For Those Doing Disk Brakes. 60-66

[badriand]

I still have drums on back, a lot of new vehicles still have drums on back. I used the 2 stock holes and drilled 2 new ones through the firewall.

[mtburg71]

Thanks again, all these questions, should of read the earlier post where you explained that. doh.

[mtburg71]

Also, where is the best place to get new brake lines for a decent price. How about if I bend my own, where can I get the supplies. Thanks again.

[502tripower]

Originally Posted by mtburg71

Also, where is the best place to get new brake lines for a decent price.

Most any parts store but, you might try looking for a clutch and brake supply. That is where the parts house buy them from as well and more than likely you can get a better price. Good Luck

[aggie91]

I'm fairly new to this site, but I did this same swap about 10 years ago on my 65. I already had the truck complete and did not want to repaint anything, so I just swapped out ball joints in the upper and lower arms, used spindles from a 82 (for free, a buddy put on dropped spindles). Bought new calipers, rotors, bearings and brake lines at an Advance Auto Parts (I think, may have been a Western Auto). New outer tie rods for a 82, used my existing outers as the inners and used the new adjusting sleeves that I got from Fatman Fabrication. At the same time, I swapped in a 9" with disc brakes into the rear and used a 69 Corvette 4 wheel disc master cylinder. No power booster. I adjusted the bias with a wilwood prop valve.

Truck was great and stopped on a dime. When I redo the truck soon, I will ad a power booster of some kind.

The great thing about the front suspension on these trucks is that it remained the same from 63-87. The only changes along the way was to rubber bushings in 73, the lower arms attached with 2 ubolts that were larger starting in 73, and of course the spindles for discs starting in 71. The spindles changed again in 73 to work with the better ball joints and the tie rods were updated along with the center link and the idler arm. The same basic crossmember and solid bushings where used in the 1 ton trucks upto 1991 (cab & chassis and the crew cab versions). Suburbans where the same until 1991 also.

[kevindtimm]

so the big question remains, what about the torsion bar trucks? those of us with 60-62 would like to hear some success/horror stories too

[502tripower]

Originally Posted by kevindtimm

so the big question remains, what about the torsion bar trucks? those of us with 60-62 would like to hear some success/horror stories too

It is basically the same swap. If you can find a 73'-87' front cross member use the whole thing. As aggie mentioned the 73'-87' use the newer bushings and ball joints and are much more available.You just have to drill a few extra holes to mount the cross member and mount the steering box. It will go right in. Its no big deal. One thing to keep in mind because you will need to use the full front cross member is it is easier to pull both the engine and trany to make the change over. In the long run it will be worth it. Good Luck

[kevindtimm]

Thanks for the info. My biggest 'concern' would be about how this will work with the boxed frame on the '62 (that wasn't done in the later years)

[502tripower]

Originally Posted by kevindtimm

Thanks for the info. My biggest 'concern' would be about how this will work with the boxed frame on the '62 (that wasn't done in the later years)

I have a couple of friends that have done this swap. I really isn't a big deal. You just have to get in there and do it. I am buying a 61' tomorrow and will be doing the swap as well. I am sure it can be done in a weekend.

[**grumpy**]

Originally Posted by aggie91

I'm fairly new to this site, but I did this same swap about 10 years ago on my 65. I already had the truck complete and did not want to repaint anything, so I just swapped out ball joints in the upper and lower arms, used spindles from a 82 (for free, a buddy put on dropped spindles). Bought new calipers, rotors, bearings and brake lines at an Advance Auto Parts (I think, may have been a Western Auto). New outer tie rods for a 82, used my existing outers as the inners and used the new adjusting sleeves that I got from Fatman Fabrication. At the same time, I swapped in a 9" with disc brakes into the rear and used a 69 Corvette 4 wheel disc master cylinder. No power booster. I adjusted the bias with a wilwood prop valve.

Truck was great and stopped on a dime. When I redo the truck soon, I will ad a power booster of some kind.

