Ouch cracked frame???

[ghettoluxury]

Originally Posted by ghettoluxury

Are u using a 110 flux core welder on this? If so that's a huge no no.
You need a 220 welder for penetration

THIS WELDER SHOULD NEVER BE USED TO WELD A FRAME

[SCOTI]

Did you repair the original flaw before plating w/reinforcement?

[68_c10_on20s]

You gota be kidding me right?Yes its a 110 mig but I was running it on the hotest setting it seemed to be doing fine plus I also intend to drill a few holes thru and bolt some extra support bolts as well

[N2TRUX]

I don't think they are kidding. From the looks of your welds, it doesn't "appear" to have decent penetration.

It might hold just fine. Are you willing to take the chance and have to do it all again?

[SCOTI]

Everyone will go through the learning curve when they start picking up the welding gun so don't be offended. You had the balls to give it a shot; kudos to you. Now it's time for analyzing & learning what to do to improve.

The pics make it hard to qualify the quality of penetration but the inconsistency w/the weld bead suggests it's possibly suspect. Wire brush it off & lets get a better view of the weld beads. How about a pic of the back-side to see how the penetration is?

I know I went through a bunch of scrap metal on my stuff before I felt my penetration & weld beads were sufficient. I still stuggle @ times because I have difficulty 'seeing' what I'm trying to weld. If that happens.... I get to grind it off & do it over.

Did you repair the actual crack?

[mongoose]

Originally Posted by ghettoluxury

Are u using a 110 flux core welder on this? If so that's a huge no no.
You need a 220 welder for penetration

yeah those look like poo and can probably hold 10 lbs.. but you could do it with the right 110 machine.. don't need a 220 machine at all.

[Shane]

Originally Posted by mongoose

yeah those look like poo and can probably hold 10 lbs.. but you could do it with the right 110 machine.. don't need a 220 machine at all.

a 110 volt machine is NOT capable of the amperage required for proper penetration.

please do not spread false information that could get someone hurt.

[Skirkpat]

Originally Posted by mongoose

yeah those look like poo and can probably hold 10 lbs.. but you could do it with the right 110 machine.. don't need a 220 machine at all.

I am not a pro welder, but I have taken enough welding classes to know that a 110 flux core is not sufficient to put down the weld that needs to be on that frame in that spot. It's like painting your truck with a rattle can, and calling it a paint job, it may be alright in your eyes, but it's no paint job.

[Skirkpat]

Do yourself a favor, and everyone that will ride in it, IE: the Children you mention. Grind it back down, trailer it to a welder, and get it done right. It is not something you will get a second chance at if it fails. People die from those kinds of failures.

[ghettoluxury]

Originally Posted by 68_c10_on20s

You gota be kidding me right?Yes its a 110 mig but I was running it on the hotest setting it seemed to be doing fine plus I also intend to drill a few holes thru and bolt some extra support bolts as well

Sorry not kidding at all that welder even at its highest setting will not penetrate well enough through the thickness of your frame. Like one of the others said if you can't get a 220 welder than take the truck to a weld shop.

Just tryin to look out for the safty of you and your family.

[hotrodrookie]

Try not to be so harsh on him he did try and weld the sh** out of it, except the weld ended up looking like buzzard poop cuz its too cold. I have the same little mig and cO2 bottle. If you really want to fix that yourself then grind off all the plate you attached to the frame and bevel out the crack and make sure you drill a hole on both side of the crack so it doesnt reapear. Preheat the crack with an oxy/acty torch and while its hot fill in the crack and the end holes. Make sure that the weld bead isnt bunching up like bird poop, if it is heat the area with the torch some more. The weld bead should want to flatten out and flow into both pieces of metal. You might as well do this to both sides of the crack being that you probly wont penetrate properly from one side. The welds should be sucked into the metal and shouldnt have any random nipples popping out. Then you can knock them down a little bit with a grinder so you can plate it. Give yourself some extra insurance and weld a plate to the backside of the crack "inside the frame channel" Forget the bolts but drill the plate like swiss cheese and plug weld it. Don't forget to preheat the frame before you fill in the plug weld. Just aim for the upper half of the holes and melt the base metal then fill in the rest of the hole fusing the plate to the frame. Fill all the plug welds on the inside, then do a perimeter lap weld around the plate, "Pre-heat!" Do this to the outside of the frame and you might as well do it to the top and bottom while your at it.
Have fun penetrating.

