C10CJ: A Pro-touring '71 Stepside on a No Limit Pro-C10 Chassis

[Stickman]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Well Chris, that is a very impressive LS rabbit hole you've gone down. Seems I remember Don Hardy race cars for V8 Vega kits back in the late 70's or early 80's.

Chassis and powertrain looks really good!

That looks awesome, Don Hardy has been around a long time. They mention the above in there website bio. Again , that frame and engine look terrific.

[rustylew]

Did you go with the standard 61" rear axel and 61-1/2" up front??

[1971_c10]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Well Chris, that is a very impressive LS rabbit hole you've gone down. Seems I remember Don Hardy race cars for V8 Vega kits back in the late 70's or early 80's.

Chassis and powertrain looks really good!

Thanks! I may be down the rabbit hole, but not complaining.

And yep, Don Hardy has been around a while. I didn't realize he had a small hot rod shop making engines until recently.

Originally Posted by mooseknuckles

wow, I love that motor...and the chassis is pretty sweet too, and the wheels, and pretty much everything else. awesome build!

Thanks a bunch man!

Originally Posted by Stickman

That looks awesome, Don Hardy has been around a long time. They mention the above in there website bio. Again , that frame and engine look terrific.

Thanks! Yeah the 418 cu in is a popular combo. I said, if it's good enough for Rodger Brogdon it's good enough for me!

In all seriousness though, it's was crazy that I could get a built LS long block with the same specs as what I was about to buy for a SBC, for the same cost as just the parts for the SBC! I then went all bling crazy because I knew I would do it eventually so might as well do it now.

Originally Posted by rustylew

Did you go with the standard 61" rear axel and 61-1/2" up front??

I kept the standard 61" rear 61.5" front. It's a balancing act. For turning corners you want a wide track, but you also want a wide contact patch (i.e. tread section). Then you start pulling in look, with things like lip depth affecting the overall look and it makes a big difference. The 61" seemed like a good compromise. I had thought about going with a slightly more narrow rear, to get an even bigger lip, but with the slightly convex spokes, it gives a deeper lip with a deeper backspace, which is normally opposite (deeper backspace is usually shallower lip).

[1971_c10]

Ok, been traveling a week for work, so better squeeze some more updates in before I get sent out again.

With the cab on, I went ahead and put part of the front clip on. Just because I was curious more than anything. The front clip is pretty easy to put on and take off.

I also set an air cleaner on the throttle body to check hood clearance. Looks like I have plenty with this one. It has a "dropped" bottom, so I may also pickup a flat bottom and check that at some point too.

[1971_c10]

I then made the decision to go ahead and cut the bedsides to clear the 12" wide tires (a stock step side might be able to clear an 11" tire, but it is tight).

The process was somewhat complicated, but it worked out in the end. What I did was on one side I put an "envelope" (the square tape in the pics below). That envelope is where I know I want the mini-tub to sit once I get those fabricated. The next daunting task was getting the cab squared up, then putting the bed on (I had to remove the rear tires during this process), and squaring the bed up to the cab. This is where those gaps become important. I made sure every gap was equal side to side, including the front fenders. The goal here is to get the center of the monster notch in the bedside lined up with the axle.

Once the body was squared up, I started putting on the layout for the notch. The trick here now is figuring out the diameter I wanted and where the top of the notch would be. To help this, you measure from the top of the wheel as installed to the top of the axle tube. Then subtract the height of the frame rail at the axle. This give you a distance above the frame rail if the suspension was bottomed out (so in case I bag it one day). Then, think if you might run a taller tire. I've got a ~27.5" tall tire now, but some of the race specific tires I may run are 28-30". So I added a few inches to this this distance I measured, namely 2" for a bigger wheel and 1" for further clearance.

The second part is the diameter, which I basically took the 30" tire and added some clearance, so I used a 32" diameter notch. The catch is that the center of the hole is actually below the bedside metal, so a jig made drawing the notch easy. You can see the simple jig I used in the pics below. Once I had one side figured out, I just transferred that to the other side. Then it was time to cut. No special tools for me, just my IR reciprocating saw. I love that little saw.

Note, I also kept the top of the notch low enough to not interfere with the fender mounts and low enough such that the mini-tub will sit just below the row of bolts.

[1971_c10]

And of course, now that the body fits with the wheels on ...

A stance check. I think things are working out perfectly.

[1971_c10]

So almost have you guys caught up. The body shots were from September.

With the body on and square, I also went ahead and installed the new steering column I picked up from Ididit. It's a nice column, but it is NOT made to bolt in to a 67-72 C10 despite getting the part numbers using a 67-72 C10 as the truck. What you get is a 30" universal column and a wiring harness adapter. So not really bolt in. In my case, I had to cut a slot in the column since my dash has a locating pin and I didn't feel like cutting that pin out. Fortunately, that was the only mod I had to do.

