Tremec TKX 5 Speed Transmission Installation

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

Some late model GM trucks had hydraulic clutches. I'm not sure of the years, but guessing ~ '90s.. The bell housing was aluminum and was cast with provision for mounting a slave cylinder directly on it.. I have one of those bell housings..

The 60-61 Chevy trucks, and possibly other years (I'm doing this from memory) had hydraulic operated clutches.. This was back when brakes had a single piston master cylinder. The trucks had a Siamese master cylinder -- one side for the brakes and the other for the clutch and a common reservoir.. The clutch slave cylinder mounted on a bracket that bolted to the bell housing. The TO bearing and release arm are the same as used on later C/10s. If you decide to go hydraulic, you might look into this arrangement..

I could probably find something like that at the local pick-n-pull.

[pjmoreland]

I installed the bellcrank today, and it fit just fine, as shown in this thread:
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...65#post9241665

I also cut my floor to accept a high hump. I welded square nuts to the underside of the floor to make assembly and disassembly easier. I had to order some seam sealer, so I will do the final installation in a few days.

[pjmoreland]

Here are the nuts welded to the underside of the cab floor.

[pjmoreland]

The shift boot hole is cut. I'm going with a 68-72 4x4 4-speed boot since it is meant to mount on a flat surface.

[pjmoreland]

I ran into a compatibility issue between the clutch inspection cover flat piece and my OE roller block with a one piece rear main seal. The cover is intended for use with a two piece seal block. I trimmed away some material to make it work.

[pjmoreland]

Made the following changes to the under-dash harness:

1) Eliminated the NSS connector from the purple wire and ran it straight to the bulkhead connector.

2) Eliminated the reverse light connector and ran its two wires (light & dark green) to the bulkhead connector per the schematic.

While I had it unwrapped, I replaced several wires that POs had monkeyed with. Pulled unmodified wires from a donor harness. I also added a wire to the one remaining terminal on the bulkhead connector for A/C shutoff at WOT So I can tie it into my Holley Sniper. I'll have to add a relay between the Sniper and Vintage Air because the Sniper provides a ground and VA wants 12V.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Made the following changes to the under-dash harness:

1) Eliminated the NSS connector from the purple wire and ran it straight to the bulkhead connector.

In the past, when converting from automatic to manual, I've fabricated a mount for a push button switch on the clutch side of the pedal bracket.. Mounted a small tab on the clutch pedal arm that makes contact with the switch just as the pedal reaches full travel. Connect the switch in series with the purple starter wire and you have clutch operated safety switch..

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

In the past, when converting from automatic to manual, I've fabricated a mount for a push button switch on the clutch side of the pedal bracket.. Mounted a small tab on the clutch pedal arm that makes contact with the switch just as the pedal reaches full travel. Connect the switch in series with the purple starter wire and you have clutch operated safety switch..

I have been debating doing that. I started making a bracket for using a brake light switch. I was having serious doubts about the current carrying capacity of a brake light switch, so I took one apart, and found that the contacts were puny. Then I was thinking of adding a relay that the switch activates, but I really don't want the mess of the relay. Then I started looking online for stock clutch switches, and the ones I found were goofy shapes meant for specific applications which would make them a challenge to adapt to my truck. I am concerned about my truck lurching if I or someone else who is driving my truck forgets to press the clutch. I will do another search for generic pushbutton switches with a decent current rating. I'm thinking 30A would be a good safe number.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

In the past, when converting from automatic to manual, I've fabricated a mount for a push button switch on the clutch side of the pedal bracket.. Mounted a small tab on the clutch pedal arm that makes contact with the switch just as the pedal reaches full travel. Connect the switch in series with the purple starter wire and you have clutch operated safety switch..

