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Old 01-26-2005, 03:08 PM   #26
fastbagged68
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The Spacers I had on my crossmember where dished on one side and flat on the other. about 1/4" think. I had them on both studs.
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Old 01-26-2005, 03:48 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastbagged68
You also need your borgenson joints to clear your upper arm, any time you go that low you are going to need to do it.
Where are the budweisers?
It looks like the problem is the ART upper arm width that's causing the real problem. With the stock uppers on there is a lot more clearance (though I don't know if it's enough).

And I've been on the phone with Borgeson this morning... working on a solution.
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Old 01-26-2005, 04:05 PM   #28
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Here is something to give you a baseline for your steering.... It's not the best but it could point you in the right direction... http://www.ifcustom.com/projects/projectpics/k-m/marissa's%20suburban/marrissasubdrop/subdrop36.jpg
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Old 01-26-2005, 05:03 PM   #29
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Is it true that you can use a "VAN" steering box? Like a early to late '70's model? Something about the box being taller, to help clear the upper arm. Seems like "fiveeightchevy" posted. Anyone?
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Old 01-26-2005, 05:27 PM   #30
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Bill Dermond (aka roadsurfer) said you can...but you need to fab a few things up to make it work. Need to also make sure it is the right box. ie. doesn't turn the oppsite you turn it. It raises you box up like 3 inchs. i think. And if you want to find Bill Dermond...goodluck!
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Old 01-26-2005, 05:27 PM   #31
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Bill Dermond (aka roadsurfer) said you can...but you need to fab a few things up to make it work. Need to also make sure it is the right box. ie. doesn't turn the oppsite you turn it. It raises you box up like 3 inchs. i think. And if you want to find Bill Dermond...goodluck! go to sportruck.com and look for it there. heposted about crossmember drop there over a year ago.
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Old 01-26-2005, 08:31 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastbagged68
Here is something to give you a baseline for your steering.... It's not the best but it could point you in the right direction... http://www.ifcustom.com/projects/projectpics/k-m/marissa's%20suburban/marrissasubdrop/subdrop36.jpg
Good pic. This is what I was thinking. I've been on the phone with Borgeson this afternoon. Ultimately it'll just be a matter of throwing time and money at the problem

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Old 01-27-2005, 03:11 AM   #33
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WOW, you are moving along! That piece looks really familiar...

Quote:
Originally Posted by XXL
BTW... capt kaos, we discussed potential tie rod clearance issues, but you felt it wouldn't be a problem. Oops
I expected grinding on the lip area, the clearance area I was refereing to that wouldn't be a problem was in between the framerails for the centerlink. Sorry for the confusion.... I appologize.

Quote:
Originally Posted by phantom dually
OUCH I remember asking those questions to Bill Turner when I was only going to do the member and not the Rack and pinion. He spoke of turning the parts backwards somehow?? Not sure if he was blowing $hit up my ARSE or what??
I am guessing he was talking about flipping the tie rod ends to point up and retapering the spindles to gain clearance at the framerails so they don't have to be notched as much, but... you aren't actually moving the centerlink down, so....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slammed67
Did '73+ trucks have such a spacer on them from the factory?? That's the only explanation I could come up with.
This is the way they go. Bevel pointed inside.


The 73-87's have a beveled washer that goes into that "slot", shims are placed between it and the frame.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lolife99
Is it true that you can use a "VAN" steering box? Like a early to late '70's model? Something about the box being taller, to help clear the upper arm. Seems like "fiveeightchevy" posted. Anyone?
I have heard that, but I haven't found "the box....

Quote:
Originally Posted by XXL
It looks like the problem is the ART upper arm width that's causing the real problem. With the stock uppers on there is a lot more clearance (though I don't know if it's enough).
No, It won't be enough...
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Old 01-27-2005, 11:41 PM   #34
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low?
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Old 01-27-2005, 11:44 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXL
Parts to do this kind of linkage are on the way. Borgeson ain't cheap
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Old 01-28-2005, 12:11 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXL
low?
SWEET!!!!!
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Old 01-28-2005, 12:58 AM   #37
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Took a little digging but here is Bill Dermonds (aka Roadsurfer) post from Sportruck on the van steering box mod. I've got pics of his stuff somewhere on my puter from when I had my burb site up and running (hopefully it'll get back up soon) I'll dig them up if somebody wants to see them...