I then realized the horn peg was in a different clock position from the factory column. Doh! Now I need a new steering wheel.

Here's some shots showing a side by side with the old column. The shorter columns are pretty much required if you are going the rack and pinion route. Then a couple shots showing the horn peg differences.

I picked up a Billet Specialties Draft steering wheel which closely goes with my spokes, but it continues the black/grey theme on the interior I'm moving to vs the old tan the previous owner put in back in the early 90's.

[1971_c10]

As usual for me, work gets busy in the last quarter of the year. Plus we had some vacation stacked in there. So I haven't spent a whole lot of time with the truck lately. Well, at least working on the truck. I've spent a ton of time trying to find off the shelf headers that fit. The challenge I'm running in to is not many 1 7/8" primary tube options out there, and none that would clear the steering shaft. BTW, on the steering shaft I just used a 2 u-joint setup with a slip shaft. I've got 3" overlap with 3" of slip. I did try some Hooker Blackheart headers for an F body, but they just didn't have enough clearance in the steering area, so now I'm scratching my head. I'm open to ideas if you have any. Custom headers are a pretty penny.

[1971_c10]

Opinion time!

Where to mount the regulator and fuel filter.

I've tossed a couple options together, but I welcome other ideas as well.

1) with the fuel filter in the now blank area where the heater was. Pro: both Regulator and filter away from heat sources, easily accessible. Con: highly visibility

2) Regulator behind the engine on the firewall, filter down on the frame rail a ways back. Pro: Regulator nice and close to the fuel rails. Partly hidden once air cleaner is on. Con: puts the filter farther away and closer to exhaust heat.

Note, I will have a fuel pressure transducer on the regular, not a gauge, so no reason to keep the regulator visible.

[rustylew]

Which coil overs did you go with??

[1971_c10]

Originally Posted by rustylew

Which coil overs did you go with??

I went with Ridetech HQ coil-overs. I think the 5.2" stroke ones (can't remember for sure, but that what is plugged into my setup sheet). 450 lb/in front spring, 200 lb/in rear. Once I get the truck back together and have everything bolted back on, I'll be able to figure out pre-loads. But initial guess is pretty light on pre-load, with less than 100 lbs front and right around 100 lb on the rear.

I was pretty set on running Ridetech, although there are some good options from Viking and there is always Penske. I chose the HQ over the TQ simply because I may go shockwaves in the future and I won't be spending enough time at the track to really need the TQ, but I at least wanted a little adjustability on the rebound.

[Average Joe]

Nice ride!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

On the headers, could you rework the tube that is hitting, closer to the block? I digg that you are keeping it a step side!

[rob32472]

Very nice! I ordered a chassis on the black Friday sale so I am just waiting Is there anything you have ran into with the chassis you did not expect?

[1971_c10]

Originally Posted by Average Joe

Nice ride!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

On the headers, could you rework the tube that is hitting, closer to the block? I digg that you are keeping it a step side!

Thanks!

Unfortunately, the steering shaft was hitting just downstream of the bend. So because of the routing into the collector, the only rework option would be to bash the tube in some. I felt it was a little more bashing than I wanted, so I opted to return the headers. Currently looking at ultimateheaders.com as an option. Also in some discussions with a couple builders who use No Limit chassis to see if they have any experience with big tube headers.

And never had any plans to go fleetside ... I love the step side too much!

Originally Posted by rob32472

Very nice! I ordered a chassis on the black Friday sale so I am just waiting Is there anything you have ran into with the chassis you did not expect?

Rock on! You'll love it. My only issue was due to using a stroked LS, but you'd have the same problem with a stroked SBC (well, using a 4" stroke, a shorter stroke would clear if it used a standard oil pan). The body fitment is awesome. I do need to do some trimming for the body bushings and I will need to drill a few holes for my bumpers, but that's minor stuff and to be expected. The only major things left for me to do is get a driveshaft fit and get exhaust. If you don't need a big tube header there are plenty of options to go with that should provide you the clearance you'll need. Just expect to run a mid-length header or manifolds. I think a long tube header in a No Limit chassis is a custom job no matter what motor and what size primary tube. Well, I've also got the motor slammed back as far as possible, so that brings the cab clearance into play. If you pushed the motor forward for a more drag racing setup, there are some G-body long tube headers that just might work, but the steering shaft starts getting more in the way with a more forward motor.

