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Old 10-13-2004, 06:26 AM   #26
Longhorn Man
its all about the +6 inches
 
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LOL...yeah, 50's buick...hell, almost ANY buick is a tank..but not a 63 ton one.
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Old 10-13-2004, 09:02 AM   #27
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Some vehicles *have* to have the wheels locked, some vehicles *have* to have them unlocked. Some can have it either way.

When I flat towed the diesel scout 10 hours back to GA, it was fine for the most part with the steering unlocked. Occassionally, if I tried to take a turn too sharp, the scout wouldn't follow (the wheels would stay straight ahead). Since the scout was heavier than the '92 chevy Z71 ext cab that was the tow vehicle, the scout went on its merry way while the rear of the Z71 would start coming around. Had that happen at 2 mph at a gas station even.

Be prepared to do it either way. A dolly would be better.

A bigger tow rig even better.

Once I have my 1310 (1 ton) 4x4 travelette (crewcab) longbox with the 166" wheelbase, I don't think I'll have to worry about towing anything anymore.
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Old 10-13-2004, 09:30 AM   #28
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unlock the wheels & change the front end to negative caster by adding as many shims as possible to the rear bolts of upper arm mounts. you might have to remove shims from the front bolts.
then it will follow you where ever you want to go.
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Old 10-13-2004, 11:09 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68C15
unlock the wheels & change the front end to negative caster by adding as many shims as possible to the rear bolts of upper arm mounts. you might have to remove shims from the front bolts.
then it will follow you where ever you want to go.

That's positive caster. You want positive caster for tracking, negative makes it easier to turn but it'll want to wander and may prefer being turned to straight.

The tilt to increase caster (for better handling or tracking when towing), is the same as if you were loading down the rear of the truck and not the front. Sounds to me like that's what you're trying to get him to do, right?
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Old 10-13-2004, 01:47 PM   #30
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no, what I am saying is to have the top of spindle ahead of bottom slightly. take one of the casters off your chair & lean it back. it will easily follow your hand when moving around in circles or straight. now lean ot the other way & do the same thing. I hope what I am saying makes sense. also going from memory positive caster is a rearward tilt & vice-versa. I will have to consult my book at work buried in my toolbox somewhere to verify the terminology.
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Old 10-13-2004, 02:22 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68C15
no, what I am saying is to have the top of spindle ahead of bottom slightly. take one of the casters off your chair & lean it back. it will easily follow your hand when moving around in circles or straight. now lean ot the other way & do the same thing. I hope what I am saying makes sense. also going from memory positive caster is a rearward tilt & vice-versa. I will have to consult my book at work buried in my toolbox somewhere to verify the terminology.

Negative caster will cause the wheels to turn and stay turned, at least wander badly. You *don't* want it. That's WHY you have positive caster, so it tracks better.

The reason the chair thing is different is because how you are pulling it and how the wheels mount. Think about it in terms of extremes. If you get an extreme negative caster, you are moving the contact point of the rubber in front of the lower hinge. This is drag in front of the hinge, so whenever you get a slight turn, it'll pull and try to keep turning.

When you have positive caster, the drag is behind the hinge, so it drags the wheels back straight after a turn.

There's a very good reason that no vehicles spec negative caster.
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Old 10-13-2004, 10:01 PM   #32
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I merely suggested this for ease of towing only. it will tow easier with negative caster than it would with positive caster.
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Old 10-14-2004, 12:04 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68C15
I merely suggested this for ease of towing only. it will tow easier with negative caster than it would with positive caster.
And I'm dissagreeing with that statement.
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Old 10-14-2004, 07:15 AM   #34
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seeing as how I have absolutely no intention of starting a flame war I think he should contact a reputable alignment shop for advice on what kind of changes if any to the frame-chassis being towed.
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Old 10-14-2004, 09:16 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68C15
seeing as how I have absolutely no intention of starting a flame war I think he should contact a reputable alignment shop for advice on what kind of changes if any to the frame-chassis being towed.

First, just because someone doesn't agree with you, doesn't mean it's an attempt to start a flame war.

Second, an alignment shop most likely won't have much experience with flat towing (ok, just ones I've dealt with myself are clueless). However, they can tell you what attributes are normally desirable in a vehicle.

Since shops normally just look in a book for the specs to use, I imagine they'll just say to leave it alone, since that's what people normally do when they drive a vehicle and also have it set up for flat towing. Problem is, without an engine, the front will be higher relative to the back than normal, resulting in less caster (which is what you are advocating anyway). I'm not sure if the reduced weight will be enough to make it easier.

I really don't advocate towing *anything* with an S10, but that doesn't mean that it can't be done. Since the roller frame will weigh much less, you might have more problems getting the wheels to return to center as well (they won't grip the ground as much).
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