I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

[89AKurt]

This picture was taken in Soniota or Patagonia, note the folded over front plate.
Dads parents by Kurt Womack, on Flickr

This was brand new, when he worked/lived at Zion N.P.
Dad's slides 131 by Kurt Womack, on Flickr

I was considering finding a '52 Ford pickup, like the one my dad owned in the day. But I like this more modern truck.
Dads slides 45 by Kurt Womack, on Flickr

['68OrangeSunshine]

Your 190 is a lot more polished than I remember mine. After a fender-bender in downtown Hollywood, [I was 19], I replaced the passenger side front fender with a very straight one from a Canary Yellow junkyard Mercedes. Mine was a Pearl Grey, not Slate Grey.
The effect made it look like an Me109 with the yellow cowling for ID during the Battle of Britain. Driving in Los Angeles in that period was highly competitive -- almost combative.
Like PHX traffic is now.
My Dad never liked white walls after the Fifties.
I took photography classes, photojournalism, TV production, cinematography in school. Learned how to develop B&W, and print pix. Lost art now.
You have an "eye".

[89AKurt]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

[...]
I took photography classes, photojournalism, TV production, cinematography in school. Learned how to develop B&W, and print pix. Lost art now.
You have an "eye".

Thanks for that! My dad influenced my taste in cars and photography. He gave me a Kodak 828 (?), I got an Olympus OM1 later and took slides. Sure is nice to have the digital way now.

What is this vent called? It is lacking hinge holes, what is missing?
Vent thingamajig no hinges by Kurt Womack, on Flickr

['68OrangeSunshine]

They're called Air Vents. LMC lists new seals [p/n 38-7420] and knobs [p/n 30-2630]. My catalog is old so you'll have to look up current pricing.
Clean them up. If you're lucky the little 1/4'' dia. spring-loaded pivot pins at 12 0'clock and 6 0'clock aren't rusted out. They snap into 1/4'' holes at 12 and 6 on the cab kick panel.
If they're AFU, you'll have to source them from junkyards, parts dismantlers, WTB ad, the usual. I call them ,,Mexican A/C''.
EDIT: Good news -- LMC now sells repro vent doors. P/N: 38-5348 [+9] Bad news -- they're $50 each.

Hey Kurt, You were looking for a better solution to pot metal heater control levers?
Here you go: www.oldairproducts.com
P/n: 50-7725B ''67-72 Chevy/GMC Non-Air Heater Only, Lever Controls w/ Black Face'' [Steel]. ....$28.50

GMail sent.

[89AKurt]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

They're called Air Vents. LMC lists new seals [p/n 38-7420] and knobs [p/n 30-2630]. My catalog is old so you'll have to look up current pricing.
Clean them up. If you're lucky the little 1/4'' dia. spring-loaded pivot pins at 12 0'clock and 6 0'clock aren't rusted out. They snap into 1/4'' holes at 12 and 6 on the cab kick panel.
If they're AFU, you'll have to source them from junkyards, parts dismantlers, WTB ad, the usual. I call them ,,Mexican A/C''.
EDIT: Good news -- LMC now sells repro vent doors. P/N: 38-5348 [+9] Bad news -- they're $50 each.

Hey Kurt, You were looking for a better solution to pot metal heater control levers?
Here you go: www.oldairproducts.com
P/n: 50-7725B ''67-72 Chevy/GMC Non-Air Heater Only, Lever Controls w/ Black Face'' [Steel]. ....$28.50

...

Thanks for helping out! I really need to look closer on the cab's hole, I felt around for the pivot holes earlier. I ain't buying a new unit, that's something I can live with, or if I have to, have a plan to make sheet metal pivot pieces.

I see the whole heater unit is more reasonable than expected, so that is on my wish list. I'm also tempted to buy new taillight and backup light lenses, after replacing the wiring harness. Some things I will buy new, if safety or comfort related, and can't be scratch-built.

