Subwoofer under passenger seat?

[makovai]

Originally Posted by LUV2XCLR8

And any thing over a 10" is overkill, I ran 2 10's in my USAC / IASCA
firebird and it would do plenty, I was running 4 8's but got greeding
for the lo lo's, so I took out my 8's and put in the 10's ported

I run 1 8" JL Dual voice coil in my setup and it is pretty impressive. Peeps ask me all the time "wheres the rest of the kickers".

I'm gonna watch this thread close because it's almost time to go topless and i need to hide my kicker as well.

[Green Monster]

I remember the horns were starting to make an emergence back around '96. I have two 4" Orion coaxial in the center speaker location. They are okay, but the horns are definatly the way to go for stealth. There should be plenty of space under the dash for the horns. I never heard them, but I would imagine they have way better sound than the 4" coaxials when combined with a well driven 10" sub.

I could then get away with just some 4" mids under the rear seat facing forward sine I only need 25% coming from the rear. They're just filler. Sweet.

I see what you are saying about the down facing sub making my Blazer a rattle trap. Hmmm. I really don't want to have it exposed though. Seems I would have to put it behind the rear seat to make it face the rear. I have a 10" sub in my Mustang and it faces the rear. Sounds great. I wonder if having the sub in the back of a car is just for conveience or does it sound better. Think about it. Most new cars do not have the room for a sub up front. So they go in the rear where space exists. Our Blazers have plenty of room under the front passenger seat, so why not just put it there? Home audio subs can be up front by the TV. Sounds good to me. Besides, having the sub under front passenger seat might make my wife happy. :happy:

[RunTMCfan]

I can go on forever about car audio. Just make sure that if you do put Horns in the front that you some how have mids up there too. Really good horns only go down to about 750hz. You still will need something that is balanced with the horns to cover 80hz-750hz. Otherwize you will have a huge gap in your mid range. That is 80-750hz is an extremely important range. Actually they are all important.

[LUV2XCLR8]

Originally Posted by RunTMCfan

I can go on forever about car audio.

Same here, I could talk about it for hours

[Green Monster]

Originally Posted by RunTMCfan

You still will need something that is balanced with the horns to cover 80hz-750hz. Otherwize you will have a huge gap in your mid range. That is 80-750hz is an extremely important range. Actually they are all important.

Are the pair or 4" Clarion coaxials in the dash good enough for mids? I know they're not the best. However, they are rated for 80W each. Perhaps one 5x7 would be better for producing the mid range I want. It will not be balanced. It's not balanced right now with two in the center anyway. I suppose enough room may exist under the dash for a 5 1/4" encloser. Again, stealth is what I want.

I suppose I could take the truck to several of the local stereo shops and see what ideas they dream up.

[Green Monster]

This might work pretty well for a Blazer...


$399.99

Infinity created the BassLink II car subwoofer for people who crave high-performance bass but don't have a lot of space. But what if you want to punch up the mids and highs in your system as well? This package expands the BassLink II's capabilities by adding the Basslink 4sc 4-channel amplifier module.

The BassLink II combines a 10" square subwoofer, a 10" square non-powered cone, and a 250-watt amplifier, for loud, clear bass in a fraction of the space taken up by conventional sub boxes. Now you can add a 4-channel amplifier to your powered subwoofer by sliding the included amp module into the BassLink's expansion slot. Once it's installed, your expanded BassLink II sends 50 watts to each of your vehicle's front and rear speakers, in addition to the 250 watts already powering its internal sub.

As an added bonus, the BassLink 4sc features a built-in phantom center channel that sharpens and improves the stereo image of your movies and music without adding an extra speaker. An included wired remote control lets you adjust the phantom center channel settings from the driver's seat.

An array of controls lets you tweak your sound so the subwoofer sounds its best, while the proper frequencies are assigned to your front and rear speakers. You'll enjoy full-range sound that's strong and balanced. A phase control ensures that the sub works with the speakers in your car, not against them. Raise or lower the bass impact with the bass boost feature, and control the level with the wired remote.

