Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Android04

Looks so good. I'm jealous of the frame, and really liking the brace kit.

Honestly, for the price, i could not beat it. Portbuilt has a really nice piece, but i HATE the box look. You can tell they did it because they can table cut all the pieces and then just weld them together. Do not get me wrong, it is a nice piece, but the previous version was so much nicer looking in my opinion. So anyways, i found this one on Summit site, had to wait for 2.5 months to get it, but happy i waited. it looks really good, comes with Engine mounts and tranny mount, both work for LS or old school motors and trannys. At 999.99 its hard to beat.

[0ldSoul]

I agree, the tubular look on that is much nicer compared to the Porterbuilt. Looks awesome! Loving the progress, oh and great choice on the wheels.

[SCOTI]

That set-up actually looks like an earlier PB version that utilized more tubing.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

That set-up actually looks like an earlier PB version that utilized more tubing.

Exactly. That is what i was looking for at their site, even emailed and asked them about it. They no longer offer the tubular version. So i went this way.

[88Stanger]

So, updates from this past weekend.....
So i bought the Deluxe kit from Steve at EZ Air Ride. What an awesome guy he is. I have a cell number that i can text him or call him on and within a few hours he has always answered! His customer support is above and beyond. His packaging is also great. This is a bag of nuts and bolts that came with the kit. By the way, he sends a personalized message to all who buy a kit from him.
I have CPP Tubular upper and lower arms, lowers are built for air bags.

[88Stanger]

some more of the progress.
Here are the upper plates for the front

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by 0ldSoul

I agree, the tubular look on that is much nicer compared to the Porterbuilt. Looks awesome! Loving the progress, oh and great choice on the wheels.

Thank you OldSoul!! i Appreciate it.

[0ldSoul]

I've heard nothing but good things about EZ Airride, pretty sure when I convert mine to air I'll be using his kit. Loving the progress, it looks immaculate. Also, I'm digging the flat black/gloss combo on the wheels!

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by 0ldSoul

I've heard nothing but good things about EZ Airride, pretty sure when I convert mine to air I'll be using his kit. Loving the progress, it looks immaculate. Also, I'm digging the flat black/gloss combo on the wheels!

Thank you sir.
Yea, Steve with EZ Air Ride is awesome. He will honestly tell you what you need, he will not over sell something, and he is always there if you need, questions and such.
The rims, it was interesting because i nor the guy selling them really knew that this was how they are, and now he is looking at a set for this car. They really are a cool look, not cheap but not expensive really either.

[88Stanger]

Ok all, I am stuck and frustrated.

Here is my issue. I have CPP 2.5 drop spindles, CaptainFab's power steering conversion with new power steering box installed, new pitman arm installed and a 1966 C10 non power steering center link.
I have a full front end rebuild kit, i mean everything from new ball joints, to bushings and such for the stock upper and lower arms, and so on. I am not sure what year or years the kit is from and no i cannot find where i bought the kit from, but anyways the parts all put together will not work. The center link is hitting the frame.
So, here is where i am. I will buy a new kit, whatever i need, i just do not know what works. As you can tell i am not good at front ends, i am learning. So, any help here is greatly appreciated!!

Thanks

[88Stanger]

ok, so i went out and took another look and here is what i found. If i move the idler arm forward about 1.5" everything seems to line up. Please correct me if i am wrong, but will this work?

[SCOTI]

Verify you don't have the center link flipped. It's a common mistake.

[88Stanger]

One hole exits, other did not, yet.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

One hole exits, other did not, yet.

Ahh.... Your statement confused me but then I looked @ your reference pic again & noticed only 1 bolt securing the Idler bracket.

That is weird. The holes are placed to keep the steering pivot points parallel. I've never looked into Captainfabs power steering adapter set-up to know specifics but I'm assuming it doesn't alter anything so the Idler position shouldn't change.

Something doesn't seem right w/that so keep scrutinizing the parts compatibility. I'm wondering if you need a later center-link? When I did my early drum-to-disc brake swaps in the 90's I swapped to 71-72 center-links to keep the tie-rods consistent. I never investigated if the center-links were physically different beyond that.

[88Stanger]

i am waiting for a response from CaptainFab on what kit or parts he suggest to use.
I did find that POL has a specific Pitarm arm made for the power steering conversion. It may be shorter than the standard 1970 pitarm i have, but that still may cause issues with how and where the idler arm is mounted, this i am not sure of, so i get whatever CaptainFab suggests.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

i am waiting for a response from CaptainFab on what kit or parts he suggest to use.
I did find that POL has a specific Pitarm arm made for the power steering conversion. It may be shorter than the standard 1970 pitarm i have, but that still may cause issues with how and where the idler arm is mounted, this i am not sure of, so i get whatever CaptainFab suggests.