I'm going to go back to my original plan of using a brake light switch on the clutch pedal with the purple starter solenoid wire routed through it. I have a reproduction brake light switch that has a much more solid feel to it than the original ACDelco unit I cut apart last night. Here's a kit that is sold using that style of switch, so it should be alright.

https://www.classicchevy.com/amfile/...oduct/3274773/

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

I'm going to go back to my original plan of using a brake light switch on the clutch pedal with the purple starter solenoid wire routed through it. I have a reproduction brake light switch that has a much more solid feel to it than the original ACDelco unit I cut apart last night. Here's a kit that is sold using that style of switch, so it should be alright.

https://www.classicchevy.com/amfile/...oduct/3274773/

My "other hobby" is electronics.. Mouser Electronics is my go to for all things electronic..

Here's a link to their push button switches -- 77,000 to choose from.. I'll leave the selection up to you..

https://www.mouser.com/c/electromech...tton-switches/

[pjmoreland]

Yep. I'm very familiar with Mouser. I design PCBs and wiring harnesses for robots as part of my job. I know this is silly, but I want to end up with something that looks stock.

[pjmoreland]

Here's the 90-834 reproduction clutch rod from Classic Parts. It appears to be nice quality.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Here's the 90-834 reproduction clutch rod from Classic Parts. It appears to be nice quality.

Oh!!! But it doesn't appear to be stock because the flat area is missing...

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

Oh!!! But it doesn't appear to be stock because the flat area is missing...

Yes, now you know how to press my buttons.

It can pass for stock, but it doesn't look original.

[pjmoreland]

Here's the clutch safety switch connector added to the harness along with the start of a bracket.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Yes, now you know how to press my buttons.

I hope you realize I was only kidding..

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

I hope you realize I was only kidding..

Of course. I hope you got my reference to pressing buttons...

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Of course. I hope you got my reference to pressing buttons...

Sure do.. My first thought was, "I had that coming"....

[pjmoreland]

I finished the bracket for the clutch pedal safety switch. I also reinstalled the dash harness and installed an American Autowire voltmeter in my gauge cluster. The speedometer cable adapter showed up today, so I installed it.

[MySons68C20]

Lookin good PJ!

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by MySons68C20

Lookin good PJ!

Thanks. I'm looking forward to getting my flywheel back from the machine shop so that I can actually install the transmission. In the meantime, I do have plenty of stuff that still needs to be done:

1) Wire in the backup lamp switch that is in the transmission instead of at the base of the steering column

2) Install the high hump with sealant and paint the underside

3) Paint and install the new clutch pedal push rod

4) Install new pinion yoke. I'm going to have a new one-piece driveshaft made using 1350 u-joints

5) Remove two-piece driveshaft center support bracket from crossmember

6) Install new throttle spring bracket (no longer need the current large bracket since the TV cable has been eliminated)

7) Install new carpet to accommodate high hump

8) Reinstall seat

9) Swap original nosecone onto new starter, replace bushing in nosecone

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Thanks. I'm looking forward to getting my flywheel back from the machine shop so that I can actually install the transmission. In the meantime, I do have plenty of stuff that still needs to be done:

1) Wire in the backup lamp switch that is in the transmission instead of at the base of the steering column

2) Install the high hump with sealant and paint the underside

3) Paint and install the new clutch pedal push rod

4) Install new pinion yoke. I'm going to have a new one-piece driveshaft made using 1350 u-joints

5) Remove two-piece driveshaft center support bracket from crossmember

6) Install new throttle spring bracket (no longer need the current large bracket since the TV cable has been eliminated)

7) Install new carpet to accommodate high hump

8) Reinstall seat

9) Swap original nosecone onto new starter, replace bushing in nosecone

When do you plan to sleep??

[pjmoreland]

Yeah, I'm paying the price for these late nights.

[MySons68C20]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Yeah, I'm paying the price for these late nights.

Yeah, it's cool to get in the mode and look at the clock and it's 2:00 am!

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by MySons68C20

Yeah, it's cool to get in the mode and look at the clock and it's 2:00 am!

Yup. I like how much I can get done when I stay up late.