Mounting brackets allow you to install the BassLink II vertically or horizontally, so you'll be able to fit this compact enclosure almost anywhere. And you can connect this system to any car system, even a factory radio.
Details:
» package includes Infinity BassLink II powered subwoofer and the Infinity BassLink 4sc 4-channel amplifier expansion module

BassLink II
» compact powered subwoofer
» 10" square woofer and passive radiator
» Class D 250-watt RMS amplifier
» wired volume control with 16-1/4' cable
» variable low-pass crossover (50-120 Hz at 12 dB per octave)
» bass boost (-6 dB to +3 dB at 40 Hz)
» phase control (0-180 degrees)
» preamp- and speaker-level inputs
» vertical mounting dimensions (with mounting feet): 15"W x 15"H x 10-1/4"D; horizontal mounting dimensions (with mounting feet): 15"W x 9-3/4"H x 15-1/8"D
» power and signal harnesses included
» warranty: 1 year
» Want more peace of mind? Extended Service Plans Available

BassLink 4sc
» 4-channel amplifier expansion board for BassLink II
» 50 watts RMS x 4
» phantom center channel with wired remote control
» warranty: 1 year
» Want more peace of mind? Extended Service Plans Available

The image and product description were taken from www.crutchfield.com. August 14, 2006.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-OcwnOmf...0&I=700BASS4CH

[RunTMCfan]

Ahhh, I love old threads coming back to life. Especially if they are a Car Audio thread.

Ya know, if it meets your needs I say go for it. Generally a self powered sub IMO is going to be a little underpowered. Self powered Car Audio subs are not nearly as common as home. In home audio probably 75% of the subs are powered and powered well.

That "non powered" 10" cone is a passive radiator. It takes the job of what a port would do. It plays the rear wave of the powered 10" woofer.

Previousely I was under the impression you wanted to hide or conceal your installed sub. This may look a bit high tech and out of place in a self described purists Blazer. You can put a 10" woofer by yourself in 1cuft box, buy a rockin amp all for well under $400. The sub in that woofer retails for about $100 or less. A good amp these days is only $150, at that's for a sweet amp. So the trade off is $400 and ready to go with a bit of a high tech look, or $300 build it yourself and you can make it look stock.

What ever makes you happy is what matters the most. I've never been apposed to self powered subs, the old bazooka tubes in the right application were pretty good.

[Green Monster]

Yeah... you're right. The size of this self powered sub is just a tad too big to conceal under my seat. However, this self powered sub has the capability to power the entire system. My attention was drawn to this setup because you are getting a decent sounding sub without the hassel of hiding two amps under the rear seat with the wires and etc.

If I build a sub under the front seat, I'm not sure how good it will sound. Guess that really depends on making sure I build and enslore that has the right volume for a decent speaker and proper power.

Right now, I have a Sony XM-10020. (300 x 1 RMS) to go with my Sony XM4050 amp. (50 x 4 RMS). Then I going with a one 10" sub, JL 10W3V3-4.

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...p?series_id=24

I'm not looking for a killer system. Just one that will sound decent. The amps are brand new, never used. But they are from the late 90's. I have had them in storage for about 10 years with the intent to use them.

[RunTMCfan]

Any amp from the 90's is generally a better amp than something built today.

I did see later that it had a 4ch amp as well for the mids and highs. I'm just thinking that you wouldn't be too happy with something that looks like a computer in the back of your blazer.

An amp rack under the bench would be very simple to do. You have most of the gear. Odds are the amps you have are better than what's in that sub. Fitting a sub under the drivers seat is a toughy.

Keep your original center console but pull it out and store it away. Buy a crappy reproduction one and seel the lid. Cut out the bottom and do multiple layers of fiberglass in the center consol to seel it up and give it rigidity. Build a panel (baffle) that is down firing with at least and inch or so of space between the floor and this panel. Your consol is probably well over 1cuft.

With amps under your rear seat and a woofer in your consol you have lost nothing in style. The only function you have lost is your center console. But if looks really matter this is probably the only "stock" set up I can think of.