The great thing about the front suspension on these trucks is that it remained the same from 63-87. The only changes along the way was to rubber bushings in 73, the lower arms attached with 2 ubolts that were larger starting in 73, and of course the spindles for discs starting in 71. The spindles changed again in 73 to work with the better ball joints and the tie rods were updated along with the center link and the idler arm. The same basic crossmember and solid bushings where used in the 1 ton trucks upto 1991 (cab & chassis and the crew cab versions). Suburbans where the same until 1991 also.

So am I reading this right...? I don't have to replace the upper/lower arms? Just replace the ball joints, and get newer spindles and brake hardware? and tierods too...

It would be easier on me if this was the case.

Could someone spell this out in plain-speak? Thanks

[502tripower]

Originally Posted by **grumpy**

So am I reading this right...? I don't have to replace the upper/lower arms? Just replace the ball joints, and get newer spindles and brake hardware? and tierods too...

It would be easier on me if this was the case.

Could someone spell this out in plain-speak? Thanks

Grumpy, First of all what are you working on? If you have a 63-66 Then yes you do need to replace the upper and lower A-arms, spindles, center link, tie rod ends and, master cylinder to accommodate the disc brakes but, if you have 60-62 it is easier to replace to whole front cross member with a cross member from a 73'-87'. You can use the 71'-72' as well but they are harder to find and use the steel bushings and old ball joints where the 73'-87' uses the newer rubber bushings and ball joints and is much easier to come by as mentioned in the earlier posts. Personally I like using the entire cross member regardless of the what year. That way you can rebuild everything roll it under the rig bolt it up and go with the exception of mounting the steering box. Just have to make a couple of spacers drill a couple of holes and mount the steering shaft. This is no be deal . Its not that hard. Just do it...

[mtburg71]

The only thing you have to keep in mind is the ball joints you buy should be for the year of the spindles. I made this mistake. The control arms are the same, you will have fun grinding the rivets on the old control arms ball joint. New ball joints come with nutz and boltz. Have fun and good luck.

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by **grumpy**

So am I reading this right...? I don't have to replace the upper/lower arms? Just replace the ball joints, and get newer spindles and brake hardware? and tierods too...

It would be easier on me if this was the case.

Could someone spell this out in plain-speak? Thanks

If you do not mind the harsher ride the steel bushing give you, then YES, you ONLY need to swap out the Ball Joints, Spindles, and get the new Adjusting Sleeves that use the later model outter tie rods and use your existing outter tie rods as the inner ones. I did it that way.

At the time I did my swap, my existing frame, suspension was already custom painted and I did not want to have to get the later model arms repainted to match and replace the rubber bushings. My steel ones were new and doing it the way 502tripower suggest, meant A LOT MORE work. All I had to do was detail the spindles, calipers, tie rods, adjuster sleeves and the new rotors and I was done. Once all the parts were ready, it took a Friday evening to take it apart, Saturday morning to put together and had the brakes bleed that evening. I did not swap to power steering, I did not even have to take off the center link or idler arm. I was very happy with my swap and would do it again with or without the power steering.

502 is correct in that the 73-87 upper and lower arms would result in a better ride. BUT that is more work if your existing bushings are in good shape. Save that part of the swap for when you need to replace the bushings.

[502tripower]

Originally Posted by aggie91

If you do not mind the harsher ride the steel bushing give you, then YES, you ONLY need to swap out the Ball Joints, Spindles, and get the new Adjusting Sleeves that use the later model outter tie rods and use your existing outter tie rods as the inner ones. I did it that way.

At the time I did my swap, my existing frame, suspension was already custom painted and I did not want to have to get the later model arms repainted to match and replace the rubber bushings. My steel ones were new and doing it the way 502tripower suggest, meant A LOT MORE work. All I had to do was detail the spindles, calipers, tie rods, adjuster sleeves and the new rotors and I was done. Once all the parts were ready, it took a Friday evening to take it apart, Saturday morning to put together and had the brakes bleed that evening. I did not swap to power steering, I did not even have to take off the center link or idler arm. I was very happy with my swap and would do it again with or without the power steering.

