Frame Cleanup - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

4x4Poet · 02-28-2005, 12:43 AM

I'd be concerned with sand getting in the greased axle and suspension components. An option is to have it blasted with high-volume plastic beads that won't harm rubber and are too large to get into everything. The dust is not tougher than metal in bearings. Disadvantage: won't remove rust that's not loose already. But what's left could be converted to zinc with zinc phosphate.

Russell · 02-28-2005, 01:20 AM

I plan to wirewheel the wide open parts of my frame, then blast the rest of it with my little sand blaster. It took me about 2 hours to strip the one frame rail on my GMC down to bare metal with the wirebrush (less nooks and crannies which would have been done with the sand blaster)

I then decided not to bother with it as I had no frame coating, and now it looks just like it did before, lol

Fred T · 02-28-2005, 08:40 AM

One thing you can do besides powder coating is POR-15. It does a good job of sealing the metal, and works real good on sandblasted steel. Color choice is limited, but they do have a semi-gloss black that's close to the original frame color. www.por15.com

**guyryan100** · 02-28-2005, 12:47 PM

I had the full rolling chassie blasted for $200. I would have spent that in brush wheels alone, and there's a lot you can't get to with a wheel. It's worth pulling the engine. I did no prior cleaning to remove grease or gunk, and the frame came back glistening in the sunlight.

busterwivell · 02-28-2005, 06:12 PM

I agree with the blaster theory. I also agree about the grease. You don't want to leave the engine and tranny on the frame for a couple of reasons. 1. You don't want media in them (and, trust me, it'll get in there) and 2, it would be real tough to turn over to get all of the frame. Besides, it wouldn't be a complete frame off (in my opinion) if you had left them attached. You're that close, do it right. I did one frame by myself.........never again!

4x4Poet · 03-01-2005, 05:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by busterwivell

I agree with the blaster theory....Besides, it wouldn't be a complete frame off (in my opinion) if you had left them attached. You're that close, do it right....

Then you'll have no concerns but what paint/coating to use. And if the motor mounts are original, they surely need replacement.

oj70chevy · 03-01-2005, 09:51 AM

Sorry to get off the Thread a little. But does' any one know of a reasonably priced sand blaster in the San Antonio TX. area?

70 longbed · 03-01-2005, 01:06 PM

I didn't do a frame off, but I did clean up the frame as best I could with pressure washer, degreaser and brushes. I am sorry that I did not go all the way and have it done. It really makes the final product nicer, even if you don't have it blasted, have it washed and paint it.

BigSky71 · 03-01-2005, 01:31 PM

Blast it! I went with a 10 gal pressurized blaster, frame probably took me 8 hours to do right, not counting setup and reloading sand. In that ten hours I probably refiled the blaster at least 20 times! Cost for the blaster and sand was about the same as the going rate for hiring it done around here, but now I own the blaster and have 60 gallons of sand to blast other parts of the truck, suspension parts etc. I found the blasting really fun, taking a rusty crappy part and making it clean again. Like others said, get the grease buildup areas clean before blasting. Note you do need good air supply to run even a small blaster, I worked the hell out of the 80gal 12hp 2 stage compressor at my shop while blasting.

02-28-2005, 12:43 AM	#26
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	I'd be concerned with sand getting in the greased axle and suspension components. An option is to have it blasted with high-volume plastic beads that won't harm rubber and are too large to get into everything. The dust is not tougher than metal in bearings. Disadvantage: won't remove rust that's not loose already. But what's left could be converted to zinc with zinc phosphate. __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup.

02-28-2005, 01:20 AM	#27
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	I plan to wirewheel the wide open parts of my frame, then blast the rest of it with my little sand blaster. It took me about 2 hours to strip the one frame rail on my GMC down to bare metal with the wirebrush (less nooks and crannies which would have been done with the sand blaster) I then decided not to bother with it as I had no frame coating, and now it looks just like it did before, lol __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

02-28-2005, 08:40 AM	#28
Fred T Cantankerous Geezer Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Bel Aire, KS Posts: 6,264	One thing you can do besides powder coating is POR-15. It does a good job of sealing the metal, and works real good on sandblasted steel. Color choice is limited, but they do have a semi-gloss black that's close to the original frame color. www.por15.com __________________ Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine.

02-28-2005, 06:12 PM	#30
busterwivell Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Sahuarita, AZ USA Posts: 2,033	I agree with the blaster theory. I also agree about the grease. You don't want to leave the engine and tranny on the frame for a couple of reasons. 1. You don't want media in them (and, trust me, it'll get in there) and 2, it would be real tough to turn over to get all of the frame. Besides, it wouldn't be a complete frame off (in my opinion) if you had left them attached. You're that close, do it right. I did one frame by myself.........never again! __________________ Bill - Tucson, AZ 47 Chevrolet 2 dr sedan 56 Chevrolet 210 2 dr sedan 66 Chevrolet Malibu 2 dr 4 speed 71 Chevrolet C30 Longhorn 86 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS (Sold) 01 Chevrolet Tahoe IM - BUSTERWIVE@aol.com

03-01-2005, 01:06 PM	#33
70 longbed Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Sierra Vista, AZ Posts: 490	I didn't do a frame off, but I did clean up the frame as best I could with pressure washer, degreaser and brushes. I am sorry that I did not go all the way and have it done. It really makes the final product nicer, even if you don't have it blasted, have it washed and paint it. __________________ Keith 70 CST longbed in progress. Hoping to get it back on the road soon.

02-28-2005, 12:47 PM	#29
guyryan100 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Cumming, GA Posts: 470	I had the full rolling chassie blasted for $200. I would have spent that in brush wheels alone, and there's a lot you can't get to with a wheel. It's worth pulling the engine. I did no prior cleaning to remove grease or gunk, and the frame came back glistening in the sunlight.

03-01-2005, 09:51 AM	#32
oj70chevy 250 V-6 Club Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: San antonio, TX. Posts: 898	Sorry to get off the Thread a little. But does' any one know of a reasonably priced sand blaster in the San Antonio TX. area?

03-01-2005, 01:31 PM	#34
BigSky71 LAIDOUT Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: NW Montana Posts: 928	Blast it! I went with a 10 gal pressurized blaster, frame probably took me 8 hours to do right, not counting setup and reloading sand. In that ten hours I probably refiled the blaster at least 20 times! Cost for the blaster and sand was about the same as the going rate for hiring it done around here, but now I own the blaster and have 60 gallons of sand to blast other parts of the truck, suspension parts etc. I found the blasting really fun, taking a rusty crappy part and making it clean again. Like others said, get the grease buildup areas clean before blasting. Note you do need good air supply to run even a small blaster, I worked the hell out of the 80gal 12hp 2 stage compressor at my shop while blasting. __________________ 67 2wd Shorty Build Pictures



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