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View Poll Results: Repops or Originals?
Reproduction Fenders (Goodmark) 26 47.27%
Fix the Originals. 29 52.73%
Voters: 55. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 12-15-2004, 01:02 PM   #26
spencra
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Hey demi, I'm originally from PA too. At least you were smart and moved to a place where you won't have to deal with rot. Your truck thanks you, i'm sure.

Me, I jumped out of the frying pan and into the fire by moving to CT. What the hell was I thinking?
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Old 12-15-2004, 01:29 PM   #27
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Hey Spencra - I couldn't believe the condition vehicles are in out here. There are so many 30+ year old vehicles being used as daily drivers that have never been painted or anything running around. As for our year trucks, there are so many out here as daily driver beaters it's staggering.

I used to work in a fab shop back east and removing and replacing rot was the daily grind. I don't miss doing that type of repair at all - unless there is absolutely no choice.

Then out here when I look at vehicles and I see a small spot of rust through - someone from originally out here would say, "Hell, that's really rotted, it's trash."

I would say that if one could find really nice oem sheetmetal ie. no dents or rust - to use it. I have also noticed that not all Arizona sheetmetal is originally from Az. This place is comprised of transplants - mostly from the northern mid-west or rust belt states.

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Old 12-15-2004, 01:45 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOTHERTRUCKERS
Why in your poll it says goodmark? when it should say Tri Plus, Tri Plus makes the fenders and other 67-72 sheetmetal parts not goodmark.
The reason I chose Goodmark is because it's the same stuff as Tri Plus, and more people know the brand Goodmark, and know it's good reproduction stuff.

Randy- Pics are a plus, but I've heard from numerous people that getting good repro fenders is like drawing straws. Maybe you just drew the right straw. Truck looks great nonetheless.

I know this question has been asked before, but I don't remember the answer. Is it true that you can only get passenger side cups?
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Old 12-15-2004, 01:57 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy70C-10
Hmmmmm, I just took a look at the polls, I wonder how many of those "fix the originals" guys are West coasters?
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Old 12-15-2004, 05:30 PM   #30
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I've had only one repop so far. And it was a nitemare installing. So as far as I'm concered I'd rather fix the old part frist. Besides it's cheaper to fix what you got then buy new anyday.
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Old 12-15-2004, 07:36 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevybill
.... Some of the vette guys are restoring these late 70's corvettes down to water clamps and stickers. Their cars will never be what the stingrays from 60's are as far as collectible status and highly sought after.
Isn't that what they used to say about those early 6cyl 53 vettes..... "they'll never have the collectability of the 1st series (60's) V-8's"? I know that's an apple/orange comparison, but some of these trucks are currently bringing in good $$. In a few years, it will only escalate.

My vote is a between-er. If the original is salvageable, do so. If not, a re-pop is only a nip/tuck away from a good fit & you don't have to mess w/all the rust in hard to reach (impossible to reach) spots.
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Old 12-15-2004, 07:54 PM   #32
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I wanted to do this once and use the truck as my daily driver, so I replaced everything that was rusty with Triplus. However, it isn't installed yet so I can't vouch for the fit. I got hood, doors, fenders, bumpers, grill.
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Old 12-15-2004, 08:01 PM   #33
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I can tell you guys this is that if many of you do not do your own bodywork on your trucks than buy repro fenders. Sometimes it is more expensive to repair an oem part than it is to bolt on a new undamaged panel. Plus, I can tell you that if someone came in to my shop with all new sheetmetal hanging on it and I give them a bid to paint it, it will be less expensive than if I have to prime and block the whole truck for two weeks due to bodyworked panels all over the vehicle. Sometimes it is worth trying to align the panels. Heck these truck came with about 5 lbs. of shims in them. Go with repro panels unless your panels are perfect with only minor dings. It will save you time and money in the long run. Plus if you come in to a bodyshop needing all bodywork, it will take longer than just sanding and shooting new panels.
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Old 12-15-2004, 09:56 PM   #34
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how about those tri plus doors. do they have that same nice solid thud as origanls when shut. are they as solid and as heavy. and are they making the 72 doors with the screw hole by the vent.
i prefer origanal but i dont want old repairs rotting on me in five years.

i have 2 new take off origanl tailgates here i wouldnt trade for 10 repos
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Old 12-15-2004, 10:10 PM   #35
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I would fix the originals if they were in reason. You know the fit and line up just make sure you prime and paint the back of the patch that's where alot of people go wrong.
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Old 12-15-2004, 10:19 PM   #36
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I am hate when part's dont line up. Do you see the area in red how fender sitcks out pass the grill ? Is that the way they looked from the factory ? It does not look right to me.

I don't mean to take a hit on your truck so dont get pissed. Please just wondering......
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Old 12-15-2004, 10:48 PM   #37
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Yes,they have a bit of a reveal.Looks just like my factory 72.
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Old 12-15-2004, 11:36 PM   #38
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I dont know about the 67-72 fenders, but having worked on the 73-87 fenders, no matter how much farting around I and my friends have done, half the time those things never seem to fit right, and you should some of the ways we have had to make 73-87 doors fit properly like a stack of 5 washers on the cab striker for gods sake. Im still confused on this debate as well, guess it depends who made the parts, because theres good then there's really really bad
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Old 12-16-2004, 10:05 AM   #39
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Sometimes body parts suppliers will let you know that you may have to do some work on these panels because they may arrive with some imperfections (dents, scratches et..) because they are shipped from overseas. They also state that you might have to do some work to get things to fit right. I would say avoid that if you can.
The only way that I can think to avoid that is to buy local. A parts dealer isn't going to sell you a damaged part personally, and it's too easy to get away with that in the mail.
I have yet to mail order body parts (patch panels) via mail but plan on it after Christmas because I could get free shipping and the product seems to be a little cheaper. You can bet that I will inquire as to who makes the product.
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Old 12-16-2004, 01:29 PM   #40
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Ugh. This is really helping alot. Even the the poll is 50/50!
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Old 12-16-2004, 01:44 PM   #41
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I guess it is kinda hit-and-miss, but every repro item I've bought fits perfect. So far I have (repro items) front fenders, rear fenders, front bed panel, tail gate, front and rear bumpers, tail lights and drivers side mirror. I don't have any complaints whatsoever on any of these parts. I must say though, you have to know what you're doing when it comes to proper fit and alignment of any part, repop or OEM. I started building hotrods more than 20 years ago and sometimes I still do some hammering to get things right. Patience....and a box of "body shims" will make your project look flawless.

Also....support your board venders!!!!
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Old 12-16-2004, 01:52 PM   #42
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The only repop item I had a real issue with was the taigate on my blazer.The PO put it on.Not sure what manufacture but it is thin.Can't put any wieght on it.The new ones that most of the board vendors sell are supposed to be heavier.The gate is about 6 years old.
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Old 12-16-2004, 05:16 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokekiki
The only repop item I had a real issue with was the taigate on my blazer.The PO put it on.Not sure what manufacture but it is thin.Can't put any wieght on it.The new ones that most of the board vendors sell are supposed to be heavier.The gate is about 6 years old.

Yeah, if i've heard anything consistently bad about repops it's that the repop tailgates can be really flimsy.
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