'85 Short Bed 4X4

[tip]

Beautiful truck... I have a soft spot for short bed 4x4s.

Looking forward to seeing you sorting out the PO's f-ups.

[FunKing85]

Well, I have made slight progress. Got a new radio in, a nice kenwood i got from a guy at work, 60 bucks for an originally 300 dollar unit. ( I work at an aftermarket truck accessory place) The PO didnt hook all the speakers up the the one he installed, so now it sounds much better, looks better too.

As far as the motor goes, I have a friend with a nice compression tester, I plan on getting with him some time soon and figuring out what the deal is. I have been doing alot of wire chasing, and its a nightmare. Its almost as if the PO ripped the old motor out without removing any wiring and just wired everything over top of the old stuff. There are loose wires and wires that do nothing at all. I really would like to get the mototr pulled, just to fix the wiring mess. I have a few questions as to what some of these wires and plugs that lead to now where do. Pictures to come.

[FunKing85]

Im back. Ive been busy with my fire department stuff, finally got a job which means money for the build! More new stuff soon.

[jjzepplin]

Maybe find a doner truck with good wiring and x-member etc. Money well spent. Nice truck and yeah that welding job would have me scared to drive that til its right.
On the other hand-anything you do to it will look like you are a genius compared to the original owners work.
It will be a real nice ride when your done!
350's commonly go on sale on Ebay with free shipping for $1200. Just sayin.
I wouldn't mess with anything til I had all the parts to fix it. That way you can still move it around if necessary.

[FunKing85]

I have been cruising Ebay a little bit. Whats the general consensus on rebuilding Vs. buying a new one? I like the idea of rebuilding because i will ensure the quality and I will know its what i want. The downside is i haven't the slightest clue on how to rebuild it.

[tip]

IMHO, you really can't go wrong with a warrantied long or short block, especially for a 350. But I'd try to find a low mile, well maintained running motor to pull off craigslist if it were my truck.

[FunKing85]

Changed the oil today, topped off the power steering fluid. Its amazing what the proper weight oil and proper amount of oil does for a motor. The first time I changed the oil I used what the PO told me he had always done. Should of known not to listen to that advice. Ha! I used 10w40 synthetic instead of 5w30. I know its not always wise to just change the weight like that but seeing as this motor seems to have been driven with half the oil needed for most of its life, I don't think Im doing much of a disservice. The power steering has a pretty strong leak in the system somewhere. As with most issues with this truck Im not sure when to fix it and where to start. I am scared of fixing these little things that will add up just to redo them when i am finnaly able to remove the front clip altogether. Decisions decisions. Im going to do some forum lurking and learn all I can. Thanks for all the helpful hints so far!

[FunKing85]

Fixed the power steering. Just the high pressure hose. Works like a champ. One thing off the list.

[aotte1]

Just FYI, compression and leak down are different test to check the condition of the engines rings and valves. The leak down test provides more detail information about their condition. Again just FYI, researching each test should help you decide which is better for what you need. E.g. Leak down test can tell you that you have an exhaust valve that is leaking, needs to be fixed, however, can drive for a little while to you save money to do it. You know this because you can hear the air leaking into the exhaust, vs the intake/carb or oil pan( e.g. ring issue.).

L

[FunKing85]

Alright, im back, after getting a job, moving twice, buying another car and another motorcycle ive been busy doing non chevy things. I have a motor lined up, not entirely sure if its what I want yet, specs to come (its alot bigger tho!) Haven't been driving it much, once or twice a week just to keep it up. Regular washes and fluid checks and all that, but no real road time. Ill have my very own 2 car garage for the first time in about a week. Time to get this build going again!

[FunKing85]

I know they're one here, and I know im just incapable, but can anyone link me to some properly mounted 350 motors in a 4x4? Stock setup is fine, I'd just like to see how it supposed to be. Thanks, apologize for being thread ingnorant.

[FunKing85]

Update time, Only a few years later...I've been busy since the last time I posted, here's whats been done.
-New crate 350, installed by a shop that was local to me. nothing special, just the plug and play
-New motor mount and cross member, no more nasty welded plate.
-New brakes all around, master cylinder rebuild as well. kept the old lines.
-New axle seals
-New rear tires, BFG A/T
-New Edelbrock 4 barrel carb, needs tuned.

