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01-01-2005, 03:02 PM | #26 | |
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Quote:
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I know what your thinking.......I have ESPN. Sometimes it's easier to do things the hard way. Fesler Built 1968 Chevy C10....Must resist the urge to mess with it!! |
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01-02-2005, 02:21 AM | #27 |
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Location: Oklahoma
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So some one give me a check list for what i would need!please? putting 73-87 rotors in a 72 setup.
Here is another one for yall! What about using the larger 1 1/4" rotors and calpers compaired to the 1"? worth it? I have a pair from a 73 van. |
01-02-2005, 09:02 AM | #28 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
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The thick 73-87 rotors are a direct swap onto 72 spindles, no mods needed.
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01-02-2005, 01:16 PM | #29 |
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To put 73+up spindles on a 72 front suspension do you need to change 1 or both ball joints(upper and lower) to the 73+ size??
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I know what your thinking.......I have ESPN. Sometimes it's easier to do things the hard way. Fesler Built 1968 Chevy C10....Must resist the urge to mess with it!! |
01-02-2005, 04:11 PM | #30 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
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Location: Azle, Texas
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Lower ball joint fits 71-87
Upper Ball joint for 71-72 is different than 73 and newer one. If you go to Moog's website, you can look all of this up and it gives the part numbers for you as well as the years that it fits.
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01-02-2005, 04:14 PM | #31 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
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Click HERE for the site I'm talking about.
Just enter year, truck, engines size and all of that. Then select steering and suspension. It will list all of the Moog part numbers for your trucks suspension parts. It shows what range of years those parts fit too. Using that, you can determine exactly what will interchange as far a ball joints, tie rod ends and such when swapping components from different years.
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01-02-2005, 09:42 PM | #32 |
Fabricate till you "puke"
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the outer tierod ends also need to be swapped, if you use a 73-up spindle, on the 71-72 trucks. crazyL
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69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears.... |
01-02-2005, 10:52 PM | #33 |
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Is the I.D. of the 71-72 upper ball joint hole the same as the 73-87 upper ball joint hole? I am also wanting to transplant the 73-87 spindles into my 72. i forgot to mention that in my last post. thats what i wanted my check list for. I want them for #1 price for drop spindles are way lower, #2 more common parts. I guess those are usual reasons!right?
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01-02-2005, 10:55 PM | #34 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
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Yes, the newer style upper ball joints bolt right in place
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01-02-2005, 11:01 PM | #35 |
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Nobody has really said if the heavier duty rotors are overkill or not? ! 1 1/4" vs. 1". What do you think tx firefighter?
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01-02-2005, 11:05 PM | #36 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
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Location: Azle, Texas
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My 77 Blazer has the thicker ones.
My 83 stepside had the thinner ones. Neither gave me any trouble at all. Personally, when starting from scratch, I'll use the thicker ones. More mass dissipates heat better without as much risk of warping or getting hot spots. Logic tells me to use the biggest brakes that I can.
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01-02-2005, 11:16 PM | #37 |
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"bigger brakes is better" That is the usual way! yes i know that more disc space disapates heat faster. Is the bigger calipers a problem in any way! tire clearance for instance. Is there a market for slotted or drilled 1 1/4 rotors?
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