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Old 08-02-2004, 10:35 AM   #26
bigblock73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bagged81
Bought and installed 20's.
And the pics are where?!?!?
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Old 08-02-2004, 10:51 AM   #27
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I flushed my A/C system and put in a new (not rebuilt) compressor and replaced the orifice tube. I got it vacuumed down and filled last night, but it isn't as cold as I would like it. I'll have to see if I can get some more R134 into it.

It feels good to be working on the truck again. I have been unable to walk for the last 2 months after a couple of surgeries on my ankle, and I'm just starting to get around again. Everything went to hell during that time, of course, so I have a lot of work ahead of me this Fall...

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Old 08-02-2004, 11:14 AM   #28
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Didn't get a lot done this weekend, but did get the new tires on the back of the dually, went with 235/85-16's to try and get a bit higher gear in it. Pulled a boat 116 miles and got a little over 7 mpg with the AC on - arghh..Boat didn't weigh much either. Might have been a fluke or something, maybe I didn't have the tank full on the last go around, but the MPG dropped some no doubt.

So I increased the tire pressures from 40 to 80 (rated PSI) may that will help some. Pisses me off that it got around 10 before I put new plugs, cap, rotor, fixed the exhaust leaks and unhooked the air pump junk.

Do you reckon that air pump would have made any difference in gas mileage? I leave Wed. on a 1400 mile round trip with the Dually pulling the race car, it's sounds like it's going to be an expensive trip! Truck seems to be running fine, not missing or nothing. I might try and crank some more timing in it to see if that will help some.
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Old 08-02-2004, 11:45 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigblock73
And the pics are where?!?!?
Soon! :p
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Old 08-02-2004, 01:23 PM   #30
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Nothing but mow the yard and a little work on some base boards in the house. I was a Lazy POS all weekend.
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Old 08-02-2004, 01:42 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slonaker
......and replaced the orifice tube. .....
Slonaker
Just wonedering where the orifice tube is, mine is an '84 with a non-working, old, empty AC system. Will be converting to R134 soon and changing the compressor and accumulator and will need to find the orifice tube.
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Old 08-02-2004, 02:34 PM   #32
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That tube is in the line that goes to the lower part of the AC case
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Old 08-02-2004, 02:36 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mckpaul
Just wonedering where the orifice tube is, mine is an '84 with a non-working, old, empty AC system. Will be converting to R134 soon and changing the compressor and accumulator and will need to find the orifice tube.
If you have factory A/C, the orifice tube is located between the high side fitting and the evaporator core. You can see a little crimp in the tube coming out of the bottom of the evaporator core that holds it in place.

Slonaker

EDIT: Beyond types too fast!
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Old 08-02-2004, 02:53 PM   #34
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What's the difference between an r-12 orifice tube and one designed to run with r-134? Any? Coming from eastern Canada (where it rarely get's over 90), I'm not to adept with A/C systems. The 105-110 degree heat here is making me want to learn, though!
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Old 08-02-2004, 04:37 PM   #35
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Thanks, I'll take a look when I get home from work.
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Old 08-02-2004, 04:47 PM   #36
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Got my temp gauge to work. I had already re-run the wire from the firewall to the sensor which didn't fix it, so i took apart the dash and found that one of the contacts had pulled away from the circuit board. So I tested it by grounding it, then ran it for 20 min idle and took it out a few blocks. It moved a little, but not a whole lot. What is the avg temp of a 350? This is a 77 GMC High Sierra. The gauge runs from C to H. It just got a little bit away from C...
like not even a quarter of the way. Replace sending unit?
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Old 08-02-2004, 06:53 PM   #37
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working on a new ceiling in the kitchen

have been looking at the vegetables in the garden , to hear them growing

did nothing on the Burb , too busy

drove "Ye Old Reliable" to the LPG specialist last week , to put a brand new installation , as the gas prices are again rocketing sky high

the difference will be tremendous , it will cost me the third of what I paid for regular unleaded 95 gas

price to pay for the installation : 1350 €

but it would be a full benefit after 10000 miles

I'm waiting till the car is done , to go to Normandie , in France , on vacation with the kids and my girl friend

waiting also for the APOW meeting at Antwerp the third weekend of august , 2500 american cars on one parking , it happens only once in a year

Cheers

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Old 08-03-2004, 02:42 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 76HighSierra
What's the difference between an r-12 orifice tube and one designed to run with r-134? Any? Coming from eastern Canada (where it rarely get's over 90), I'm not to adept with A/C systems. The 105-110 degree heat here is making me want to learn, though!
I don't think they usually differentiate. I have read that a Ford blue orifice tube works better with R134 than the white Chevy one does, but I have not tried it.

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Old 08-03-2004, 10:51 AM   #39
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I started the weekend projects early on Thurs night. I finished the new radiator install @ work ($120, 3-row, lifetime warr., delivered to me) & decided to go by Sears after work to pick-up a new battery (it's been slow starting the last couple of days).

I got a new battery & after installing it.... it wouldn't start @ all (yes.... the battery was confirmed good).

I wound up trailering it home & had to swap the starter out. What's the typical number of shims required when shimming a starter? I guess I've always been lucky (those who know me will laugh hardily @ that one) & never had to shim a single starter in my life. I started w/the thinnest shim, then to the next thickest, & now have the 2 thickest shims stacked but it still is noisy to me. What do you guys think?

Other than that.... I've just been trying to plan my strategy of maximizing my garage space when I start moving everything next weekend. Oh... hey what are you guys doing next weekend? I know where there'll be some cold beer & hot pizza !
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 08-03-2004, 12:15 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTI
What's the typical number of shims required when shimming a starter? I guess I've always been lucky (those who know me will laugh hardily @ that one) & never had to shim a single starter in my life.
Where did it come from? NAPA has the best fitting starters that I have never had to shim. Autozone it is a hit/miss?
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Old 08-03-2004, 01:00 PM   #41
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my project will come next weekend when i get my new Edelbrock 600cfm for my stock 350.. i will keep yall up to date when its done
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Old 08-03-2004, 01:16 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captkaos
Where did it come from? NAPA has the best fitting starters that I have never had to shim. Autozone it is a hit/miss?
I got one from Autozone but they didn't have a 'hi-torque' model. But, the more I thought about it, I wanted the hi-torque model so I took it back & bought one from O'Riellys instead. I used ORiellys for the hi-torque starter on my 68 beater & it didn't require shimming.

The noise is just a 'whining' sound as it starts.... not really a 'destructive' sound, just louder than it was (or should be).
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

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Old 08-03-2004, 03:46 PM   #43
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I managed to get a nice radiation burn from my 8 hour welding session on the frame. Next time wear long trousers and not shorts
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Old 08-03-2004, 09:34 PM   #44
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Yeah me too. I can't get used to not having auto headlights since all my newer trucks have it. I know I wouldn't remember to lock/unlock the convertor. Besides that just not me....
I picked up a wiring kit from bowtie overdrives for my 700r4 in the 85 (75 bucks or so) It gives me the option to manually lock the converter up in 2nd and 3rd and will automatically lockup in 4th, it WILL NOT lockup in 1st and the wiring diagram tells you how to wire it up to the brake switch so that when you press the brake it will unlock. Works great and was pretty simple to do!
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