I would verify if there's a difference & then ask POL why their set-up requires a 'specific' (different vs stock manual-to-power replacement p/n) pitman.
Manual to power steering swaps require different pitman arms from the factory. I would find out if their Pitman arm is different beyond that.

[Captainfab]

With the steering box located using the included template, the stock draglink should not be touching the crossmember with the idler arm in it's original location. Do you have the pitman arm on all the way? And the pitman arm is something special from POL?

[88Stanger]

Well damn! I got that damn Pitman arm about 1/2 way, using an air racket even! Arm still Hits! So, with all that said, mu frustration level at a high, I found that POL sells a direct bolt on Rack & Pinion system that works with airbags and lowered trucks. No frame alterations required, so..... i am thinking i will go that route. Also less parts on the front suspension and it costs $886.00, i think i may just order this and call it all good. I will have a bunch of extra parts for sale for sure.

[88Stanger]

Ok, so i pulled the trigger and bought the No Modification Required bolt in Powered Rack & Pinion from POL. its like, if i am going to do this, go all out, to some extent.

Also, i bought an aluminium finned differential cover from Jegs. Well, when i put the rear all the up into the c-notch the track arm hits the cover, bad. So, i am thinking that i will just need to stick with stock. Sucks because i really like it, but oh well. I may see if i could grind off part of the fins, but i just hate doing this kind of thing. If it does not work the way it was maid, maybe that is a sign to just go with stock.

[Captainfab]

Do those CPP tubular control arms move the spindle rearward even just a little? That would cause the interference. Is the pitman arm you got from POL an exact OEM replacement? Those aftermarket aluminum differential covers require a panhard bar with a jog in it. Someone makes one, I just don't remember who.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Do those CPP tubular control arms move the spindle rearward even just a little? That would cause the interference. Is the pitman arm you got from POL an exact OEM replacement? Those aftermarket aluminum differential covers require a panhard bar with a jog in it. Someone makes one, I just don't remember who.

I believe CPP made one w/the bend to clear the finned alum covers.

As far as upgrading to POL's R&P set-up? After the issues noted thus far... I would have some concerns about any of their products until it's determined WTH is going on w/the current replacement parts.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I believe CPP made one w/the bend to clear the finned alum covers.

As far as upgrading to POL's R&P set-up? After the issues noted thus far... I would have some concerns about any of their products until it's determined WTH is going on w/the current replacement parts.

Well, I think CaptainFab hit a good one on the head. The CPP Tubular Arms i think adjust the spindle slightly and this may also have an effect after things are bolted up. But honestly, i think it is actually the pitman arm. I cannot get it all the way onto the shaft. I used a dam rattle gun, my extension and still it just stopped about an inch away from where i think it should be. With that said, i could get it there, use heat, use a larger breaker bar or a "helper" on the end of my breaker bar. Either way, i just frustrated with it honestly and maybe it was just enough for me to go ahead and pull the trigger on the rack.
Just as a note, the entire rebuild kit is from EBAY, the upper and lower arms and Spindle are from CPP, so it could be several factors here honestly I hate piece together parts from different company's on things like this. Its just like the diff cover. It will not fit without a bend in it, but the jack wagons that sell the cover do not tell you that!
Anyways, its just been a weekend. I am done with this Covid crap also...
Anyways, Seriously, Thank You to you and CaptainFab!! You two have been awesome help recently. There are alot of others that have helped also, but recently you two have been great, so Thanks again. God Bless

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Do those CPP tubular control arms move the spindle rearward even just a little? That would cause the interference. Is the pitman arm you got from POL an exact OEM replacement? Those aftermarket aluminum differential covers require a panhard bar with a jog in it. Someone makes one, I just don't remember who.

Awe, you know what, that may be it! I know that the arms do have an adjustment in them for the bagged issues that can come up with dropping it.
The Pitman arm is a direct replacement part.

I did though last night purchase the rack and pinion kit for POL. I really have wanted one but they always require frame cutting and rework and not that this would stop me, but the price was typically $1400.00 or more. This one is "Direct bolt on" and was only $900.00. I say only as if it was nothing, it is alot, but for correct steering, im in.

As for the bent arm, i did not know that. I may just look for that one.

Thanks CaptainFab!!!

[88Stanger]

Well, as you and CaptainFab said, there is a bent arm, just for this and the bagged issue. Summit has it, so its now on order. LOL. Again, Thanks Scoti and CaptainFab.
Damn, i be selling alot of new stuff... lol

[Modges'66]

WOW! Very nice build! Great work!
I am just checking in to see what's going on!
Just out of curiosity, earlier someone commented to flip the center steering link, and you said that you couldn't because the holes are tapered....but I am pretty sure that if you flipped it 180º end-for-end it might work, because the holes are offset from the centerline of the rod.
I am pretty sure that I did this once... But that is probably all behind you now...
Stay well!