[Advanced Design]

The stance for the truck is spot on! As for headers, does Rob at No Limit have suggestions for what will fit? Anticipate others have built with this chassis and figured out what will work.

Regulator and fuel filter mounting. if it matches the theme, or look, you are going for, I like option one...unless it starts getting too crowded in that area with AC lines and heater hoses running in too. In that case, option two might be better...from a visual perspective.

[1971_c10]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

The stance for the truck is spot on! As for headers, does Rob at No Limit have suggestions for what will fit? Anticipate others have built with this chassis and figured out what will work.

Regulator and fuel filter mounting. if it matches the theme, or look, you are going for, I like option one...unless it starts getting too crowded in that area with AC lines and heater hoses running in too. In that case, option two might be better...from a visual perspective.

Thanks! I'm super happy with the stance. On the headers, Rob has suggestions for the smaller tube stuff, like 1 3/4", but at the time didn't really have much in terms of the larger tube stuff.

On the regulator, I'm torn. The colors match the general theme in the engine bay, grey and black. However, like you mentioned, the fuel lines would cross the AC lines and I am not so sure I'd like that. Or I could add like 10 ft and go up and down and around, but I am balancing the performance aspect too, so not keen on adding a ton of extra fuel line. I also like the look of the smooth firewalls I've seen. I shouldn't have to adjust the regulator too often, but I don't want to make it impossible to get to. Ahh the trade-offs ... where's the magic 8 ball with car project decisions?

[ChuckDriver]

Awesome build!!

[1971_c10]

Originally Posted by ChuckDriver

Awesome build!!

Thanks!!!

[Seventy Two]

Subscribed

[1971_c10]

A little update guys, sorry for being away for a while. Between work travel and the holiday I got a little behind on things. I've been waiting for a 2nd set of headers to trial. Shipment went from 12/23 to 1/3 and hopefully the 1/3 sticks. In the meantime I've knocked a couple items off the honey-do list.

[Hart_Rod]

Sweet build! Did you figure out the regulator mounting yet? I mounted mine to the back of the fuel rail.

[slowcpe]

Very nice build! I went through a similar delima but never considered a complete chassis. I went with a PB Level 1 and c-notch rear.

It's been awhile since I looked at headers but I believe there is a guy on here with a similar setup that used Kook's TBSS long tubes. Since I work at a snails pace and turbo is still an option, I haven't looked into it any further. I did get a quote for custom headers and it was $2500-3000.

My buddy has a set of Boze wheels on his mustang and they are very nice. Wheels are similar to yours.

I recommend Bowler as well. Close to me and that's where I bought my t56 magnum from.

[RRR18]

I like the passenger side mounting for service issues. I like center for appearance issues.

[1971_c10]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Sweet build! Did you figure out the regulator mounting yet? I mounted mine to the back of the fuel rail.

Thanks Rob! I've been through a few of your build threads and love them and I've even pointed a few people towards the ChubTubz ...

I haven't quite figured out the regulator yet. Your option is very interesting, I hadn't thought of putting it straight on the fuel rail. I'll have to see if I've got clearance for something like that.

Originally Posted by slowcpe

Very nice build! I went through a similar delima but never considered a complete chassis. I went with a PB Level 1 and c-notch rear.

It's been awhile since I looked at headers but I believe there is a guy on here with a similar setup that used Kook's TBSS long tubes. Since I work at a snails pace and turbo is still an option, I haven't looked into it any further. I did get a quote for custom headers and it was $2500-3000.

My buddy has a set of Boze wheels on his mustang and they are very nice. Wheels are similar to yours.

I recommend Bowler as well. Close to me and that's where I bought my t56 magnum from.

Thanks Ryan! I'm actually following your build too! Was just getting caught up.

I know the thread you are talking about on the headers. Those are on the "trial" list a couple after the current set. I have called a couple shops local in CO and gotten rough estimates between $3200 and $5000 for custom headers. So I'll spend a bit on shipping headers back and forth, since Summit is so good on that stuff, but after 3 or 4 trials, and nothing, I'll probably bite the bullet on custom headers.

Originally Posted by RRR18

I like the passenger side mounting for service issues. I like center for appearance issues.

My dilemma exactly! I've come up with a 3rd option today that I'll see what it looks like once a set of headers shows up for trial fit. The 3rd option is putting the regulator down on the frame rail just in front of where the cab firewall would intersect, and the filter on the frame rail farther back under the cab. The regulator would still be easy to get to assuming header tubes aren't in the way (the No Limit frame rails are ~3" wider around the engine vs stock). I'll also check out Hart_Rod's idea too.


Thanks everyone and Happy New Year!

[BossHogg69]

Very nice build, thanks for getting in depth & sharing all the details.