I need to search and find how to adjust the hood, that can't be difficult, can it?
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...nge+adjustment

My first job of hauling, was out of firewood, snow is coming again, and since no woodcutters have any now due to the weather and being colder than "normal", got some from my mom. LOL
First job by Kurt Womack, on Flickr

['68OrangeSunshine]

Yeah, I brought inside a milk crate of 14 - 16'' length mesquite, I originally cut for the BBQ smoker. It won't get as cold here, but sure is nasty to us locals. My parents used to have a cabin in Pinetop. I miss the smell of Juniper smoke.
You can spot the Snowbirds in the supermarket -- they're in khaki shorts and tanktops, while the locals all have their puffy down jackets on. I have a fireplace, and installed a wrought iron crane arm on the right side. so I can swing a Dutch oven over the coals and cook. My Shepherds' Pie is killer. I add a pint of Guinness.
There's a few pounds of Bison stew meat in the freezer. Maybe Buffalo Red Chile?
Back to trucks -- a professional wiring harness is a safety necessity. I recommend M&H Electrical Fabricators. USA-made, with factory spec color codes, gauge sizes, exact lengths, and Packard [OEM style] connectors. Perfect fit. [Fifty year old copper lines get brittle, not to mention packrats.] And the technician who builds the harness puts a tag with his name on it. Thev are not cheap, however. www.wirengharness.com/
I spent my last 3 off days trying to get my horn working again. Anyway the Stepside has a new Turm Signal switch and harness. I'll post it on the Electrical forum later. I'm stumped.
I replied to your email.

[clay68c10]

That is a great truck, and one of my favorite color combinations. It helps that you take good pictures also.
I will second the vote for M&H wiring. A very quality product.
When you get the heater control replaced or rebuilt, be sure to lube the cables and pivot points in the duct system. It will make a world of difference. It’s worth taking it all apart to clean and re-furbish, you’ll get another 50 years of use out of it.

[89AKurt]

Originally Posted by clay68c10

That is a great truck, and one of my favorite color combinations. It helps that you take good pictures also.
I will second the vote for M&H wiring. A very quality product.
When you get the heater control replaced or rebuilt, be sure to lube the cables and pivot points in the duct system. It will make a world of difference. It’s worth taking it all apart to clean and re-furbish, you’ll get another 50 years of use out of it.

When I saw the color in the ad, I was drawn like a moth to an LED. Thanks, photography is a hobby of mine. I won several monthly photo contests on the MINI Cooper forum when I had one (two different ones).

I was wondering about that, same with a bicycle shifter/brake cable, helps to lube them. I already ordered the wiring from LMC, did for the previous truck and worked for me.

Check this out, the guy I bought this from, has a Cadillac Coupe like yours that he is fixing up. He said one piece of side trim was hundreds of bucks. He regretted having to sell this, that's why I committed to buying it.

[89AKurt]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Yeah, I brought inside a milk crate of 14 - 16'' length mesquite, I originally cut for the BBQ smoker. It won't get as cold here, but sure is nasty to us locals. My parents used to have a cabin in Pinetop. I miss the smell of Juniper smoke.
You can spot the Snowbirds in the supermarket -- they're in khaki shorts and tanktops, while the locals all have their puffy down jackets on. I have a fireplace, and installed a wrought iron crane arm on the right side. so I can swing a Dutch oven over the coals and cook. My Shepherds' Pie is killer. I add a pint of Guinness.
There's a few pounds of Bison stew meat in the freezer. Maybe Buffalo Red Chile?
Back to trucks -- a professional wiring harness is a safety necessity. I recommend M&H Electrical Fabricators. USA-made, with factory spec color codes, gauge sizes, exact lengths, and Packard [OEM style] connectors. Perfect fit. [Fifty year old copper lines get brittle, not to mention packrats.] And the technician who builds the harness puts a tag with his name on it. Thev are not cheap, however. www.wirengharness.com/
I spent my last 3 off days trying to get my horn working again. Anyway the Stepside has a new Turm Signal switch and harness. I'll post it on the Electrical forum later. I'm stumped.
I replied to your email.