[Green Monster]

Cool idea... thanks. I was thinking I MIGHT be able to work a sub into the original console, but I really think I would have a rattle trap on my hands. Using an aftermarket console seems to be the better route, you just lose the original look... I can't do it. I think I'll have enough room to put the sub under the front passenger seat. I know I don't have enough room on the driver side.

I can't wait. I have new carpet and body mounts. I'm saving up for CST side panels and a sub.

[RunTMCfan]

Dude,

Make your aftermarket consol look like stock. Sub under the passenger seat is going to be too tight, as in bad.

[Green Monster]

That's what I was thinking too. Hmmm. I suppose I could just fiberglass the inside of a stock console. Or... perhaps I could make new subwoofer enclosure out of MDF and make it look like a stock console. Just reuse the lid or make one.

[BUDDY]

Originally Posted by Green Monster

That's what I was thinking too. Hmmm. I suppose I could just fiberglass the inside of a stock console. Or... perhaps I could make new subwoofer enclosure out of MDF and make it look like a stock console. Just reuse the lid or make one.

I also own a 97 TJ that's my DD while I get the K5 back on the road. I say that because of this. This guy has a super stealth stereo in his TJ & that is what I'd like to do with mine except I'd only want one of the subs under the backseat. I'd build the box the same way, but have 2/3rd's of it for tool storage.

Obviously, the exact dimensions wouldn't be the same, but I don't think the concept can be beat. I LOVE the slide-out amp under the driver's seat!! Come Awn!! What a great idea, and he didn't cheap out on the install OR the write-up. Went immediately to my favorites.

I'll eventually put in a set of split Tahoe seats in the rear of my K5 & when I do, I'll gut them, box them & use the same idea. Having the Jeep let's me try out a bunch of stuff that I can then perfect for implementation to the Blazer.

Good luck with the install, let us know how it works out.

Later,

Buddy

[BUDDY]

Originally Posted by Green Monster

That's what I was thinking too. Hmmm. I suppose I could just fiberglass the inside of a stock console. Or... perhaps I could make new subwoofer enclosure out of MDF and make it look like a stock console. Just reuse the lid or make one.

I also own a 97 TJ that's my DD while I get the K5 back on the road. I say that because of this. This guy has a super stealth stereo in his TJ & that is what I'd like to do with mine except I'd only want one of the subs under the backseat. I'd build the box the same way, but have 2/3rd's of it for tool storage.

Obviously, the exact dimensions wouldn't be the same, but I don't think the concept can be beat. I LOVE the slide-out amp under the driver's seat!! Come Awn!! What a great idea, and he didn't cheap out on the install OR the write-up. Went immediately to my favorites.

I'll eventually put in a set of split Tahoe seats in the rear of my K5 & when I do, I'll gut them, box them & use the same idea. Having the Jeep let's me try out a bunch of stuff that I can then perfect for implementation to the Blazer.

Good luck with the install, let us know how it works out.

Later,

Buddy


Sorry for 2X post

[RunTMCfan]

It does look good and I'm sure it sounds fine. But .586 cuft for three 8's. Thats really tight. W3's are great woofers. The bass probably has the "drum stick against a pillow" sound.

[BUDDY]

Originally Posted by RunTMCfan

It does look good and I'm sure it sounds fine. But .586 cuft for three 8's. Thats really tight. W3's are great woofers. The bass probably has the "drum stick against a pillow" sound.

I wouldn't care that much. I'm not much of an audiophile.

I couldn't believe that this guy got three 8" subs UNDER the seat. If you've ever seen underneath a TJ rear seat you'd know what I mean.

You also have to remember that there would be more volume under a blazer rear seat. You could also probably get a single 10" under half of the blazer seat or build the enclosure to fill up underneath the back seat. Depending on what you want, you could get the system to sounding pretty good.

That's not the point though, my thought is to adapt this install into my blazer & I'm positive that anything I put in there would be better than the 10 yr old audiovox cassette player w/ two no-name walmart 6x9 in the back.

This exact system would sound like heaven to me.

Later,

Buddy