Wanna know what is worse than rust? - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Robert1970C20rstbukt · 06-30-2005, 12:54 PM

If you think that's bad, you should've seen all the bondo in the ROOF of my truck. I'm serious, it was all the way around the driprails, it was sanded down so you couldn't see it, until it started cracking and leaking water. Now that it's loose you can lift up the top of the roof about an inch. I've got my new cab in for bodywork and painting so it won't be long now!

67ChevyRedneck · 06-30-2005, 01:36 PM

The crappy sketch I did is kinda how it should look. There should be a "pocket" in the cab corners, that from inside the truck you should be able to stick your hand in. Being from SC, my damn corners collect sand.... no matter how many times I clean them out. Your sketch in your previous post is basically correct. I hope I've helped. As a side note my dad bought a 69 that we both thought was a solid truck....until we started sanding and found out both rockers, cab corners, and fender bottoms were filled with "STUFF" and then a layer of bondo on top of that.....

The bottom pic shows the opening in the cab.... it does close off at the bottom with I believe one small square opening near the rocker for a drain area.

panhandler62 · 06-30-2005, 02:10 PM

That does help. Right now there is a drain hole you could pass a small dog through. lol

pat · 06-30-2005, 02:15 PM

I thought my truck was in great shape too, until I started tearing it apart. Newspaper in the stake pockets with bondo crammed into them, the same with the tailgate. A 1/4 inch plate of steel welded to the tailgate to make it smooth. About 2 gallons worth of bondo in the rockers and corners...about a dozen holes in the doors filled with bondo. Lots of that crap. Takes a while to fix it right, but Im almost done.

panhandler62 · 06-30-2005, 03:03 PM

There was a point last night when I just sat there and stared at it...

The truck really needs to be stripped back to the frame and done over. It is far from a basket case, but it is not without issues. Since I only have street parking right now (I'm a recent "divorce settlement" survivor) doing it right will have to wait. I just want to do the best I can with it under the limitation that I can't take the body off right now and stave off any more deteriation until I can get a garage and do 'er up right.

I'll feel better when I get both sides prepped and ready for the new metal. The "discovering the rust" phase always sucks.

deth_1970 · 07-01-2005, 04:04 AM

damn, i think, the PO's of my truck went to the okie school of performance, I havent started pulling all the bondo and botched repairs out yet, but so far i have found out beer cans do work on the exhaust system, bailing wire does hold up well as a muffler hanger, and anything can be hid with enough bondo, and primer, oh and if you lose the plug to the rear end you can weld it closed, just kindve hard to refill with gear lube,

what were they thinking

deth_1970 · 07-01-2005, 04:06 AM

lol, nothing against okies, just i have seen some creative things done since i have been out here

nitor · 07-01-2005, 06:30 AM

vt, your floor looked pretty much like what mine looked like. When I bought the truck, the guy said "no real body work would be needed except one quarter sized hole on the drivers side floor". Now after replacing the drivers kick panel, drivers floor board, all four cab mounts, both rockers and the cab corners, I would suppose I got that quarter sized hole in the floor he was referring to.

jamis · 07-01-2005, 10:55 AM

the patch panels look like this.

you will need
1. lower B-piller
2. inner rocker
3. outer rocker
4. cab corner

panhandler62 · 07-01-2005, 03:42 PM

Ug... I hate to admit it.. but I am seriously considering a patch job for now.

Fix the floor and use glass to patch the inner rockers and cab corners. I don't have a garage right now and I don't see how I can do this job with the bed attached. The latteral supports that run down to the inner rockers are gone also, so a real fix isn't going to go well with the truck curbside.

I have the outer rockers, the previous hack job included a piar of these.

They are held on by screws right now. :P I could get the inner rockers and do that part easily enough and the lower b-lipar should be straightforward, but replacing the cab supports and corners seems like a job that isn't really feasible with the truck parked on the street.

c10chevy69 · 07-01-2005, 06:29 PM

I thought mine was kind of bad but you win. I have some fiberglass rocker repairs on mine. I noticed it the first time I climbed underneath with the door open. Hey Deth 1970 where are you from? I moved out here from northern California 6 years ago.

panhandler62 · 07-02-2005, 12:04 AM

Oh.. btw.. Thanks for the pictures Jamis.. I saved them for later.
Eventualy I'll be able to strip this thing back to the frame and do it right.

06-30-2005, 12:54 PM	#26
Robert1970C20rstbukt Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Beeville, Texas Posts: 1,943	If you think that's bad, you should've seen all the bondo in the ROOF of my truck. I'm serious, it was all the way around the driprails, it was sanded down so you couldn't see it, until it started cracking and leaking water. Now that it's loose you can lift up the top of the roof about an inch. I've got my new cab in for bodywork and painting so it won't be long now! __________________ RJD 1984 Chevrolet C30 welding truck 454/SM465 1977 GMC C15 pickup 350/TH350 1970 Chevrolet C20 pickup 350/TH400 1970 Chevrolet K20 Suburban 454/TH350 1969 GMC 8500 478M V6/5 spd winch truck

06-30-2005, 01:36 PM	#27
67ChevyRedneck Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 23,090	The crappy sketch I did is kinda how it should look. There should be a "pocket" in the cab corners, that from inside the truck you should be able to stick your hand in. Being from SC, my damn corners collect sand.... no matter how many times I clean them out. Your sketch in your previous post is basically correct. I hope I've helped. As a side note my dad bought a 69 that we both thought was a solid truck....until we started sanding and found out both rockers, cab corners, and fender bottoms were filled with "STUFF" and then a layer of bondo on top of that..... The bottom pic shows the opening in the cab.... it does close off at the bottom with I believe one small square opening near the rocker for a drain area. Attached Images __________________ Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride American Born, Country by the Grace of God 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications! Last edited by 67ChevyRedneck; 06-30-2005 at 01:41 PM.

