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#26 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 1,317
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This is one of my favorite controversies-----2vs 4 bolt--just a quick true story from some time ago.A friend known as Mr big block around here built a 481 in. BB 2 bolt 12.5 compression ect ect and put it in a 69 camaro,I wont tell you the shift rpms as most wont believe me-but it was over 7000 He ran this car street and strip for 5 years with NO problems---
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#27 | |
Weekend Warrior
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: CT
Posts: 1,787
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Quote:
No worries mate. ![]()
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-'07 GMC Sierra K2500HD -'66 C10 Suburban -'68/'71 K20 Service Bed Project -'69 Chevy C30 Mason Dump -'33Ford P/U 396ChevyPowered ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#28 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: tampa florida
Posts: 776
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I ran a two bolt block in my vette for years. Strip and street racing, 440 hp. Never a problem.
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#29 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Redding,CA...USA
Posts: 4,736
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Detonation is what kills....It will kill a 2 bolt or 4 bolt cap. although the 4 bolt may live a little longer. I've seen blocks/caps that ehen pulled apart look as if they were welded. The caps move and actually transfer metal from the cap to the block and vis versa.
Which ever block you use, use a quality fastner and make sure the caps fit good in the register. align hone/bore the caps and balance the assembly.
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It's called "drag racing" if they called it "tic..tic..WHAM!..BANG! F*&K!!!", they'd have to keep the magazines under the counter with the other men's publications click the clicky to join the site.... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/payments.php 67 lwb..first hotrod in 25 years..540 best ET is 9.45 @ 141.44 Anderson,CA |
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#30 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Maine
Posts: 427
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IMO, the 2 vs. 4 bolt is the same idea as buying tools. If you can buy the socket set you want for 60 bucks, 1/4 3/8 and 1/2 in with ratchets and extensions, but you can buy the hole kit with wrenches and screwdrivers and so on for 85, you fork over more money for the better item. Thats just my way of thinking, it may not be right though. For the little amount more of money, id get a 4-bolt.
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#31 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: quebec canada
Posts: 135
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This is a good topic!!! Now from expierence I have ran both blocks never had 1 better than the other!! I have spun alot of bearings in both!I just blew a set of bearings in my 4 bolt block with no more damage than my 2 bolts that I have blown.1 block is no better than the next for ANY TYPE OF STREET USE WE WILL EVER SEE THAT IS LEGAL FOR STREET.Therefore YES they are the same price for a new core if you want 1 buy it.
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gm's are #1 1967 chevrolet short step 1988 chev 4x4 1/2 ton 1989 gmc 1/2 ton 1991 chev 1/2 ton 4x4 1993 Jeep grand cherokee 4x4 And yes a 94 Ford Mustang. ![]() ![]() |
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#32 |
71400lb
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Charlotte NC
Posts: 74
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Uh oh!
My truck has a 400 SBC 4 bolt main(original motor was a 350)...it's basically stock, 4 barrel Quadrajet, it has a towing cam(Comp Cam)and dual exhaust...it's been rebuilt(bored .30 over) and the previous owner(guy who rebuilt the engine)said it's putting out about 325 horsepower. He also told me the engine came out of a 72 Nova, but I can't find any records where a 400 SBC came in any 72 Nova's! Why would they put a 400 SBC 4 bolt main in a Nova anyway? It has run perfectly in the year I've owned the truck, but should I be worried about this engine? Thanks, 71400LB 1971 Cheyenne 3/4 Ton 2wd 400 SBC/400 Turbo/3.73 Eaton/Open |
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#33 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
![]() Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
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You fellows sure are getting worked up over this.
Let me tell you a little Tx Firefighter secret here....your local GM dealer is your best source of 4 bolt 350 blocks. See, those Goodwrench 350 engines are 4 bolt. If I look in the core pile and see a greasy engine with 350 Goodwrench stickers on the valve covers, I buy it. They charge 100 bucks for any small block core engine. I get two or three a year that way. Never got a bad core yet either, just wore out.
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I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin |
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#34 |
my gas saver
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Clarksville, TN
Posts: 2,046
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i've ran 2 and 4 bolts and have had no difference in the 2 whatsoever. whenever i have a 2 bolt done, i make sure that they stud the bottom end and i've never had trouble with one.
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85' SWB, 4.3/TH350, getting ready for paint 84`SWB, 462ci./TH400, cowl hood, 15" billet spec., flows, blazer buckets/console, flat black 71`SWB, project ebay feedback |
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#35 |
Senior Member
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Location: CA
Posts: 6,240
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What does it mean to stud the bottom end? Just curious.
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#36 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,276
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Ark and Mudder, I am doing the same as you with a 383 build.
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#37 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,276
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Studs and nuts for fasteners and not bolts
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#38 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Redding,CA...USA
Posts: 4,736
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Quote:
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It's called "drag racing" if they called it "tic..tic..WHAM!..BANG! F*&K!!!", they'd have to keep the magazines under the counter with the other men's publications click the clicky to join the site.... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/payments.php 67 lwb..first hotrod in 25 years..540 best ET is 9.45 @ 141.44 Anderson,CA |
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#39 |
Senior Member
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 6,240
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Thanks wolfthing2000. That makes sense. I guess the studs can be run all the way into the hole to maximize thread engagement.
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#40 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,276
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PJ, you are exactly right but do not overtorque the studs to the bottom because that could cause a crack. I believe they locktite the studs in and don't realy worry about torque on this end, just securing the stud.. The other end/ fastener end is fine thread, takes more torque and because the threads are spread out it holds better. ( I do not want to get into the exact science of this, just that fine thread torques better).. All in all if set up with good alloy hardware and not re-using old rod bolts etc. the 2-bolt set up is great.. Some have said that the outer bolts on the 4-bolt caps will work loose and then you are with a 2-bolt that has been weakened by not having the close proximity of cap retention, like a 2-bolt, adjacent to the 2 inward bolts. I think this is why the 400s of early 4-bolt caps were dropped and they went 2-bolt.
The true hardcore strength set up is 4-bolt splayed caps , where the bolts retain at an angle to the adjacent cap mounting surface pulling the outer edges of caps against there marting register and not being aligned with the downward force on the crankshaft. BUT this is for hard core motors remember and not for street engines. How much horsepower and bottom end grunt do you need anyway?? Once the 400 HP 383 truck hooks up off the green light the vehicle beside you is now in your rear view mirror anyway!!! If he is ahead, let him win........he deserves it!!!,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,meanwhile just drive your truck and enjoy it.............we're not building dragsters for crying out loud!! ![]() |
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#41 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,276
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I do guess I deserve you an apology:::::::::::::::::::::::::: some of you might be building dragsters!!!!
Sorry guys! ![]() |
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#42 |
Still drivin' a Rat Rod
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Monett Missouri
Posts: 4,925
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2 Bolt mains are fine IMO,what they need is 4 bolt rods
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Rusty Member #13872 Instead of saying.....you are a discomfort in the back of my front.....one should be able to say...... you are a pain in the *a$#* 71 GMC LWB 49 Chevy 85 Chevy G20 Check out my website |
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#43 |
~Rest In Peace~
Join Date: May 2005
Location: CALIFORNIA NOR CAL
Posts: 9,707
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im going to go with a 6 bolt engine on my next project motor
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is it fast ? it has a lighting bolt donut? B___H please, I can remove 90% of your so called "beauty" with a kleenex |
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