400 Hp

[PanelDeland]

I would say the cheapest way to (reliable)400 HP is to determine which parts you have will be useable(i,e, Block,heads crank ect).Find out exactly what you have then call Summit,Edelbrock and whoever else and get their input.There are a lot of knowledgeable folks on this BB but their opinions differ (Thank GOD or it would be boring in here).The manufacturers should be able to help you pick a COMBINATION which is going to be the key to making the kind of power you want.The engine companies are going to want to know tranny,rear gear ratio,intended use,and what parts you have that you must use.
BTW,since parts are cheaper you could probably make the same HP for less with a smallblock.

[Billla]

Originally Posted by cduster

Hey Billla, that wasnt directed at you, or anyone in particular. Those numbers came from post #7, and I just thought I would use them. Dan

No worries, my friend - I just wanted to make sure I wasn't setting expectations with the guy that asked what appeared to be an innocent question and now lies in the trenches with 16" shells flying overhead

It's a good discussion!

[z7199]

So from everything I read it sounds like 400-500 HP is veruy doable but will cost $$$$$$ I was plannning on spending about $2000 - $3000 on the project that will be a little bit bigger bore Forged pistons and cam and Stock heads reworked. Do you guys think I will make it for that price?

[Billla]

Originally Posted by z7199

So from everything I read it sounds like 400-500 HP is veruy doable but will cost $$$$$$ I was plannning on spending about $2000 - $3000 on the project that will be a little bit bigger bore Forged pistons and cam and Stock heads reworked. Do you guys think I will make it for that price?

Something over 400 HP *at the flywheel* (something over 320 at the rear wheels) is doable IMHO. Forged pistons are a waste of money at this power level IMHO, as is an overbore. To ensure you get the engine back together for < 3K you're going to need to be *very careful* about how you spend your money. You never gave any feedback about intended use, but my "list" would be below. There are a couple of corners that get cut, but all on things you can redo later (distributor, etc.). My standard advice that's served me pretty well is that a practical complete engine in the car, running and tuned is better than an uber-engine on the stand.

I'm sure I missed a couple of things, but there are some really smart guys here that will correct/update

Shortblock
- Clean block, overbore as req'd, hone for pistons/rings
- Light align bore as req'd
- Hypereutectic pistons for 9.5:1 + ring package
- Cloyes timing chain appropriate for align bore
- Cam package (cam, lifters, springs, etc.)
- Crank machining A/R
- Main, cam, rod bearings as appropriate (I'm a Clevite guy, myself)
- Resize stock rods, 7/16 bolts
- ARP main/studs
- Melling oil pump and pickup
- Refurbish and reuse sheet metal (pan, cover, etc.)

Heads
- clean, port match, light port
- Sink larger valves (2.02/1.88) as possible
- springs, etc. from cam kit
- Inspect and reuse stock rockers and pushrods if possible.
- Stock covers

Induction
- Idle - 5500 dual-plane
- Carb as preferred; stock Q-jet overhauled if equipped, otherwise let the debate begin

Ignition
- O'H stock distributor A/R; electronic conversion/MSD box if $$$ allows

Other
- Gasket set
- Odd's & ends (oil, trans fluid, etc.)
- Depending on who assembles, O/H tools (ring compressor, etc.)

[z7199]

Well the motor is mainly for fun nothing specail just a little bvit of power and will on ocasion pull a trailer. I talked to a guy today and he sadi to do the 400 - 500 HP range I am going to need heads?

[Billla]

Originally Posted by PanelDeland

BTW,since parts are cheaper you could probably make the same HP for less with a smallblock.

Ummmm....remember that debates are good comment? :-D

I disagree a bit; yes, some of the parts are cheaper 1:1, but in my experience overall prices start going up pretty darn quick as you go past 1 hp/CI.

[Billla]

For the use you're talking about and the budget you have, you can't get there if you buy heads IMHO. A set of new, assembled Dart heads is around $1200...around 1/2 of your overall budget. And no, you can't build them for less out of some other used heads.

Again, if you're not careful you'll end up with a mismatched set of parts that won't deliver what you want...or worse, you'll run out of money and end up with an engine on the stand instead of in your truck.

It sounds like this is your first build - find a good machine shop locally (folks on this board can tell you who, I'm sure), tell them what you have to spend and always, always, always keep the $$$ top of mind. The temptation to buy some $pendy stuff because of the "free" horsepower, etc. will kill you in the end.

Fundamentally, there are two kinds of rebuilds - an overhaul, where the focus is on getting the engine back in the vehicle and a build, where money is no object and you have a specific target/use in mind. A little more power and the occasional trailer tow is an overhaul scenario not a build scenario...and as long as you don't confuse the two you'll be fine

IMHO, again

[z7199]

Yes this is my first rebuild or trailer build. I think I know just enough to be dangerous!! So your saying I can get 400 Flywheel without heads? But my main concern is MONEY I really only have MAX 3,500 dollars to throw into this project, and like you said I dont want to have a bunch of missed matched parts that are awesome but dont work well with the other stuff.

[cduster]

The machine/motor rebuilders around here say between $900-$1200 per 100 HP (machine work + parts and labor) is a fair ballpark estimate, with them doing the assembly. (read that as no warrenty if assembeled yourself.) Find a good guy with some BB expirience that does it for a living and he should know what parts package you will need to attain your desired HP.

I just finished putting a 454 .030 over that is supposed to be around 550 rwhp and had almost $5000 in machine work and parts. I got the parts from the motor shop guy, but I checked with Jegs on prices and he was real close so I don't think he made much on parts. I got the parts from him because it was easy, and so if I had any questions I could get answers from him. Saved some cash putting it together myself, plus it was fun. He was not the cheapest machine shop around, but he was one of the best judging from the references I got. I went with a SRP pistons, Crane cam, roller/hyd lifters, pushrods, and 1.7:1 roller rockers. A lot of work went into the heads.

About the only things I would add to Billla's list is a good balance job. For the money, I think it is an important step to extending the life of your engine.Another thing is the oil pump drive shaft, and dist gear. It is a good idea to put a new gear on the dist if you are putting a new cam shaft so they wear together properly. Also one of the parts I was lacking was the cam button.

Good luck whatever you decide on.

Dan