Link to post
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Old 01-28-2005, 12:58 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXL
Parts to do this kind of linkage are on the way. Borgeson ain't cheap
Well, I tried to re-post the pic that had the u-joint linkage between the column & steering box but for some reason it won't let me open the attachments.

Are you doing the 3-universals + 2 intermediate shafts like the previous pic or what? I'm not sure how I feel about that set-up from a strictly visual aspect.

Am I alone in my observations?
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.

Last edited by SCOTI; 01-28-2005 at 01:03 AM.
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Old 01-28-2005, 01:06 AM   #39
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Lookin' good ....

It appears that I am gonna have to pack up and move West in order to get my "bucket of bolts" completed.

Good work fellas ... yer makin' me proud!

P.S. Kenneth ... please clean those wheels.

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Old 01-28-2005, 01:26 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shev
I've got pics of his stuff somewhere on my puter from when I had my burb site up and running (hopefully it'll get back up soon) I'll dig them up if somebody wants to see them...
I wondered what happened to your Burb site....

You know us, we like pics! I would like to see what ya got if it isn't a problem.
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Old 01-28-2005, 01:35 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTI
I'm not sure how I feel about that set-up from a strictly visual aspect.

Am I alone in my observations?
No, your not alone, BUT you need 3 to get it up over the upper control arm.

Here is another twist of the same. This is SmashingChucks truck:
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Old 01-28-2005, 01:43 AM   #42
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I've put effort into cleaning up the visuals under my hood. I want to camouflage whats there or make it smooth. That set-up doesn't look like it would work w/my theme.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 01-28-2005, 09:30 AM   #43
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I think if You paint the shaft to match the frame and or steering box,it won't stick out as much.I don't mind the look.
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Old 01-28-2005, 03:46 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane
P.S. Kenneth ... please clean those wheels.
It took a LOONNNNGGG time to get them to look that way in the first place. If I cleaned them, I'd have to start all over. It's all about the look


Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTI
SCOTI I've put effort into cleaning up the visuals under my hood. I want to camouflage whats there or make it smooth. That set-up doesn't look like it would work w/my theme.
Ditto, but I've got to do it... or plan my trips very carefully so as to avoid all turns. So... I'm contemplating a formed "shield" to fit over it once it's all in place. Stay tuned.

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Old 01-28-2005, 09:24 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXL
Ditto, but I've got to do it... or plan my trips very carefully so as to avoid all turns. So... I'm contemplating a formed "shield" to fit over it once it's all in place. Stay tuned.

We discussed options w/the inner fender. Possibly trying to use some of it to hide stuff but won't know until I put more stuff together.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 02-01-2005, 10:05 AM   #46
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Time to move the exhaust...
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Old 02-01-2005, 11:46 AM   #47
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Lookin' good. Got an ETA on the Borgensen joints yet?
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Old 02-01-2005, 12:09 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captkaos
Lookin' good. Got an ETA on the Borgensen joints yet?
They are "en route." I should have specified overnight shipping

On a side note, for a preview of a future rant... I spent some time on the phone this morning with Jason at Air Ride Technologies. For all of you who've seen me give ART props for their customer service for the last 5+ years, blehhhhh. Apparently they sold all their customer service and now they're relying on their devilishly low prices... or not. I've bought from them exclusively (save the bags I recently got from Captkaos), and paid their high prices, all because I bought into what was a very strong customer service experience. Today, in one single phone call, that has been wiped out. Congratulations to Jason at ART for your accomplishment.
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Old 02-01-2005, 02:04 PM   #49
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ART is over priced! They make nice stuff but not worth the money.... A little trick...instead of buying there upper arms- flip your over and flip the ball joints and flip sides.....This corrects ball joint angle. To get creative cut out the center and weld in what you want!
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Old 02-03-2005, 02:25 PM   #50
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Ok, I e-mailed XXL progress pics from last night but apparently he is actually busy working for a change today so I'll post them

I installed the Borgeson joints/Double-D shafts last night along with a bracket that I fabbed up. I still need to finish welding the bracket pieces together (there are just tacked now). The steering shaft now clears the upper a-arm, even when the front end is lowered all the way. I used 1/2" copper piping to mock up the double-D shafts before cutting the actual shafts to length to prevent waste/incorrect lengths.

All I have left to do is bleed the brakes and install the new front shocks (I'm waiting on some lower shock studs from ART).
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