A little progress today

[nu2-72]

Chrome8, yes and no. First, remember that this is a coating. Although it bonds to the metal and becomes part of it, it also coats the surface. That means that any exterior surface will be coated and usually present no problem. However, inside there are bearing tolerances and seal lips and so on. This would make installing those items difficult and change the set up. What you could do is make end caps with an allthread rod from axle opening to opening and another pair from the pinion opening to the cover opening. You would need these sealed tight and one of them would need a vent. See Long Roof's reply. You could drill and tap a hole for a pipe nipple and use black pipe to make a snorkel to stay above the zinc. But a word of warning here. Those caps will become soldered to the housing and the threads will fill as well. You could cut the threads off and punch the rods out but getting the plates off might be a trick. Also the ball joint holes would fill some. They would need to be reamed back to the correct taper and tolerance and the top one is threaded.
So could it be done? Yes. Would I do it or would it be easy? No.

[krue]

I've never seen galvanized that didn't have that splotchy, well "galvanized" look for wont of a better word. You know what I mean that grey camouflage looking pattern to it.

[Chrome8]

Thanks for the insight man, I'm seriously considering this for my project, what do you use for paint on the differentials? One product better than another? I can't wait to see the pics of the frame.

[nu2-72]

grey camouflage it is.
Folks, it's a frame, not a paint job. I want the most corrosion protection that I can get without constant touching up paint and dipping gets me 100% coverage.
And as I stated earlier, it provides an excellent base for someone that would decide to paint. You should not have rust creeping out from under every little rivet and bracket.
It's my truck and I want to experiment and protect it. Who cares what it looks like. I plan to drive it.

[krue]

I wasn't knocking it, I just couldn't tell from the pic of the jeep frame if they had come up with a different look. Heck it sounds like a jam up idea to me. I like powder coat, but galvanized is actually "self-healing". If you scratch the coating off of it, it will "scab" over and protect the metal regardless.

[nu2-72]

No offense taken. I just wanted to try something different. And it will oxidize. But as I said, my buddies Jeep looks good. And it has been done for about 18 months?
And, how many has anyone seen? I'll be the test subject and let everyone know.
I wonder if a wax job would seal it and keep it shiny?

[krue]

Oxidize is ok, rust sucks. You might be able to clear it?

[musclecarfreak]

The Chevelle guys and the LandCruiser guys have been doing galvanizing to their frames for a while and having excellent luck with it. With proper prep, it can be topcoated and you will never know it was galvanized. The Chevelle guys are doing this to show cars with super results. And cost effective!!!!

[krue]

Now I gotta find someone around here that does this.

[nu2-72]

Parts are done. Just need to get there by Friday and pick them up.

[Edmond]

Can't wait to see the pictures of the frame now it's done.

Started the new job yet?

Happy New Year to you all!!

Cya,
Edmond

[Lippyp]

Galvanised steel will always weather down to a dull grey over time, just like a metal pipe. In fact it's better to let it weather before you paint it as paint doesn't stick too well to fresh galv. Not tried using etch primer, I'm sure that would help though.

[hoser]

7500 years? Yeah probably if it sat in trailer queen garage for the 7500 years, I bet you will never have to worry about rust any time soon, my guess is it will look like all the galv boat trailers I have seen over the years, the ones used all the time in salt water hold up real good I had one that was 25 years old and only a few small places where it was rusted.

If the guy gives special attention to your frame it should look pretty good but if you think your going to get some sort of show quality finish you wont, it will look like anything else that has been HOT dipped, guard rails, chain link fence etc. its a protective coating, undercoating would probably look better over the top because it would not draw attention to people like the bright finish of the galv coating.

[wibilly]

all that done for $100 do you know sombody or is that the going rate? a guy could not buy primer and paint for that.way to go

[gregfull]

Can't wait to see the pics, should look really good. Got me thinking now...we have parts at our machine shop electroless nickel plated, it has sort of a silver/bronze color to it. What would a frame look like that was electroless nickel plated????

[nu2-72]

hoser, I don't expect show car appearance. I expect a frame with 100% coverage.
And I do not care what others think. Not to be rude but I am building a truck for me and not others.
I have a great deal of experience with paint and finishes and know galvanized. What happens, happens.
gregfull, that would be cool too. Any liquid should give better coverage than a powder or paint. The difference to me is that plating is a surface coating (like chrome) and galvanizing is not. I have seen many bumpers flake the chrome but never seen a galvanized item flake. The difference is the temperature. HOT dipped takes the base metal to a temperature that opens the pores and makes a change in the base metal. It penetrates and becomes part of the base metal.
Going to pick it up tomorrow.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

NU2 cannot wait to see it should look pretty killer..

[nu2-72]

here is the bare frame. I will be adding the crossmembers and brackets this coming week.

[OJOE]

now thats a good looking frame. should be good for years to come

[Edmond]

That looks great Kevin.
I was wondering, since this puts on a coating on the metal,
all the holes will be slightly smaller in diameter now.
This means you will have to drill the holes again?
Let's say for the bumper brackets the bolt will probably not fit anymore.
If you have to drill the hole again, that part will not be galvanized anymore,
and therefor it can rust again. What is the best way to solve this?
Or am I talking rubbish and the holes are still the same diameter?

Cya,
Edmond


HAPPY NEW YEAR!!

[Lippyp]

You generally will need to run a tap through any threaded holes to clean the thread up, it is however only a pretty thin coating so bolt holes etc generally have enough tolerance to take it unless you get a dribble. If you do have to file/drill you can get a cold galvanising spray that should stop the new edges rusting.

[nu2-72]

Correct, most holes are oversized anyway and bolts will fit. I will run a reamer through the shackle holes where the bushings fit so that they are smooth and a die over the shock mounting stud threads and that is about it. There are a few drips that a flapper wheel will smooth up and it is ready to begin the re-assemble.
Again, the zinc will penetrate into the pores of the base metal so it is more than a surface coating. It is now as if the frame were made of a steel and zinc mix at the factory.
It was mentioned before here that galvanizing is self healing to a degree so scratches are not expected to be a problem. I will also use anti-sieze around bolts and in holes as it is a metallic based lube and preservative also.
I will keep updates on this.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

When can we see some good photos in the light?? I am sure it looks good but better pics would be great..

[hoser]

Nice...

[nu2-72]

I placed the engine crossmember in place today.
There are several little icicles on some of the parts so I will buff them off before final fitting. And bolts are dropping in just fine so far. I am using all stainless bolts for the members and brackets.
It is overcast here so there will be no good sunny pics for awhile.