poor mans lowering job....?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by my new 72

I am against it on the 67-72 trucks. I just don't like the issues it causes.

Well, I can only speak from my personal experience.... On the front of my 68, I converted from stock 6-lug drums & factory ride height to almost 6" of drop w/disc brakes using 73-up 2.5"drop spindles, brakes (calipers, rotors, & lines/prop-valve), tie-rod ends, drag link, sway bar, pitman/idler arms (73-up manual steer) & have had no issues w/rubbing.

I could see a problem if someone used incorrect backspacing, but I feel you would see the same issue irregardless of year model (ex: a 72 w/incorrect backspace is just as bad as a 73 w/incorrect backspace). I can say this w/some measure of confirmation since I own both a 68 & a 74; both lowered w/spindles. The control arms are slightly different as far as bushings, yet similar enough dimensionally to be a valid comparison. The main consideration is trucks that utilize spindles for lowering require different offsets than those dropped using modified arms or cut springs.

My 68 doesn't rub @ all using the stock 68 control arms w/73-up drop parts & stock offset 15x6" van ralleys (4" b.space). My 74 does rub the arms @ full lock on the steering, but it has 18x8" wheels w/5.25 b.space.

Is your truck lowered? What parts did you use? Where did it rub? I'm curious if I was just lucky or if there's something I haven't considered when giving advice.

[68w/sbc406]

do controll arms and spindles change anywhere in the 73-87 era? i went to a local drop shop and he told me that 67-87 arms are close enough to work properly when swaped. just make sure you maintain the right year parts. and he also told me that in 81 there is two different spindle sizes on 1/2 tons, a light duty and a heavy duty. just wondering if anyone else has heard that?

[my new 72]

Well, the issue is not back spacing, it's the 3" drop spindles and 2" drop springs. It could also be the belltech crap spindles the PO used. But I know for sure the rims are not the problem. My 18x8.5's do not rub, but the PO's 17's did, and so did a set of stock ralley wheels. Just use the right year stuff and don't be cheap.

[crazy longhorn]

Wheel backspacing, & also the amount of drop on the spindle can cause problems. Many of the drop spindles listed for the 73 up trucks are a 3" drop(Belltech for one). the extra drop can cause problems with some wheels depending on offset. Honestly, using the later spindles should not be a problem....crazyL

[crazy longhorn]

Originally Posted by 68w/sbc406

do controll arms and spindles change anywhere in the 73-87 era? i went to a local drop shop and he told me that 67-87 arms are close enough to work properly when swaped. just make sure you maintain the right year parts. and he also told me that in 81 there is two different spindle sizes on 1/2 tons, a light duty and a heavy duty. just wondering if anyone else has heard that?

I have 75 spindles on my 69, if you swap the balljoint assemblys, & the tierods/center link, they will bolt right on using the early a arms. Yes, there are heavy & lite on the spindles/ rotors in the later trucks. The heavy are 1 .250 thick on the rotors, & the lite are 1".....crazyL

[68w/sbc406]

Originally Posted by crazy longhorn

I have 75 spindles on my 69, if you swap the balljoint assemblys, & the tierods/center link, they will bolt right on using the early a arms. Yes, there are heavy & lite on the spindles/ rotors in the later trucks. The heavy are 1 .250 thick on the rotors, & the lite are 1".....crazyL

thanks crazyL

[crazy longhorn]

just use the ball joints/ tierods for the yr of the spindle that you use. Best of luck, crazyL

[BraveDave]

I did the 4-1/2" and 4" drop on my '72 and the ride is better than original. I agree with everyone else. Don't do it cheap - do it right the first time.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by my new 72

Well, the issue is not back spacing, it's the 3" drop spindles and 2" drop springs. It could also be the belltech crap spindles the PO used. But I know for sure the rims are not the problem. My 18x8.5's do not rub, but the PO's 17's did, and so did a set of stock ralley wheels. Just use the right year stuff and don't be cheap.

Yes, there is more chance of interference w/3" drop spindles. My 68 uses the 2.5" Western Chassis, my 74 uses the 3" BellTech. But again, the only time my front wheels rub in the 74 is close to full lock. I did trim the a-arms back on both trucks.

I don't see what difference the year-model parts you use make in your reference to "being cheap". The difference is only between 2.5" & 3" spindles. The later 73-up a-arms actually ride smoother thanks to the newer rubber bushings vs. the older solid/rubber lined bushings & are easier to find in wrecking yards.

What is the back space of your 18x8.5's vs. the PO's 17's?

[nonstopproject]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Al

I was thinking about cutting my coils as well, front and rear. I don't want the 4/6 slammed look like some people on this thread. I want a conservative drop in the front and rear. I also want to keep my slight rake. Would cutting 1 coil off of all 4 really cause that many problems? Since I'm not going for a 4-6" drop in back, will it work better for me?

i cut one coil off the front and invested the $120 for 4" rear coils. i didn't want my daily driver slammed and i think it looks pretty good (conservative). cutting one coil off the front is perfectly fine, they don't fall out, and it still rides good. it was good for about 2" too. so your only real exspense is the coils. i also invested in lowering shocks (60 apiece, ouch) for the rear, make a big difference though.
hope that helps.

[silvertonguedevil]

Hey everybody, thanks for all of the information and replies. I think I'm just gonna bite the bullet and do it the right way.

[Bamm]

"Hey everybody, thanks for all of the information and replies. I think I'm just gonna bite the bullet and do it the right way."

You won't regret it........Jerry

[Fred T]

Originally Posted by silvertonguedevil

Hey everybody, thanks for all of the information and replies. I think I'm just gonna bite the bullet and do it the right way.

That's good news. Also, everyone missed the cheapest way to lower your truck. You let the air out of the tires!

[hgs_notes]

I did mine the simplest way I knew how back in 1987. I bought a new set of springs already calibrated for a 3.5" drop. I just replaced the springs all around, replaced the snubbers up front and I've been driving it ever since. I added a front sway bar from a 72 a short time later, not because I felt I needed it,m just because I wanted it. It did improve the handling through the corners though. It has one of the best rides I've ever had. I'm normally driving Tauruses and Impalas, etc for work, wife has a suburban, and this rides better hands down. It still has the shocks I bought before the drop. They were only a year or two old when I dropped it, so I left them. I still haul heavy loads with no problems and I pulled a boat for a while that was a 20 footer and weighed over 3000 lbs.

Now I'm afraid to "upgrade" to dropped spindles and slightly shorter springs because I'm afraid it will mess up the ride quality I've grown to love. The only things I want to do now is add about a 1" lowering block to the rear and replace all the bushings, etc and replace the shocks. I'm riding on Goodyear Eagle GTII's, 235-70-15 up front, 275-60-15 rear. I chose them because they had the highest load rating for the style and size when I was shopping, which was when I was pulling the boat. They have a stronger sidewall and so I think it effects the ride on the taller tires so its not so squishy feeling.

Good luck with your project. One thing to remember is that if you're not happy with it after a change, you can always make another change. Parts can be replaced and sold.

HG

[Figment412]

I would not recommend cutting coil springs as it would change the spring rate and change handeling.