I replaced the turn signal switch on the '69, because the hazard switch got stuck to "on" when I tried it out one day. Had to disconnect that day driving around. LOL That's also when I saw the original color was the dark metallic green, the original owner repainted the whole interior. Lots of small broken parts were found in there. I need to work on getting my horn button working too.

[74cam]

Great looking truck!! Love the original paint. So cool to find the build sheet still there as well!

['68OrangeSunshine]

So Hell Froze Over this morning -- snowing in Tucson.
Didn't last though. Just all wet now.

[89AKurt]

Snowed just outside of Phoenix too!

Prescott got hammered. I was at undocumented wife's house last two days, she could get out on her street with Honda CRV, my car is buried. I got home, have a fire going now.
More snow by Kurt Womack, on Flickr
More snow by Kurt Womack, on Flickr

Guess I won't be working on it, or driving for awhile.

['68OrangeSunshine]

I'm at 2700'. What's the elevation there?

Letter mailed tonight.

[89AKurt]

I'm at 5,420 feet. (thanks, sent off today)

1968 Chevy in the snow by Kurt Womack, on Flickr

Put my first new part on today!
Ditched the crap sealed beam headlights....
1968 Chevy new eyes by Kurt Womack, on Flickr
1968 Chevy new eyes by Kurt Womack, on Flickr
1968 Chevy new eyes by Kurt Womack, on Flickr

In the name of safety. And I just like the looks of the Hella units, and they are brighter white. Also used fine steel wool and polish on the trim rings.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Looks nice. Did you cut in a relay harness, or stay with the stock wiring?
You might wanta keep the old lights for spares.
Last November, I blew thru a string of 4 or 5 headlights, until I R+R'd the EVR. Also a lost nut on the positive starter cable was a contributing factor. I like the halogen lamps
but the Sylvania Nighthawks I used to run went up to $25 each...That's fifty bucks for both.
Late night, and stores closed, with a work call in the morning, I even cannibalised the headlamps off my '67 Suburban. One I had to glue back together with RTV, the lens had separated from the reflector due to 20 years of sunbaking. The other one slipped off my tailgate and smashed on the hard ground when I moved my leg. Ooops.
I got a deal of 4 NAPA/Wagners from RockAuto for $3.87 each. Then two popped from my wild voltage surges.
Settled down now, but I'd keep the hard core old school stuff around for when the fancy stuff goes poof.

Wow, that's twice my elevation. Reminds me of snaps of my trucks snowed upon in Pinetop. I'll have to dig them out and digitize them.

[El Dorado Jim]

nice old truck!!!!

[89AKurt]

Originally Posted by El Dorado Jim

nice old truck!!!!

Thanks, it looks good for a beater, runs like a champ but I need to find where all the oil is leaking and get that fixed.

Yes, keeping the headlights. The pile is growing.

Customer wanted me to check his property, where he is building his vacation home. It's a higher elevation, and on a north slope. He is going to need a quad with a plow. I parked just far enough for dramatic effect, and almost got stuck, but some branches and kicking snow got me out.
Oak Knoll Village by Kurt Womack, on Flickr

['68OrangeSunshine]

What rear end do you have on that? If you had a posi you'd be a snowstompimg big dog

[pkg rec'd]

[89AKurt]

I sincerely doubt it's positraction, otherwise no idea.

I got the back wiring harness installed, have brake/running lights, turn signals, but no back-up lights, so guess I need a b-up switch now.
Link to a back-up switch topic:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...p+light+switch

Also trying to replace the ignition switch cylinder, I did it on the '69. But ain't working this time! grrrr
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...25#post8476025

[89AKurt]

I'm so stoked! Got my first LMC order, *had to* get some things on today.

I get excited about getting models too, this is about the same.


I mean seriously?!?! What is with the stupid label, I'm not having sex with the box!


Looks like this was repaired before. And then damaged again.


Ready to rip the old wiring out. A cheapskate thing I did, was clean the housings, mask and sprayed silver. They had also been installed with only one screw, so I used aluminum duct tape to cover the hole.