After getting all this done, I replaced all the fluids and drove it from Florida to Oregon, where I'm working and living for the time being. I drive this truck everyday and its a full on work truck on the farm I've been working at.

[FunKing85]

The cab corners have unfortunately gotten much worse (who'd a guessed it), The truck sat with a blown motor for about 6 months in FL, did it no favors at all. Have the Cab Corner metal ready to order from LMC, Gonna have a shop fix er' up right sometime soon. Drivers side is worse than passenger. Open to suggestions for where I can get the corner metals, fit is my main concern. I'll find one of the 1.2 million threads on cab corners and go from there.

[FunKing85]

Last week I received a nice big (expensive) box from LMC containing one RH inner fender well, stock Coolant reservoir, Upper and Lower fan shroud, Battery tray and the necessary hardware. First thing I did was remove the lower fan shroud (the upper had removed itself... whoops), but that's about as far as I got. The two lower bolts holding the lower shroud to the core support were almost unrecognizable due to rust. I cant justify bolting new parts to rust, so I'm at a stand still until I get a new core support. For a dual headlight setup it would be about 250-300 bucks to my door from a few different vendors. I dont mind if its new or used, just rust free and the correct fit. I am gonna stick with the current grille/light setup. Attached is a picture of said rust, looking up from the bottom.

[FunKing85]

Also, that cross member that is visible at the bottom is of some concern. Definitely not correct.

[FunKing85]

I've noticed some more rust on the upper mounting brackets of both front fenders, the passenger side also has a small quarter sized hole in the lower part under the reflector. New fenders may be in order, I've already accepted the fact that i'll need a fresh paint job. Good thing I don't have a women around to complain about the $$$ i'll be parting with. What's the deal with aftermarket fenders? I suppose a parts truck may be in order, I've been looking, but so far none of them are better off as far as rust goes.

[FunKing85]

More pics

[FunKing85]

I've collected alot of parts and I'm getting ready to replace the fenders, inner and outer, core support, grille, and lights. if anyone could point me toward a thread that covers a detailed front clip removal, I'd be grateful. Time to kill the rust.

[dmack91]

Just going by memory as I haven't pulled mine apart yet for paint. Bolts holding the rear of the fenders to the cab, bolts holding the core support to the frame, radiator hoses, wiring. Should be able to lift the whole assembly off. Ma have to pull the bumper for clearance.

Truck looks good. Are you still in Oregon?

[FunKing85]

Originally Posted by dmack91

Just going by memory as I haven't pulled mine apart yet for paint. Bolts holding the rear of the fenders to the cab, bolts holding the core support to the frame, radiator hoses, wiring. Should be able to lift the whole assembly off. Ma have to pull the bumper for clearance.

Truck looks good. Are you still in Oregon?

Sounds about right, just never done it before so I wanna be sure.

I was in Oregon until about three weeks ago, drove back to FL in the truck and plan on staying a while

[FunKing85]

Well, a big step in the right direction today. I have been weary of really digging into this truck because its my daily driver, and with only a motorcycle as a backup. Living in Florida, that makes for a very wet alternative, specially in the summer. Did some searching around and ended up with the perfect solution:

[FunKing85]

1987 r30 (or r10? cant figure it out) V6 rwd longbed. Shes mildly rusty and runs like a champ. Brakes are shot, but for 2k it does the job. My father and I are planning on sharing it for work and for towing, gonna get it tuned up for daily driving in the next few weeks then start the tear down. I guess I'm now one of those weird guys with two broke trucks now, truly part of the club!

[FunKing85]

Been busy on everything but this truck, in the last week I've rebuilt the calipers on the longbed, changed the power steering pump and the two lines, have some brake hoses to install as well. Installed a new clutch in my 74 cb750, changed a wheel bearing on a hyundai. It's the little things that distract me. Have two big orders enroute, pics to come, but i should have everything major to do the whole front clip. Gonna do some leak searching and noise finding today before the tear down. It's all happenin

[Shifty One]

Rust never sleeps. I like your R10 as well!

[jjzepplin]

Good job! You are getting lots done! Gotta redo a bearing in the front of my Toyota as the first attempt failed. I think the old hub I used stretched the inner race and is not good right now. I found out after I did it that I should have used a new hub too. My bad- first front wheel bearing on one of these. POOP!