

Remember that this is all based on a sender with shiny brass terminal and a shiny wire connected to the sender and a proper working gauge. In all honesty adding the 4 ohm resistor has skewed and re-scaled my readings colder, but i don't mind it being out of calibration during warm up, as long as when it's fully warmed up at say 200 degrees it shows close to 1/2 scale.

It's been installed for 6 years now and don't regret tapping the front of the water pump and an inline resistor

Ls1 nova71 (eric) has a very unique viewpoint on these issues and his fixes are real world, been there, done that type. Great help and very handy.

[SparkyRnD]

We make bolt-in conversion radiators and we also offer a forum member discount:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=590670


We can build it for any engine set-up including the LS (no additional charge) and include a free steam port and built-in trans cooler if needed.

[67chevy1series]

Originally Posted by SparkyRnD

We make bolt-in conversion radiators and we also offer a forum member discount:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=590670


We can build it for any engine set-up including the LS (no additional charge) and include a free steam port and built-in trans cooler if needed.

That's a good looking radiator! If my radiator should go out on my I'll be sure to give you guys a message/call.

Anybody know of any companies that make Stainless steel headers that fit in the c10 chassi for the LS motor? I've been looking for some raw stainless steel headers that have 1-3/4" primaries and 2-1/2" collector for a c10 and I'm not having any luck

[Jon01]

Kooks tbss headers will fit fine and are stainless.

[67chevy1series]

I've heard that the TBSS driver side header comes way out to make room for either a front drive line or something with the Trans/T-case (can't remember for sure) and that you have to grind down the frame a little in some spots when putting them in a c10, is there a certain version of the TBSS that you can get headers for which don't require you to do that?

[jessemthompson]

I used Gibson ls swap headers. They are stainless and coated. They have thick flanges, don't hang beneath the frame and they have been holding up well.

[67chevy1series]

Do you have a part number? Also do those headers have 1-3/4" primaries and 2-1/2" collector?

[TopFuel1966]

Originally Posted by 67chevy1series

You can keep the stock truck pan but it's going to hang 1-1/2" + or - a 1/2 inch below the crossmember.

I used Early Classic's motor mounts and had no crossmember clearance issues with the stock oilpan.

[jessemthompson]

Originally Posted by 67chevy1series

Do you have a part number? Also do those headers have 1-3/4" primaries and 2-1/2" collector?

Here is some info on then. They are 1 3/4 primary, 3" collectors with a 2 1/2" step down.

http://www.chevyhardcore.com/feature...-swap-headers/

http://gibsonperformance.com/i-22731...-gp139s-c.html

[67chevy1series]

Originally Posted by jessemthompson

Here is some info on then. They are 1 3/4 primary, 3" collectors with a 2 1/2" step down.

http://www.chevyhardcore.com/feature...-swap-headers/

http://gibsonperformance.com/i-22731...-gp139s-c.html

Would you happen to have any pictures of them installed on your truck?

[aod92]

I'm running Doug Thorley headers and they fit great! Nice thick flanges too

[izzy_Britton]

Originally Posted by aod92

I'm running Doug Thorley headers and they fit great! Nice thick flanges too

sorry, off topic here: what are you running for front suspension? got a better pick? more info please?

[aod92]

Originally Posted by izzy_Britton

sorry, off topic here: what are you running for front suspension? got a better pick? more info please?

I'm running all ride tech suspension. Coil overs on all 4 corners.

[67chevy1series]

Originally Posted by aod92

I'm running Doug Thorley headers and they fit great! Nice thick flanges too

Are those stainless steel? Do you happen to have the part number? That ride tech suspension is really nice, looks very good!

[aod92]

Originally Posted by 67chevy1series

Are those stainless steel? Do you happen to have the part number? That ride tech suspension is really nice, looks very good!

They're mild steel that is ceramic coated

[aod92]

Part number 324y-c I bought them from summit

[67chevy1series]

Thank you I'll check into those.


Alright guys I know where I'm going to run my steam port line but I'm interested in what you factory lines that mount to each head you guys used and how you ran your steam vent line, if at all possible can you include what factory motor in ex. Ls2, ls9 , lm7, lq4 etc the factory hard line is from. I'm using an LM7 5.3 but I'm not so sure I want to run the factory hard line as it puts the end facing up and to the passenger side

[67chevy1series]

Can the line that runs from the steam vent cross over from the front of each head to the radiator run lower then those two points or does that line have to be level to both of those locations? Don't really want to have that line "hovering" in mid air from my radiator all the way to the front of the motor if I don't have too.

[ls1nova71]

It's under pressure so it doesnt matter. On 99-07 trucks the line is about half way down the radiator.

[MalibuSSwagon]

I just hooked up the steam line to the heater hose inlet on the radiator, work quite well and since I'm using the factory airbox I routed the line like OEM.