[shortbed70]

First off I am a certified welder and you dont need a 220 welder to get penetration on 3/16" frame metal. What needs to be done is bevel the ends of your patch plate to around 45 degree angle then clean the wee out of your frame. Then tack all corners and bends and a few between the long areas. Now when welding start on your thicker (frame) and roll your bead into your patch. Preferably using a c pattern or circle to push your weld never pull the gun twards you or away from your weld puddle because that will contaminate the weld. I have a 110 and a friend of mine builds roll cages for race cars with his miller 135. BTW I am certified to 3/8 plate. If your welder can upgrade to gas do it and get some .030 wire and 75/25 argon/co2 or you can use straight co2 just makes a little dirtier weld. I would weld it for you but distance. Good luck.

[shortbed70]

As for the getting someone killed thing...If done correctly with a 110 it can be just fine but flux core and no beveling of edges no. 220 are ideal but with a skilled person a 110 will be fine as long as you know the limits. Not trying to start a p-in match just saying I have welded brackets to rear ends and alot of frame parts and NEVER had a failure with my clarke 135 welder.

[N2TRUX]

Guys I think 68_c10_on20s gets our point. Lets let him decide what is next rather than keep piling on.

[royo]

Could you use a stick welder? or is it just use a mig

[Skirkpat]

A good welder could get it done with a stick welder, and the right rod...I watched alot of Equipment repaired with a Miller Bobcat during my 13 years at the Ford plant. and that equipment will take ALOT more abuse than a truck frame.

[shaneo2112RUSH]

Originally Posted by shortbed70

First off I am a certified welder and you dont need a 220 welder to get penetration on 3/16" frame metal. What needs to be done is bevel the ends of your patch plate to around 45 degree angle then clean the wee out of your frame. Then tack all corners and bends and a few between the long areas. Now when welding start on your thicker (frame) and roll your bead into your patch. Preferably using a c pattern or circle to push your weld never pull the gun twards you or away from your weld puddle because that will contaminate the weld. I have a 110 and a friend of mine builds roll cages for race cars with his miller 135. BTW I am certified to 3/8 plate. If your welder can upgrade to gas do it and get some .030 wire and 75/25 argon/co2 or you can use straight co2 just makes a little dirtier weld. I would weld it for you but distance. Good luck.

I agree with shortbed70 and was thinking the same thing on beveling the ends of the patch pannel when reading the thread!!

[Skirkpat]

Originally Posted by shaneo2112RUSH

I agree with shortbed70 and was thinking the same thing on beveling the ends of the patch pannel when reading the thread!!

First off, I am not a certified welder, but only because I did not take the certification, I have though attended All the classes to to do so , I am however a certified (NTMA) Machinist, and am lacking one semester of an associates degree in Machine tool technology (probably not getting it either)....Miller says 3/16 is at the outside of what the machines are designed for, A 140 amp Millermatic at full duty cycle might be able to do the job, I would not trust the penetration, I would at the least ALWAY make more than one pass. And a Novice is not going to get it right without Lottery winning luck.

And Shortbed70 I would think twice about a cage built with one...when I learned to build them from the Chassis Builder at Rherrer Morrison, I was taught that TIG is what is to be used, but the build theirs out made of Chromoly? Not saying your friend does not get them stuck together, but, well I would'nt race with it.

[Shane]

Ever get the feeling you're being ignored N2TRUX ...

[N2TRUX]

Not any more..