Comparing the harnesses. This truck has the non-bulb sidelights. Will need to get the license lamp next order.


The one part made in the USA, was disappointed. One of the "nuts" came off, another was not lined up to the hole.


I didn't like how it sagged, so shoved a 1/2" x 1/2" stick under it. Cheapskate repair!


I wanted to adjust the hood. The thread on this forum was very helpful.
[/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/24mrJon]


The back-up lights were not working. So I found a couple of threads related to the 4 speed (90% were about the 3 on-the-tree), which said you have to take off the hump to see the switch. What a PITA, needed to remove the little plastic duct, also removed the rubber boot. Good thing I didn't care about the seat, or paint. This was the critical position to get it over the shifter.


Yea, there's the bugger! I need to remove that foam.


When I had looked over the engine bay, noticed this loose wire. The terminal matched!


This made my day!


But I'm pissed about the ignition switch. Also with all the slamming of the hood shut, one of the headlight adjuster plastic nuts broke, the headlight was looking at the ground, so I scrounged for two nuts, not adjustable but it's back in place.

Will go to the car wash and clean the transmission before putting it back together. Drove it tonight, I have flickering lights. grrrr

[89AKurt]

All want to know, where is the transmission fill hole? Going to crawl under the passenger side.

https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledg.../manual/sm465/

[89AKurt]

This sounding normal? (how do I have the video show?)

https://www.facebook.com/10000846199...0355330256513/

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by 89AKurt

All want to know, where is the transmission fill hole? Going to crawl under the passenger side.

https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledg.../manual/sm465/

It's a square plug, ~5/8'', on the left shoulder [drivers side] of the SM 465, about halfway up. The drain plug, low and center rear, is just like it.
They can really be stuck on there. Use a wrench with a warranty, so if you break it, you can trade-out for another. You might need a cheater bar, a section of steel pipe over the wrench to get enough torque.
Unspin CCW.
Fill with SAE 90 weight or better. until the gear oil starts to ooze back out the fill hole. You want GL-4 not GL-5 rated gear oil. The GL-5 has additives that are very good for clutches in limited slip differentials, but bad for the phosfor-bronze alloy of the synchros in the SM 465.
Consult Owner's Manual for proper fill levels.

As for the video, it'd be a lot quieter with the hump cover back on. Does not sound abnormal.
I like that modification. You can jettison your spent beercans without having to roll the window down.

[89AKurt]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

It's a square plug, ~5/8'', on the left shoulder [drivers side] [...]
Consult Owner's Manual for proper fill levels.

As for the video, it'd be a lot quieter with the hump cover back on. Does not sound abnormal.
I like that modification. You can jettison your spent beercans without having to roll the window down.

Oh, because it's muddy still haven't crawled under, but very good to know which side to be! Could not see from above. Good info on oil too, thank you.

LOL You need to catch up with the times, that's a roach ash tray.

[89AKurt]

Because the weather forecast is for rain all day tomorrow, I worked on KLUGE.
(Old term in computer programming....sort of a 'hack' or shortcut..usually badly done)

Replaced the ignition key cylinder. I got a tip from the thread posted above, had to drill out because it would not go left.


The nirvana moment.


The key (pun intended) was removing the flat tab, then it would rotate counter clockwise with effort. Used a punch instead of a paper clip. I messed up the main part a little, but it still works.


Wanted to explore the steering wheel hub. Think that part is shot, previous owner wrapped the horn button with electrical tape, it fell on my lap the other day.


I made the puller for the '69, needed to grind a little smaller to fit this wheel.


The turn signal switch looks ok, but does not cancel. I can live with that. Cleaned the steering wheel before installing. Horn isn't working, I put a screw driver from shaft to steering wheel to test (accidentally found that out on the '69).


Put the transmission hump back on. Since the floor is rusted, and the back edge of the cover is badly rusted too, I didn't care how sloppy I was gluing the cork gasket onto the floor. I also resisted painting the boot retainer ring, left it rusty.


Now it can rain, we need it!