06-30-2005, 02:15 PM	#29
pat Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Lindsay, TX Posts: 1,245	I thought my truck was in great shape too, until I started tearing it apart. Newspaper in the stake pockets with bondo crammed into them, the same with the tailgate. A 1/4 inch plate of steel welded to the tailgate to make it smooth. About 2 gallons worth of bondo in the rockers and corners...about a dozen holes in the doors filled with bondo. Lots of that crap. Takes a while to fix it right, but Im almost done. __________________ 68 Chevy 383/350 w/shift kit, 380hp/425ft-lbs, 4.5/5 drop, 17" TT2s 64 Cadillac Sedan DeVille

07-01-2005, 04:04 AM	#31
deth_1970 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Braggs, okla Posts: 161	damn, i think, the PO's of my truck went to the okie school of performance, I havent started pulling all the bondo and botched repairs out yet, but so far i have found out beer cans do work on the exhaust system, bailing wire does hold up well as a muffler hanger, and anything can be hid with enough bondo, and primer, oh and if you lose the plug to the rear end you can weld it closed, just kindve hard to refill with gear lube, what were they thinking __________________ 78 dualy crew cab wife calls "the beast" 79 silverado "yeller" 99 tahoe 02 Gmc sierra

07-01-2005, 04:06 AM	#32
deth_1970 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Braggs, okla Posts: 161	lol, nothing against okies, just i have seen some creative things done since i have been out here __________________ 78 dualy crew cab wife calls "the beast" 79 silverado "yeller" 99 tahoe 02 Gmc sierra

06-30-2005, 02:10 PM	#28
panhandler62 Java Mechanic Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Martinsburg, WV Posts: 6,763	That does help. Right now there is a drain hole you could pass a small dog through. lol

06-30-2005, 03:03 PM	#30
panhandler62 Java Mechanic Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Martinsburg, WV Posts: 6,763	There was a point last night when I just sat there and stared at it... The truck really needs to be stripped back to the frame and done over. It is far from a basket case, but it is not without issues. Since I only have street parking right now (I'm a recent "divorce settlement" survivor) doing it right will have to wait. I just want to do the best I can with it under the limitation that I can't take the body off right now and stave off any more deteriation until I can get a garage and do 'er up right. I'll feel better when I get both sides prepped and ready for the new metal. The "discovering the rust" phase always sucks.

07-01-2005, 06:30 AM	#33
nitor Too many projects Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Morrow, OH Posts: 344	vt, your floor looked pretty much like what mine looked like. When I bought the truck, the guy said "no real body work would be needed except one quarter sized hole on the drivers side floor". Now after replacing the drivers kick panel, drivers floor board, all four cab mounts, both rockers and the cab corners, I would suppose I got that quarter sized hole in the floor he was referring to. __________________ Jim '55 Chevrolet Pickup '56 Chevrolet Belair '04 Chevrolet Astro '95 Chevrolet Blazer

07-01-2005, 10:55 AM	#34
jamis F.A.S.T. president Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Florida Posts: 1,883	the patch panels look like this. you will need 1. lower B-piller 2. inner rocker 3. outer rocker 4. cab corner __________________ F.A.S.T. President and Founder Fabricators for the Advancement of Sawsall Technology "A fear of the Sawsall is a sign of retarded sexual and emotional maturity." ~Sigmund Freud, "General Introduction to Psychoanalysis" Last edited by jamis; 10-05-2007 at 07:12 AM.

07-01-2005, 03:42 PM	#35
panhandler62 Java Mechanic Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Martinsburg, WV Posts: 6,763	Ug... I hate to admit it.. but I am seriously considering a patch job for now. Fix the floor and use glass to patch the inner rockers and cab corners. I don't have a garage right now and I don't see how I can do this job with the bed attached. The latteral supports that run down to the inner rockers are gone also, so a real fix isn't going to go well with the truck curbside. I have the outer rockers, the previous hack job included a piar of these. They are held on by screws right now. :P I could get the inner rockers and do that part easily enough and the lower b-lipar should be straightforward, but replacing the cab supports and corners seems like a job that isn't really feasible with the truck parked on the street. Last edited by panhandler62; 07-01-2005 at 03:49 PM.

07-01-2005, 06:29 PM	#36
c10chevy69 Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 205	I thought mine was kind of bad but you win. I have some fiberglass rocker repairs on mine. I noticed it the first time I climbed underneath with the door open. Hey Deth 1970 where are you from? I moved out here from northern California 6 years ago. __________________ 1969 chevy C10 long bed 350 4bbl auto p/disc and 5 lug

07-02-2005, 12:04 AM	#37
panhandler62 Java Mechanic Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Martinsburg, WV Posts: 6,763	Oh.. btw.. Thanks for the pictures Jamis.. I saved them for later. Eventualy I'll be able to strip this thing back to the frame and do it right.



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