502 is correct in that the 73-87 upper and lower arms would result in a better ride. BUT that is more work if your existing bushings are in good shape. Save that part of the swap for when you need to replace the bushings.

aggie, Excellent advice. I was looking at this as a rebuild not a spindle and brake swap.

[aggie91]

I think for the 60-62 guys, you could just do the ball joints/spindles/etc I outline above. I am not real familiar with the a-arms on those years and what the ball joints look like.

Can someone post up some pics of those areas?

[joe231]

Originally Posted by badriand

The electric connector i ran through a hole in the firewall and connected into the rear brake lights off of the brake pedal. So when you hit the brakes it kicks off the booster.

Sorry, I don't understand that statement, can you explain further? What do you mean by "it kicks off the booster"? The electrical connector is hooked to the pressure differential switch. Here is an excerpt from howstuffworks.com

"Pressure Differential Switch
The pressure differential valve is the device that alerts you if you have a leak in one of your brake circuits. The valve contains a specially shaped piston in the middle of a cylinder. Each side of the piston is exposed to the pressure in one of the two brake circuits. As long as the pressure in both circuits is the same, the piston will stay centered in its cylinder. But if one side develops a leak, the pressure will drop in that circuit, forcing the piston off-center. This closes a switch, which turns on a light in the instrument panel of the car."

[badriand]

Yea not sure why i even put that. The 12 volt connector is for the pro valve not the booster. Sorry for the confusion.

[jeff"s62]

Originally Posted by 502tripower

I have a couple of friends that have done this swap. I really isn't a big deal. You just have to get in there and do it. I am buying a 61' tomorrow and will be doing the swap as well. I am sure it can be done in a weekend.

Hey 502, when you do this swap can you post pics and give info.? I'm sure we 60-62 guys would really appreciate it. I have a '72 donor truck and was not too sure about the crossmember swap. Thanks, Jeff

[502tripower]

Originally Posted by jeff"s62

Hey 502, when you do this swap can you post pics and give info.? I'm sure we 60-62 guys would really appreciate it. I have a '72 donor truck and was not too sure about the crossmember swap. Thanks, Jeff

The 61' deal fell through. Still looking...

[soba_03]

Ok just asking, I got the master cylinger and booster mounted to the fire wall on the 61. Question is where do i get the vaccum from. I was thinking I could pull it from the vaccum port with a tee off of where the vaccum advance pulls from. Any thoughts would be great.

It's got the original 235 I6. Any help would be great. I'm completely open for suggestions.


***UPDATE**** Don't listen to my foolishness, by taping off at the vaccum port I only have vaccum for brakes when throttle plate is opened. I got the plug out of the Manifold. It was kinda scary though, 47 years of Don't want to budge. A trusty blow torch got it to give in and not crack or break anything.

[NF65Fleetside]

do you guys just swap out the whole rearend to do the 5 lug conversion in the back?

[soba_03]

Well now I'm going to keep the 6 lugs in the back. I will eventually probally buy a set of 5 lug axels. But often times a 5 lug rearend is swapped out. I don't have one to throw under mine so I'm going to use a disk brake conversion kit for this year. So I will be running 5 lug up front and 6 in the rear. The wheels are closed centers so no one will know.

[1Bad62Pro/Street]

http://www.classicperform.com/

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1960-1972 Chevy Truck
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[soba_03]

Thanks 1Bad, been all over that site. See if you can find a rear disc kit for a 60-62. it's not there that I can find.

I used CPP for the master and hyd clutch set up.

[badriand]

CPP has some quality parts but not on my budget so i have to improvise. You can put get a 5 disc rearend also just have cut the perch mounts off and weld spring perches on for coils.